Prepping a bike for Maxton

[55chevr]

I used the Pingel switch on both bikes ... really well made ... Pingel makes nice stuff and charges an arm and a leg for it ... it is quality though ...

[suprf1y]

If I might ask, is there anything that routinely fails tech inspection?

I'll be prepping a bike for the first time, and the rule book is on the way, but if there are any things I should take special care with, I'd like to do it.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Yes, there's one thing that happens WAY MORE than it should.  It's easy to avoid, too -- and zero cost. Really.

When you arrive for inspection -- it's finally your turn -- have your paperwork filled out completely.  That means you'll already have gone to the registration desk/table/trailer to get the inspection form that's pre-printed with your entry.  You'll have your logbook filled out both with the front page "generic" information about your and your vehicle as well as the event information, a page or more inside.  BOTH PAGES of the logbook.  You'll have finished all of the things that you know you have to have done - like safety wiring, metal battery hold down strap (for bikes) (above and beyond what the factory supplies, in many/most cases), entry number and class displayed properly on both sides of the vehicle, and your safety garb with you and immediately ready for inspection.

If you show up for inspection in my part of the line and don't have these basic things ready -- I'll simply suggest you return to your pit, complete all of them, and then get back in line and wait another few minutes to another few hours 'til it's your turn once again.  No, I won't let you go back and do them and then jump in line so you'd be next.  I'd rather have you "penalized" for showing up not ready - than having other racers have to wait a bit more because you didn't get ready.

Now -- please, don't think I'm actually selecting you for harsh treatment.  Anyone that shows up not ready -- rookie or old-timer/200 MPH Club member -- is given the same treatment.  Respect others, both racers and inspectors, by being ready for inspection.  Thanks.

Now -- somebody else care to mention specific inspection items that sometimes are not up to par and need doing?

[55chevr]

Slim is correct .... the very first box on the inspection checklist states "Logbook properly filled out" ... It holds up the line and is unfair to the next racer in line with everything filled out ...

Helmets not Snell ... just about every event someone has to go to Lumberton and buy an approved helmet ... please ensure that you have an acceptable helmet ... it is your head that is at risk ...

Metal battery retaining strap ... a simple extra long hose clamp will work for most bikes ...

[Gwillard]

I have a list started of things I need to do to the bike. It is by no means complete. Feel free to suggest additional items!
Thus far I need...
New brake lines.
Brake pads.
Pingel kill switch.
Metal battery strap.
New tires.
Safety wire anything that isn't already.
Check valve adjustment.
Replace fuel petcock. (Original is stiff and hard to turn)

[sabat]

I think you need a steering damper over 125, but I'm not sure if the bike will do it. I'd check the steering head, swingarm, and wheel bearings, clutch plates, fork oil.

I bought a 1982 GS1100G for $200 in 1994. It was doo-doo brown with an gold pinstripe. It had been sitting in an alley for 2 years. I replaced the battery, tires and rebuilt the brake calipers and rode it from Virginia to Key West without a single issue. The 3 guys I was riding with all had issues with their BMW /7 and GS bikes, although they did look much cooler. I sold the GS for $750 2 weeks later and bought a beater RZ350 with Toomey pipes.

[Gwillard]

I think you need a steering damper over 125, but I'm not sure if the bike will do it. I'd check the steering head, swingarm, and wheel bearings, clutch plates, fork oil.

I bought a 1982 GS1100G for $200 in 1994. It was doo-doo brown with an gold pinstripe. It had been sitting in an alley for 2 years. I replaced the battery, tires and rebuilt the brake calipers and rode it from Virginia to Key West without a single issue. The 3 guys I was riding with all had issues with their BMW /7 and GS bikes, although they did look much cooler. I sold the GS for $750 2 weeks later and bought a beater RZ350 with Toomey pipes.

Steering damper added to the list! Your other suggestions as well.

New brake lines.
Brake pads.
Pingel kill switch.
Metal battery strap.
New tires.
Safety wire anything that isn't already.
Check valve adjustment.
Replace fuel petcock. (Original is stiff and hard to turn)
Steering damper
Check steering head adjustment
Inspect swingarm bearings
Inspect wheel bearings
Inspect clutch
Fork seals and oil

[racer x]

Hi
A seering damper is required if the record for the bike is over 125. It dose not matter if the bike will go that fast or not. But the damper is a good idea anyay.

Don't forget metal valve stems and caps I always have extra caps if anyone needs them.

Welcome t his will be fun

[suprf1y]

Now -- please, don't think I'm actually selecting you for harsh treatment.  Anyone that shows up not ready -- rookie or old-timer/200 MPH Club member -- is given the same treatment.  Respect others, both racers and inspectors, by being ready for inspection.  Thanks.

I've been racing for a long time.
It didn't take me too long to figure that if the tech guy is happy, your race day will probably go a whole lot smoother 
Thanks for the input. I've never had a log book before, so I'll make sure to get it right.

[DanMay1776]

My 2 cents from my personal experience:

1. Proper valve stems and valve stem covers
2. If you have a fuel tank crossover line, fire proof sheathing.
3. Any glass headlight or speedometer face taped
4. Battery tied down with strap metal or something better than a hoseclamp (use a T-clamp ?)
5. A toggle, positive on/off ignition switch within reach of riders hands without removing hands from handlebars.  (This is in addition to the tether kill switch).
6. Your throttle must "snap" shut.
7. Drill and safety wire per rule book
8. Rider gear per rule book (Do not skimp, ask Debbie about going down at Maxton...)

/Daniel

FWIW : I am using the MPS kill tether, and properly positioned will do it's job.

[wobblywalrus]

Every year I remove all critical bolts and check to make sure the threads are clean.  Then I clean as needed and tighten them to desired torque with a calibrated torque wrench.

Why do I do this?

Some of the tightening force is used to overcome friction and the remainder is used to stretch the bolt when a fastener is tightened.  The tension from stretching the fastener creates the clamping force.  Excess tightening force is used to overcome friction on a corroded fastener.  There is not enough remaining tightening force to provide proper bolt tension and clamping force.

This is not in the inspector's check list.  It is one of the common sense things a person learns from experience.   

[Seldom Seen Slim]

WW, back in the late 60s my dad worked as the sales manager for Premier Industrial in Cleveland.  Premier was a manufacturer of "Supertanium" fasteners -- grade 8 nuts and bolts and so on*.  His training, passed on to me in our garage, included the fact that about 80% of the torque applied to a fastener was to overcome friction - and the remainder to stretch the thing.  Therefore, he taught me, if using a lubricant on a fastener - don't inadvertently damage it by overtightening.  With a lube you'll need far less torque to achieve the required stretching for maximum strength.

By the other way, thanks for the photos and such.  We appreciate 'em.

*  And they also supplied most of the fasteners in Gasoline Alley at Indianapolis, and therefore were the benefactors that got me into the garages during qualifying weekends for about 5 or 6 of the races during the late 60s.  Think I didn't enjoy that?  Wow -- Valhalla to a teen-aged kid!!

[ol38y]

In reference to a hose clamp for a battery hold down, that will not pass tech in SCTA. Maybe Jon or another inspector can clarify for ECTA. Have fun! 

[Seldom Seen Slim]

We USUALLY will allow a hose clamp at the bike's first visit to Maxton - and along with that allowance is usually a note in the logbook that the hose clamp should be replaced with something more substantial by the next event.  The metal retainer is a "belt-and-suspenders" thing - but as long as we have it in the rules we want it to work properly if needed.  The one-event bye is sometimes not allowed -- if the bike's battery retention devices are pretty lame as presented.  So - to be sure, make it a good one before showing up.

[DanMay1776]

In addition to strap metal, will a T-bolt clamp pass ECTA/SCTA inspection for a battery strap down ?