Any experienced TIG alu-welders out there ?

[octane]

Hi Whizz; thanks !

A couple more things to point out. From the sheen on the surface and the light scratch patterns that I can see where you've wire brushed, it looks like the extrusions that you're practicing on may be anodized.If they are you need to do some heavier cleaning to get rid of it before welding. Anodizing is a controlled corrosion process that creates a uniform layer of hard aluminum oxide. The melting temp of the oxide layer (even if it's not anodized, all aluminum has an oxide layer) is MUCH higher than the base layer. If the oxide layer is not completely removed you will have a very hard time welding because the metal under the layer melts before the top skin does, then when the oxide layer lets go you get an instant hole as the molten metal flows out. I recommend sanding it off with a Scotch-Brite pad

Got'ya:

Grind a point on that electrode and give it a try. Angle of the point about like a freshly sharpened pencil, flat tip about 1/3 the total diameter or less, but not a real sharp tip...

Got'ya:





Is this deterioration of the tip after a few minutes use normal? ( Mind you: this tip was flat-tip'ped at the outset)






HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEY; not bad ...erh :

[WhizzbangK.C.]

That looks pretty good      

Now cut it and polish the cut. Look at the weld area and see how much penetration you are getting. You are looking for a continuous cross section of solid metal at least as thick as the base material that you are welding.

Do another one and cut it at both ends of the weld. Make a weldment about 2 inches wide. Put it in a vise and whack it with a hammer. Pay attention to how strong it is and where it breaks. It should break next to the weld or not at all. After bending the heck out of it or breaking it, saw it and polish again and look closely.

These tests will give you an idea of what's going on inside the weld and some ideas to improve your process.

Yes, with the thoriated electrodes there will be some deterioration of the tip after welding a while, it seems to be less with the tip sharpened though. Keep your CLEAN AREA WIDTH control set in the middle and it will also be minimized, as well as keeping the material very clean. I think a lot of it is buildup of impurities driven out by the EN phase of the sine wave.

Now practice, evaluate, practice, practice, evaluate, practice, repeat. It will keep getting better and better. Keep us updated.    

[Peter Jack]

What's the black at the start of the weld? I hope you're not touching the electrode to the work to start. If you touch the nozzle to the work and then roll the electrode toward the work it should start easily without a touch. A ceriated or lanthiated tungsten will probably work better than the thoriated as they're designed for those types of machines and use a different method of construction in the electrode. It won't deteriorate so badly.

It looks to me like you have the motion and angle down pretty well but you're still moving a little quickly. Don't be afraid to sit on the puddle a little longer so the puddle extends right into the root of the joint. This probably doesn't mean more heat, just leaving the existing heat on a little longer. Sometimes a little back and forth motion with the torch helps.

Pete

[Gwillard]

Sooner or later you'll start to get bored with just running beads. When that happens, and before you weld anything important, set your argon flow to about double what you are running now. Have a buddy slowly reduce the flow rate while you are welding until you notice it not welding worth a crap. This will give you a good idea of what happens when your sheilding is insufficient from either too drafty an area, running out of gas, etc. Then do the same thing but start at your normal flow rate and have your buddy turn it up while you weld. You'll find that there is a range of flow rates that work best and how to tell when it is too high or too low. You'll learn these eventually, might as well learn it now and in a controlled environment.
These guys are giving you some good advice. I think they've run a bead or two before.

[LSR Mike]

George is being shy, he's about to get, or now has, his Masters in Welding Engineering from The Ohio State University. And I think he's laid down a bead or two, Sporting some of his work in my truck.

[Gwillard]

George is being shy, he's about to get, or now has, his Masters in Welding Engineering from The Ohio State University. And I think he's laid down a bead or two, Sporting some of his work in my truck.

Thanks, Mike. I am actually getting my Bachelors degree this Sunday. Took my last final today. 
Are you making the trek to Maxton?

[Glen]

Geo, congrats 

[Gwillard]

Geo, congrats 

Thanks. 

One of the best things that happened during the last few years was getting involved in the Buckeye Bullet and meeting such a great bunch of racers on "The Salt".

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Dang, George -- I thought that a five-year student at Michigan Tech was taking a while to get through.  Let's see -- the avatar says you're 47 -- and assuming you started in college at 18 or so, that leaves, umm, nnhh, 29 years to get the bachelor's degree.  I betcha there must be a good story in there somewhere.

Heart congratulations.  Now that you're graduating -- you'll have to start looking for a job.  Maybe a Master's isn't such a bad idea after all.

[Gwillard]

Dang, George -- I thought that a five-year student at Michigan Tech was taking a while to get through.  Let's see -- the avatar says you're 47 -- and assuming you started in college at 18 or so, that leaves, umm, nnhh, 29 years to get the bachelor's degree.  I betcha there must be a good story in there somewhere.

Heart congratulations.  Now that you're graduating -- you'll have to start looking for a job.  Maybe a Master's isn't such a bad idea after all.

Thanks Jon.
I started taking classes seven years ago, when i was 40. I am very happy- and proud - to say that I have accepted a position with Lincoln Electric in Cleveland, starting out in their engineer development program. After about a year I hope to be placed in the applications engineering department.

[landsendlynda]

Isn't your new position going to conflict with your salt addiction?      Congratulations George!!

Lynda

[Gwillard]

Yeah, for the first year. 
The upside is that I'll have an income and be able to start building! 

[LSR Mike]

Bachelor's, Masters, what's a couple years ... Congratulations!   and yes, going to Maxton. Got a dyno session set up for next Wed. going to see if the drivetrain will hold up finally, tore up the clutch and transmission last year. Been an expensive winter.

I'll quit threadjacking now... gotta new welder to coach in here somewhere

[octane]

Thanks George again for all of your brilliant advise
and congratulations on your Bachelors degree!!!
I'm sure it's well deserved!

That looks pretty good     

Now cut it and polish the cut. Look at the weld area and see how much penetration you are getting. You are looking for a continuous cross section of solid metal at least as thick as the base material that you are welding.

Do another one and cut it at both ends of the weld. Make a weldment about 2 inches wide. Put it in a vise and whack it with a hammer. Pay attention to how strong it is and where it breaks. It should break next to the weld or not at all. After bending the heck out of it or breaking it, saw it and polish again and look closely.

These tests will give you an idea of what's going on inside the weld and some ideas to improve your process.

Yes, with the thoriated electrodes there will be some deterioration of the tip after welding a while, it seems to be less with the tip sharpened though. Keep your CLEAN AREA WIDTH control set in the middle and it will also be minimized, as well as keeping the material very clean. I think a lot of it is buildup of impurities driven out by the EN phase of the sine wave.

Now practice, evaluate, practice, practice, evaluate, practice, repeat. ..

Thanks Wizz!. I will practice, evaluate, practice, practice, evaluate, practice, repeat
I will practice, evaluate, practice, practice, evaluate, practice, repeat
I will practice, evaluate, practice, practice, evaluate, practice, repeat

.-)

What's the black at the start of the weld? I hope you're not touching the electrode to the work to start.

Ooops: donno......if I did it was by mistake.

If you touch the nozzle to the work and then roll the electrode toward the work it should start easily without a touch. A ceriated or lanthiated tungsten will probably work better than the thoriated as they're designed for those types of machines and use a different method of construction in the electrode. It won't deteriorate so badly.

It looks to me like you have the motion and angle down pretty well but you're still moving a little quickly. Don't be afraid to sit on the puddle a little longer so the puddle extends right into the root of the joint. This probably doesn't mean more heat, just leaving the existing heat on a little longer. Sometimes a little back and forth motion with the torch helps.

Pete

Thanks for your advise  Pete!

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Hmm, is Lincoln Electric the company that makes Lincoln welders?  Lincoln used to sponsor the USFRA event (I've got t-shirts to prove it), and maybe with your experience on the Salt and their past connection -- maybe they'll send you out there to represent them.  As I remember, Lincoln went to the event and would weld for competitors when something needed doing.  It was great having that resource there.  It's be greater still to have you there for them (and to get your Salt fix, too).