Skip’s “Thing” – Blown Fuel Roadster

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Skip, whats in that fridge?

 

~JH

[interested bystander]

 Who else but Hotnuts would've asked that last question!!

[Glen]

Maybe wes

[Jonny Hotnuts]

OK, Ill admit it, I asked but now that the question is out there dont anyone say you wouldnt pull the handle if you were alone in that shop.

LOL

~JH

[Jonny Hotnuts]

AND....


I see ball bearings on that spindle.
Looks like someone knows a thing or two.

[Dr Goggles]

I smell a rat......

7.5 inch , high pressure cooling circuit.....

Build looks great Skip , you have clever friends

[Skip Pipes]

Gotzy - It’s a early 90’s NOS Chevy S-10 Pick Up housing that’s been offset 6 inches with large diameter axle tubes and big bearing Ford ends. As for the diff, it’s a 1992 Torsen Limited Slip from a Camaro.
 
SPARKY – CRS, yea, I claim CRS when the Debbie asks me how much I spent on THIS car!
 
Rex – Thanks for the axle tip. I plan on running El Mirage numerous times to make sure this truck go straight before adventuring to Bonneville. With finances the way they are right now I’ll be lucky to make tech at El Mirage this year.

JH – Oh it’s full of my own personal rocket fuel  http://www.stonebrew.com/  and the vintage rhymes with Oaked ABA
 
Dr Goggles – Yep, fairly clever friends in Arizona. Or as I’m fond of saying “experience often triumphs over enthusiasm.”   

[jimmy six]

You can ask Skip; but I won't tell, but you all MAY be surprised what could be in the engine bay near the finish....I get to stop over and see it in person (including his other toys in the backyard). He seems to be having too much fun...............JD 

[dw230]

Oh my - look at Skip's website.

Finish that thing up and bring it to impound. You have the admission ticket, almost.

DW

[Skip Pipes]

Hmm, I could see where there might be some confusion here. What I meant to say is; what’s behind the door of the fridge is my favorite brand of Rocket Fuel. The site is not mine, however I significantly contribute to its upkeep. And if I ever get there, I’ll bring several admission passes to impound.

Skip

[Skip Pipes]

My recent pics have generated several excellent PM’s that have averted potential problems. Many thanks Stan.

So I thought I’d post some pics of the cooling system while it’s under construction. That way if somebody notices something requiring attention I can address it before I close it and have to cut it back open.
 
What I’m after is a high pressure, closed, water to water cooling system. It’s been done before by SPARKY, Dynoroom and I’m sure others. My system is more like Dynoroom’s and after studying his car at El Mirage I think I can do the same. So what I’m doing is submerging a rather large AFCO double pass radiator in a closed water tank. I’m thinking I can get enough cooling by using the water volume in the tank to cool the submerged radiator my max HP target of 850 hp (It will be some time before I get that much HP). I’ve got lots of options at this stage of the design and one thought is to put a water nozzle spray bar in the tank to spray water at the upper vertical face of the radiator. Or I could just keep it simple and run passive water around the radiator.

I’m going to place the tank right behind the firewall, along side the right side frame rail. The intercooler tank is in line behind the engine-cooling tank.

Skip Pipes

[Skip Pipes]

Also, a teaser for JH of what's in the fridge.

[Rex Schimmer]

Skip,
I am a big believer in the type of cooling system that you are building as it does not require the water tank to be a pressure vessel. One thing about water to water heat transfer is that it is much more efficient than air to water and because of this the actual radiator size can be much smaller which would give you more water volume in your tank. The real point gets down to how much water you have in your tank, what is its starting temperature and how much heat are you going to transfer into the water in a single run. From this you can calculate what the water temp will be at the end of the run. If it is over 212 deg F (at sea level, lower at altitude) then your tank needs to be bigger or the water colder. This is one of the reasons to use ice in the tank as ice has a requirement for additional energy when it converts from solid to liquid (energy of transformation) so you actually can have a somewhat smaller water tank. I would also recommend that you use a thermostat as the high differential temperature between the water/ice in the tank and the water in the engine/radiator will never allow the engine to warm up and when it finally gets to operating temp the water in the tank will also be at that temp and now you don't have any differential temp reserve for making the run. I would also suggest using the BMW 320 three way thermostat as it is set up to recirculate the water in the engine at full pump flow ( a normal thermostat simply prevents any water flow through the engine until it opens) and then it modulates the water flow to the radiator to maintain its set temperature. Much better set up and they are cheap, around $20.

I would suggest some sort of recirculation pump in the tank to keep the tank water moving through and around the radiator matrix along with some sort of baffling that encourages the tank water to flow through the radiator and at a pretty good rate. Don't forget to use a big water pump on your engine, over 60 gpm if possible, velocity through the radiator core is what you are looking for the more the better.

Love your build and am really looking forward to seeing you at Elmo or B'ville.

Rex

[Tman]

Skip, what are the potential problems you averted? Some of us can learn from those comments.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Skip....I KNEW something awesome was in that fridge.....call it a hunch.

One question.....

Is anyone putting a pump inside the enclosed water tank to circulate the water and prevent hot water stagnation in the core?

Just wondering...just seems like it should.

~JH