turbo motor build

[Jonny Hotnuts]

 


The crank arrived today!

The journals look like mirrors, void of the tiny scratches it had before. The micro polishing looks great and the pics dont do it justice.

Also the non polished parts are now almost black and the thing stinks like a turd wrapped in burn hair.
This must be from heating during the nitride process. Whatever the reason to have the crank fluxed, checked for straightness, polished, balanced and nitrated for 200$.....

Seems like money well spent.

ALSO….

UPS saved me due to the fact that the house address was wrong from Marine, thankfully the local driver knew where “Jonny Hotnuts” was from seeing me work on the car in front of the house last summer. The address was 4220 on the box…..I live at 4240….not far but I am glad brown was on its toes! I am going to personally tell her manager what a good job she did (UPS is a client and I am there everyday) when I see him tomorrow.

All I need now are the bearings and I can get most of it back together.

~JH

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Here is more headwork and now that I have the valves out I can do. Here is how to weld up the emmission holes. I made a home made valve spring compressor out of a large C clamp and an old .75 socket (notched out the side to access the keepers). I must admit while was fairly ghetto it worked good.

If you are going to port a head you might as well weld up these holes. They are not needed and cause flow turbulence in the port. I have never seen any data regarding any HP gains by welding up the hole alone without porting but I am sure its better even if minor.


First....





Remove the valves. In truth you could do this without removing the valves but youll get bits of crap all through the head so its better IMO to pull them.




Check out my duke PAIR blockoffs I made 2 years ago. Glad to see them go.



Here are the holes in question. You can see that they are fairly large and even if blocked from the top with PAIR block offs will still trip flow.



Get a set of large vice grips and remove the studs needed for the Pair valve. This will make the head look cleaner.



Scuff an area around the holes, I used an 80 grit .75 cylinder flap wheel on a die grinder, this will also be used later on.



Weld up the holes.
I used a MIG with 100% argon and aluminum wire. Some people say that MIG guns dont work well for aluminum but I have found that if properly setup and the line is straight (providing you dont have a spool gun, and I dont) they can in fact work really pretty good but I long for the day I have a TIG.



After the holes are welded use your die grinder with a .5 carbide burr (flame) and remove the excess stock off the holes.



After you remove the stock with the burr you will have "chatter" use the 80 grit flap wheel to blend the chatter out.

I didnt spend much time cleaning this up.....
I have a buddy that is going to loan me a ported head so I can map the ports. I can not access my ported head on the 1507 without removing it and the valves. He has a few that are DOA but still have good ports to look at.

Should have it next weekend.



Good luck

~JH

[Seldom Seen Slim]

JH, thanks for the coninuing nice diary.  I -- as well as lots of others on the site -- appreciate your efforts in documenting the work you're doing.

Speaking of the site -- thanks to you and others were given to Nancy and me today here at Maxton.  Many, many times we'd look up and find someone that we'd never seen -- moseying up to tell us how much he or she enjoys the site, the diaries, the chat, and so on.  Thanks to all of you folks.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Now that I got the valves out I could work on the other side of the head.



Here you can see a nasty transition from the seat to the port.



Here the port is profiled, very important to have a ported head to copy if you never done this before (like me!)



Heres the start of integrating the guides. This made me sweat; I was always thinking it would break thought a jacket but my guide head told me it would be OK.



Here you can see the ports starting to take shape



After they are profiled I hit it with my flap with a little water. No more nasty transitions.

I wanted my air compressor to cool off but I am done for the most part. I can see how spending 700+ is worth it, I have a lot of hours in this head and I am not done but at least I know how to port one in the future.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Here a few pics of piston prep.

This is ZERO fun.

After you get your new pistons (these are JE turbo) you will have sharp edges and thin spots from cutting the valve reliefs It is very important to round all of these out or they will develop hot spots and melty pistons.

I found it fairly difficult to find any info on what people did to their pistons to prep them so it was sort of what I thought would work as apposed to a standard method. Others may have a very different way to approach this......




Heres a pic of the piston after I knocked off the sharp sides with first 120 grit then 360. I dont have a pic of the pistons before I did this but can assure you that the sides were almost razor sharp around the valve reliefs.



I hooked a small buffing wheel to my electric die grinder and started with red compound.


Here the piston is starting to look ok



almost finished



finished

[Jonny Hotnuts]

After using a dingleberry hone to de-glaze the block I installed the spacer and checked my deck height clearance.....

really I just wanted to see the cylinders on before the weekend was over.....

Funny thing is that I still need to take a few steps backwards before I can get to this point but at least I am headed in the right direction!



Also-
This guy did a step by step video log of rebuilding a turbo hayabusa motor.

He has about 30 videos of the rebuild.
He did a few things that I didnt agree with but overall are very useful and a very valuable resource.


http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=mileageking&view=videos&start=20

[bharmon77]

Jonny,

I know that this is not a new subject but I am asking again for help modifying a Hayabusa wiring harness for LSR. I understand from some online research that it is necessary to wire in some resistors, a TRE and pig tails for the starter button and ignition switch. What I need are some detailed instructions on what and where. Do you do your own? I have dug into the stock wiring harness in an attempt to do it myself and am now at a point that I do not want to go any further without guidance. Any ideas?

BHarmon

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Jonny,

I know that this is not a new subject but I am asking again for help modifying a Hayabusa wiring harness for LSR. I understand from some online research that it is necessary to wire in some resistors, a TRE and pig tails for the starter button and ignition switch. What I need are some detailed instructions on what and where. Do you do your own? I have dug into the stock wiring harness in an attempt to do it myself and am now at a point that I do not want to go any further without guidance. Any ideas?

BHarmon

I do my own and suggest you do also.
Even though running the electrical gauntlet of the busa is a pain the knowledge will serve you well WHEN you have electrical issues in the future.

According to one of the new rules in the book it looks like electric FPs will have to have a tip switch (currently I am sick as a dog and dont want to run upstairs to get my book) so this may be wrong meaning the tos or other device my have to remain. I see no reason why the stock TOS would not work if special attention was devoted in mounting.

This would eliminate one resistor or modded sensor.

-ALSO-


Because the ECU was hacked I now consider it to be a better option to build (or buy) the plugs and switch that allows you to edit the ECU and remove the 6th gear restrictor built in from the factory. This eliminates the need for a TRE and keeps the correct fuel curves in all gears (better).
The ECU editor will also allow you to do other things as well and may allow you to edit the ECU to remove the need to have the kick stand switch, clutch switch, TOS and other interlocks that were overirded by modding the harness to bypass. I will find out if the ECU editor will allow us to do this in addition to removing the 6th gear limit.


Otherwise....
There are a few things you will need to do to the harness.....
Will let you know soon.
Currently I am to sick (gripe de cerdo) too be very helpful.


~JH

[Geo]

JH,

I am enjoying your engine work.  Thanks for sharing.

currently I am sick as a dog

You haven't been kissing pigs have you?

Geo

[Jonny Hotnuts]

You haven't been kissing pigs have you?

Currently I am to sick (gripe de cerdo) too be very helpful.

 "gripe de cerdo"

Translation:
flu of pigs.....

I have been learning to speak spanish the last few years and had fun today telling my Mexican speaking co-workers when they asked if I was "infermo" (sick) that I have "gripe de cerdo" and watching them run.

Funny thing is that if you have Mexican friends and they know you are ill every one will have a different guaranteed cure ranging from Menudo (tripe soup), bull nuts (huevos de toro) to eating limes and coconuts.

I think I will open a bottle of red wine and call it a night!

~JH

[bharmon77]

Jonny,

As always thank you for the help, I was aware of the new tip over switch rule and see that as one less component to mess with, in some earlier reading someone did express concern for the TOS loosing contact on a rough course but mounted properly it should not be any different than on the bike? Reprogramming the ECU will be new territory for me but then so is modifing the harness so why not? Any help will be appreciated and I will advise any progress. I sure hope that you get to feeling better, the flu is no fun whether it is the pig type or any other.

Get some rest,
BHarmon
7077 H/BFL

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Heres Tim Schnell (red hatter and shop owner) doing the valve seats and opening the exhaust 1mm.

The tool in the second pic is a guide made for doing the busa head.....They didnt have one so now I own it (it cost 80 from Newen) but in the future if I need to do another big valve head it will only cost me 60 because I have the tooling.

The seats turned out perfect.




What has seemed like years I now have the head back on the motor.
The only thing I regret is that I didnt use the roller chain conversion.
Too many people said it wasnt needed but still I think I should of.


Here is a pic of my degreeing setup.
It took me 5 hours to get it done....but I could likely do another in 30-45 mins.

Part of the time was building a jig to hold the dial and the TDC bell.

~JH

[Jonny Hotnuts]

If you rebuild a busa motor make one of these. This will allow you to prime the oil system. It is possible to have air locks in the motor and this will cause oil starvation in a new motor.

I also decided it would be a good idea to use only 1 quart of oil and a low mileage used filter and after running the pump for about 5 minutes I changed the oil and added a new filter. In the video you can see oil pumping out of the end of the clutch end of the transmission so I could not really run the pump fast in the video (one hand holding the camera) but if you put your thumb over the hole you can really build some pressure and circulate the oil in the system and through the filter flushing any bits of metal or dirt hidden in the motor through the filter before its fired up.

I have not heard of anyone doing this with the intent of cleaning the system it just seemed like a good idea.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83p-eN05pqQ&feature=channel_page

[1212FBGS]

this is a turbo motor right?..... on your april 5th pix you ported the valve guides to a sharp point....you better do something about that unless you are expecting the valves to stick in the guides and them smash into your finely ported head which will cause the rods to dent the bearing shells causing failure and eventually poking a nice window in your ebay cases....... not that i would have any first hand experiences in that kind of stuff happening....oh by the way, what kind of seat pressure are ya setting up?
love ya
Kent

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Kent, its hard to tell from the pics you mentioned but while thinner at the end I did not go below the face of the stock guide. If memory serves it was no less than 1/16" around the original hole.





Using 65 psi springs.

~JH