advance planing for water on the salt

[hotrod]

Just curious regarding tips the old hands may have regarding planing for those occasions like this years WOS where you end up with water on the salt.

In this years case, I understand that max water depth in the pit area was around 1" or so.  When we got to the end of the road the water just off the ramp was 5 -6 " deep but that seems to be the only deep water area from what I've heard so far.

Historically what is the deepest water level you folks are aware of on the salt flats proper due to wind blown water or rain storms?

My thinking is it takes a huge amount of water to increase the depth much over such a large surface area, so my guess is that during Speed Weeks, WOS or WF, the maximum water depth in the pit areas would be just a couple inches or so.

With that in mind, what precautions do people take when there is a chance that a wash out is possible. I recall seeing several pictures of cars on the salt on jack stands and such to wait out wind blown water.

Obviously picking up your gear at the end of the day will help, but for things you can't easily pick up and store on a trailer and such, how much "elevation" would you think a reasonable plan?

A set of pull on rubber boots (over shoes) in your car that you drive out to the salt, would obviously be on the list if you need to slosh around picking up your gear for a rain out.

Putting the car up on ramps or jack stands etc. would be good idea if you expect a brief rain episode. If there is a likelihood of a full rain out I suspect the plan of choice would be to run the car up on the trailer before you leave the pits for the night. Or if it was a high probability, even trailer the car off the salt.


Larry

[AJR192]

Nothing quite like pulling up a 20 foot ground tarp submerged under salt water. Pre planning is essential. Watch the weather reports religiously, they are pretty accurate,at least they were at WOS. If the forecast calls for bad weather, arranging your stuff in the trailer beforehand is a big, big help. Anything that could be damaged by water should be stored either on a table or in /on the trailer. An extra tarp or two is a very good idea and cheap insurance. Overshoes is actually a good idea, But I don't recall seeing anyone wearing them. usually the deepest water you will see is just where you said, right off the pavement. And yes it can get quite deep. A standing inch or two is probably about the most I can ever remember seeing in the pits. Being prepared for as many circumstances you can think of is what makes the meet go more smoothly for you.

[CTSaltV]

Nothing quite like pulling up a 20 foot ground tarp submerged under salt water.

Oh boy, that's true.  My tarp was screwed down to the salt with #8 3" long deck screws.  If I had left that down that night I would of been up salt creek without a paddle.  I can't imagine if the water were any higher than 1" that I would have been able to use my battery powered drill to unscrew the tarp.  I better bring a longer phillips bit next year

[Glen]

I have seen 6" or more water at the 7 mile and beyond in years past.
At the end of the road it is the deepest due to the dam effect of the raised road. The wind if strong enough can blow it away and back the next day. Yeah'You need to be prepared for anything on the salt.  

[edweldon]

If you think watching grass grow is a bore try watching salt brine evaporate.
Bring a reserve of patience.  For use while you're driving through the salt water.  Washing all the wiring under the hood with salt brine is not a good plan.  Any water leakage path to ground no matter how long will short out the high voltage.
A cheap pair of tennis shoes, especially the slip-on kind, are great for walking around in the salt water.  Rinse them in fresh water and they'll be dry in an hour in the desert sun.
Remember that not every day thunderstorms are predicted do they hit the event area.  When it's certain one will hit you have maybe 10-15 minutes to get ready.  First thing to deal with is potential of a 50-70 knot wind. No sun shade can handle that.  Think about this before you spend a lot of resources on a tarp setup.  By the time you're battened down the wind is rising fast and a combination of rain and wind blown salt is cutting away painfully at your ankles.  At that point it is very easy to say "leave the ground cloth for tomorrow" and tell yourself there's nothing on the car that can't be fixed with a good washing (you can say that, can't you?) and grab whatever ride you can off the Salt.
Hint....everything electrical on the car, unless it's inside a pretty stock door slammer ought to be protected the same way you'd protect things on an  open deep sea fishing boat.  Ditto for all breathers on engine, etc.  Get yourself a West Marine catalog (they're free) and stick it in the bathroom for a couple of weeks.
Ed Weldon

[jimmy six]

Remember one more thing. The cars and tucks of today have so much electronics on them it would be hard to find any problem when that "check engine" light comes on, soooooo SLOW DOWN and don't spash anyone...

[Freud]

I know. You pull your trailer with your dualie pickup. U gotta have it. Your whole program swivels around it.
You also have to have a chase car.

I have several questions.
How much does a brake job cost on your vehicle?
What will a new exhaust system cost?
How long did you wait trying to decide what car to buy because you plan to keep it for a long time?

If you rent a car in SLC the tax is 25%...still paying for the Olympics of the past. They are death on a rental return that is caked in salt. The penalty is severe. As long as nothing shows, they don't care. Soaked wiring is no problem to them. There are good car washes between Wendover and SLC airport where u return your car. Start with 20 quarters and get a few more if needed.

Anything that you can rent and return while your own car is high and dry is a very good bargain. Herpes and salt water corrosion are with you forever. Try to avoid both if possible.

Renting someone elses transportation is money well spent. Drive thru 5 miles of 6" deep salt water to get to the pits to recover your equipment is 10 miles by the time you get back on dry ground. Running your V-8 on 6 cyls will load your catalytic converter to the point it will get so hot that it will snap, crackle and pop for 45 minutes after you stop. (That won't happen if you drive 5 MPH but just try spending an hour getting from the end of the road to your pit site. You are a racer and don't have that type of restraint.)  It can also lead to difficulty in starting with wet wiring.  The salt crystals immediately below the converter make marvelous art studies as the sun sets and the pastel shades combine with the low angle shadows in your fotos.
Unprotected sex and driving thru water on the salt can have unpredictable consequences. You can rent a car so maybe driving thru the salt water is the smaller risk. It's someone elses piece that you are returning when you rent. Another thing: cars don't talk....unless they have a GPS installed.

Mechanical problems are something you are capable of solving. That goes with racing. Weather related problems are the area of your least expertise. Just plan for a hurricane and you will be as prepared as possible.

If you see other person's hair standing straight up, dark clouds in the sky and wind coming up, get in the car and don't get out until the lightening storm blows over. The BLM flag pole at the end of the asphalt looked like coiled celery strings after it took a direct hit from a lightning bolt.

Look at the still fotos from the movie set when they filmed "Fastest Injun" and you will have an idea what can happen out there when it really rains.

At home, we buy home owners insurance. Rental cars and trucks are your insurance policies on the salt. Don't forget the trailer. They will melt down in 4 years without dedicated cleaning. There is no vaccination for salt pox.

I know. 2006 was no problem during scheduled meets but you can't be certain that every year will mirror 2006.

Been there, been wet, been happy for my rentals but still been late getting home,


FREUD

[Stainless1]

put your stuff in plastic tubs with snap on lids, but put something heavy on them every night, just in case...
buy cheap, reasonably sized plastic tarps, use screws or the really big nails, tarp will fit nicely in the furnished dumpster, wet or dry, although when wet, plan to wear a little water, right Jon...[/b]

[jimmy six]

Stainless is right on. Throw away your bottom tarp every year is what
I do. Top one year, bottom the next; then thrown out.

Every one is different and some don't care as they trade in often,  but here is my truck prep. I normally have 6 mud flaps the rear has 2 sets one behind the tire and an extra one hanging on the bottom of the rear bumper.

The front ones are very important. They are wide enough to encroach onto the inner fender well. This keeps unwanted salt off the transmission when turning. There a electonic plugins on our trannys these days.

I found a kit from JC Whitney which protects against mud for off roaders. The kit had bendable hard plastic or vinyl parts. I had to fit them on my front because they were 4 wheel drive but they really work great for protection. The rear attached to the bottom of the bed. They were about 4 feet long and went down from the bed and protect the springs/shocks and rear end. They went in with plastic push in rivets which I doubled.

Glen got me trying Salt X and Keith Allen sprays everything with cheap floor polish from resturant supply stores and all of it works great. Coat everything heavy. Keith has also added plastic/vinyl protectors to the front od his wheel wells keeping salt from the front bumper area.

One last thing for you open wheel guys. I also made some flaps which cover the front of my head lights and part of the front of my grille. They attach under the hood and when it's down they don't move. When the car pulls away a lot of salt is throw up and pushing one back the return road can dump a lot of salt arround the heads light area you just about can't get out.

Good Luck

[JackD]

Don't buy a tow vehicle from anybody that has ever been to the Salt.
Don't sell yours to anybody you know.
If you have suitable replacement insurance, let perspective buyers test drive
 it unescorted and you might get lucky.

[1212FBGS]

I just rent Penske trucks and give 'em back!
kr

[Seldom Seen Slim]

tarp will fit nicely in the furnished dumpster, wet or dry, although when wet, plan to wear a little water, right Jon...[/b]

You saw that, hey?  We were following JD's advice -- our tarp was fine last year, worn but useable this year, and in the dumpster when we left WoS.  Yes, I did have to stop and wash my hands and other parts after getting salt spew on me from trying to lift the wet, heavy, sticky, salty tarp -- but it's in the dumpster and we'll have a new one in '07.  We had unscrewed it from the salt and dragged it across the pits, hoping some of the water would come off.  Some -- but not all, did.  The rest ended up on me.

I use at least 16 or 20 6-7" 1/4" lag bolts with 1 1/2" stainless fender washers to hold down the 15 x 20-foot tarp, and the 7/16" head on the bolts makes it a little easier to install/remove than trying to move the needed torque through a Phillips head.  Bring a battery charger for the portable drill -- you'll discharge the battery pretty well doing all those fasteners in the hard salt/mud.

[RichFox]

I have 4 one pound coffey cans that I filled with lead after fixing a steel tube in the center. The uprights for my overhead tarp fit into these tubes. I don't make holes in my tarp on purpose, but do sometimes anyway. When it's time to leave I pick up everything and go home. I hose the tarp off in my driveway after I get home. Had the same tarp since I don't remember when. I guess you could use concret instead of lead, but the lead was handy. Spell check not working

[Seldom Seen Slim]

First time at Bonneville I tried hodling down the corners of the tarp.  Strong (as usual) winds got under the mid-sections and lifted and tugged and tore the tarp.  That's why I use four or five hold downs per side of the tarp.  I put the bolts through the grommets -- they still tear out, but not quite so often.  When leaving for the evening I now put heavy stuff -- the little trailer we use to transport the bikes to start/from shutdown, for instance -- in the middle of the tarp so the wind can't get under it so much.  This helps -- but we've found the trailerette moved a few feet after a windy night.

As for heavy stuff holding down the awning -- last year at a Maxton meet the registration awning was held up by poles in two-gallon (or so) buckets of concrete, with tie-downs holding the tarp to the buckets.  The wind gusted -- and the buckets went flying, catapulted into the field behind registration.  OWWW!  That'd hurt if it hit me on the head.  I think I'll stick with bolts into the salt.  At Maxton we pit on concrete -- but fortunately the 'crete is so old and cracked that there are plenty of places to get a bolt in...

[RichFox]

I don't think anything will save the overhead tarp if the wind wants it and it's up there to be had. At night I usually leave a roadster in the middle of my ground cover to hold it down. I left the Vega out of gear once and it blew away. Had to drive around the pits and look for it. But my silver ground tarp has stuck with me for some time now.