turbo motor build

[Seldom Seen Slim]

Unh, JH, I don't want to sound too much like a predictor of doom, but should you really be showing us this photo, complete with bearing inserts on the bottom?  It's like asking for trouble, isn't it?

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Thats a good eye SSS.

Lets hope not.

BTW:
Any ideas I had of keeping the main bearings went away due to the crank work being done.

[1194]

Interesting.......A friend of mine who follows Landracing.com on a daily basis, said to me
"how come on this Busa build we never hear any advise or statements from the really fast people
like John N, Jason and several others who race Busa motors"  I tryed to explain to him that the "fast guys" race at a different level than most of the M/C LSR people.  With the help of Denis Manning (BUB) M/C LSR is now at a higher
level.....it pays money.....big money...........................
If you want to have a go at these dollars, you don't tell your fellow racers your "speed secrets"
I find nothing wrong with this.....Let's face it most of us do LSR as a fun hobby and some work very hard on a profesional basis and set outstanding speed records....they deserve these records and the monies.
In my younger days I followed the European roadrace "circus" and your start money (your travel and expense monies) was only as good as your last race placing......so everything was kept a big secret from the other racers ......some time to the point of being really stupid.....Hey, it was all about paying your expenses................................
So leave the "fast people" alone and let them
set their outstanding records, they deserve it......








 

[Stainless1]

And all this time I just thought they used stock motors and threw a turbo on... 

[maj]

There is a fairly std recipe for a solid turbo motor, with variations on brand preference or the flavor of the month, much of it has been answered  ad nausium esp on busa specific boards .
only some things like oil gallery mods are kept to the few that developed it and sell the finished product.

Most things JH has picked up on fairly quickly either by searching or asking , biggest difference is a fine job of documenting his efforts

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Maj, thanks for the kind words and agree that much of the "black art" of building these motors has been discussed many times in other places.

As far as JN and JM are concerned.....(and Maj for that matter...)
They have offered assistance on multiple occasions and have freely given info if I asked. Noonan even gave me his phone number and said I should call if I have any questions. JN was also helpful in me getting some assistance from APE and hopefully I will be able to make it up to him one of these days.
I am confident that if I posted something on this build that was wrong or they disagreed with, they would let me know (I may get an email or PM about it as apposed to a post here).

I give the things I have learned freely (and even offered parts to LSR people to borrow or for little of their value)....and will continue....and will offer assistance even if someone was actively making a run on one of our records OR a run at a record I was shooting for at any given meet....even if as a result of my help meant I didnt get the record. 

I had someone help me, asked for nothing in return and now in my own way I (at least try) to pay it forward.


Something to consider......

The fastest vehicles out there usually have the fewest stickers.
A wise person once told me "land racing will make you a small fortune.....if you start with a BIG one!"

I disagree that the people that are the fastest dont tell because they fear they will loose money or they don’t want to have their records beat. I have found the fastest to be the most generous with information.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Still waiting on the crank.....

Because its the weekend I got a little stir crazy so I decided to learn head porting.

Here is a list of things you will need if you decide to try this yourself:

Die grinder
carbide rasps (a few different sizes and lengths, their expensive...get ready to drop about 25-30 per, a 4”X.5 flame tip will get ya real close )
cylinder flap wheels (I am using 80 and 120s)
depth gauge (only needed to be accurate to the 1/16th, so you can use another method for measuring)
snap gauges
a reference head or really good map (I recommend using a reference head but I made a map that you can have if you feel froggy and want to jump).
A good light (didnt have but wished I did)
bench to work on at a height that is comfortable to work on......


The head I am using for a reference head is a stage 3 big valve. This is not a CNC done head but was hand ported by what many consider to be a master and was flow/velocity tested. This head is on our big bore motor (1507) and made 242 WHP without adders so it clearly is doing a good job.

Note that I did not remove the valves (no valve spring compressor) and did not finish the job yet....I will be having the exhaust seats enlarged for a +1mm and SS valves installed. Once the head is milled for the larger exhaust valves I will finish from the other side and blend the step made by milling process.
I can not really do any more until the head is milled for the larger valves and the old ones are removed.

With that....


I started off by making a cap to keep excess bits from getting in the head....sort of a waste of time because the thing will be cleaned anyway.



Here you can see what some of the fuss is about. The head casting is rough.



Here is a measurement of the reference head (this is actually what I called "level 2" measurement.
You need to be very aware that these ports are not round...they are in fact oval so you will need to take measurements in X,Y and Z.
 
I did however note that there were equal amounts of stock removed from each side of the port and all ports were close to identical, so you dont have to worry about that

In this pic you can see that at a depth of 1.5" my snap gauge measured 1.85 for the "X" (it was considerably less for the Y and only about a 3/32 more than OEM (less than 1/16th per side on the top and bottom removed and really just enough to clean and polish) but also note that I haven’t got past the valve seat yet and this may change in the future).



My first measurement was about 1/8th larger than OEM from the end of the port to about 1". Use your grinder to make equal depth grooves on either side of the port until you snap gauge fits. These grooves will let you meter how much stock you are removing from each side and how deep.



Once you establish how much stock will be removed and how deep you can blend the groove in by progressively removing material on either side of the groove until you can not discern it from the surrounding surface. Remember that there is very little material removed from the top and bottom (Y) of the port but in truth quite a bit came off the sides.



I recommend taking your measurement steps about every inch.



Its hard to tell but this is about 3" into the port. You can see the "level 3" measurement groove.



Here is the flap wheel I use to remove the chatter caused by the carbide rasp.
The thing looks big in the pic but in reality is only about .75".
I only hit one port for a minute to give you an idea....I will be much more precise once I get the other side done.



Here you can see a good bit of the chatter is removed and are starting to look pretty good.
I will admit that so far it hasnt been difficult to do this but take into consideration that I am copying note for note the work that was vested in learning the places to remove material and how to shape the port for optimum performance.

If you got the hotnuts I would say that porting your own head is very doable but remember without using a reference head or map you will be almost guaranteed you will find an oil/water passage if you want to do anything other than just cleaning it up.   
                                                                                                                                     

                                                                                                             

[1212FBGS]

nuts... next time use bee's wax on your carbides... it will keep the alum from loading up on the cutter... by the way, most of the power is at the port short side, your waisting your time unless you get the valve out and cut off the guides and blend the port to the seats
kent

[Jonny Hotnuts]

nuts... next time use bee's wax on your carbides... it will keep the alum from loading up on the cutter... by the way, most of the power is at the port short side, your waisting your time unless you get the valve out and cut off the guides and blend the port to the seats
kent

Not sure why Kent but these dont load......every other cutter or blade I have ever used always seems to get loaded but these never have.

I do like the wax idea....will see if it comes in handy in the future.

More to come on the porting.....valves comming out this week.
Clearly see what you mean with the valve seat blending.


~JH

[jl222]

 wd-40 helps also.


         JL222

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Stopped by the shop doing the +1mm oversized exhaust valve for us and they need to have the oversized valves going in the head in hand before they can do it.
Shoulda known.

SS valves ordered tomorrow.
Now its more waiting.

Still don’t have the crank yet!

[John Noonan]

Nuts,

I may have missed it however what are you doing to the crank that you are waiting on?

J

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Nuts,

I may have missed it however what are you doing to the crank that you are waiting on?

J

Balanced, polished & nitried.

I remember somewhere you said dont lighten or remove the CB.....so I didnt.


~JH

[John Noonan]

Did you send it to Marine Crankshafts?

John

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Did you send it to Marine Crankshafts?

John

Yes, and it arrived on the 12th or 13th.....I called to see if it had arrived OK (it had). Dave said his turnaround was 2 weeks but have not heard anything yet and its almost 3 weeks.

I was gonna give him a call around Friday-ish.