Bockscar 2.0

[Stainless1]

Well Johnboy reminded me that I didn't really need to have body panels on to find the end of the exhaust pipe... yea I just measured from the rear exhaust mount to the end of the old pipe... 9 3/4" but hey... what's a little paint anyway, hopefully nobody ever sees that part... it is the bottom after all! 
The exhaust is in... yep I will need to add gaskets to everything but for now the end of the pipes are on hangers and the exhaust is finished.  Next up is probably put the bottom back on and put in holes for the exhaust.  I should have bungs showing up in the next several days for the O2 sensors.  I thought I had some in the drawer... well I had bungs... but they we 3/4... not 18x1.5mm. 
So for the first time since 1989 we have more than 1 exhaust pipe... we have duals!

[Stainless1]

The holes for exhaust are in the bottom of the car... yea when I took the pic I still needed to open the small pipe hole a little... as marked by the arrow and line... that is done... ... after 3 or 4 previous cut and fits... it is a PITA to take the engine panel on and off when it is on the cart... the exhaust goes in the slot on the cart... so I have to pick up the car to install and remove the engine bottom panel. A little paint touch up will be required on the frame.
Still working the wiring and plumbing, the injectors for gas are ready for pickup at Advanced Injectors... They flow matched at 375cc max and  within less than 1% over range.  They are injectors from an S2000 Honda.  For Fuel I'll use the 650cc that I used in the 1 liter.... since they were a little small for E85 on the liter.  I have some 1000cc injectors for fuel on the liter... I'll bet they will idle like crap and load up the engine... hopefully we will figure that out on the dyno.
The O2 bungs should show up in the next couple of days, then I install them and get a hole in the bottom for one of them.  The other will be dyno only and that will be done without the body panel anyway.

[Stainless1]

Set the large exhaust pipe back up to back purge.... hopefully for the last time.  Welded in a couple of O2 bungs... one for the ECU and one for the dyno.  Popped the bottom back on and then tried to install the pipe... I knew the bungs wouldn't clear the bottom, but it gave me the opportunity to mark the spots... a little drilling, smoothing and it almost fit,    A little more massage and all is well. Looks like I can use either for the ECU. 
I picked up my injectors from Kurt at Advance Injector.  They are installed and most of the fuel line is routed... My guess is I have a couple of days of wiring and exhaust gaskets install then a couple days with the computer and I might be ready to try to start it.  Of course like all loose schedules I could be off by a week or 2. 

Well my computer is acting out... pics will come later 
Here they are....

[Stainless1]

Finished up the wiring, the oil plumbing and the air plumbing today.... basically cleaned up the loose ends... put the MoTec back in.  Spun the motor to check the info from the crank, cam and all the other sensors... No oil pressure movement... but oil is flowing so it seems I have a bad oil pressure sensor.  Yep it is stuck at 17 lbs of pressure on, off doesn't matter, doesn't work.  Hooked up another sensor electrically, shows 0.  Ordered another pressure sensor.  The 3 temp sensors all agree on room temperature.
Have cam and crank signals... now I just have to tell the computer where the motor is when they occur... as soon as I figure that part out 
Might just get the thing started this weekend. 

[Stainless1]

Or not.... decided to get going on the air box... John Goodman (ggl205) had a buddy do the bend, but his shear wouldn't cut it clean... but my saw would.... John it bringing another bend to finish the box tomorrow
I think I will rivet the channel for the filter in with a little RTV to seal the dirty from clean side.
I welded the seams on the ends and the tubes... did I mention aluminum welding is a pain....
But it all fits... so far
I think I need at least one bolt at the top holding the box in place... to go with the 2 I have... might reduce the vibration a little

[Stainless1]

Airbox getting closer... John bent a piece and I got it welded to the box.  The filter channel is located and now glued (RTV) in place.  Still deciding if I'll rivet or use screws and nuts.
Have some ideas for a lid

[kiwi belly tank]

Aluminum rivnut's Mate!
  Sid.

[Stainless1]

Sid, I'm looking at those for the lid but having issues finding them in countersunk...
I used #6 countersunk stainless screws and nylocks for the channels... the clecos were just holding the channels while the RTV dried.

[Rex Schimmer]

I am not a rivnut fan and I have use plenty of them. If it is a part that is removed quite often then I will guarantee you that the rivnut will eventually start spinning in its hole. I prefer the aircraft style nut plates that have a floating nut, that is also a deformed thread lock nut. Typically installed with 3/32 dia rivets and you can counter sink the hole. If you do use rivnuts I have found that if you do NOT debur the hole the burrs around the hole will help the insert to not rotate (at least not right away). Aircraft Spruce for nut plates.

Rex

[manta22]

I am not a rivnut fan and I have use plenty of them. If it is a part that is removed quite often then I will guarantee you that the rivnut will eventually start spinning in its hole. I prefer the aircraft style nut plates that have a floating nut, that is also a deformed thread lock nut. Typically installed with 3/32 dia rivets and you can counter sink the hole. If you do use rivnuts I have found that if you do NOT debur the hole the burrs around the hole will help the insert to not rotate (at least not right away). Aircraft Spruce for nut plates.

Rex

True! A nutplate is a far better option... if you have access to the rear of the panel.

[Stainless1]

I have nutplates... and we've used some rivnuts in the past... but I saw there are some that are a little like a hi-loc nut, except reusable... has a crush component... but I don't have or need the tool for those so I think I might put in camlocks like we used everywhere on the old Bockscar skin.
I have a lot of those...

[Stainless1]

CamLocks it is... Three of them are self retaining... but the last has to be removable so the lid will go on and off. Now the box is ready for the throttle cable mount. 

When I started on this box, I reversed the old mount for more room.  That moved the voltage regulator and MAP sensor to the other side since it was already mounted on the through holes... the air box on one side, the Reg and MAP on the other. 
Minor issue... that physics thing about 2 items occupying the same space jumped up. 
The CO2 bottle valve resides in part of that space... it is not relocatable... but the other stuff just needs to move up a little... to be out of the way.

[Stainless1]

Remember when I mentioned I had to figure out where the triggers were and their relationships... Well I've been doing that.... The relationship seemed to be moving.  Then I found the setting for trigger levels and found the cam level set to 0v... set that one to .5 and now everything is consistent. 
This motor does not have an external trigger wheel so I set timing with the notch and line in the window while cranking. 
And then it fired up when I connected everything.... have a little oil leak that looks like it could be valve cover... and then the fuel pressure sensor quit.  It is idling a bit rich, but goes way lean when I open the throttle... fuel mapping is next... get it to run and rev, then it is ready for the dyno. 

[Stainless1]

Well today the timing moved again...  Sent a note and a bunch of data to MoTec asking what I'm doing wrong... I'm sure it is something simple, but unless the gremlins are sneaking in at night... 
While Johnboy was here I told him we needed a canopy substitute... the canopy has the oil pressure and neutral light in it.  So he put most of this together before he left.  I threw a connector on it so it plugs where the canopy did.  The big red light makes it easy for me to see when I've inadvertently  left the switch on... Yea maybe I should have rounded the corners for him... This will be handy on the dyno...

[Stainless1]

OK I think I found it... it's not gremlins... well maybe an old tall one... 
While going through all the setup's I guess when I moved the ref and sync triggers to rising I moved the ignition trigger to rising as well... I'm using D585 LS coils and they trigger with a falling signal.   Changed it back after looking back at the original 1 liter set up I started with and now timing is stable. I will check it again tomorrow, but I think I'm good... but of course I told myself that it was good several times now.
Easter Brunch tomorrow that may entail bloody marys and/or beer... might not get it on the dyno to play.