XXO/BVGC '38 Chevy Coupe Build

[jimmy six]

38F...Take a little of your time and read about Joe Gibbs Racing Oils. Both engine and trans/rear gear oils. After I thought I was prepared to ask some questions I called their tech guy and we arrived at some interesting conclusions. They list LSR on their web info which I was very supprised. They reccommend eveything on clearances.....very intersting. Remember we "normally" do not run our oils at the temperature they are most proficent.........Continue to think outside the box.....Good Luck..JD

[Tman]

Buddy, Dale. Do look at teh Joe Gibbs stuff. They are HAMB Alliance vendors so you can get that discount if you are a memeber there.

[38flattie]

Thanks JD!

I took your advice, and called Scott at Joe Gibbs Driven-great guy, and very helpful! He suggested the BR (15W-50) break in oil for the dyno, and their gear lube for the tranny and rear end. He said the gear lube is about the same viscosity as a 50w oil, but with better cooling and protection properties than oil, in those applications.

Scott asked that I call him back after we run on the dyno. He said he felt the XP-3 (10W-30)  oil would be the right choice, but wants to know what our oil temps reach. If we have a higher oil temp, then he said the new XP-9 (10W-40) oil they are introducing would be the choice.

[38flattie]

Ok, I ve been thinking about this since I was working on the original, B&M blown Medusa engine.

Today, I took a sawzall, and cut a block up to see if it would work. It seems to me, if I can get rid of the first 90 deg bend going into the intake, and the last 90 deg bend coming out of the exhaust, I could get better flow.

My plan is to fill the top 2.5" of the block with Hard Blok, then mill the 90's off. A plate will be welded in to attach the intake and exhaust, and to help direct flow. A heavy port job should allow the huffer to move some air to the cylinders.

The heads will still be able to flow water, as will the block. The only area not getting direct water cooling will be the top 2.5" of the cylinders.

This SEEMS like a good idea to me. What do you guys think? If you don't think it will work, please be specific.

...and if it will work, is the effort worth the gain?

 
No, this is not for the engine we are assembling now! It's an idea for an upgraded, roller cam, fuel version.

[38flattie]

Forgot the exhaust port!

[Milwaukee Midget]

A SAWZALL!?!?!?   

That HAD to be arduous.

I wish I knew more about this Hard Blok stuff - I'll be on Google for the next couple of hours - getting edumacated, thankyouverymuch . . .

[RichFox]

Seems like it would work. I think "Hard block" is the same stuff (Concrete) they put on the base of milling machines to keep them steady.

[saltracer1]

Hoping to do something similar with a good old flathead Ford block and reroute exhaust too. this cross section shows the original intake ports and a new small exhaust port drilled with hole saw. Phil

[Dr Goggles]

I read up a little on Hardblok and it says it is not possible to remove it..... I reckon three beers and the taco that I had at the Motel 29 Palms on "Free Taco Night" could get it out, trust me.

On a more serious note, you blokes are up for anything yeah?.... Buddy, finish that flatcad before you confuse us with more exotica, I'm kind of boggled by the whole build already.....at what point does the balance sheet tip on developing that lump? 

No, you don't have to even start explaining.......

[38flattie]

I read up a little on Hardblok and it says it is not possible to remove it..... I reckon three beers and the taco that I had at the Motel 29 Palms on "Free Taco Night" could get it out, trust me.

On a more serious note, you blokes are up for anything yeah?.... Buddy, finish that flatcad before you confuse us with more exotica, I'm kind of boggled by the whole build already.....at what point does the balance sheet tip on developing that lump? 

No, you don't have to even start explaining.......

Haha! The Flatcad is in the final assembly stages, being readied for the dyno!

There are a couple of reasons I'm toying with this idea for the second engine:

1) More Power! Better airflow, more efficient roller cam, bigger bore (sleeves) and shorter stroke, for a more powerful, higher revving engine.

2) Procharger style supercharger- less parasitic drag, lower profile, more ponies!

Why do I want this, when I plan on eventually putting the Jimmy engine in the car for a few runs?

It's simple- I want to get as much HP out of this old flathead that I can. On top of that, the current Flatcad was built with a 'traditional' look in mind. Unfortunately, that 'traditional' look will make it virtually impossible to fit the mill in a lakester or liner. A more powerful mill, with a low profile, could be installed.

...and I would really like to see one of my Flatcads run in a lakester or liner!

[Buickguy3]

   Buddy,
  I think you mentioned earlier in the build, but who builds a billet for the camshaft? We are still looking for a source for the straight 8 cams.
  Doug 

[38flattie]

Doug, PM sent.

Joe Panek at Roto-Faze will make you a cam blank. His number is 310-325-8844

[Tman]

I read up a little on Hardblok and it says it is not possible to remove it..... I reckon three beers and the taco that I had at the Motel 29 Palms on "Free Taco Night" could get it out, trust me.

On a more serious note, you blokes are up for anything yeah?.... Buddy, finish that flatcad before you confuse us with more exotica, I'm kind of boggled by the whole build already.....at what point does the balance sheet tip on developing that lump? 

No, you don't have to even start explaining.......

Haha! The Flatcad is in the final assembly stages, being readied for the dyno!

There are a couple of reasons I'm toying with this idea for the second engine:

1) More Power! Better airflow, more efficient roller cam, bigger bore (sleeves) and shorter stroke, for a more powerful, higher revving engine.

2) Procharger style supercharger- less parasitic drag, lower profile, more ponies!

Why do I want this, when I plan on eventually putting the Jimmy engine in the car for a few runs?

It's simple- I want to get as much HP out of this old flathead that I can. On top of that, the current Flatcad was built with a 'traditional' look in mind. Unfortunately, that 'traditional' look will make it virtually impossible to fit the mill in a lakester or liner. A more powerful mill, with a low profile, could be installed.

...and I would really like to see one of my Flatcads run in a lakester or liner!

Lakester you say?

[38flattie]

Hoping to do something similar with a good old flathead Ford block and reroute exhaust too. this cross section shows the original intake ports and a new small exhaust port drilled with hole saw. Phil

That will be a cool conversion, kind of like Jimmy Sevens'. You might contact him, and see if he'll give you some pointers!

The thread of yours where you talked about the Hard Block, is where I got the idea to incorporate it into this block.

[desotoman]

There are a couple of reasons I'm toying with this idea for the second engine.

I want to get as much HP out of this old flathead that I can.

Buddy,

You might be closer to you Max HP than you think. These old blocks will only take so much HP then they break. Years ago I talked in length with a very knowledgeable vintage engine builder. He told me his motors would only hold XXX amount of HP. It did not matter if it was blown gas, injected fuel, or blown fuel the number was the same on the dyno before they broke the block.

Just passing on some information that applies to all vintage motors. These motors are not cheap to build as you know, and I would hate to see you spend a fortune on a motor to just end up with a piece of garage art.

Money might be better spent on the car in a wind tunnel, than flogging the old iron.  JMO.

Tom G.