Any experienced TIG alu-welders out there ?

[WhizzbangK.C.]

TIG welding is great and has its place for fabrication. However for a lot of aluminum fabrication and repairs I just use the aluminum brazing/soldering rods like Muggyweld and others sell. No need to haul out my TIG welder and waste gas and electricity. All it takes is a MAPP torch or Oxyacetelyne torch. And there is not too much danger of ruining the original part, either. Just recently I repaired a broken cast Al motorcycle footpeg. There was no way I would even attempt to TIG it, but it soldered up real well and I could jump on it and it did not break.

Don

That stuff definitely has it's place for the odd emergency fix and it works great on pot metal. I wouldn't recommend it for fabrication or any kind of permanent structural fix though. Recently a friend brought over a primary cover to see if I could do a better repair on a previous fix that had cracked out again. It had been repaired with that solder stuff a couple of years ago but over time gave up right at the original crack. I ended up having to grind out a LOT of metal to get rid of it before it would take weld. Every time I thought I had it clean enough more would show up and ruin the weld as soon as I started. I flows out real good when you put it on and gets everywhere in the metal, it just doesn't stand up to vibration and stress like a real weld. 

[SPARKY]

Wow---how great is this ---post from 2 continents, 3 countries, and untold US states  just trying to help an unknown LSR buddy out!!!!!!!!!!!!

[landsendlynda]

Wow---how great is this ---post from 2 continents, 3 countries, and untold US states  just trying to help an unknown LSR buddy out!!!!!!!!!!!!

And THAT is the heart and soul of LSR!!   I love my racers!!!   

Lynda

[Gwillard]

The Arc Force knob is used mainly when stick welding to increase the current (amperage) when the voltage drops below a certain level, somewhere around 20 volts, to help prevent the electrode form sticking to the work. It goes back to the principle that arc length and voltage are directly related. The longer the arc length, the higher the voltage needed to overcome the arc gap. In some instances a welder using a stick needs to "push" the rod into the joint to lay a root pass, which drops the arc length and the voltage. If the voltage drops too low the arc can be extingushed and the rod will stick, resulting in lots of profanity and spilled beer...all bad. So to prevent sticking electrodes, and spilled beer, an Arc Force adjustment was added to give the operator a way to make those highly confined welds a bit easier. I've never had much use for it myself (arc force knob, that is. I always have use for beer) but I know at least one fella who loves it. But he welds mostly pipe in often very confined areas.
I agree that you can use the 2% thoriated on aluminum. I've done that myself without adverse effects. The only downside i can think of is it seemed to not stay balled as well, especially when the tungsten diameter is used at the upper end of it's current range. If the ball tends to split, toss in a greeny and give it a try. BTW, thoriated tungsten will carry 15-20% more current than a pure tungsten of the same diameter.
The others are right in trying to reduce the amount of consumables. It can get crazy. The normal range of tungsten I keep on hand is 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8. To keep all three sizes in two compositions would be to dang expensive.

[octane]

Wow---how great is this ---post from 2 continents, 3 countries, and untold US states  just trying to help an unknown LSR buddy out!!!!!!!!!!!!

..and this here (yet to become-) LSR buddy
is immensely grateful

And THAT is the heart and soul of LSR!!

!!!!

[octane]

.....

OK, a clarification of a couple of things...................................

You mean; a LOT of things.
Fantastic !
...I'll go through it all later today when I've picked up a new bottle og argon,
and have time to run some welding tests.

Thanks Whizz !

BTW ; guess we must have ran into one an-others frame of vision
at BUB back in 2008.
I took some pictures of your bike ( and you, I guess) :



350 Triumph engine..right ?

Hope to see you there this year.

The Arc Force knob is used mainly when stick welding .......

OK thanks. I'll probably be back with more questions on stick welding
when I get around to trying that feature.


I mentioned above, this place with which I cooperate,
that do "big" alu-stuff.
Right now they a building a 12 meter ( close to 40 feet) -diameter "globe"
made of circles that together form a 'grid'-globe.
Inside this sits a smaller 'globe', and inside that sits a stage
for sword fighting. It's for an outdoor theater play




They have a real nice selection of materials, from which they let me pick what I need. ( This is just part of it)
Nice!

[Gwillard]

Looks like just about the right amount of floor space for a 'liner project. 

[octane]

LOL, yeah but I'm afraid the only thing on wheels they've build
is this cargo-carrying-electric-engined-scooter-or-something prototype.
Might interest you as I see you are part of a team running an electric engined vehicle.

Basically they chopped a cheapo Chinese electric engined scooter for parts:
engine, batteries, controller etc.
Build a new frame and had the bodywork made up by 3-D printing in plastics ( aMAzing technique , by the way )
( ABS-plastic, I think it was )

It actually ran, but not at record breaking speed, that's for sure:







...then again; has anyone ever set a record on such a thing ?!

.-)


OK OK OK ....I'll go back to practicing NOW! Got the argon. Ordered a pedal-control thingy.
From what you tell me here it sound like a good thing to have.

[floydjer]

Jon, Let me know how that dis-silmilar metals in the Michigan salt spray thingie works out for you :evil:Jerry

[octane]

Ooops. Double-posting

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Jerry, I don't run the discs in the winter months, so there's not that much salt getting on them up here.  There's plenty of it when we're in Wendover, though.  I understand there's likely to be a hassle -- so do what I can in advance, then clean things now and then.  What else to do?

[Black Rose Racing]

A guy could have some serious fun in that shop.

[WhizzbangK.C.]

.....

OK, a clarification of a couple of things...................................

You mean; a LOT of things.
Fantastic !
...I'll go through it all later today when I've picked up a new bottle og argon,
and have time to run some welding tests.

Thanks Whizz !

BTW ; guess we must have ran into one an-others frame of vision
at BUB back in 2008.
I took some pictures of your bike ( and you, I guess) :



350 Triumph engine..right ?

Hope to see you there this year.



Yep, that's me in the panda suit. 
The engine is a T250 Woodsman, it's really just a rebadged BSA B25. We've got oversized valves and big cam, Carillo rod, high compression piston, modified case breathing, and poorly selected carb. This year I'm working to get the carburation issue resolved so it will run right, as well as doing some work to the oiling system to get better lubrication to the cylinder walls. I've had repeated problems wiping out pistons due to a combination of too little lube and running lean. Hopefully I'll get it sorted for this year.

I'm also building a complete new chassis to try something a little different aerodynamically. Last year I bumped my record by over 20MPH, to right at 75, running in 3rd gear since I couldn't get it to pull in 4th due to intake reversion and jetting problems. I'm working on all those issued right now, as well as thinking up a way to put electric start on it since the new frame and fairing is going to make kick starting a real problem.

I'll see ya on the salt, look us up at the Speed Team Doo compound if I don't find you first. 

[octane]

Spend a couple of hours last night practicing.
Got to a point where I can ( well; sort of can ) weld two pieces together
as long as they are next to each other



..while welding into a 'corner' like this , almost every time ends in grief ; lumps of alu that won't 'stick'
and burning holes.
Sometimes I get something slightly resembling a weld



One of the welders advised me that when welding such a weld
I should bring the electrode out further and turn up the gas slightly.
Comments ?

Any rules of thump on far out to take the electrode for different kinds of welding ?

it's really just a rebadged BSA B25.

Ahh; a Beeza!
I still have my first bike, a BSA ( actually a TriBSA . Triumph Speed Twin engine in a BSA A10 frame)
that I bought 32 years ago.
Here's my second BSA , still in the process of a second rebuild. Been on the back-burner
for a while as the INDIAN got in the way

...Yep, that's me in the panda suit.....I'll see ya on the salt, look us up at the Speed Team Doo compound

Will certainly do !!! If I can't find you, I'll just ask for the panda

.-)
See ya' !

[WhizzbangK.C.]

Spend a couple of hours last night practicing.
Got to a point where I can ( well; sort of can ) weld two pieces together
as long as they are next to each other



..while welding into a 'corner' like this , almost every time ends in grief ; lumps of alu that won't 'stick'
and burning holes.
Sometimes I get something slightly resembling a weld



One of the welders advised me that when welding such a weld
I should bring the electrode out further and turn up the gas slightly.
Comments ?

Any rules of thump on far out to take the electrode for different kinds of welding ?

it's really just a rebadged BSA B25.

Ahh; a Beeza!
I still have my first bike, a BSA ( actually a TriBSA . Triumph Speed Twin engine in a BSA A10 frame)
that I bought 32 years ago.
Here's my second BSA , still in the process of a second rebuild. Been on the back-burner
for a while as the INDIAN got in the way

...Yep, that's me in the panda suit.....I'll see ya on the salt, look us up at the Speed Team Doo compound

Will certainly do !!! If I can't find you, I'll just ask for the panda

.-)
See ya' !

Looking forward to seeing you there! I'll be sure we have something cold in the "esky" as the Ausies say.

Your welds are looking better, and will continue to improve with practice. I can see by the horse shoe shape at the ends and the pattern of the bead that you've figured out to add filler when the sides of the joint start to melt back, so that's good progress.

A couple more things to point out. From the sheen on the surface and the light scratch patterns that I can see where you've wire brushed, it looks like the extrusions that you're practicing on may be anodized. If they are you need to do some heavier cleaning to get rid of it before welding. Anodizing is a controlled corrosion process that creates a uniform layer of hard aluminum oxide. The melting temp of the oxide layer (even if it's not anodized, all aluminum has an oxide layer) is MUCH higher than the base layer. If the oxide layer is not completely removed you will have a very hard time welding because the metal under the layer melts before the top skin does, then when the oxide layer lets go you get an instant hole as the molten metal flows out. I recommend sanding it off with a Scotch-Brite pad before wire brushing and cleaning with acetone if you have a very heavy oxide or anodized surface. The only time I'll use just a wire brush is if I've already cleaned it up that day. If it's set a day or two I'll start over at sanding again. Don't get too carried away sanding, you're only trying to take the top .0005 or so off to get below the oxide to bare metal.

On the electrode protrusion, talk to your local welding supply folks about a "gas lens". It's a different setup for the the torch that has a wire screen diffuser and differently shaped cup to control the gas flow and create a more stable bubble of shielding gas. This will let you extend the electrode farther and still keep it shielded. When I'm doing a fillet weld I have my electrode sticking out quite a ways. I set it up by laying the edges of the cup on both sides of the joint and putting the tip of the electrode about half way between the mouth of the cup and the vertex of the joint. You'll have to be careful with the filler rod, I guarantee you will contaminate your electrode a lot of times before you get to the point that you can weld for a while without having to regrind it.

Grind a point on that electrode and give it a try. Angle of the point about like a freshly sharpened pencil, flat tip about 1/3 the total diameter or less, but not a real sharp tip. Play around with it a little using different tip diameters to see what they do and how they work for you. The pointed tip will make the arc much more controllable, and if you're getting a little too much heat to one side of the joint, you can move the arc to the other side just by changing the angle of you hand a little. I've tried to weld with a straight flat tip like you're showing there, and the arc jumping around makes it hard to get an even bead for me.