How many gallons of water?

[Jonny Hotnuts]

1507 cc busa motor (H/MS).....Need to know recommended tank size, rad. is mostly for show.

EDIT:

------I see I put this in rules questions, not really a rule questions but its too late!------

Thanks
-JH

[Larry Forstall]

As much as you can fit. On a motorcycle I have run a high of seven gallons and a low of four gallons.  N/A four worked fine. 

[Jonny Hotnuts]

How do pre-fabed fuel cells work for water tanks (less foam)? My water pump has -12 in and out; it would be an easy fit to run one. I could see issues where the water pressure may not work with the cell.

[Larry Forstall]

A quick look in JEGS shows aluminum fuel cells in all sizes with AN10 fittings. Better choice than the plastic. I used AN12 but I am sure you could adapt AN12 fittings. You also need an overflow tank with radiator cap ( I used the lowest pressure I could find 7#) connected above the cell for expansion.

[Stainless1]

JNuts, with the same motor we ran about a 5 Gal water tank, used the stock water pump, and 1 inch lines.  The water tank is located 5 feet from the motor, the outlet is on the bottom, the inlet on the top, mounted about the same level as the engine.  We start with water about 100 - 110, its is around 190 - 200 after 5 miles.  No radiator or thermostat, 7 lb cap I think.  We have a drain in the tank to change the water for cool if we are hot-lapping, water does not cool down very well out there ya know... 

[Stan Back]

Wow -- that almost sounds too simple for this forum!

[Stainless1]

Well it is simple... after all you're just building a gas powered water heater... 

BTW, the 65 inch N20 motor heated the water to almost the same temp, and ran about the same speed, I think there might be a correlation there, just can't put my finger on it....

[Stan Back]

"after all you're just building a gas powered water heater...  "

Didn't know you had a flathead.

[Stainless1]

"after all you're just building a gas powered water heater...  "

Didn't know you had a flathead.

Yep, just like a flathead only different, waaaaaaaaaaay different    we are a little closer to the leading edge of technology than the trailing...    Not a lot, but a little...

[Roadster943]

   I used a portable compressed air tank. Actually 2, a 10 gallon and a 5, I cut the 5 in half and welded each piece on the end of the 10. Inexpensive, will handle any cooling system presure. You can find smaller tanks on cheap offshore air compressors. I bought the air tanks at Napa.  Vince

[Jonny Hotnuts]

JNuts, with the same motor we ran about a 5 Gal water tank, used the stock water pump, and 1 inch lines.  The water tank is located 5 feet from the motor, the outlet is on the bottom, the inlet on the top, mounted about the same level as the engine.  We start with water about 100 - 110, its is around 190 - 200 after 5 miles.  No radiator or thermostat, 7 lb cap I think.  We have a drain in the tank to change the water for cool if we are hot-lapping, water does not cool down very well out there ya know

I would think that with 200 degrees tank temp. @ >7psi you would (or be very close to) have water boiling in the head. Why opt for such a low pressure system when the pressure will prevent boil on the top end?

Why did you remove the thermostat?

I had to remove the stock water pump due to chain routing, using a Meziere electric that performed flawlessly last year. We found it useful to be able to switch the cooling system on even when the motor was not running for hot-lapping. Our class mandates a radiator….but its only air-flow is 2 busa fans…still seemed to work decent....at least on a stock motor!

[hawkwind]

I ran a similsr setup to stainless ,20liters(aprox 5 gal) but using methanol and the temp would not rise above 80C (aprox 176F), switched to a small rad and 3.5 liters(1GAL) ,with much the same results , if we ever get to race again ,I will be trying it without a rad
cheers

[JimL]

For what it's worth, I put 18 gallons on a turbo 2-liter.  The tank had a spill baffle in the middle, with hot return blown into the forward chamber, allowing overflow into the return chamber (back half).  Outlet was from the return half, which reduced the hot water mixing from flow velocity.  No problems on the long course.  You might do the same effect by using two smaller tanks, plumbed together....might even be easier to arrange in limited spaces.  Also easier to tell when your mixing temp is coming back too hot.  I ran heavy gauge metal and 14lb cap.  It'll still bend the tank when you overboost and torch out the head gasket.

I think if I was running series tanks, I'd try to push inlet flow past the outlet flow, to circulate the first tank a little (tubes passing each other internally) to prevent a straight pass hot flow into the second tank.  It might buy you a little more time.

Hope this helps.
JimL

[Sumner]

I would think that with 200 degrees tank temp. @ >7psi you would (or be very close to) have water boiling in the head. Why opt for such a low pressure system when the pressure will prevent boil on the top end?

If you had a tank such as the fuel cells you are thinking about and lets say the sides were flat and 12 inches X 12 inches (144 square inches) and you were running 7 psi in the system you would have 1008 lbs of pressure on the side of the tank if I'm figuring that right.  A round tank would be much better. 



I'm planning on running no pressure and about 15-16 gallons, just in case I'm ever lucky enough to have one of those 500-600 hp 'busa's in the car. The two tanks on the right side of the picture (left side of the car) are for cooling.  The two on the other side are for intercooler ice water.

c ya,

Sum

[Speed Limit 1000]

I had to remove the stock water pump due to chain routing

I run the Bockscar lakester 1000 with Stainless how was the water pump in the way of your chain? We have run with a 20 tooth sprocket on the Busa motor with no chain problems