Liner wheel studs.

[tauruck]

I don't have a clue on what to get. We're machining our own Aluminium hubs and Motorworx is manufacturing a set of 18x6.5" billet wheels. I'd imagine the wheel mounting holes would be matched to the studs. I'll need to give ARP either a part number or specs on what I need. I can't say how fast the liner will run or what the exact weight will be but I'm looking for a serious case of overkill on this. As the hubs and wheels aren't done yet I'm not restricted at all. Does anyone have info on what I need?. Thanks.

[jimmy six]

Not knowing your plans but check out your local dirt track supplier. Most everthing is now 5/8" with coarse threads but they are h--l for stout. We have never broke one hitting the walls. If you are manufacturing everything "special" I would make sure the hubs have a purchase that meets the wheel with in a few .000" to center your wheel on the hub then the studs would be only for attachment.

I remember many many years ago Halibrand holes for the studs were stud size + a few .000" and a 1/4" plate went on over all the studs and a hole for the hub and the lugs were screwed on against the plate.

I continue to use a plate on my Wheel Vintiques forged 18" wheels.........Good Luck

[manta22]

If you are having your hubs machined, I'd recommend using the 5/8" wheel studs from ARP, Moroso, Speedway Motors, etc. Using 5 studs on a 5" bolt circle will allow you to use standard circle-track racing wheels. These are available in a wide variety of sizes and they are only about $70 each.

[tauruck]

Thanks, just what I needed to know on the size. 5/8" studs. I'm getting them from ARP. Jimmy the plate solution is something I'll want to utilize and I definitely wanted the wheel to center on the hub having the studs just for attachment. Motorworx is CNC machining a set of 18" billet Ally wheels for the project and Theo the owner wants to get everything just right. I want to make the hubs with a much larger contact surface than what I have here now but I think it's prudent to only get going on the machining when the studs arrive.
   Sometimes you think you have a good idea but aren't sure and then you post here and get confirmation plus a lot more. I'll sleep better tonight.

[kiwi belly tank]

Hey Mike, since you are possibly the only member of SATA at this stage, (South Africa Timing Association  ) You might want to get youself an SCTA rule book. It's an invaluable guide for you to build to even if you never bring your liner up here to run.
It didn't get this comprehensive by accident. Well, it actually kinda did but you know what I mean Mate.
  Sid.

[tauruck]

Remember what you said in one of your emails?. Geoff (Geo) is going to send me a SCTA rule book and I'll follow it as closely as possible. Thanks Geoff. Building  according to the rules might come in handy one day. Sid, thanks for all the offline help as well although we haven't even started yet!! Without the forum I'd be nowhere and bored as hell.

[tauruck]

My 5/8" studs are on the way. Can anyone tell me what the hole size on the wheel should be?. 5/8" equates to 15,875mm. I'm thinking that a 16mm hole might be a tad small but if I knew the exact answer I wouldn't be asking. The wheel will center on my 68mm hub and we'll use a steel plate over the bolt holes as suggested. Thanks.

[manta22]

My 5/8" studs are on the way. Can anyone tell me what the hole size on the wheel should be?. 5/8" equates to 15,875mm. I'm thinking that a 16mm hole might be a tad small but if I knew the exact answer I wouldn't be asking. The wheel will center on my 68mm hub and we'll use a steel plate over the bolt holes as suggested. Thanks.

The wheel studs are usually knurled and pressed in. There is no standard for the hole size-- ask the manufacturer. If absolutely necessary, take a guess based on actual measurement of the studs. It needs to be an interference fit.

[tauruck]

Thanks, We discussed the subject here and are leaving it to the wheel manufacturer. 16mm seems to be the right size for a tight fit. We'll make the hubs and install the studs, the rest is up to the wheel guy. He's investing a huge amount and I trust him with my life.

[Geo]

The base of the studs with the grooves to keep the stud from turning when tightening the nut may be very different in size than the other parts of the stud. In steel hubs the fit is tight enough a large hammer may not be enough to push them in. In aluminum it will be easier to press in. I think your 16 mm hole will be too big with your 15,875 mm (5/8) stud size. Try one in a practice piece first. Reverse the nut, add a couple of flat washers - spacers - whatever is needed to work with your thread length and tighten it down to 150 ft lbs.  See what happens.

Geo

[tauruck]

Thanks Geoff, you're 100% right. I'm not going to put the hubs in the lathe until we have the ARP  :cheers:studs. This is a critical component and patience is a must. I'll send the hubs to the wheel guy when they're done. He'll match the two.

[Freud]

tauruck.....have a look at the way the studs and nuts were done on the Treit and Davenport 'liner.

http://www.target550.com/gallery/114_wheel_hub_lug_nuts_plumbing/index.html

FREUD

[Tman]

tauruck.....have a look at the way the studs and nuts were done on the Treit and Davenport 'liner.

http://www.target550.com/gallery/114_wheel_hub_lug_nuts_plumbing/index.html

FREUD

Excellent pictorial~

[tauruck]

That's it right there. I downloaded all the images. Thanks Freud. You saved me a lot of grief.