Author Topic: Project RailGun - Introduction  (Read 10193 times)

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Offline mgriffiths

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Project RailGun - Introduction
« on: February 11, 2021, 01:44:42 PM »
Hello,

I thought I'd post my progress on RailGun, my 500cc SC-G (sidecar) challenger.

I had no intention of building this bike, but I kept having so many ideas I just had to make it happen. I wanted to make this bike as low and as thin as possible keeping the frontal area to a minimum, and also to keep it as light as possible.

The key design aspects -

* Using the Kawasaki EX-500 engine (again), it's an over-square, DOHC 4-valve with a 6 speed gearbox. It produces decent power and great reliability.  There are more powerful 500cc engine options, namely going 2-stroke (eg. RG500), or de-stroking a modern 600cc, but to keep things economical, I decided to see how far I could push the EX500.

* Design a novel low and rigid front end.  I looked at a number of options but ended up designing a front end that was going to keep the frontal area to a minimum, but also provided excellent rigidity. It's basically built from hydraulic tubes, off the shelf shocks/springs, and CNC-milled triple tree clamps.

* Central chain drive. Most motorcycles have a chain running from the engine to the rear wheel directly, but this is very inconvenient for the riders legs/feet since they have to be "outside" of the chain putting them out in the air stream.  With this design ,the chain runs right down the center of the bike allowing my legs and feet to be completely tucked in.

* Aluminum construction. While steel construction was possible, I felt I could build it in aluminum to save a lot of weight. Weight is not the biggest factor to high speed, but rolling resistance is not trivial and in fact can be significant on salty surfaces. Also, Bonneville is basically just a long drag race, so getting up to terminal velocity before/at the speed trap is critical. Some will know that welding aluminum generally adds "weakness" since it de-tempers the aluminum, so the solution is to over-engineer the frame, and every joint with extra gussets.

* Fuel Injection. There never was a fuel injected EX500, and there are few aftermarket options, so I thought I could build a system myself. With greater flow capability and much better fuel atomization and timing, I feel a 15% gain in power is possible. This system is driven from a $15 Arduino microprocessor and so far I have the bike running fairly well.

* Fiberglass body construction. Having a decent experience with fiberglass building my first bike, I'll be going down this road again, but not for a few more months.

I have plenty of construction pictures, but here is where it started, with a wooden prototype to determine all the key dimension points

Cheers, Mike

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2021, 01:45:40 PM »
Showing the novel front end

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2021, 01:46:17 PM »
Showing the central "beam" drive

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #3 on: February 11, 2021, 01:47:05 PM »
Showing the whole bike (it's very very long)

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #4 on: February 11, 2021, 01:49:45 PM »
Showing the Fuel Injection throttle bodies, fuel rail and regulator

Online Stainless1

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2021, 02:55:54 PM »
Cool Project... it is a drag race... but the "trap" is a mile long... hard to know if you will need weight for traction till you run.  Can't wait to see the body... and see the bike on the salt.
Stainless
Red Hat 228.039, 2001, 65ci, Bockscar Lakester #1000 with a little N2O

Offline donpearsall

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #6 on: February 11, 2021, 10:34:25 PM »
That looks awesome! I like your idea on the chain drive. The frame looks heavy duty and very sturdy. Also looks like it would be easy to change to larger engines. It's going to need a lot of fiberglass!

Keep sending updates.
Don
550 hp 2003 Suzuki Hayabusa Land Speed Racer

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2021, 12:56:09 PM »
One more pic in the daylight, but from before the EFI installation.

Offline RansomT

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2021, 07:35:11 PM »
15% above OEM is about as much as you can get out of a EX500.  From my workings with them, as you start gaining above 70 wHP the block weakness shows up.

Offline gowing

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #9 on: February 12, 2021, 10:30:56 PM »
I thought I'd post my progress on RailGun, my 500cc SC-G (sidecar) challenger.
Very cool!

Offline FreakhouseCustoms

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2021, 12:09:03 PM »
Awesome! More local folks!  8-)
Which event are you going to run?
The Juggernaut: Dual-Engine Yamaha FJ2400
Watch the build on The Freakhouse Customs Channel

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2021, 12:14:35 PM »
15% above OEM is about as much as you can get out of a EX500.  From my workings with them, as you start gaining above 70 wHP the block weakness shows up.

Thanks RansomT, if you have any tips for me to keep this engine together I'd love to hear them.  I have internally braced the cylinders and have removed the magnets from the flywheel to try to push out the grenade event :)

BTW the best advice I ever received about the EX was from a Bonneville guy back at the Mojave Mile event -

Cheers, Mike

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2021, 12:15:41 PM »
Awesome! More local folks!  8-)
Which event are you going to run?

I always aim for Speedweek, and if timing allows this year I'll shoot for ElMo in the early summer/spring.

Cheers from Boulder :)

Offline Rex Schimmer

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #13 on: February 13, 2021, 08:54:53 PM »
Ditch the radiator, way to much drag, replace with a 2-3 gallon water tank and you will have plenty of coolant for a 3 mile run. It looks like you have 3 different chain drives, lots of hp loose in each chain. Typical chain drive efficiency is about 91 to 95% so at the best you would have a drive line efficiency of about 86%. You might consider using a good cog belt for the first two , engine to center line drive and then one for the center line drive with a chain for the final drive to give you easy ratio changes. Cog belts are 98%+ efficient so that would give you a drive line efficiency of around 92%. All belt drive would be 94%. Belt drives have their own challenges not just a straight switch from chain to belt.

On your front forks make the slider longer, greatly reduces the load on the bearings. If you are using plastic or bronze bearings be sure to use something like turkite which is a bronze impregnated teflon, very low friction and low "stickson". Or are you using a linear ball bearing arrangement? If so very good thinking.

Neat project, good to see some "out of the box" thinking.

Rex
« Last Edit: February 13, 2021, 08:59:32 PM by Rex Schimmer »
Rex

Not much matters and the rest doesn't matter at all.

Offline mgriffiths

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Re: Project RailGun - Introduction
« Reply #14 on: February 14, 2021, 11:17:16 AM »
Ditch the radiator, way to much drag, replace with a 2-3 gallon water tank and you will have plenty of coolant for a 3 mile run. It looks like you have 3 different chain drives, lots of hp loose in each chain. Typical chain drive efficiency is about 91 to 95% so at the best you would have a drive line efficiency of about 86%. You might consider using a good cog belt for the first two , engine to center line drive and then one for the center line drive with a chain for the final drive to give you easy ratio changes. Cog belts are 98%+ efficient so that would give you a drive line efficiency of around 92%. All belt drive would be 94%. Belt drives have their own challenges not just a straight switch from chain to belt.

On your front forks make the slider longer, greatly reduces the load on the bearings. If you are using plastic or bronze bearings be sure to use something like turkite which is a bronze impregnated teflon, very low friction and low "stickson". Or are you using a linear ball bearing arrangement? If so very good thinking.

Neat project, good to see some "out of the box" thinking.

Rex

Thanks for the thoughts and ideas Rex, I really appreciate your feedback!

I did think about going with the water tank instead of the radiator, but I think I'll consider this at the end of the process to get the last final couple of MPH out of the bike. I get the aero drag advantage but it seems logistically burdensome- You start a run with 3 gallons of cold water, but at the end of the run you now have 3 gallons of hot water, and what do you do? You can't run again until you wait for it to cool, or go back to the pits and replace it all? Anyway, to start with, I like the idea of not having to worry about it, and I can minimize the drag using NACA ducts to feed the radiator.

Thanks for the education of chains versus belt drive, and I have to admit that I wasn't aware of the efficiency numbers that you've provided. Based on your calculations the chains are 6% less efficient in total, which is very significant, so I'll take a close look at belt/cog in the future!

I am using bronze bearings in the fork sliders, which I think will be okay for what I need, but we'll see. I feel I still have to "prove" the entire design at speed at Bonneville before I make refinements like the linear bearings.

Thanks again,  :cheers:
Mike