Main Battery Disconnect switch location?

[Stainless1]

SSS, I was thinking semi-colon; you know the thing that lets you stray from the original subject but still add information.

Good luck Carl, it sounds like you're getting a handle on it, Johansson.

[Carl Johansson]

Carl you did not say what kind of vehicle you are using but during inspection I have seen many applications of the rule. The most innovative was inside the normal gasoline filler tank flap. The most important thing is the writing of it's location and whether you push or pull it. One person did it right side up and upside down. Quite clever.

Since the NHRA uses the rear and many batteries are in the trunk area it is a common place. Many roadsters have it in the area in front of the engine and have the lever on the side of the hood. Others have the lever in the open cockpit area with marking showing where it is. (arrow works)

I personally do not like it inside a coupe where you need to get inside. Even with a identifying tag being upside down and not being able to open a door with an electric fuel pump running causes panic. When rescue personnel reach your car they want to be able to shut stuff off. Many do not know the difference between an electric water pump or fuel pump.

Good luck.

Thanks guys -  it is an 88 vette prepped for GT.  I will mount it on the rear quarterpanel -  as I have the battery box in the back of the vehicle.  having rescue being able to shut it off in case of a crash makes sense. Not being able to turn it off from inside doesn't make sense to me!  A rule this poorly written makes my day harder -  needlessly!

Thanks for all your help guys

Carl Johansson

[Stan Back]

Carl --

The book doesn't say that you can't do it from inside (too).  You could even have a remote from your push truck if you wanted.  Just a few more things to go wrong, and need to be right when firing up the motor.

I think it's still best to have it on the rear -- even as the vehicle might still be moving someone can come from behind and use it.  And as Jack has stated, most in a crash do not end up balanced on their nose, or what's left of it.

I think you'll find the Rule Book a great aid in its not telling you exactly how to build every part of your vehicle (this ain't NASCAR!).

Regards, Stan

[JackD]

Finding the master disconnect for the electrical quickly for a rescue crew is right up there with putting out a fire.
Fumbling around inside the vehicle for anything but the operator is a waste of precious time and dangerous for everybody.
Many stock bikes feature a tip over safety switch that can be purchased for heavy equipment also and they are required in a bike liner..
I can't think of a single electrical thing I want energised if I am waiting for help or even if I was out on my feet.
Think about what it is for and the proper installation will be easy.

[Dean Los Angeles]

Front ends get really wrecky

wrecky? wrecky? wrecky?

[JackD]

Front ends get really wrecky

wrecky? wrecky? wrecky?

While the word may be new, everybody gets it,
sorta like Aerodynamisisters   

[Carl Johansson]

Thanks for the help guys.  i ended up pulling the electric antenna on the rear quarter deck -  the switch fit nicely in the hole -  and the cable runs through the body to the battery box mounted in the rear of the cabin.

Hope that won't cause anyone any heartburn!

Carl

[Carl Johansson]

Finding the master disconnect for the electrical quickly for a rescue crew is right up there with putting out a fire.
Fumbling around inside the vehicle for anything but the operator is a waste of precious time and dangerous for everybody.
Many stock bikes feature a tip over safety switch that can be purchased for heavy equipment also and they are required in a bike liner..
I can't think of a single electrical thing I want energised if I am waiting for help or even if I was out on my feet.
Think about what it is for and the proper installation will be easy.

Your probably right Jack -  so if I have a major electrical issue - arcing and smoke and who knows what -  at 175 miles per hour I will remember your advise.  I'll stop the car -  get out -  run around to the back and flip off the switch. 

BTW -  Look at your previous statement -  you are making my point for me.  In your scenario -  you have to wait for someone else to get to you and find the switch to "deenergize you.  Of course if the switch was inside the car -  you would have "deenergized" everything long before help arrives.  So in the scenario you describe -  you are saying that you would rather wait for help to show up to switch of the current -  instead of doing it immediately -  yourself.

Jack,
Sometimes you try so damned hard to be a contrary hard ass -  that you end up making a great case for the opposite point of view.
Look at this -  I rest my case -  you have made a perfect case for having the button inside the car.

Carl "doing what I can to comply with the rules -  questioning the reasoning behind some of them" Johansson

[RichFox]

You don't have a switch in the car? That's odd. The outside switch is for when your upside down and out cold. The inside switch is for normal use.

[dwarner]

I think Rich gets it.

DW

[hitz]

   I'm in agreement with Rich. A switch or control for the switch in both locations is the best solution.

   Harvey

[RidgeRunner]

Harvey,

     Have you considered a rod or cable cockpit control for the "outside main switch"?  Kind of a two control on one deal?  We are in the same deal with our rig, trying to come up with a plan to cover all bases and keep it simple, reliable, and not forget cutting the alternator feedback.  Still thinking on our set up.  Compromises, compromises........

                                                     Ed

[Carl Johansson]

You don't have a switch in the car? That's odd. The outside switch is for when your upside down and out cold. The inside switch is for normal use.

I am putting a car together from scratch in a little over 5 weeks.  We are scrambling like crazy to get it done.  I'm sure we will have a switch in the car wired in series at some point -  but for now it's the key inside the car -  and the switch outside.  If I could come up with another switch in 2 days I could wire it in now -  but thats not likely!  And I can't hold up the car's progress waiting for a switch -  before I finish the wireing.

Now -  where the heck do I get fire putty from?

Carl Johansson

[Sumner]

Harvey,

     Have you considered a rod or cable cockpit control for the "outside main switch"?  Kind of a two control on one deal?  We are in the same deal with our rig, trying to come up with a plan to cover all bases and keep it simple, reliable, and not forget cutting the alternator feedback.  Still thinking on our set up.  Compromises, compromises........

                                                     Ed

Good idea.  You want the switch as close to the battery as possible as the cable from the battery to the switch will be "hot" even with the switch off.

c ya,

Sum

[Sumner]

Now -  where the heck do I get fire putty from?

Carl Johansson

Go here:

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/bvillelinks.htm#Safety

Then check the "safety related" section,

Sum