Getting the C/R up is going to mean a piston change, at the minimum. And with the ultra high C/R's needed for BMC's to make respectable bhp, my experience is that a o-ringed block with a Coopers head gasket or a solid copper head gasket is going to be required.
Will investigate.
Many of the cars running in vintage/historic road racing are/or have updated/backdated bodywork and bodywork mods/add ons, etc. Is this permitted by SCTA? It seems to me that many of the cars running have been "optimized" to a particular configuration. These 'Midget Coupes' exist/existed in numbers that probably match the one off bodied Abarths . . . . . . .
Dodgey on that one - most hardtops - MOST - were aftermarket, with no factory lineage. Speedwell stuff was an exception, but then the distinction becomes between MG and Austin Healey - yeah, I know, I know . . .
The '67 grill change, in my opinion, would also be beneficial. The grill bars are stamped into a piece of thin metal. You could control the amount of air entering the engine compartment by re-flattening those bars.
Did you remove the weather seal from the trunk? This will let out pent up interior air pressure.
Grill must be unaltered, but back-dating is a possibility. I'd have to re-register the car with SCTA. There is a seal on the trunk, but it has been sealed off from the rest of the interior. I do need to close up ALL body gaps.
Midget, Marcello:
You’re so close--only need about 10% more.
Some ideas in addition to what has been suggested above.
Aero
Since closing the grill and/or radiator seem to be against the rules, fit a radiator with exceedingly close fin spacing or maybe some damaged fins. Close off any other internal flow paths from behind the grille except maybe a “cold” air duct inlet for the engine airbox.
Lower the car, maybe a bit of rake, too.
Tire pressures?
Were the windows rolled up?
Power
In the dyno session I seem to recall that you just chose the better of the inlet and exhaust configurations that were at hand. Both of these may respond to refinement and tuning for the generally hotter conditions at Bonneville. What are the inlet and exhaust tract geometries at present? Do they work together?
Icewater intercooler?
Front end toe minimized.
Slow down the water pump. It’s probably cavitating at 8k anyway.
Looking at radiator . . . er . . . ah . . . "treatments" . yeah, that's a good word.
We were at 35 psi except for the last day, when we bumped it up to 50.
Windows were up.
We're using the Maniflow 6 " intake and the long center branch header, and that was a combination that gave us best HP.
I've asked about intercooling a normally aspirated engine in the tech questions before - nobody seems to have any experience with it.
1/8" toe - tracked straight and true.
It's not likely cavitating - we've slowed it down to a drive ratio of 0.5357/1 - about 30% of what a stock pulley would be spinning it.
You built a duct to put fresh air into the air filter, what about building a plenum that houses filter and via the previous duct has high pressure air from in front of radiator cram into said plenum?
Yes - that's a must-do - especially seeing as the exhaust and intake are on the same side of the engine.
Lose the bumper guards.
I'll send them to you, Stan - they'll look sharp on your roadster.
I just found KaleCoAuto. The solution for many of your problems.
Johnson Rod
$28.99
As if I'm not already tripping over myself getting in and out of this car.
Topic: Milwaukee Midget (Read 3583671 times)