I'm a pretty experienced amateur painter, and here's my layers -
- On bare metal (steel or aluminum) start with self-etching primer
- Ground fiberglass. Static electricity is NOT your friend when painting this stuff.
- Thin the primer according to the manufacturer's suggestion
- Apply several layers of lacquer primer. Block sand every couple of layers.
- When satisfied, SEAL with thinned DP series epoxy primer (comes in various colors - DP90, for example, is sort of Hot Rod black). This is an important step and keeps any chemical issues from bleeding thru the paint. There are directions on the DP can as to how much to thin.
- DRY SPRAY the color coat, thinned and hardened according to manufacturer's directions. Wet coats here will probably cause problems with checking and other issues.
- Shoot at least 3 coats of clear - it goes on wet. Allow it to flash between coats as recommended.
- After finish (wet sand, buff, etc. as desired. On a race car you might chose to omit this step completely.
- I always stick with a complete system thruout the entire process - my fave is PPG.
- Find a good paint store and listen to them.
- ALWAYS use fresh clear coat hardener. Once the can is opened keep it in the fridge between uses or it WILL NOT harden the clear. Ask me how I know this. On my brother-in-law's truck (felt like an idiot).
- I spray with an old-school Binks #7 gun and it's a winner. I can't tell you how old it is and it can do wonderful things - sometimes even in my hands. Lots of wasted paint, though.
- You can't spray when you can't see - get as much light as you need. Once knew a guy who painted with a trouble light in one hand and the gun in the other. Sometimes I do this, too.
- It's helpful to have an extra person watch the hose as you spray - it's WAY too easy to flick the hose into the paint.
- Don't worry about painting - blithering idiots and drunks can do it.
Lots of info - hope it helps.
Dan