Milwaukee Midget

[salt27]

"I prefer corned beef hash for breakfast."

MMmm-mmm, good.  Armour Star corned beef hash, right?  With a gently fried egg on top and a couple of slices of toast and copious Heinz ketchupp, right?  Way better than "Mary Kitchen", even if it's named after Stan Back's momma.

I didn't see that on the menu at Pancakes R Us.   

    Don

[gearheadeh]

K-NINE  does have a nice ring to it. 

[Milwaukee Midget]

Fordboy -

Unable to read any numbers, but the intake port is 34 mm.

As far as corned beef hash, the best bet is to either make your own, or go to Benji's -

http://www.benjisdeliandrestaurant.com/

That and a cup of chicken matzo ball soup on a Sunday morning, and you can almost skip the Bloody Mary.

Been to Katz's in Manhattan - can't hold a candle to Benji's.

We've had the same waitress for 15 years - Mirka - we walk in, and she doesn't even ask - she just puts the order in and brings the coffee.

[Milwaukee Midget]

Yeah, yeah, I know – I said “Horse FIRST, THEN cart.” 

But sometimes you have to clean out the stall, and when the cart is in the way, well, you just have to deal with it.

So the new K engine was covered in grime, and sitting on a dolly in the garage, creating an oily British trip hazard.  Mark had mentioned he’d like to get some measurements off of it and flow the head, and it would tuck away in the corner on an engine stand a lot easier than the dolly arrangement, so seeing we had our 2nd 60 degree day all year, I decided to do a partial tear down.

A trip to O’Reilly netted three cans of degreaser and a dig to the bottom of the pile found the HP washer, so . . .



This got it to the point that I could put my hands on it without having to enter detox.  The whole thing’s pretty light – about 170 pounds, but I elected to use the cherry picker to mount it up rather than a come-along around a rafter.  Hanging below is the tied up seat belt the breaker used to extract the engine – tied around the plastic intake manifold.



Ports are nicely sized – 34mm intake, 31 exhaust –



And the valves are well sized for what will be a 1 liter engine, 28mm intake, 24 exhaust – clearly a more modern head design underneath all that carbon build-up.  I measured as best I could across the valves to determine how small a bore I could fit.  Looks like about 73mm is as small as possible without having to notch the sleeves – an idea I’m not too keen on.



It had clearly been apart at some point earlier – at least a new timing belt was attached.  Note “L” and “R” on crank pulleys.  Not likely done by a factory certified MG/Rover dealer – a number of the bolts on the belt cover were missing or replaced with non-standard pieces, but everything seems to be there.



2 coil packs – likely a wasted spark arrangement.  I know this drill - well enough to know that these will NOT be the coil packs I will be running.  I couldn't make out the markings - didn't even try - they just seemed to have that Lucas aura about them - kind of like a negative photographic image of a halo on an alien . . .




I'm thinking I'll get this head to Fordboy this weekend, after I'm done with the deck plate and ring filing on the Grenade.

[fordboy628]

Re:  Cart first, then horse . . . . . .

Yeah, yeah, I know – I said “Horse FIRST, THEN cart.” 

But sometimes you have to clean out the stall, and when the cart is in the way, well, you just have to deal with it.

The high fallutin' call it by the glamorous term:  "mucking out". . . . . . .     I guess when you don't have to shovel or smell the horse sh**, you might want to call it "muck" . . . . . .


Some, sort of random, thoughts about "Krover", using the Suzuki example you emailed me . . . . . . . .

A/    Well, using the MB power conversion formula: if the 191 bhp was developed @ 15,756 rpm, just a reduction to 10,504 rpm would drop the power to 127.4 bhp . . . . . .
       and that's linear.   From 191 bhp/litre.

2/    The time tested Cosworth output @ 10,500/11,000 rpm is/was 170 bhp/litre, mechanically INJECTED.    Holds true for a number of Cosworth variants, all INJECTED.
       INJECTED it's going to have to be, AND TUNEABLE, within the resources you have/can afford.    So a stock m/cycle setup MAY work, BUT, it needs to be TUNEABLE.
       I don't know enough about their injection controls to have an opinion, BUT, I know OEM engineers don't like peons messing around with their fuel/ignition mapping.
       It would be smarter to start with a "TUNEABLE" sytem, rather than trying to change a factory ECU.

       Recalling that I recently promoted myself from "Captain Obvious" to "Major Pain", I want to point out that sometimes guys try to use stock/std parts for racing
       applications, for reasons of economy.    Speaking for myself, I am weary of being bitten in the a** by "economy".    Unless, . . .  I get a promotion to "General Soreness".

d/    If you take the reasonable output numbers from the "K engine page" which is circa 1999, they seem to be around 140/145 bhp/litre.   If you factor that by a rpm
       reduction from 10,500/11,000 rpm, to say 9500 rpm, (.90476) then 140 bhp becomes 126.6 bhp, very close to the 127.4 bhp above.

       I'm thinking that a reasonable target for the first iteration of "Krover" would be 125/130 bhp @ approx. 9500 rpm.    80 ish ft/lbs torque, 7000/7500 rpm?   EWAG on my
       part.   More information on the limitations of "the kettle" need to be gathered, more numbers need to be crunched.   But, "Captain Obvious" thinks 125/130 bhp makes
       the "milwaukee midget" a 125/130 mph "cart".

 
confusedaboutmyidentityboy

[Milwaukee Midget]

Actually, my thought was using the GSX 1300 or equivalent throttle bodies.  I'm seeing a lot of rebuildable sets used for ~$200.00, the parts are readily available, simple to work on, and set up with an Electromotive brainbox, completely tunable.

We'd be asking about 2/3 the capability of the injectors for this app.

[Tman]

OK, I tried to get back up to speed but am still somewhat lost. What is this new engine and when did you decide to go this way and why. There, that should be easy!@

[Stainless1]

T... Back up a couple of pages...

MM, you might want to think about GSXR 1000 TBs... same injector as the 1300, but slightly smaller holes. I can measure  a set for you if you want. They will support 180 NA HP.

[Milwaukee Midget]

Bob, thanks, and yes - we're in information gathering mode on this one.  You get a minute, just post it up on here.

I'm particularly curious as to the bore centerline distances on a complete set. 

[Tman]

Okay - the die has been cast -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251443838396?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

On its way.

Double over head cams - let's see if we can make some power.

Should be on the salt in 2016.

Chris

Ok, I see this post but still am missing some backstory. You guys have ADD. What class does this take you to?

[Milwaukee Midget]

Okay - the die has been cast -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251443838396?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

On its way.

Double over head cams - let's see if we can make some power.

Should be on the salt in 2016.

Chris

Ok, I see this post but still am missing some backstory. You guys have ADD. What class does this take you to?

Still in GT - which allows engine swaps by the same manufacturer.   We'll take it down to 1000 ccs and stay in I. 

[Tman]

OK

[Jack Gifford]

... am still somewhat lost. What is this new engine...

Ditto on feeling lost. I pretty much look at these forums every day, but apparently missed something...

[fordboy628]

Uhhmmm, Friday night at 6:34pm?!?

The order is:

BEER FIRST, then DONK, then horse, then cart.      I feel like I left something out . . . . .   Oh yeah,  BEER!
 
Simulatorboy

P.S.   You don't even want to know what the crevice volume in the DONK is . . . . . . good thing there aren't any valve reliefs . . . . . .  

Nope - DONK FIRST.

Actually, this new engine purchase has lit a fire under my arse - that and we're 133 days away.  The nominally better weather outlook has been a motivator as well.

Okay, here’s the deal.  




Square peg in round hole.




I want to keep the end of the Moroso adapter that already has the crescent slot cut in it – because I’m lazy – and cheap.  It’s easier to cut up and redrill a bracket than it is to create one.

Now the bosses for the water pump are machined flat – plus there’s an ear where the alternator used to hang out -




I’m thinking if I carve up a ½ thick piece of aluminum, secure it by sandwiching the water pump between it and the block, and run 3 spacers between the Moroso motor hanger and the aluminum piece, I should be able to center the motor drive over the pulley.

Fordboy - Time to call Wiggle Pin.

midget,

How is it going on the electric water pump fit up?

I'll be at Mike's (Wiggle Pin's) today.   If you still plan on coming down, we could "hack out" what you need . . . .

If you are up to lugging the donk (and all the associated bits) beneath the cheddar curtain . . . . . .

Call the Psychotic Hotline for an intervention . . . . . . . .      AND, bring . . . . . libations . . . . . . .
 
Fabriziothehacksaw

[fordboy628]

... am still somewhat lost. What is this new engine...

Ditto on feeling lost. I pretty much look at these forums every day, but apparently missed something...

Working on these 4 cylinder donks . . . . . .    I feel like I've missed a part of my brain.

First it's the "5 port handicap" . . . . . .      Now it's the "Let save money on bolts" idea . . . . . .

Hail Britannia!!

Where's that butterfly net?
 
Australopithecus/spiff-a-reno