The only thing about peel ply is the force its going to take to pull off. With only a thin layer of glass there and the wire mesh, the force applied could deform the wire mesh. That being said I've dealt with different peel ply's that require different amounts of force to remove.
I’m wondering if you stick the first layer consolidate; remove excess resin and air bubbles let it cure to the ‘green’ stage then do the next layer. Green stage is basically partially cured, but stiffener then freshly laid. This way you can progressively add more material without using peel ply initially. The idea is to get a couple layers that can sustain the peel ply removal without damage. Maybe Mike can chime in on this idea.
On another note.
I'm concerned that you're committing your frame to the layup process. If something goes wrong it’s going to be a mess to correct. I've done a similar technique with wire mesh many years ago but after the wire work was done I covered with masking tape then lay'd up the part in a single shot, it was rigid enough to take the weight unlike your case. Instead of masking tape I would recommend aluminum duct tape. Basically you would cover the entire wire structure with the aluminum tape, and then spray PVA, and layup. The aluminum tape will give you a nice smooth surface and also add some stiffness to the wire mesh, it also has the benefit of not bonding to the glass, although I still use PVA over it so it pulls off easier.
After the part is lay’d up you’d release it from the tool. Remove the tape and wire mesh from your frame then bond the body panel to the tubular frame with 3M Scotch Weld and rivets.
Sorry if this clouds your thinking, just want provide some of my experience.