Streamliner Design

[Stainless1]

Well if you look at my avatar that is the original Bockscar.  There is a Bockscar 2.0 build diary in here... it is a lay down car.  the body is 24x16 the canopy pops up less than 9 3/4. 
She looks pretty good without the wheels sticking out
Ran OK at SpeedWeek as well

[John Clutch]

Thanks for sharing, Stainless. Again, I set my dimensions based on the rulebook image, so Ill be reworking just a few things. Like everything lol

[SPARKY]

for visibility reason you need to think of getting the driver way more forward .. I have a lakester a my height is very similiar to yours  I am a big guy but the top of the car to top of head should be very similar

[John Clutch]

Sparky, that windscreen is 7" tall and the "hood" is V shaped between the front wheels, so total view is 10". You dont think thats enough?

[John Clutch]

Im sorry. My image doesnt really represent that detail. What you see is near the "cowl" area. It slopes down between the wheels another 1.5". 10" total view.

[ggl205]

Ran OK at SpeedWeek as well

Ah, Stainless, such modesty. First time out, Bockscar 2.0 set a new I/BFL record! Yep, she ran OK.

John

[John Clutch]

Nice!!

[jacksoni]

Similar to bearingburner when I built my liner i did a frame of PVC pipe for cockpit and other fitment issues. Thought I had plenty of space. Forgot to wear helmet (which have gotten bigger) and fire suit when sitting in the car so car was built and I couldn't get in and out safely, needed to cut the front bar and redo it. Onece at the track. Be sure you have full suit on if you go that way. Firesuit is bulky (you are getting a -20 aren't you?) and helmets take up a lot of space. Krikey, with todays rules, getting out of a door car is hard, let alone a laydown lakester or liner. You need space for fire bottles, coolant, fuel, etc etc. It gets really tight in a small liner. Give yourself space and figure everything before cutting steel. Have fun, looks good. ( I am also using snowmobile power)

[John Clutch]

Similar to bearingburner when I built my liner i did a frame of PVC pipe for cockpit and other fitment issues. Thought I had plenty of space. Forgot to wear helmet (which have gotten bigger) and fire suit when sitting in the car so car was built and I couldn't get in and out safely, needed to cut the front bar and redo it. Onece at the track. Be sure you have full suit on if you go that way. Firesuit is bulky (you are getting a -20 aren't you?) and helmets take up a lot of space. Krikey, with todays rules, getting out of a door car is hard, let alone a laydown lakester or liner. You need space for fire bottles, coolant, fuel, etc etc. It gets really tight in a small liner. Give yourself space and figure everything before cutting steel. Have fun, looks good. ( I am also using snowmobile power)

Thanks Jack. The way its designed, I have 2.5" extra between the shoulder bars and seat bucket and 1" around the helmet, including 1" padding mounted on 1/8" plate. Thats without a firesuit.  I havent given the drivetrain a lot of thought yet but what did you do for a transmission? Im thinking a Baker Drive 7 speed with a harley primary.

[jacksoni]

My liner was >35years ago (built it 1982) and had Cosworth vega engine with t10 4 speed. Current engine is 5cyl two stroke in my G/GC Nissan 240sx. We briefly thought about a CVT type drive but it wouldn't fit without serious surgery, if at all, and would not hold the power and distance with traditional belts so it was a non starter. We adapted a traditional bellhousing, clutch/flywheel and G force 5 speed to fit. My engine builder told me multiple times I needed a 6 or 7 speed with very close ratios (no such animal exists in a  RWD sorta traditional configuration that I am familiar with, until you get to the $15-20k region for trans only which is also a non starter for me). He finally relented and went on to other things to say I was doing wrong, LOL. Your 7 speed sounds good.

[RidgeRunner]

John,

     If you, or anybody else you think might drive for whatever reasons, wear bi focal eyeglasses the more reclining the driver the odds increase that a pair with just the distance prescription will be required.  Different helmet chin bar and eye port designs are major factors.  Now is the time to be planning placement for easy viewing of any instrumentation  you might want to run.

     It has been said that a job well planned is a job half done, from my limited experience I didn't plan half enough.......

     Stay safe and have fun,

                                      Ed

[John Clutch]

Thanks for the suggestion, Ed. Been meaning to get new glasses  Instrumentation would hopefully be a small display, shift light and a mechanical speedo. Figure if Im on fire and the electrical system is burned out, I dont want to take a guess at what MPH im jumping out of the car at LOL I think the display would be up in the canopy, right in front of the rollcage.

[Stan Back]

Getting the fire suit early makes good sense.  Their ratings don't expire like helmets, so the only reason for not having one from the beginning may be financial.  I always preferred the two-piece ones.  You can get the bottom on way before getting two or three back and simplify getting the rest of the gear on later.

[John Clutch]

Stan, I never ran a fuel class before so I never looked at a suit for it until right now. Even though you can not put a price on safety, I really wasnt expecting those prices lol. Im glad they dont have a expiration date. I would just have to control how many peanut butter cups I eat. 

[jacksoni]

Thanks for the suggestion, Ed. Been meaning to get new glasses  Instrumentation would hopefully be a small display, shift light and a mechanical speedo. Figure if Im on fire and the electrical system is burned out, I dont want to take a guess at what MPH im jumping out of the car at LOL I think the display would be up in the canopy, right in front of the rollcage.

Having had a blown engine at speed (260 or so) and a fire, I was well out of the car before it stopped LOL> Safety is paramount and as you say below, can't really put a price on it. Get the best stuff you can. A -20 suit is expensive and bulky. Design for it. Fuel is not a determining factor in the rules for suits, speed is. Minimum is a -15 suit anyway (>175), and small, relatively speaking, step up to a -20.  Also, with respect to cage design and getting out of the car remember that now a Hans or similar is required in all cars and definitely makes a difference getting in and out.

Also remember that all safety requirements are based on the record, not what your car is capable of. A lot of folks want to come racing with a car that will go 150 on a 250 record just for fun etc. Has to meet the 250 specs. (suit, fire bottles, etc etc)