Steady, Straight, WOT

[Mr. Schimstock]

In an effort to remove some losses I decided to replace the quick change with a single reduction GM axle.   I was able to find the 2.14, 2.28, and 2.41 ratios along with a posi carrier.   This will allow me to go with 28" tires rather than the big shaved down Dunlops I ran originally.  To get around the axle C-clip issue it machined a set of Grand National style spindles to fit the GM axle tubes from from cold rolled 8620.  This allows me to use the brakes and hubs from the quick change.  I also like the full floater style axles.

[Mr. Schimstock]

Pic of the spindle in the tubes ready to be welded.

[71GSSDemon]

Just read through your whole build.  Thank you for sharing.  I am still working on my car for CGALT.  Where in WI are you?  I am outside of Fond du Lac.  It would be great to meet some of you in WI and BS, bench race, ask questions, etc. 

Eric

[Rex Schimmer]

Nice job on the spindles!!! What type of bearing are you planning to use? I did full floating hubs on a early Ford rear end with a Hildebrand quicky for my little track roadster a few years ago and bought the complete set up from Cole3man Bros Racing. You obviously had some 8620 laying around and some time. Again, nice job!

Rex

[Mr. Schimstock]

Nice job on the spindles!!! What type of bearing are you planning to use? I did full floating hubs on a early Ford rear end with a Hildebrand quicky for my little track roadster a few years ago and bought the complete set up from Cole3man Bros Racing. You obviously had some 8620 laying around and some time. Again, nice job!

Rex

Using Timken tapered roller bearings.  Same ones the circle track guys run. 

I tried to just buy as set but could not find anyone making them for the 2-5/8" axle tubes.  Best option I could come up with was making my own.  Wasn't too bad machining them.  Scary part was the threading. I'm not great at it but got the job done. 

I picked 8620 to get some strength and still be easily welded.  4140 and 4340 really needs some pre and post heat to be welded correctly.

[Mr. Schimstock]

Just read through your whole build.  Thank you for sharing.  I am still working on my car for CGALT.  Where in WI are you?  I am outside of Fond du Lac.  It would be great to meet some of you in WI and BS, bench race, ask questions, etc. 

Eric

North of you by about an hour.  Little town called Redgranite.

[jimmy six]

My opinion only... If you are looking to eliminate rolling resistance....ALL Timken style bearings should be removed.

[manta22]

My opinion only... If you are looking to eliminate rolling resistance....ALL Timken style bearings should be removed.

Generic name= "tapered roller bearings"

[Mr. Schimstock]

My opinion only... If you are looking to eliminate rolling resistance....ALL Timken style bearings should be removed.

I agree.  That's on a list for future upgrades/changes but more than I wanted to take on right now.

[Rex Schimmer]

Jimmy is right!! Tapered roller bearings have a lot of drag compared to a good ball bearing. If you really want to go high buck then ceramic ball bearings are the trick. $$$$! but very low drag. Free(?) horsepower.
On the tapered roller bearings be sure to use very low, if any, pre-load as they will get hot, expand and weld themselves together, voice of experience.

Rex

[71GSSDemon]

Just read through your whole build.  Thank you for sharing.  I am still working on my car for CGALT.  Where in WI are you?  I am outside of Fond du Lac.  It would be great to meet some of you in WI and BS, bench race, ask questions, etc. 

Eric

North of you by about an hour.  Little town called Redgranite.

That's not far at all.  Been thru there many times.  It would be very cool to meet you and see the car sometime. 

[Mr. Schimstock]

Jimmy is right!! Tapered roller bearings have a lot of drag compared to a good ball bearing. If you really want to go high buck then ceramic ball bearings are the trick. $$$$! but very low drag. Free(?) horsepower.
On the tapered roller bearings be sure to use very low, if any, pre-load as they will get hot, expand and weld themselves together, voice of experience.

Rex

Thanks for the input.  Much appreciated.  I usually run them just out of preload but not enough endplay to show up as wheel wobble. 

What are you guys running for grease?

[kiwi belly tank]

Diff oil level is your lubricant M8.
  Sid.

[Mr. Schimstock]

Wasn't thinking like that Sid.  The Quickchange didn't pump any oil into the wheel end area.  The GM 7.5 will likely though given the way it is designed.   I'll have to keep an eye on it and see how much oil gets pushed out there.

[SPARKY]

5-20 syth. motor oil is what i run in my 7.5 900+ hp