The Porkchop Express -- 1997 Chevy S-10

[MikeVanErt]

Hello all,

Had the project for awhile now and am finally getting back into as life again allows.  Figured why not make a build diary on here as there is so much great knowledge and feedback on this forum.  So, here goes...

Bought locally for cheap and ran strong until the "Check Gauges" fault kept popping up.  So, I was forced to abandon hot rodding the factory 4.3 to try for USFRA's 130 MPH Club and am now headed down the LS engine path.  Found an LQ9 out of a 2002 Cadillac Escalade.  Going to freshen up the bottom end, upgrade the heads, put a very healthy cam in it and switch to a carb.  Plan as of now is to couple it with a 200-4R transmission and a Ford 9 inch.  Going to try and ride that combo into the USFRA 130 and 150 MPH Club to learn and gain the experience.  Then make the necessary safety upgrades and go class racing with it.  Ultimate long term goal is that set-up with a Procharger and intercooler and racing in the C/BMMP and maybe a dabble into the fuel class as well.

Ultimately, I just want to have fun with it, records or not.  Maybe even get the youngest daughter in the seat, as she's already expressed some interest in helping to work on it (she's 9). 

Had some rule books, but, not sure where they ended up in the recent move.  Ordered my 2020 one this A.M. and will grab a 2021 copy as soon as they hit the shelves.  Been awhile since I have been in them and I don't remember for sure, but, does ride height have to be stock in the MMP class?

Thanks for the help.  Looking forward to sharing progress and talking to you all.

-Mike

[handyguy]

   Looks like there is still time to go snow play ..    STEVE

[salt27]

The S-10 differential is sufficient for the 130 and 150 club, there are some fast vehicles running those gear sets on the salt.

  Don

[MikeVanErt]

   Looks like there is still time to go snow play ..    STEVE

That's an older picture, but, definitely still snow up here in the mountains.  I spend too much time snow playing, which is another reason why the truck isn't much closer to done, haha.  Ski season will be over soon though, that'll free up some time.

-Mike

[MikeVanErt]

The S-10 differential is sufficient for the 130 and 150 club, there are some fast vehicles running those gear sets on the salt.

  Don

I had thought about seeing if the stock differential would live behind that built LQ9 for a little while as that would certainly be less cash I have to spend to get her running.  I can't remember if I have 3.42 or 3.73 gear ratio in that little rear end, but with a .67 overdrive on a 175/65/15 tire 150MPH is doable at a still relatively low 5400 RPM. 

I am just really worried about durability running behind that engine.  Going to be built very similarly to an LQ9 I read about in Hot Rod Magazine that they got 542 HP out of on the dyno.  I wouldn't be at all comfortable trying to hook that power up on a dragstrip, but, maybe a better chance of survival on the salt?

-Mike     

[MikeVanErt]

Some more pictures from recent progress.  Got the stock interior all out an gutted.  Got some rust repair to do on the floorboards where the driver seat mounts.  Once rust repair is fixed, seats, belts and dash can all go back in.  Want to paint the interior as well just haven't decided on a final color or method.  I had thought about roll-on bed liner as I got a bunch left over, but, not sure how easy that would be to keep clean on the salt.  Thoughts or opinions?

-Mike 

[MikeVanErt]

One more picture on progress.  Had a buddy help get the 4.3 and transmission out last Friday.  Waiting on my rulebook to see about lowering the truck, but, if legal, I found a good deal on Belltech 2" drop spindles I'm gonna run.  From there, going to retain the stock springs and  control arms but replace the bushings with polyurethane ones.  Sway bar will be upgraded to the 33mm bar off the Extremes/ZQ8s with polyurethane bushings and end links.  I should see my front ceramic brake pads and slotted/drilled rotors from Power Stop here any day now, as well as my KYB MonoMax shocks.  And waiting on my stimulus check to order the front manual rack and pinion conversion kit from Unisteer. 

Until then, time for more disassembly and cleaning.  Frame rails getting coated with rust encapsulator and gloss black chassis paint.

-Mike         

[MikeVanErt]

Made a bunch more progress this weekend and the front end is almost ready to be a finished roller.  Got new urethane bushings in the control arms and a new set of stock springs to support the weight of the LQ9.  Added Belltech 2" drop spindles and a 33mm sway bar with urethane bushings and end links from Nolathane.  New inner/outer wheel bearings and an OEM upgrade pad and rotor kit from Power Stop.  Swapped out the factory power steering with a bolt-in manual rack and pinion kit from Unisteer.  Topped it off with a coat of rust encapsulator paint from Eastwood and then a coat of their gloss chassis black.  Really happy with the results thus far.  Just had some supply issues with the brake pads and shocks (they sent me KYB Mono-max shocks for a 4WD, not a RWD tuck) and am waiting on those parts and the tie rods to get everything up front done chassis wise and get her back on wheels. 

Looking to move to the rear in the next few weeks.  As my fabrication ability doesn't lend itself to a coil over conversion, I am going to stick with leaf springs.  Gonna pick-up a set of Calvert Racing mono-leafs and mate them to their traction bars.  Going to use KYB Mono-max shocks out back as well to compliment the front.  Sticking with the stock rearend and drum brakes for as long as they last.  Going to do the frame under the bed with the same paints as the front.  I have two gallons of roll-on truck bed liner laying around, so, going to roll that on the undersides of the bed floor and then in the bed as well. 

Will update with more progress pictures as I move forward...       

[Stan Back]

Sounds to me you're on the right path.  That bedliner stuff is tuff and hides a lot of sins -- and keeps the rust out.  Everything sounds great to me, but what do I know (even though I own a pickup).

Keep us informed -- we can pretend like we're doing it without getting out hands dirty.

Stan

[MikeVanErt]

Sounds to me you're on the right path.  That bedliner stuff is tuff and hides a lot of sins -- and keeps the rust out.  Everything sounds great to me, but what do I know (even though I own a pickup).

Keep us informed -- we can pretend like we're doing it without getting out hands dirty.

Stan

Good to hear from someone with experience that I seem to be on the right track.  All I've ever done is autocross and a track day event, so, going in a straight line, especially on a surface like the salt, and how to set a truck up for that is new to me. 

The next conundrum for me is going to be to figure out where to put the weight in the chassis.  MMP rules allow for a 2.4" engine setback (based on my wheelbase) and I am currently debating that route.  Fitment of the motor will probably make that decision for me, but, if everything fits, I'm not real sure if the 2.4" setback is going to have negative effects on the CoG/CP as the truck runs at speed.  The other part of that decision for me is where to put items in the bed.  So far, I am going to mount the battery in the front right corner of the bed (to help offset some of the driver chunk) and the 20 gallon fuel cell centered in the bed, directly over the rear axle.  Not sure if I'm barking up the right tree with that plan either though.

     

[MikeVanErt]

Made some more progress lately, but, have been hindered quite a bit by parts shipment delays and stock levels.  Rear frame rails and rear end are painted and am only waiting on my traction bars to be able to finish the rear suspension and get the bed back on the frame.  Was able to get the bed completely covered underneath and inside the bed in some bedliner that I had lying around.  It's not a real aggressive one, but, everything is covered, so, it should provide a good amount of protection.  Once the rear suspension is done, I can get the bed back on and get the battery and fuel tank installed, and then get get the fuel system plumbed and start on the wiring harness.

[MikeVanErt]

Another photo update of progress.  The engine is mocked up to a 700R4 case and in the chassis so that I can begin getting the front end back on, accessories mounted and clearanced to fit and then wiring and plumbing everything.  Looks like everything will clear so far except for the oil pans I have.
 I did find one that will work, just have to get the cash together for it.  I jumped ahead in my process doing this, but, figured it was better than doing nothing while I wait on parts I need to finish other areas of the truck. 

[MikeVanErt]

Finally got my long awaited traction bars in this past week and was able to get the rear suspension buttoned up.  Calvert Racing Split Mono-leaf springs, low-profile traction bars, KYB Mono max shocks and a Nolothane 26mm sway bar.  Everything is cleaned and painted as well.  Going to have some friends over after work probably sometime this week to help me get the bed and bumper back on.  Then I can final mount the fuel cell and battery, battery disconnect and charging lugs and start running fuel lines and wiring.   

[MikeVanErt]

Been awhile since I have updated on progress...just haven't had a chance to recently.  Been super busy over the last couple months and have made a bunch of progress.  The bed is back on the truck, which now includes the installed fuel cell and battery.  My master disconnect switch is installed in the lower right side of the rear bumper and everything that is wired so far in the truck is wired through it.  I have also got my fuel pump, water pump, ignition, and the switches and gauges that I have currently installed (waiting on more) wired.  Inside the cab I have built my own dashboard and center console to house all of my gauges, switches and shifter.  They aren't what I would call pretty, but, it was my first time working with fiberglass, and I at least now have a mold I can use in the future to improve on.  Moving to the front of the truck, I was able to finish the manual brake conversion (first time building brake lines as well--yikes, haha) with upgraded rotors, pads and an aftermarket proportioning valve.  Front sheet metal is back on the truck as well now too.  Still waiting on my front end pieces to make it a 97 S-10 again, but, in the interim I can focus on mounting and plumbing/wiring my cooling system and fans, to include my transmission and oil coolers/fans.  Looks like the next piece I will be stuck on will be an intake manifold.  Everywhere I can find is at least a month out on single plane carb intakes for LS cathedral port heads.  Maybe longer.  Hopefully I can find one before then, but, I can always get started with mounting and modifying the current hood I have if not.  I have a homemade version of a cowl hood in my mind (always liked cowl hoods) for it.  Cheaper than buying an aftermarket one...guess we'll see how it turns out.   

[MikeVanErt]

Last update for today.  Picture of my progress on the interior.  Homemade fiberglass dashboard and center console.  Gauges are all Intellitronix digital (fuel level, voltmeter, tach, GPS speedo, water temp and oil pressure from driver to passenger side).  Shifter is a B&M Stealth Magnum Pro Stick and the switch panel is a kit I bought from JEGs, which currently has my ignition, start, fuel pump and water pump switches.  Engine fans will be on this panel as well.  Waiting on another panel that looks like it that will hold my switches for my trans/oil cooler fans as well as my torque converter lock-up.  I will have a few switches left over for future use as well.  I also have a USB port that will be installed in the console as well, so I can hook in my laptop to my ignition box and eventually the nitrous controller as well.  You can also see the homemade door panels I built in the picture.  Those are eventually going to be padded and covered in cheap vinyl.  Got a co-worker who is in the process of making me some custom 3D printed emblems for them as well.  Should look cool.  Probably unnecessary (much like the billet aluminum gauge bezel), but, I am building the truck the way I want it and using it as a project to learn and grow my skills on.  A lot of the stuff I am doing on this truck I have never done before, so, that is so far my excuse to do things that might not be necessary.  Learning a ton so far and having a bunch of fun.  Which of course has and will always be the goal of this whole project.