D/STR Roadster...fuel, brake, wiring routing questions...

[slepe67]

Hey, I figured I'd wait a week or so after speedweek to ask this.  Let everyone cool their heels.   To all who went out there, congrats.  I was set to go, but my job canxed that plan, couldn't make it.  Anywho...

My chassis is rolling, and now it's time to route my brake & fuel lines, and my wiring harness.  I am running a  400 HP carbureted 302, with a 4 speed toploader.  Tanks Inc fuel tank, electric fuel pump, large canister type fuel filter, and Holley Fuel Pressure Regulator. Steel braided hose, with fittings. 

And, just in case: Weiand Stealth Intake, 650 cfm Edelbrock carb (for now), lakes headers (for now), boxed deuce frame, 'glass '32 CHEAPO body ( no floor-I'm using thick aluminum), 8.8 rear end (31 spline axles, 4.10 gears with "posi"), 4 wheel discs, transeverse rear spring, shocks all around.

I PLAN to run the trunk mounted battery cable to the starter via the inboard passenger side frame rail, parallel to the fuel lines.  Fuel system goes tank to pump to filter to regulator.  I'll start with that, upgrade/change as required.

On the inboard drivers side, I plan to run the brake lines (under-floor mounted master cylinder) and wiring harness.

All lines/cables will be hung with rubber lined "P" type clamps, about every 2 feet, drilled and tapped into the frame rail itself.  Is this OK?.

Anyone have any tips? Pics? Just wondering what everyone else is doing...I want this to be right the first time. THanks, and sorry for the long post.  Jesse

[RichFox]

I guess you know about the extra shielding you will need for your fuel lines where they pass in the plane of the clutch/flywheel. 4.10 gears sounds like you plan to buzz the motor pretty high.

[Cajun Kid]

Rich, or he has some real tall tires !!!

Jesse,  make sure when your fuel line gets up near the bellhousing, run the braided line ( I assume 1/2" line ? ) through some round tubing with thick 1/4" wall.. attacked to the inside passenger frame rail as you described.

I used .120 wall and had to go back and put some .125 angle over it to be at .250 wall thickness.

Charles

[slepe67]

yes, I SEARCHED in here like crazy to find out just how thick Tech wanted the flywheel protection.  They don't exactly spell it out...made the notes in my rulebook.

The 4.10 gears came with the rear end.  I plan to drag race it a bit.  Then, I'm going higher ratio.  Good catch.  6000 RPM is going to be insane!

I THOUGHT I could build a car that could be used for LSR and NHRA, BUT, the rules are not even in the same ballpark...  I'm going to get the chassis sorted out and go from there.   Thanks.  JL

[thundersalt]

Shitcan the holley reg and get a bigger carb. I think stock Z28 302 and BOSS 302 came with around 730CFM. IMO. Good luck.

[RichFox]

yes, I SEARCHED in here like crazy to find out just how thick Tech wanted the flywheel protection.  They don't exactly spell it out...made the notes in my rulebook.

The 4.10 gears came with the rear end.  I plan to drag race it a bit.  Then, I'm going higher ratio.  Good catch.  6000 RPM is going to be insane!

I THOUGHT I could build a car that could be used for LSR and NHRA, BUT, the rules are not even in the same ballpark...  I'm going to get the chassis sorted out and go from there.   Thanks.  JL

A standard Lakewood or other hydro formed blow shield will make tech happy. Then they still want the extra 1/4 inch wall tube around the fuel line. If you made your own flywheel shield it would need to be 1/4 inch steel.

[mtkawboy]

67-69 302 Z/28s came with 780 Holleys , I ran one in NHRA D/stock in the mid 70s in Division 2

[836dstr]

Jesse,

First of all, it's hard to build and run a dual purpose car unless it will be a "hobby racer" and not be competitive in either LSR or drag Racing.

I run a D/STR with a 302 Chevy running a 750 Race Demon. Out of the box jetting is pretty close both at El Mirage and Bonneville. A 28" tire with a 3.40 gear will put you in the 7,500 RPM range at about 190.

With an electric fuel pump you will need to wire in an inertial kill switch for 2010. Plan your Main kill switch to be easily accessible and well labled at the rear of the car. You might also consider wiring in a quick disconect Jumper cable for starting using Push truck power.

Why are you using front brakes?

Always buy the best AN fuel line you can get. There is some made overseas the leaks over a short period of time.

Have to go, but I'll try to think of some more stuff and post later.

Tom

Welcome to the D/STR ranks!

[slepe67]

wow, tons of great feedback!

Guess I'll start in order.
Thundersalt, I read a build-up where they ran a 650 on the same combo I'm using/have.  It put out 410HP.  I plan to upgrade, just using what I have now, fine tuning from there.  If I toss the Holley Regulator, what do you recommend I replace it with?  Again, using what I have.  It's brand new (paid for), might as well use it.

RichFox, yes, I plan to run the Lakewood bellhousing.  I have ths stock one for now, to get the car built, then will spend the $$$ on that part.  NHRA or SCTA, I have to have it.

836DSTR-I know what you mean about dual purpose.  I plan to have some fun with it, until I build my next cruiser, then this thing is gonna be full on racer. My wife doesn't know that yet!   I plan to get it as fast as I possibly can in the meantime.  It would be done by now if I didn't know about this Daggum  racing stuff, haha!    Rear tires: 255/60-15, they're about 27 inches tall.  The intertia switch is in the works, I was thinking about an oil pressure kil switch as well???  Gotcha on the Main Kill.  This forum has helped me a lot, as well as the rulebook.  I'm using front brakes, as it is a street car for now, trying to figure a way to remove them for racing.  Machine a hub???  My braided fuel line is made in USA, seems pretty good so far.

Ayways, thanks again fells for your honest inputss.  I'm working on the fuel and brakes the next few days, I'll post pics when it's done.  Then, disassemble, paint, and reinstall.

[slepe67]

FWIW, via my calculator, I'm showing, with 4.10 gears, 27" tires, and a 4 speed, with 1:1final ratio, I will be turning 6123 RPM @ 120 MPH.  Good for drag racing, not so much for LSR.  Think the lowest I've seen for an 8.8 rear end, is 3.56:1. With 3.56's, I can go 150 mph @ 6645 RPM.  This is way down the road right now, it seems like my future in LSR is light-years away right now.

[4-barrel Mike]

3.08's available via Summitracing.com, three different manufacturers, I think.

Mike

[slepe67]

3.08's available via Summitracing.com, three different manufacturers, I think.

Mike

that's better!  That will get me 170MPH @ 6150 RPM.  I may jsut get them now.  I had some 3.00s in my '67 Mustang w/ a built 351C.  IT FLEW.  A bit slow outta the hole, but, when it started to eat...lookout!

[thundersalt]

I know a lot of guys run Holley regs with no problems and will probably be OK for you application. If you have ever taken apart a Holley pump or reg you can see how small the passages are (I could probably urinate more flow after 3 bud lights). I have been using a Magnafuel pump and regulator and happy with the results.

[slepe67]

I have been using a Magnafuel pump and regulator and happy with the results.

  Searching for that, thanks  JL

[slepe67]

I'm looking around google, but, figured I'd ask in here as wel.  Has anyone made their own blowproof sheld to go over the bellhousing?  I'm sure it would be much easier to buy one, but...we're car builders, that's what we do;)