Is it as simple as this?

[Glen]

Only if we let him. Keep posting and welcome to the forum CR.

[38Chevy454]

The other clarification I wanted was,  can a Hardtop be used if it is an option on the car from the factory? I have not heard a reply on that yet.

I can not believe that I am getting in on this mess of a discussion, but trying to bring it back on track, a removeable hardtop should not make a car any different of a class than without.  It is still a 2 seat roadster.  Just with a hardtop or soft top - same car.

[canadianrocky]

The other clarification I wanted was,  can a Hardtop be used if it is an option on the car from the factory? I have not heard a reply on that yet.

I can not believe that I am getting in on this mess of a discussion, but trying to bring it back on track, a removeable hardtop should not make a car any different of a class than without.  It is still a 2 seat roadster.  Just with a hardtop or soft top - same car.

Ya, that is what I am thinking and hoping. I want to put it into the equation when I buy the car. It might be easier to get a car with a hardtop  as opposed to buy a car and then trying to find a hardtop.

[sockjohn]

I would think the budget, including the purchase of the car, could be kept to about $25,000 if you did lots of the work and where careful with the purchasing.

And you could drive the car to Utah to boot.

I think you would have an easier time meeting that budget with a Mazda Miata, but not sure what the difference is between the two in terms of CdA.  Miata also has a hardtop option.

If you drive the car, you can't drive it to your hotel or to dinner, but imagine you could bum a ride.
(somebody insert a tale of tow truck engines being pulled with total disregard to how to get home!) 

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Quote from: canadianrocky on July 02, 2008, 11:23:52 PM
I would think the budget, including the purchase of the car, could be kept to about $25,000 if you did lots of the work and where careful with the purchasing.

And you could drive the car to Utah to boot.




I think you would have an easier time meeting that budget with a Mazda Miata, but not sure what the difference is between the two in terms of CdA.  Miata also has a hardtop option.

If you drive the car, you can't drive it to your hotel or to dinner, but imagine you could bum a ride.
(somebody insert a tale of tow truck engines being pulled with total disregard to how to get home!) 

When I started with the car I wanted to keep it cheap....opted for small bore MC as power.
Our original goal was 10K....we had 2 rollers donated....did 99.99% of the work myself.

I found out in a hurry that my original goal of 10K was not realistic. The new 1507cc busa motor we put in is sitting @ $20K+ not including the base motor. And next years turbo kit alone (stage III RCC) is about 10K. This is all a drop in the bucket compared to some rides. One good thing is that the money we spent was not lump sum for the most part. This means after I finish a bigger job and have some spare scratch I could buy this or that so it was not like this huge injury to my bank account all at once.

One cool thing is that if the car is built correctly and passes tech and runs well it gains some value because it is an LSR car where the same money spent on a weekend drag racer usually ends up not being able to be recouped.

I say do the S2k….it has more Fa but will also make a larger displacement motor easier (if you want to run in the bigger motor classes). Also the running gear can handle more weight and HP. One problem with the Miata is that the front end will push a good amount of air under the car. If you are in a class that allows a dam you are good to go….if not….I would consider another option. The Miata would make a great car for MS.


-JH

[canadianrocky]

I would think the budget, including the purchase of the car, could be kept to about $25,000 if you did lots of the work and where careful with the purchasing.

And you could drive the car to Utah to boot.

I think you would have an easier time meeting that budget with a Mazda Miata, but not sure what the difference is between the two in terms of CdA.  Miata also has a hardtop option.

If you drive the car, you can't drive it to your hotel or to dinner, but imagine you could bum a ride.
(somebody insert a tale of tow truck engines being pulled with total disregard to how to get home!) 

When I said you could drive the car to Utah, it was tongue in cheek. I have the tow vehicle already sorted out. I own a Commercial Truck driving school so have both a Tractor and a trailer I can use to get where I have to. I am currently in need of another trailer and I just might buy a 53 furniture van and use it for dual purposes, training and race car. It would not be hard to convince Students to drive me there and be crew, either. I just need to sort out how to make it part of the course and have them pay me to do it.

I looked at the Miata, but the S2K comes with such a strong engine and it is most of the way to 160 already. I am also considering that when I want to go 200, that I have the base engine and a well developed car to start with. ( I was considering a 89 -90 Firebird originally)

As far as a budget, I am sure the 25 g's will be light. I assume that no mater how much I budget, the project is going make me broke anyway.

[Peter Jack]

Don't budget too high because no matter the budget the true cost will likely double.

Pete

[canadianrocky]

Don't budget too high because no matter the budget the true cost will likely double.

Pete

Does that mean I will go broke twice as fast? Or I will be twice as broke in the same amount of time? Or does it grow exponentially like wind resistance, so i will be four times as broke in half the time?

[sheribuchta]

canadianrockey (do you have a name)  i build a lot of cars and bikes and you CAN make a budget and stick to it the guys that dont forget 1/2 of the parts and 1/2 the labor they will need and if they budget in all of the parts they change there minds about details during the build and do everything twice and end up building 2 cars but only end up with one and a big pile of parts---just plan what you want to do very carefully--stick to the plan--if you see something you want to change in the middle of the build then your plan wasnt that good ---if you have a long build the price of parts and labor will go up --i try to collect all of the parts and pieces before i start and during that time i come up with the PLAN  thats the time to change your mind about details it will be a lot cheaper then---STICK TO THE PLAN    good luck  willie buchta

 yes it as simple as that

[MCR]

All forms of racing look easy from a distance.

NASCAR - Go straight.  Turn Left.  Repeat 400 times.

Desert Racing - Follow the trail for 40 miles, repeat once.

Drag Racing - Push that pedal on the right.  Hard.  Then push the one on the left several seconds later.

Sled Pulling -  Push that pedal on the right.  Hard.  No need for brakes.  The sled will let you know when you're done.

Boat Racing - Push that pedal on the right until your wallet is empty.

Formula One - Follow the guy in front of you until something breaks.

 

[Nortonist 592]

You forgot motorcycles.

Twist the grip.  Go 260.  Its easy.  Just ask John Noonan.

[SPARKY]

I know of more than one MC racer that got sucked in by the factory---speedo and Tach errors

[canadianrocky]

canadianrockey (do you have a name)  i build a lot of cars and bikes and you CAN make a budget and stick to it the guys that dont forget 1/2 of the parts and 1/2 the labor they will need and if they budget in all of the parts they change there minds about details during the build and do everything twice and end up building 2 cars but only end up with one and a big pile of parts---just plan what you want to do very carefully--stick to the plan--if you see something you want to change in the middle of the build then your plan wasnt that good ---if you have a long build the price of parts and labor will go up --i try to collect all of the parts and pieces before i start and during that time i come up with the PLAN  thats the time to change your mind about details it will be a lot cheaper then---STICK TO THE PLAN    good luck  willie buchta

 yes it as simple as that

Willie,

Actually, my name is Rocky, and I am from Canada, hence the handle.

I have been thinking about doing this for a long time. It is only in the last two years that the two things have come together that I needed to make it happen, Time and Money.

I have a basic plan and it goes like this.

Year one.

1. Go to Bonneville and take as many pictures and talk to as many people as I can.

2. Decide on the car, it comes down to a Honda S2000 or a  89 to 91 Firebird. I don't want to buy one that is ready to race as I want to have the satisfaction of going fast in something I build.

3. Do all of the safety work first (roll cage etc.). This would include the tires and wheels as I see from what I have read that the car will go "straighter" on the salt with the correct tires. Also, I don't want to buy anything twice (as you recommend)

4. Go to Bonneville and race it in the 150 MPH club. Make sure the car will be legal for the class I want to run in October, make the modifications, if necessary, and race at the finals.

Year two

5. Make the performance modifications necessary to get the HP to the level necessary to be class competitive.

6. Race three times that year, developing between each race to get the car to the speed I want.

Year three

7. Make the changes necessary that winter to go back and make a shot at getting into the 200 mph club.

None of that is set in stone, but as you say if you have developed a good plan initially, not much should have to be changed.

Everything I am going to do will be pointed at making the car capable of #7 as I don't want to do a bunch of work (read: money) that will have to be redone. Yes, it is more money up front, but in the end I see it as a better plan to get to where I want.

In effect I will use sound business planning models to get through the project.

[Dynoroom]

Rocky, welcome to the site. That really is a very good plan, we all had to start somewhere. I'd choose the Firebird because it can be configured to run in Production, Gas Coupe (blown & unblown) & Altered (fuel or gas, blown or unblown). You can race a lot of years with a car like that.
Good Luck.
See ya at the salt.

[jacksoni]

Hardly production with a Honda motor in it but otherwise good to go. And considering the last post from a guy who's been 300 or so in one, good advice. ,Similar to what I'm working on, ( not the 300 part- the swap in a firebird part)