Milwaukee Midget

[Geo]

When he stopped up yesterday, he brought me back my clutch fork for the mock-up he has been doing.  He suggested I change it out.

I was nothing short of shocked as to how much tighter this set-up is compared to what I had been running.  The fulcrum bearing on the old one was shot, the yoke was oval, and the clevis pin – well, look for yourself

Those are made from weareasyium an alloy used in all cars of your vintage. Many a linkage part have I replaced. I seem to have developed a 7th sense for noticing this type of wear without actually looking at the part. Thanks for reminding me of this... 

MM & FB, I'm here lurking and enjoying. Thanks for sharing.

I had been trying New Belgium 1554 this past week while working on the Jag. Things seemed to take longer an felt slightly off, like the gravitational field had shifted. Had to stop at the store on the way to the pig party and pick up my old standby Newcastle!

It was the year of the Lotus at the pig party. A gathering of racers, auto trade people, gearheads and special invites we hope to convert. Sports cars mostly with a few bikes.  This year an old 65cc DKW and a new 1600cc BMW. However, the Loti were awe inspiring. I do not remember ever seeing so many in one place.  An air burning Espri in black with all the creature comforts to spartain 7s in all colors.

Geo

[Milwaukee Midget]

I had been trying New Belgium 1554 this past week while working on the Jag. Things seemed to take longer an felt slightly off . . .

Geo, you're working on a Jaguar - don't be blaming the beer.

Weareasyium Alloy, eh?  A peculiar forging it makes.  You can't shape it, you can't weld it, and you can't break it, but through some Merlinesque alchemy, the only thing that will cause it to wear is inclusion as a component on a British car.

With a new pin, it looks like I'll probably pick up about 3/16 of an inch of travel at the pressure plate at full disengagement.

Yeah, it was that sloppy . . .

I aspire to a Lotus - some day . . .

[fordboy628]

THEM CHANGES.....penned by Buddy ("belt drive") Miles

I’m not familiar with the whole Gilmer drive set-up, so clue me in.  Click on the pic and it takes you to the movie

Is this too much slack?

Midget,

It's a bit more slack than I'd like & more than I had on the mockup block.  Keep in mind that very small differences (like .010"/.015") in center to center spacing of the shafts, gives you double the difference in belt slack. (.020"/.030")   This, coupled with your slack on the timing chain, convinces me your crank has been "dropped" in the block.   Undoubtedly it happened when block was line-bored/line honed.   Bottom line is: crank is now "slightly" higher in the block, creating small problems you have to deal with, such as the timing chain tensioner.........

Possible solutions:

1)  You could remove 1 of the water pump dowel pins, allowing the water pump to "pivot" on the remaining pin, to adjust the tension.  Or you could drill/ream the dowel hole in the pump oversize for clearance.   You may have to elongate the water pump mounting bolt holes (or drill them oversize) in the pump to get enough adjustment.  edit: I have found it very difficult to remove some of the rusted in dowel pins, so you have to be careful here.

CAUTION:  This would need to be done carefully as the pump does not have excessive material around the bolt/dowel holes, AND, you will need to check that moving the pump centerline like this does not bind the impellor against the water pump opening in the block, AND, you'll need to make "darn" sure the raised water pump does not interfere with the bottom of the head!!  Don't laugh, I've seen this happen, good luck keeping a head gasket intact if you have this problem!!!!

If the water pump impellor binds against the block: I have cut down the impellor diameter "slightly" (.020"/.030") to solve this.  Can be done on a lathe.   OR, you could grind a bit from the opening in the block.

2)  You could remove both of the water pump dowel pins as above.  (Or drill/ream both dowel pin holes oversize.)  I'm pretty sure the water pump mounting holes would need to be elongated/slotted for this.  Heed cautions above.

3)  You could ignore it.  It is a toothed belt, as opposed to a v-belt, so it will not slip.  I don't recommend this method.  I can take a closer look at it when I next travel the "underground railway".

Have used all 3 methods above at various times, on various engine types.  Method 3 most useful when at racetracks............

Also, please tell me that you are using flat washers under the mounting bolts for the aluminum water pump cog, and not your beloved, veddy Briddish "lock" washers.............. These 4 bolts need flat washers & safety wire.  I'll drill some allen bolts for safety wire if you can't get drilled head bolts locally.   Does the 3rd fhcs for the ignition plate need to be shortened?   Can do at Apex (machine shop).   Let me know on both.
 
Fordboy

[Milwaukee Midget]

Also, please tell me that you are using flat washers under the mounting bolts for the aluminum water pump cog, and not your beloved, veddy Briddish "lock" washers.............. These 4 bolts need flat washers & safety wire.  I'll drill some allen bolts for safety wire if you can't get drilled head bolts locally.   Does the 3rd fhcs for the ignition plate need to be shortened?   Can do at Apex (machine shop).   Let me know on both.
 
Fordboy

Yes, along with lock washers.

Still need to pick up the last bolt at work - will stop by and do that today.
Off to breakfast, and to pick up the Mopar from the shop.
I'm becoming a fan of option 3, and I agree with your assessment - which also explains the need for the tensioner on the cam chain. 

A wise move - picking up that extra belt.

[fordboy628]

Yes, along with lock washers.

Still need to pick up the last bolt at work - will stop by and do that today.
Off to breakfast, and to pick up the Mopar from the shop.
I'm becoming a fan of option 3, and I agree with your assessment - which also explains the need for the tensioner on the cam chain.  

A wise move - picking up that extra belt.

Midget,

A humble "beg your pardon" about the lock washers.   Will drill 4,  1/4 x 28tpi x .75"L allen bolts for safety wire, for use on pump pulley for my penance.   (It's an "Our Lady of Perpetual Guilt" thing.......     don't ask.)

Likelyhood of availablility for 3/8ths pitch, 225 length x 3/4" wide gilmer drive belt on the salt:    01%
As above in Wendover, Utah:                                                                                                  10%
As above in SLC, Utah:                                                                                                           50%
Peace of mind from spare w/pump belt packed with tools and other bits brought along to salt:     Priceless

I think I've mentioned before, been doing this a loooong time.

FYI:  Planning to be @ Apex (the friendly machine shop) 1/2 the day on Monday.

Will tell you about the Fox Lake, IL  wine & beer walk when I see you.  It was a good time, excellent weather.  Perhaps you & Mrs. Midget will consider it for next fall.
 
Fordboy

[Milwaukee Midget]

Will tell you about the Fox Lake, IL  wine & beer walk when I see you.  It was a good time, excellent weather.  Perhaps you & Mrs. Midget will consider it for next fall.
 
Fordboy

Illinois wine?  Chateau Du Page?  DeKalb Cellars Gran Cru? 

Put us down for two! 

 

[scrapiron aka Park Olson]

As a former H & G Prod. Spridget flogger, i am enjoying your build process,,

I have not been thru' the whole thread, but curious, what rear gear are you using?

[Milwaukee Midget]

As a former H & G Prod. Spridget flogger, i am enjoying your build process,,

I have not been thru' the whole thread, but curious, what rear gear are you using?

I've have friends running Production and Vintage Spridgets, but this one tends to confuse and confound them.

I'm running a 4:22 open dif out of an old Bugeye.  The idea being with the short stroke (2.45"), I'm looking for peak power at ~7800, which would put me at the record (121.779 mph) with 22" tires.  It's kind of a variation on the 970 Mini Cooper S/Formula 2 spec.  I'm right at 999 cc's, which is I/GT in SCTA lingo.

And I'm at a standstill on the install - I just stripped a flywheel bolt. 

Excuse me while I go to the Fastenal Website.

[fordboy628]

Midget,

Not to get sidetracked on this, but there are several good Illinois specialty wineries.  Even more micro-breweries, but you knew that already.......

If you are using stock flywheel bolts, I have a few spares you can have.  Call me on your timing for a cheddar curtain run.

In the meantime, think about what else you need that I might have.   
 
Fordboy

[Milwaukee Midget]

In order to get this engine in by the end of Sunday, I'm temporarily switching to Mountain Time.

Thanks for the pile-o-parts, Fordboy.

[Milwaukee Midget]

Dr. Who, I ain’t.  But until I get a handle on this time travel thing, or at least find a good deal on a used TARDIS, this will have to do -

[fordboy628]

Midget,

Well, at least you are 3 days ahead of waiting for replacement flywheel bolts from some source.   Sorry about the distance of the round trip.   Bet you're glad I don't live in Cleveland..........   (er, I'm glad I don't live in Cleveland.)
 
Fordboy

[38flattie]

Chris, are you going to the Ohio Mile?

Engine is coming along great!

[Milwaukee Midget]

Chris, are you going to the Ohio Mile?

Engine is coming along great!

World Finals.  You're headed east, and I'm headed West. Two ships, same quest.

Buddy, did you find tires?

[Milwaukee Midget]

So my fastenal order arrived.  I open the package, and instead of a 5/16-24 3 1/2 cap screw, I have a 1/2 x 1/2 fine cap screw.

 
 
 


They're next day airing one to me from Indy.