Author Topic: Roll Bar Material  (Read 4117 times)

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Cal

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Roll Bar Material
« on: December 22, 2005, 03:23:21 PM »
Hi guys,

I ran my car in the World of Speed back in 2003 and got in the 150 club.  Right now I'm getting the car ready to do some Open Road Racing and need a better cage.  While I'm at it, I thought I would make sure the cage is legal for the 200 mph class at Bonneville.  

Rule book doesn't come out for a few months, and I need to start on the cage now, so wondered if I could get a question aswered.

I know I need at least 0.120 mild steel 1.625 diameter, but can it be ERW or does it need to be DOM tube?

Offline Glen

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« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2005, 03:31:17 PM »
I would go with the DOM type mild steel. The rull book doesn't specify.
Glen
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Cal

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Roll Bar Material
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2005, 03:48:56 PM »
Thanks for the quick answer, Glen!  Hopefully I will see you guys out on the Salt next year!

Offline Bob Drury

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« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2005, 05:12:21 PM »
Cal, a lot of the chassis manufactuers use DOM .135 wall, so that the outside radius of any bend will not end up less than .120 .
Bob Drury

Cal

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Roll Bar Material
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2005, 05:58:21 PM »
Quote from: Bob Drury
Cal, a lot of the chassis manufactuers use DOM .135 wall, so that the outside radius of any bend will not end up less than .120 .

Thanks Bob.  Looks like .134 ERW  is what I'm going to be going with.  Seems that is legal for everything except SCCA club racing, but I can still open track the car at Larry Millers new road course.  I mostly wanted to make sure I could still run with you guys on the Salt, even though a fire system, parachute and tires are still on the laundary list.  I have a fire suit already, but seems like it is not up to 200 mph class standards.  Maybe you can verifly this: my mousely little 1/2" wheel studs GM gave me won't cut it in the 200 mph class either.  Does it help that they are ARP studs?

Offline hitz

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« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2005, 01:50:20 AM »
Quote
Maybe you can verifly this: my mousely little 1/2" wheel studs GM gave me won't cut it in the 200 mph class either. Does it help that they are ARP studs?

Cal,
  Your (5) 1/2" wheel studs with lug nuts that measure 1" across the flats should be OK if they have at least 5/8" thread engagement for the 200MPH class. Be sure and get a 2006 rule book as soon as you can.

  Good luck on your project

  Harv

dwarner

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Roll Bar Material
« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2005, 11:50:41 AM »
A 2005 rulebook will suffice on these matters as nothing has changed in this area.

Only change to be aware of is that ALL cars in competition beginning 2006 must have a full roll cage and your helmet must be a SA2000 or better spec.

DW

Cal

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Roll Bar Material
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2005, 07:19:14 PM »
Quote from: hitz
Quote
Maybe you can verifly this: my mousely little 1/2" wheel studs GM gave me won't cut it in the 200 mph class either. Does it help that they are ARP studs?

Cal,
  Your (5) 1/2" wheel studs with lug nuts that measure 1" across the flats should be OK if they have at least 5/8" thread engagement for the 200MPH class. Be sure and get a 2006 rule book as soon as you can.

  Good luck on your project

  Harv

Thanks Harv.  Didn't realize that was across the flats.  My ARP studs are extra long so all of the threads on the nut are engaged.  Looks like I still have a problem though because the factory nuts only measure 3/4 inch across the flats.

I have access to a 2005 rule book that my buddy has, so I was just going to wait until the new one came out to buy my own.

Offline Sumner

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« Reply #8 on: December 23, 2005, 11:42:01 PM »
You can get the 1" lug nuts from numerous places, such as Speedway.

c ya, Sum

Offline RICK

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« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2005, 08:52:50 AM »
Cal,  If you've been running a 3/4 lug nut, chances are that your ARP studs are still only 7/16 or 12 mm. I'd still up grade to 1/2, [bigger IS better]
My choice in tube would HAVE to be DOM. It cost a little more per foot, ,,, but don't you think you're worth it.
Or, with a F-body car, you might be better off buying a pre-bent kit, that is most likely DOM to start with.
Either way, if you are installing your self, you might want to look at Harbor Freight for thier 'hole saw'- 'Old Joint Jigger' type tubing knotcher.It sure beats the die grinder and cutoff wheel program, and a bit cheaper than the Mittler Bros. end mill type.
Nobody ever PLANS to crash,,,,,,,but the difference in the little things can mean the difference between a wild ride with some twisted photos to show your grand kids and a closed casket with your buddys mumbling "what was he thinking."

Any how----  A MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL

    Rick
It's not over, it's just harder.