Just a few basic parameters: I built my 496 Dart BBC to run on 30% max Nitro (unblown) using 12 1/4 to 1 Compression which is as far as I feel is safe for 30% (okay, what the hell, lets make it 35%)!
Basicly, I used a Dart Big M tall deck block with billet main caps, ARP main studs, Callies Crank, Carrillo rods ($2200 a set), . . .
Buddy, you've got 40% fewer main bearings than Bob, and you want to run Blown on Nitro?
I understand that Colorado just legalized pot, but DUDE, you don't have to advertise it . . .
SHHHHH! They're watching....... lol!
Interesting responses, er...warnings! Lol!
Out of curiosity, how many of you have actually run nitro? I mean no disrespect, I'm just curious.
Here's my biased, and probably warped view on it. I don't think the engine knows if the extra cylinder pressure comes from added boost, or nitro- cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure! I believe the only way I can achieve my goals is with added HP, and alcohol alone won't get me there.
Of course, as pointed out, the engine may not survive. I'd rather give my everything to achieve this goal, than look back at a failure, and wonder if I could have somehow been successful, if only I had....
So, please help me make this engine survive, using this volatile stuff- feed me some useful info to keep me from unnecessarily grenading the engine!
Just a few basic parameters: I built my 496 Dart BBC to run on 30% max Nitro (unblown) using 12 1/4 to 1 Compression which is as far as I feel is safe for 30% (okay, what the hell, lets make it 35%)!
Basicly, I used a Dart Big M tall deck block with billet main caps, ARP main studs, Callies Crank, Carrillo rods ($2200 a set), JE pistons, Barnes six stage Dry Sump oil pump, external JK water pump, Donavan Gear Drive, front driven Mallory Mag IV, Comp Cams Cam and Roller Lifters, Jessel shaft rockers and 7/16" pushrods on Dart Heads, using ARP head studs, Cometic Head Gaskets (MLS), and NO O-Rings head to deck. I use a Edelbrock tunnel ram with a Enderle hat and a front drive Enderle pump.
Now add up the cost of those parts and keep in mind that every four runs I get to remove the $700. pan to replace the rod bearings and now you are in the ballpark........
NOT INCLUDING THE BLOWER which you better be ready to restrip every four or so passes.
Add in a new blower belt every few runs, and don't forget that the oil in the engine (I run eight gallons) must be changed every pass because of dillution.
Now if you have the ball's to fire it up, try to remember to back the motor down first or your new blower and hat will be in your neghbors yard or living room, and you will never hear clearly again.
Oh, once it fires, you are doomed................. nothing (except maybe Beer and Sex) will ever be of interest to you except....................... NITROOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
One Run Bob (maybe 32% should be where I stop)
Bob, Interestingly enough, I run many of the same parts as you- billet main caps and girdle, ARP main studs, Crower crank, Crower rods ($2200 set), Venolia pistons, Barnes dry sump, external water pump, Donavan gear drive, front driven mag, Elgin cams cam and custom roller lifters, ARP head studs, and new Cometic head gaskets. The Elgin cam, rollers, and Cometic head gaskets are new this year. I also run a 6-71 stripped blower, with Enderle bugcatcher and front drive Hilborn pump.