Springfield Flyer.

[wobblywalrus]

Mike, a while back I tried to form a PC windshield. It is hard to get it correct and I learned that you are doing the right thing.  That is to have an expert do it with formless methods.  That is what I eventually did.

These windshields never come out exactly as planned based on my experience and what other have told me.  One thing I will do in the future is to not build the part of the fairing around the shield until I have it on hand.  This way, it will be a perfect fit when all is done.  I also ordered two of them, just in case.

[Elmo Rodge]

I had mine formed by Aircraft Windshield in Los Alamitos, California using my mold. It came out perfect.  Wayno

[tauruck]

The guy here that does it is a nasty person.

You'd swear he was paying me so I gave him a miss.
I don't know how he gets work with his attitude.

I'll do my own blow mold and if it takes a few or four attempts so be it.
I'll learn something at least.

You guys are lucky in that you can pick and choose who you'd like to do the work.

The word 'custom' in my country seems to be seen as a tribal tradition or something.

[roygoodwin]

Be sure to ask Mr Google about forming polycarbonate.  As I recall, it can absorb moisture vapor that needs to be driven off by warming before really heating it up for forming.  Also "water clear" doesn't necessarily mean optically perfect, i.e. it *might* be perfectly clear, but have waves of distortion.  The video was blowforming 1/8" -- how thick/thin was it after forming ?  I *think* the windscreen needs to be 1/4" thick AFTER bending/forming.  You *might* need to start with something thicker to accommodate the forming & still have the necessary thickness.  You probably know this stuff, but "just-in-case"

Roy

[Richard 2]

Be sure to ask Mr Google about forming polycarbonate.  As I recall, it can absorb moisture vapor that needs to be driven off by warming before really heating it up for forming.  Also "water clear" doesn't necessarily mean optically perfect, i.e. it *might* be perfectly clear, but have waves of distortion.  The video was blowforming 1/8" -- how thick/thin was it after forming ?  I *think* the windscreen needs to be 1/4" thick AFTER bending/forming.  You *might* need to start with something thicker to accommodate the forming & still have the necessary thickness.  You probably know this stuff, but "just-in-case"

Roy

These type of comments are good and informative for us that don't know, Thanks 

[wobblywalrus]

Wayne (Elmo), correct me if I am wrong, but I recall you used PTFE which is a far easier material to mold than PC.

I used PC and it was very difficult.  The molder did a very good job.  There were three problems.  One, my mold was not perfectly shaped and this, compounded with the thick PC I used, made optical distortion I could not seen to be able to sand out.  Lesson learned, make a real good mold and use thin plastic.

Second, the thick plastic had a memory.  It did not fit real tight against the mold around the edges.  It was very slightly larger than the mold.  his is a problem with PC.

Third, a special dry storage area is needed in a PC molder's operation so the stuff can be stored where it does not pick up atmospheric moisture.  In Oregon that requires more than a dry room cause we are so wet here.  It takes a dry and dehumidified room or storage locker.  The moisture makes tiny bubbles in the plastic when the PC is heated.

If I was doing it over, I would use PTFE, for sure, and as thin as possible.  It is easier to work with and it has less moisture related problems than PC.  It should give excellent results if your mold is good.  Or, I would have it done using drop or blow forming.

[Elmo Rodge]

Walrus, it is actually PETG that I used. It has better optical clarity than polycarbonate. Everything else you said is correct.  By the way, when I finished my mold I for got an important part of the molding procedure. I sanded with probably 360 grit sandpaper only to have them rough it up with 40 grit.  They do this so the felt that they lay over the mold doesn't slide around. Wayno

[tauruck]

We had no internet connection here for a few days

It just came back.

Some progress on that Polystyrene nose plug.
The low density 10mm  sheet isn't optimal but I've stuck with it.
It cracked even under the slightest pressure.
Almost done and by later today I'll be able to move on to the engine cover.

[tauruck]

Lots and lots of masking tape going onto this but the end result will be OK.

[tauruck]

The foam block needed to be cut to clear the dummy motor but I've since filled in the hole.

Some pics of the ribs.

[Buickguy3]

  It's starting to look like an extended F-1 car. Those guys do a lot with a little. Maybe there's another sponsor out there with some big money.
   Doug 

[Richard 2]

Mike, Are you going to add some nice radius where the canopy meets the flat part of the body?
Richard 2

[tauruck]

Richard, I'm a long way off but yes.

There are profiles cut and stacked all over.
I'm honestly designing as I go.
The nose was priority.
Getting that over where the wheel tubs will be was number one.

I've made sketches and have an idea of what the finished car will look like but one doesn't want to copy other cars out there.
Building the way I do is not for impatient people. The adhesive takes forever so you can only go so far.

Doug, as long as it doesn't turn out looking like the current batch!.

[tauruck]

Doug, here's some more F1 for ya!.

The nose plug is as good as it will get fabrication wise.

Filler and some glass fabric should give me a good starting point.

It looks way better in the pics though. Its rough as a Polar Bear's behind but I know where I screwed up.

Other than the little stumble this morning.

I tripped and put two nice holes in it.

[tauruck]

Other angles.