Belly Tank Build Diary

[manta22]

They fully welded the center in place and enlarged the pilot diameter for the hub.  I added the Dzus tabs for the MOON discs.  All that is needed now is 5/8" holes for the metal valve stems and a pair of 205/55ZR17 tires with a "Y" rating.  The tires will be almost an inch wider than the M&H front runners but this was the narrowest tire that I could find that is almost 26" tall for my car.  Tech at the Texas Mile requires "Y" rated DOT tires to compete.

Race tires are illegal?

[Mike Brown]

They will only allow radial tires.  No bias belted tires and no drag race tires, radial or DOT rated.  Tech approved a Hoosier radial slick for the rear that was classed as circuit racing.  The narrowest tire that was tall enough and approved was the Michelin 205/55ZR27 for the front.

[manta22]

Thanks, Mike. Now I understand.

[Mike Brown]

I really liked having the thermometer on the intercooler tank.  It allowed me to see the temperature at quick glance.  I was concerned about installing a thermometer using the same methodology in the engine water cooling tank.  That tank is pressurized and I was concerned about the pressure forcing the thermometer out creating a water leak.  If the compression fitting was installed too tight it would crush the thermometer stem causing it to not work properly.  I decided to create a "well" that the stem of the thermometer would go into that could be sealed tight against the pressure.  I used 3/16" brass tube with a plug soldered into one end.  On the opposite end I machined a replacement for a 3/8-16 bolt that held the radiator cap to the tank.  One end has 3/8-16 threads the other end a spigot (3/8-24) for an 1/8" compression fitting.  I then machined a plastic compression ferrule to secure the thermometer into the fitting.  I will use either a heat sink compound or a tiny bit of glycerin to conduct the heat from the brass tube to the thermometer stem. 

[Mike Brown]

A photo of the thermometer installed.  I can still get the radiator cap off to check the water level but by removing the compression fitting nut the thermometer is easily removed giving full access.  Now I have a thermometer with much less chance of ever having a leak. 

[Jack Gifford]

Good thinking.

[Mike Brown]

Very little of my thoughts are original, somebody smarter has already been there done that.  I found out from a friend that this methodology for mounting a thermometer, RTD or other sensor is called a "thermowell".  Googled it and came up with all kinds of these devices commercially available.  Mine was just custom made to replace a bolt in the lakester. 

[bearingburner]

Used thermo wells extensively back when I was in industry

[Mike Brown]

Inspection of the front wheel bearings during service revealed some marks on the bearing races.  I don't believe that it reached the point of brinnelling as there was no discernable notchiness in the rotation of the hub but I will replace the races and the bearings.  I suspect that this happened while the car was being trailered. 

[handyguy]

   I USE LUCAS 7.5 WT. RACING GEAR OIL IN DIFF AND FRT. AND REAR WHL. BRGS.  .. THE '37 ENGLISH AUSTIN  4 SPD. CLOSE RATIO TRANS.  GETS 30 WT. ENG. OIL ..  STEVE

[wobblywalrus]

Crocus cloth looks like emery cloth except that it has a coating of iron oxide rather than grit.  It can be used to polish up those races without the fear of abrading away the hardening.  The races might be stained and not damaged.   

[Mike Brown]

I purchased the entire front end from Speedway Motors.  They specified Ford spindles with Chevy rotors and an adapter kit.  The bearings and races came in the kit.  Of all the parts that I purchased for this project I was the least satisfied with those from Speedway.  The bearings were all marked "China" so I chose to order Timken bearings and races made in the USA. 

[Stainless1]

Good Plan...   

[jimmy six]

I shit canned all the Timken style tapered bearings on my LSR race cars 45 years ago even on the Ford spindles.. too much drag. Oops gave out a ?secret?

[Mike Brown]

I shit canned all the Timken style tapered bearings on my LSR race cars 45 years ago even on the Ford spindles.. too much drag. Oops gave out a ?secret?

All the "secrets" that come out on this forum is one reason that I like it so much.  I don't know how much impact reducing chassis/drive train drag has on mile land speed events but I am interested.  Do you run straight ball bearings or angular contact ball bearings?