WHEELS

[JackD]

Spindle mounts are fine if otherwise suited to the weight and tires.
Stay way away from real Mag because it can deteriorate from the inside out with corrosion that can only be seen with an x-ray.

[Richard Thomason]

Our rear wheels are spindle mount. 340 mph and no problems

[jimmy six]

With the mention of Wheel Vintiques; they also do forged aluminum wheels. They made me a pair of 18" x 7" with my specified off set. They are forged outers welded to forged centers. They were absolutely spot on true. The larger Dunlops fit perfectly on them.  If they made some 5" I would have a pair of them too...Good Luck

[Dynoroom]

This thread gives me a chance to ask a question about "safety beads". Most production or peformance wheels have a safety bead. The SCTA rule book does not require them but I seem to recall they were required in the past. Richard said they use reworked tractor wheels, no safety beads on a 350 mph car, not that it would matter. So is it ok to use "any" wheel on our lsr cars? I know the book is a minimum for us to guide our build but I'm looking for other input.

[russ jensen]

another wheels question- if I want a wheel of dif width I chuck up in lathe & split & either add a band in middle to widen or cut 2  halves short  & weld back together- will this pass scta??

[russ jensen]

another wheel question- since most steel wheels aren't particularly round{some oval and some egged} and some with same problem with side runout- what kind of tolerance is acceptable for a land speed wheel?? on stock car I would settle for .015  runout on diam and .025  on side{before they got hit}

[jimmy six]

Russ, I'll reply to both then get ripped.

Yes, wheels have been narrowed and widened by splitting them and re-welding. This happened frequently in the old days when there were very few wheel manufacturers.
The next one is more important . I accept .000." I work them until they are as perfect as I can. You are not driving at 55 here. Any time the tire tread leaves the ground it is bad. Everything should be as perfect as possible. I even spin rims before mounting a tire to see what if its off and by how far.  Richard is dead on. A rim fits only on one spot on the car and one spot the studs. Make them on all sets of your rims and tires.

18" implement wheels from places like www.Millertire.com do not have safety beads. That can also be welded in. (nobody said LSR was cheap). Hoppy from American used these at one time. I do not know that Taylor does. Good luck.

[russ jensen]

This thread gives me a chance to ask a question about "safety beads". Most production or peformance wheels have a safety bead. The SCTA rule book does not require them but I seem to recall they were required in the past.                              --I looked in my old rule books and no mention on saftey beads {oldest  I could find was 91} doesn't say much of anything bout steel wheel in general either. russ

[russ jensen]

The next one is more important . I accept .000." I work them until they are as perfect as I can. You are not driving at 55 here. Any time the tire tread leaves the ground it is bad. - I seem to be getting conflicting advice here- everything I build these days gets al 8 bolt hubs- {thinking that unsprung wt was important and that al wheels would also be helpful-}-was told not to waste my time & money- wasn't necessary @ bville- only way I can see to get a dead on steel wheel is to hammer & press true as possible :then skin on lathe - would take a pretty  true rim to start ,to have any thickness left when done. should I be looking for weld super singles instead?