did you rev it any higher? it looks like it's taking a rest before laying down a big number at 10K 
Good hearing from you, Andy.
I've downloaded the software to read the files, but have had no success in opening any of them. Computer illiteracy in a strange domain - I'll eventually figure it out.
There were a few pulls that indicated that peak might be above where we stopped.
I doubt it would go quite to 10 without letting me know its displeasure, but between 7800 and 8000 is where we need to tune for peak. I've buzzed it up to 9000 in the past, and after it's broken in a little bit, I'll feel comfortable doing that again, but I'm a bit nervous about the valve train at this point. Been bitten by that one.
When we go back, first order of business will be checking valve lash and making sure that the valve train is staying glued together. I've also got a new oil filter I want to put on - I'm pretty sure this one has more than its fair share of assembly lube and RTV shavings in it at this point.
According to Mark, who has reviewed all the files, best torque was 71.3 @ 5400. BMEP was 176.3, but that was not on the same run with best HP.
That we need to work on, and will be largely a function of intake length. It's a double dip torque graph I recall seeing - and as soon as I figure out how to post this stuff - well, trust me, I want it out there. I recall it being flatter than I expected it to be, given the short stroke, but I don't have a lot of experience. I've got a shorty intake manifold we haven't tried, which may be promising, because when we put the short stacks on, we picked up 2 HP.
Header was a surprise - we started out with my
elcheapo Peco street header, and it outperformed the Maniflow 3-into-one. We've got a LCB we want to test, but if I had to race tomorrow, the Peco would be the choice.
We started out at 28 degrees advance, and after we got the replacement carb in place and somewhat dialed, we kept bumping the advance until we got to 36. Indications are that 36 is about right, but I can trim the center two cylinders with respect to the outside ones to maximize for the uneven intake distribution that the shared ports give us.
I recall one run where we had a dip in the curve at about 6500 - right where the knock sensor was programmed to disengage. A second run with the knock sensor deactivated showed no difference.
I think we can drop the oil pressure - it was around 90 PSI hot at 8000 RPM. We've got good flow and clearances, and after we've established we're not hurting anything, pulling that back a few will probably unleash another horse - maybe two.
These are some of the variables we are working with and have at our disposal. Each change either points to, dictates or eliminates a direction.
It's becoming the best damned education I've ever had.
Thanks to all who have contributed to the "DYNOTHON"! I'll compile a list of how that's breaking down on the corresponding thread, but I know that Jon and Nancy appreciate your generosity toward keeping this site up and running.
Topic: Milwaukee Midget (Read 3294746 times)