Oil filters....I have options WTF should I do?

[Jonny Hotnuts]

A machined an adapter to allow me to run a SCB remote oil filter system on my busa motor.
(I would have to pull the engine & remove the header to change the oil filter). This remote system allows me to use any SBC filter.

I want to use a billet reusable filter like Oberg or Trufilter (I would like to see the partials in the oil) but I dont know anything about them. I understand they are expensive for an oil filter.
(I am concerned they Oberg oil filter is only 60 microns)

http://www.obergfilters.com/main.html
http://www.trufilter.com/

Is there some other route I should be going?

~JH

[Dynoroom]

Johnny, a couple things people should think about when selecting and where to install oil filters.

I use screen filters on the the return side of the drysump system. The reason is I can inspect this filter after every pass. If you're going to use an inspection / screen type filter use it 'cause it will let you know before major problems most of the time. Now if it's a wet sump system we install a small screen on top of the standard oil filter to help inspect as needed.

As far as engine oil filters go I use paper type. The simple reason is, have you ever removed the oil pan from your engine and run your finger through the "silt" on the bottom? This silt is iron, steel, aluminum, etc. that collects in the bottom of the oil pan when it falls out of suspension. The rings rub on the cylinder walls, valve springs rub on dampeners & retainers, lifters transfer load to there bores.
Screen filters can't / don't filter this fine (some company's do have special synthetic matrix) silt so for the money I like paper type filters to help save my bearings, lifter contacts, piston skirts, etc.

YMMV but works for me.

[38Chevy454]

Synthetic media filters have less restriction than paper.  There was a discussion on this last year, not sure where it was on the forum here.  Based on that, I started buying the better synthetic media oil filters for my cars and trucks where available.  Look at the Fleetguard LF3538 as an example synthetic media SBC oil filter.

[jl222]

Johnny, a couple things people should think about when selecting and where to install oil filters.

I use screen filters on the the return side of the drysump system. The reason is I can inspect this filter after every pass. If you're going to use an inspection / screen type filter use it 'cause it will let you know before major problems most of the time. Now if it's a wet sump system we install a small screen on top of the standard oil filter to help inspect as needed.

As far as engine oil filters go I use paper type. The simple reason is, have you ever removed the oil pan from your engine and run your finger through the "silt" on the bottom? This silt is iron, steel, aluminum, etc. that collects in the bottom of the oil pan when it falls out of suspension. The rings rub on the cylinder walls, valve springs rub on dampeners & retainers, lifters transfer load to there bores.
Screen filters can't / don't filter this fine (some company's do have special synthetic matrix) silt so for the money I like paper type filters to help save my bearings, lifter contacts, piston skirts, etc.

YMMV but works for me.

  Michael... I've been thinking about an inline oil filter on return line especially after blowing piston at speed week  and oil, full of metal, returned to dry sump through oil pump  and then to filter.
  What size screen and oil flow do you recommend or filter Co.  #12 line and 60wt thinking going to 70wt.


                   Thanks JL222

[John Burk]

Bonded glass filters have ridiculously low micron and pressure drop . They're expensive and only available through industrial hydraulic sources and don't necessarily fit automotive filter heads . I bought one after learning about them from Rex Schimmer . My screen filter is mounted horizontally above the oil level in the tank so little oil is lost during inspection and it's on the pressure side of the suction stages before the tank . Find a place that sells Pall or Parker Hannifin filters and go there in person .

[dick elliott]

Do a search for "filters-filters-filters" Much info there.

[Dean Los Angeles]

I would never use a reusable filter. You can't possibly clean it effectively. Throw the filter out. If the cost of oil and filters is a concern then you need better sponsors.

60 microns filters birds and rocks but not much else. 3 microns is more in the range.

You have to look at the particles the filter catches as grinding compound going through your engine.

If you are finding particles, even silt in the bottom of the oil pan then your filter isn't doing anything.

If you are worried about the finer filter choking oil flow then run two filters.

[Rex Schimmer]

I have discussed filters several times and based upon my experience in the hydraulics business Dean is on the right path, something in the 3-10 micron area is the way to go and if you have a dry sump oil system it should be on the line that returns the oil to the tank. An industrial filter with a Beta Ratio of 200 is 99.995% efficient in a single pass. This level of filtration will completely prevent any junk from the engine from going into the main pressure pump. Pall filters has a 7400 and a 7600 series spin on filter line that is good to 150 psi and comes in several sizes and the mounting head is aluminum I would look at this as the very top of the line for a filter. These filters also have very low pressure drop, especially when compared to a paper filter. Other names that have equivalent filters are Parker, Schroeder,  Donaldson, Western Filter and Hycon. You should use some sort of filter that uses fiber technology as they have the best efficiency, and lowest pressure drop. Remember if the filter never plugs up then it is not filtering.

Rex

[jimmy six]

If you go with a spin on filter take the time to buy a filter cutter so you can examine it.  Good Luck

[oz]

I use a K&p filter and it seems to work really well,I agree about the real tiny bits in the sump but the engine spends most of its life being stripped and worked on rather than being raced and when its apart its cleaned.

http://www.kandpengineering.com/

Oz

[RICK]

I use a A/C oilfilter PF35L.  It has an synthetic element down around 10-12 microns, and I can get it at my local GM dealer. pn# 25013454. When I first start the motor for break-in, I put a Moroso screen on top, pn#23845.  Its a 280 micron screen, so it only catches the really big stuff.   
  I used to have an Oberg inline filter set up, but it has limited capacity to catch junk. Often it would turn on the plugged up light on in a matter of minutes. Dis-assamble and clean and redo. Just a big oily hassle.
   We do every thing in my shop. We have a 'clean room' for engine assembly, but we also fabricate steel,grind, weld, body work,paint,mold fiberglass,etc. Everything, no matter how clean you try to be ,,gets in the air,,, and then in the motor.
 Its amazing how much shop towel lint and guard dog hair that 280 micron screen will catch.


             RICK

[woz]

At SW we were in the Speed Demon pit area as they were warming up the engine - Correct me if I am wrong but I believe they were using a Baldwin spin-on filter.  I remember being a little surprised.  I'm sure if they are using one that they are probably very good (for their application of course)

Woz

[saltfever]

A micron is 40 millionths of an inch. (actually 39.37 millionths). So 60u is about .0024”. That is a smaller particle than the bearing clearance on either my mains or rods. (.0025” to .003”). Depending on length of the particle, it is theoretically possible for a 60u particle to flush right on through. So here is my quandary. Filtration size and pressure drop are inversely proportional. The smaller the size the greater the pressure drop. At least that is what thought until I read the posts from Rex and John. The struggle has always been to get the best filtration with the least pressure drop or flow. The problem is that getting down to the 10u to 20u size is too restrictive. However, synthetic media (as mentioned above) seems to be magic with high filtration values and very low pressure drop!  I am not disputing it at all. I would like to know more about this stuff.

Thanks, Rex, I did go to the Pall site and quickly looked at sizes and such. I couldn't find that series number you mentioned and probably need to spend a lot more time on research there. However, if you, or John, have a favorite part number you like, it would be a big help.

Dean, 3u (0.00012”) is finer that anything I have ever run even for a fuel filter. My fuel filter is 10u. With oil being many times more viscous than fuel I don’t see how you get any flow through a 3u oil filter at all! I’m interested and would like to know the brand or style you are running.

I know nothing about synthetic oil filter media and if anyone would like to expand on this topic it would be greatly appreciated.

PS: Thanks to everyone so far . . . a lot of good information. 

[interested bystander]

What kind of speed improvement would one see going from a 10u to a 3u filter?

Or if its an engine durability issue: How many more runs could the 3u filter guarantee over the 10u  before catestrophic damage would occur?

[wobblywalrus]

Twice a year I change the oil on the Triumph.  The oil always had that sheen of silvery suspended metal particles.  I used paper element filters.  Lately I have been using the little Mobil M1-108 synthetic fiber blend filters.  There appears to be much less metal particles in the oil based on visual observation.  The engine has not blown up and it was raced this year so enough oil flows through the filter.  This is not a scientific test, but it seems that the new synthetic fiber filters work better.