Aluminum panel fixing

[neandethal]

Hi Folks,
Looks like i'll be using either 40 or 50 thou aluminum for the body panels of my motorcycle streamliner and was planning on using dzus style fasteners, with captive heads.
My question is, based on experience what is the maximum distance between fasteners to make a secure panel and not get flex/flutter of the panel? Searched the forum without success. Cheers for any advise offered. Ian

[Stainless1]

That may depend on if you are covering frame or if the panel is "free standing" basically formed and attached. The Lakester has a dzus about every 12 inches but the panels are only about 13 inches wide and flat.  You might want to make formed panels from .063 or heavier....
Is there a build diary hidden in here somewhere?

[neandethal]

Hi, increasing to 60 thou is no issue. No build diary as such on forum but have a website at www.racetothesalt.com
Thanks for spacing opinion. Ian

[Elmo Rodge]

It will also depend on shape of the panels.
Wayno.

[interested bystander]

Lotsa good advice here.

Depends on experience and not wanting to insult anyone, but alloy is important (see Aircraft Spruce website for not just a source, but description on the various of such is great)

Having mostly 4 wheel experience, yrs truly would recommend looking up Target 550s web postings. SUPERB WORK and close glimpses of some of the panel fits and spacing.

Using CAPTIVE Dzus buttons is doing a great service to your fellow competitors.

Good luck, hope to see you on the record list.

[manta22]

Self-ejecting Dzus fasteners make removing and installing panels much easier & faster.

[Rex Schimmer]

Duke and I spaced most of our Dzus fasteners at 6 inches and our body is all .062 aluminum. In retrospect I am sure that we could have use 10 inch or even 12 inch centers but if you use .050 or thinner I would suggest a pitch of 6-8 inches. We also did not use the "retained" style Dzus as they break up the surface air flow and I also don't like their looks. We used the -5 sized fasteners in stainless steel which will not corrode from the salt as the retain Dzus will as they are cad or zinc plated steel. I think the trick in using the non retained fasteners is in the initial installation and then in making sure that the fastener is actually over the retainer spring when you install them. It is easy if your panel is just a little off to have the fastener slip to one side of the retainer spring and look like it is in correctly. This is when the fastener pops out during a run and makes a potential flat tire for the next guys. So you have to pay special care during installing your panels. Be sure to have lots of clecos during fabrication installation as you need to have your panel fit exactly to your car and a cleco in every pilot hole for the Dzus fasteners that you plan to use. If you plan to use the non retained type, as we did, do not use a counter sink cutter to make the counter sunk hole for the fastener. I made a special form tool that formed the 100 deg counter sink in the panel, this provides a proper counter sink and the fastener is completely flush with the outer skin surface. It also provides a hole through the panel that is close to the fastener O.D. which assist in proper alignment of the fastener with the retaining spring.

Have fun!

Rex






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[neandethal]

Appreciate all the useful feedback, ill update once bodywork underway, cheers Ian