Mid- Engine Modified Sports

[manta22]

Glen;

Stainless mentioned the same thing when he dropped by for a visit last month. I realize that some salt is  eventually going to get into virtually everything but I'm going to make an effort to keep as much salt out as possible. First, the chassis will be primed with a PTI 2-part zinc chromate epoxy primer and then top coated with a Deft 2-part polyurethane isocyanate resin. The aluminum panel will also be primed with the same PTI primer. It won't resist corrosion forever but it should probably be OK for a couple of seasons.

The joint between the chassis tubes and the panel (the so-called "faying surface) will be sealed with an odd product from CRC-- a "foam RTV". Comes in a can and you apply it just like using a can of Reddi-Whip-- no kidding! The rivets will be dipped in Hylomar before being placed into their holes and pulled.

No doubt a removable panel held on by Dzus fasteners would be far simpler and easy to remove but my panel is a stressed panel that is part of the chassis structure, Dzus fasteners can't be used on stressed panels- they are not strong enough and you'd need too many to distribute the stress over a wide area. You & Stainless raised a valid point.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[manta22]

Neil:

I appreciate the detailed explanation. I know about the regular clecos but never heard about the large screw type. I have never seen one until your picture. I can see where that is a handy device when you need additional grip. I always learn something from your post.

I now use a little punch I have with a built in magnifier it helps the old eyes get the punch on the mark. I bought it on a machine tool site. Comes in handy when I need to be exact.

BR

A punch with a magnifier is a great idea! Thanks, BR. I learned something, too. 

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[wheelrdealer]

Neil:

Cant remember where I bought this but they had a few sizes. Wish I had bought the other two sizes. This sat in my drawer for 15 years until I started needed reading glasses and my punch makes and drill holes were missing the mark.  Does not look like a hard item to make. I think I will take a stab at making a larger one from a dollar store magnifier.

BR

[tauruck]

Neil, same tools different country.

All my Clecos including the larger threaded variety live in a container of Acetone.
Their use isn't restricted to metal in my shop and a long time ago I had to throw quite a few away due to resin contamination.
School fees!!!.

Clecos are the coolest tools I have period.

I also have thousands of blind rivets but have yet to buy a tool to install them.
My only experience with them was when I helped my brother in law reskin a cargo door from a business jet.

You forgot to mention how light the drill is when you have to drill hundreds of holes.

[manta22]

I think I mentioned how light air drills are, Mike. Speaking of air drills, I now have 286 #30 holes drilled un the aluminum panel and most are match-drilled in the steel chassis tubes. Some still need to be drilled into the chassis but my wrist has had enough for today. I used my pneumatic Cleco runner to install & remove the cylindrical Clecos. I sure makes that job easier. Thanks, Ingersol- Rand!

The best tool for installing blind rivets that I've found is a PT-100 made by FSI. It operates on shop air and generates 4500 lbs pull with its internal hydraulic pump. It is small and light and costs a fortune but used ones can often be found on eBay for prices that vary all over the place, sometimes as low as $50. The thing you have to watch is whether it includes the size tips that you need. Mine started to malfunction (it was low on hydraulic fluid) so I mailed it back to FSI and they rebuilt it for $80. I think that was a very reasonable cost to make it work like new. FSI also makes D-100, a manual tool that does the job and it can pull Nutserts with the right adapter.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[tauruck]

Tools are my passion Neil and over the years I've built a fair size collection of what I call necessary stuff.

If I worked with metal more than I do I'd really be in trouble. I try stay away from catalogs.

The brother in law has left the aviation industry and he might be selling his sheet metal tools.

I have a few IR tools here. Compressor, nut driver and nibbler. All high quality. The youngster borrowed the nibbler to cut holes in his car to fit bigger speakers.
I warned him about covering the carpeting but he never listened.

I will check out that PT-100.

Guys over here modify hand riveters to do Nutserts. I use a slightly more complex system but it works for me.

[Speed Limit 1000]

I had to put underscores to get that word to go through. The "spell check" kept substituting the phrase "penile device"        

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Hell I just thought you were referring to Stainless

[Stainless1]

Neil, I think you should put a pluggable drain or 2 in your bottom stress panel if it won't compromise the strength you are looking for.  That will allow you to flood the area with water to wash the salt dust out.  it sounds like you will have a good seal. Just remember to use lots of water, multiple times, no pressure.
Just a thought

[manta22]

Stainless, I will definitely put drain holes in the bottom panel. Otherwise the saltwater will just pool up there until it evaporates. There are a few places in the fiberglass body that will need drain holes, too- for the same reason.

I'll be listening to the live broadcast from Wilmington while I'm working in the shop today. Thanks to everybody who made this broadcast possible.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[manta22]

I've tried this  five times-- changed text, changed picture file name, changed both at the same time and I still get "you've already posted..." One more try for today.

So far I have drilled three hundred and ninety three holes; starting to think I might not countersink them after all. We'll see

I'm beginning to think the program just looks at the attachment file size rather than its name. Arrrggghhh.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[manta22]

maybe..............

[manta22]

Aha! After trying to post the picture three more times with different names, I re-sized it so the file size is different than previous attempts... and it went through. 

[salt27]

One heck of a chess board Neil.   

[manta22]

I have drilled about half of the #30 holes out to #20 for the 5/32" rivets that will be installed after the chassis is blasted, primed, and painted. Rivets only meet their specs when placed in holes that are accurate so I used a new 135 degree split-point drill. This gives a clean hole with very few edge burrs. To make sure the hole was perpendicular to the aluminum sheet, I used a microstop (normally used for countersinking a hole) with a 1/4-28 threaded #20 drill. This screws into the end of the microstop and its limited in & out motion allows only a calibrated depth for a countersink. In this case, I only wanted to use it to keep the hole perpendicular, which it does quite well.

I'll attach a couple of pictures that show what a microstop is as well as a threaded drill-- both not too common unless you're building an airplane.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[tauruck]

I know a guy in Everett that has connections..........

They build a few planes up there.

Neil, that's a labor of love.

This is going to be one beautifully built car when its done.

If I ever get to visit you, I want the "Tool Tour".