1960 Dodge Dart Phoenix

[Polyhead]

How did the points look ....... Maybe it was just a matter or remaking a connection that was slightly corroded.

Well it had been sitting for 3 months, so, that's probably the case.  Removing the electronics and having the points carry real load and real voltage would mean a stronger signal and therefore ignition that works.  You're probably spot on with that.  They looked better than the mouse that refused to be evicted!  He got bashed in the head with a 9/16ths, not pretty.

But lets face it, ideally I would be using a magnetic or optical triggered system.  But lately there are a lot of choices for chrysler products since mopar performance quit making their electronic ignition conversion kits.  MSD Billet goodies, HEI style systems, and of course, magnetos.  I like the idea of a magneto but, i'm sure more modern technology is both more reliable and more powerful.  Cheaper as well.

[Indy]

It will be easier to find replacement parts if needed if you are
running MSD. O'Reilly carries MSD, so that's always a plus. Hope-
fully they are in Utah/Nevada area.

Most people are running MSD AL?. I just don't have the extra
room for such a setup in my TBucket. But I do have an AEM
AQ-1 data acquisition system to measure several inputs like
TPS, MAP, Acceleration, and AFR .....etc. Sure helped me tune
the Demon carburetor.

Good Luck!


Rick Miller

[Polyhead]

One of the many issues with polyheads is lack of gasket kits if you want anything other than OEM style.  The OEM intake manifold gasket is steel.  These are known to crack aluminum intakes (so I'm told.)  Not wanting to risk a rather rare and expensive aluminum intake I decided to make my own composite gaskets since you can't buy them.  (well you can but chrysler power want way too much for them and they don't come with foam end seals anyway.)

I got a late start, spent too much time working on camera stuff.  But so far I'm  happy with the results.  The Harbor Freight hollow punch set seems to work reasonably ok in this application.  I've used the metal gasket as a pattern.  Only time will tell if this is a good idea or not.

[t-rod]

I used that same gasket material to make a supercharger to manifold gasket for my B&M blower, hasn't leaked yet. I'm guessing you'll be fine.

[wobblywalrus]

Is that engine a Mopar 273, 318,340, or 360?

[gearheadeh]

Is that engine a Mopar 273, 318,340, or 360?

Wobbly, it is the grandfather to those, the Poly 318

 Very nice work on the gasket, how much to have you make me a set or 2?

[Polyhead]

Is that engine a Mopar 273, 318,340, or 360?

Wobbly, it is the grandfather to those, the Poly 318

 Very nice work on the gasket, how much to have you make me a set or 2?

I would never do it for money, but I would do it for beer!  I should get a shot of those gaskets now that they are totally finished.  They came out pretty slick.  My only worry is that they may be a little on the thick side.  I think I'll be just fine though.

The project is stalled a bit right now as I have to take care of some other things with my money and time.  I've come up with a set of brackets to convert the car to an alternator, so getting rid of the generator setup and reworking the wiring harness for an althernator is the next project.

[Mr. Schimstock]

Ditch the alt/gen all together.  You should be able to run on just the battery for the length of the course. 

Just one less parasitic loss on the engine.

[Polyhead]

Ditch the alt/gen all together.  You should be able to run on just the battery for the length of the course. 

Just one less parasitic loss on the engine.

This car pulls double duty as a street car though.  of sorts... it's a little loud inside.

[gearheadeh]

Is that engine a Mopar 273, 318,340, or 360?

Wobbly, it is the grandfather to those, the Poly 318

 Very nice work on the gasket, how much to have you make me a set or 2?

I would never do it for money, but I would do it for beer!  I should get a shot of those gaskets now that they are totally finished.  They came out pretty slick.  My only worry is that they may be a little on the thick side.  I think I'll be just fine though.

The project is stalled a bit right now as I have to take care of some other things with my money and time.  I've come up with a set of brackets to convert the car to an alternator, so getting rid of the generator setup and reworking the wiring harness for an althernator is the next project.

Cool, however not too likely that I would be down that way anytime soon,  Nice work though   

[Polyhead]

Hmm so... maybe the alternator swap needs to happen sooner than later.  I broke my word and fiddled with the car on saturday anyway.  Charging system failure.  Bypassing the exciter output end of the voltage regulator did result in a generator that made power.  Looks like I get to rip the voltage regulator apart, again... or hurry up and swap that crap out of there.

I'm kind of dragging my feet on this because I want to go blown with the car via a paxton setup.  Now the small block mopar paxton bracket has an alternator bracket built onto it.  Everything looks like it'll fit the poly with a few modifications. The biggest concern is header clearences.  Well, since I haven't started on the headers yet anyway, I was going to get all that crap in the car then build headers around that junk rather than try to fit that junk around the headers.  But... the car is really starting to force my  hand on this issue.  I should probably just take the easy/cheap way out and put in a GM style one wire setup in it... but it makes me feel dirty.

[wobblywalrus]

Ben, this is a link to something that might be adaptofitted to the dart.www.paxtonauto.com/product.php?id=127

[RidgeRunner]

Ben

     Flip side of the cheap/easy one wire installations is they take the voltage signal from the alternator output and don't compensate for any voltage drops between the alternator and end use points.  If you think you might be using any electronic engine controls in the future you should consider a self regulated set up that runs a voltage sensor/signal wire from the point of use back to the alternator. 'tronic stuff can act real weird real fast at anything less than 100% full voltage.  Been there..........

          Ed

[Polyhead]

Ben

     Flip side of the cheap/easy one wire installations is they take the voltage signal from the alternator output and don't compensate for any voltage drops between the alternator and end use points.  If you think you might be using any electronic engine controls in the future you should consider a self regulated set up that runs a voltage sensor/signal wire from the point of use back to the alternator. 'tronic stuff can act real weird real fast at anything less than 100% full voltage.  Been there..........

          Ed

Well, and that's why i'm loathe to do it.  I realize that.  Yeah I should just swap in an OEM chrysler setup.  Really all I need to make that work is the bracket from a polyhead with an alternator, and then cut the generator mount from the exaughst manifold.  Early polyheads like mine have the generator mount on the exaughst manifold.  Of course something similar is needed to put headers on the car.  I'll just have to hit some junk yards and see what turns up.

[Polyhead]

Ben, this is a link to something that might be adaptofitted to the dart.www.paxtonauto.com/product.php?id=127

That's what I was already talking about.  Note the location of the alternator.  it's mounted to the super charger bracket.  It shoudl solve several problems.  to go that route.