2 Batteries -- Main Disconnect.........

[Sumner]

We plan on putting a second battery in Hooley's Stude this year that will be only for the wide band O2 sensor controller and a data recorder (LM-1 & Aux-Box).  It will probably be another car type battery, but might be a bike battery.  

The battery won't be in the driver's compartment and there will be a fused single 10 or 12 gauge wire from it to the LM-1 and Aux-Box that, are in the driver's compartment.

The rules say:

All vehicles must be equipped with a main battery disconnect switch

Does our secondary battery have to have a disconnect?

We plane on running a relay off the main battery that would control (switch) the wire from the secondary battery to the LM-1 and Data recorder.  If the main battery disconnect was activated then the relay would open the circuit from the secondary battery to the LM-1.  Do we need the relay or a mechanical means of turning off the secondary battery?

Thanks and c ya,

Sum

[jackson]

Sum, why do you need a second battery for the LM1?  Are you getting too much noise from the main battery?  Just curious, I'm running a LM1 also.

[Sumner]

Sum, why do you need a second battery for the LM1?  Are you getting too much noise from the main battery?  Just curious, I'm running a LM1 also.

The car is running a mag, which did give us a lot of problems last year as we weren't running suppressor wires.  Now that seems to be ok.  There is no charging system on the car, so it is running total loss.  The main drag on the battery other than the starter starting the car is the elect. water pump.

I just want to make sure the LM-1 and Aux-box are getting a good clean 12 volts.   Last year we had just the LM-1 and it recorded fine, but you have to make sure you remember to push the "record" button after the car is started since it can reset during the low voltage at cranking.  The other thing is if we got to the line and had a hard time starting and ran the battery down, but got started the LM-1 might not be getting 12 volts during the run.  I don't think the water pump cares.

It is just a little more insurance.  So few runs. So much money invested. Want to make sure we collect the data we now are able to collect with the LM-1 (air/fuel) and the Aux-box (rpm, boost, egt, TPS, acceleration) and not take a chance on not collecting it.

Hooley is paying me "BIG MONEY" to worry about this stuff .

Are you running an aux-box or rpm?

c ya, Sum

[jackson]

I'm running the RPM converter and the inductive pick-up on the mag.  I've only tried it once, but I couldn't get the rpm signal and the O2 signal had lots of noise.  I would have tried to daignose the problem but I didn't get a chance to download the data until today.

[landracing]

I would consider using a rechargable 18v or 24v drill battery. I know there are several teams out there that use this for their data recorders only. Solves the problems of adding a second car battery, and easy to get to. They charge it ONCE per season... Got an extra one laying around that belongs to a drill?

Jon

[Sumner]

I'm running the RPM converter and the inductive pick-up on the mag.  I've only tried it once, but I couldn't get the rpm signal and the O2 signal had lots of noise.  I would have tried to daignose the problem but I didn't get a chance to download the data until today.

Are you running solid core wires with the mag.  If so they won't work, at least not for us.  You will get such a noisy signal like you described it will look like big lean spikes.  What kind of mag?  We got an Autometer box to convert the mag signal to a normal tach signal, but the one time Hooley tried that so far it didn't work.  That is the last thing we have to get working.  Let me know if you can get the inductive clamp working.  I didn't think it would for some reason, but have forgotten why.

I guess you know you can input up to 4 more 0-5 volt inputs to your system.  We used a TPS last year and that helps to know at what throttle settings you are at for the air/fuel ratios.  I show how I made one ( HERE  ).  This one is moveable from vehicle to vehicle.  When Hooley got here last summer I made a bracket that mounted just the TPS part directly to the injector linkage.

I would consider using a rechargable 18v or 24v drill battery. I know there are several teams out there that use this for their data recorders only. Solves the problems of adding a second car battery, and easy to get to. They charge it ONCE per season... Got an extra one laying around that belongs to a drill?

Jon

Thanks Jon I might be able to do that with a 14.4 volt one .  I think I saw the other day that the LM-1 is protected from voltage spikes , but is not designed to operate over 15-16 volts.  Did you sell yours (LM-1 and aux-box)?  I PM'ed you about what you were asking for it.  Let me know if you still have it and what you want for it.

c ya, Sum

[Sumner]

I would consider using a rechargable 18v or 24v drill battery. I know there are several teams out there that use this for their data recorders only. Solves the problems of adding a second car battery, and easy to get to. They charge it ONCE per season... Got an extra one laying around that belongs to a drill?

Jon

Hey Jon, good idea.  I asked about the higher voltages on Innovate's site and got this back.

Hi,

Yes, a 14.4 drill battery will work. I've done that. I had an old cordless drill that died. I cut off the part where the battery slides in and bolted it to the back of my LM-1. It's REALLY portable now  .

Regards,
Klaus

I have some of the 14 volt batteries, so we just might try that.

Thanks,

Sum

[Dean Los Angeles]

I'm using a battery that I got from McMaster-Carr industrial supplies
http://www.mcmaster.com/
On page 814 they have sealed 12v lead acid batteries from 2.0 x 3.8 x 1.7 at 70ma for $16.39 and on up from there.

The battery is square and has terminals which makes it easier than trying to attach wires and mount the drill battery.

The main disconnect is in case of an accident and fire. Any energy source is a potential problem. Even on a small battery the wires could be cut and short causing a fire. I would provide a visible disconnect.

[Bow]

Hey Sum...

Go to Radio Shack and pickup one of these babies:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062120&cp=&pg=2&origkw=12V+battery&kw=12v+battery&parentPage=search

12V 5000mAh Rechargeable Lead Acid Battery - $28.99
Sealed Lead Acid

Dimensions
Product Length       2.75    
Product Height       4.09    
Product Width       3.54      
Product Weight       3.8  pounds

That will probably run you entire system for every run for the entire Speed Week without a recharge.