Springfield Flyer.

[Seldom Seen Slim]

To Mark's "hijack" which isn't really, but sorta:  I keep a three-ring binder out in the garage/shop -- filled with the instructions for the power tools.  Just in case I need to know the part number for the internal filter on the weed whacker or anything -- dang, the manufacturer went to lots of trouble to transloculate (?!) the real instructions into international picture-speak -- so I'd best keep 'em in case I need entertainment I need to repair something simple. 

Paper records last better than digital ones!!!!!

[tauruck]

Mark, I know all about the intellectual property stuff. My philosophy is that Karma bites!!!.
Just checked the link. That's all beyond me but thank you. I think my boys have something similar
but If I go your route I'll pay.
I know the short block will be right (along with the heads) as far as cleanliness and related go.
Guys thought I was crazy spending two weeks cleaning a block after machining. Chased every thread
etc but you know all that stuff already. Used rolls of paper towel. I'll build the Plenum and all the parts
but the gurus need to make it run. My mentor taught me well and I might load all the finished parts and
drive the 800 miles to him so we can build the motor together. We're still a way off but I need to have the
electronics as soon as possible. It would be great to be able to use all three motors but one has 350HP and 2V
heads with a 268* cam and 600 Holley. The second one has a Torker manifold with TRW pop up pistons and MSD 7AL
and electronic dizzy. Also 4V port plate heads. Maybe 450-500HP? I don't know, it's in bits.

Sparky, we don't have a class here for liners. Mine is the only one in Africa and going to Bonneville won't happen
unless I crack a big Pick 6 or the only ticket on the Lotto so I don't think we'll have a problem with offset.
LSR here is a bunch of guys with rolls of duct tape they use between hood and fenders. They think they'll go faster by taking
the spare wheel out of the trunk. It's nothing like you're used to. Road cars without roll cages and guys in T shirts with El Cheapo bike helmets!!!.

When the liner is done I think the country will be in shock. If we do 300 we'll get a ticker tape parade for sure.
This car is the best kept secret in South Africa. Two problems remain. Tires and ECU, both big ticket items.
Our currency is R16/USD. R120,000 for 8 tires without shipping. Imagine paying $120,000 for rubber, that's how I feel.
Not looking for sympathy in any way. I kinda knew what I was getting into so I just gotta ride the coaster.

[manta22]

"LSR here is a bunch of guys with rolls of duct tape they use between hood and fenders. They think they'll go faster by taking
the spare wheel out of the trunk. It's nothing like you're used to. Road cars without roll cages and guys in T shirts with El Cheapo bike helmets!!!."

Mike;

The present African LSR record holder? 

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[floydjer]

Tell ya what Mike...when I figure out this Powerball thingie....I will rain $$$ on your project 

[wheelrdealer]

Mike:

Every time I hit a flat spot in my rebuild, when I wonder where the next $$ for parts will come from I learn from you Mike. If a guy in South Africa with fab skills , desire and determination can build a long car then I can figure out how to finish my little ole' CBGALT! The equivalent of $120,000  K US for tires puts me right back  into appreciating where I am and the  resources available.  You deserve a ticker tape parade if you go 300 with all the obstacles overcome. Keep it going... you are an inspiration.

I read somewhere on this forum where the point was made. Someone said, "I always wanted to build an LSR car". The writer made the point....no you did not "always want to build and LSR car"...if you did you would find a way. In the states us LSR guys are 1%ers, in South Africa you must be a .001%er that have the will and the drive to build something and do something no one else there  can do. Mike you are one that has taken the dream from shop talk (BS) to reality. You are past the point of no return... only path is forward. Keep doing it right... chase  those threads as long as it takes. Some day in the shut down lane it will be all  worth it.

BR

[tauruck]

Neil, if it wasn't for the Spanish stop sign you'd be spot on.
They can't get M/T rubber in Cuba either I see.
Thanks Jerry and I know you aren't "joking"

Bill, those are some very kind words and that's the inspiration that keeps me going.
God Bless you, you've made me quite emotional now. I don't really have words.

Now you know why you guys are my best friends!!!!.
There are 183,000 views on this build and NOT ONE negative comment. All I get
is inspiration, help and the best advice ever.
Thank you all.

[wobblywalrus]

Mike, this is in response to your concerns about the oxygen sensor.  A lot of the bike guys are selecting a map that sorta should work.  Then, they dyno the engine and change the trim on the maps and ignition timing to give best power and torque.  They look at the indicated mixture as shown by the oxygen sensor at peak torque rpm.  They adjust the maps to give that mixture at the lower rpms.  They disable or remove the oxygen sensor.  Some of these guys are using the shop's oxygen sensor in the tailpipe for tuning instead of having oxygen sensors on their bikes.  The bikes are run open loop with the environmental sensors adjusting the mixture.

One weekend I disabled the oxygen sensors on the Triumph and rode it over Santiam Pass using only the environmental sensors to adjust the mixture.  The pass is over 5,000 feet and the idea worked OK.  This might be something to discuss with your tuning experts.

[tauruck]

Thanks Bo. I'll run it by them and let you know what they say.

[Sporty Dan]

Mike, your attention to detail is an inspiration to the rest of us.  That attention to detail will help the motor live longer and make more power than a motor just thrown together. I find myself going back and rereading this thread when I get stuck for motivation. 

[SPARKY]

 

[tauruck]

Thanks Dan. This is why this is the best forum ever.
We all get inspiration from each other. God Bless you.
Sparky and Speed Limit thanks for trying to help this dumb ass on the ECU situation.

[tauruck]

As you all know by now voltage, amps and electronics aren't my thing.
I'm looking for advice on household electrics.

My compressor motor blew big time due to a whole bunch of factors
and the advice I got was after sorting out a new motor i should change the current 20A
circuit breaker for a 45A. I bought one.
I'm looking at the board and the switch that always tripped was the one on the left of the three center ones.
It's bridged across the top with a copper plate. Should I just replace it?. Doesn't the bridge create problems
not that I want to remove it?. It looks like the power goes through the other two first but what do I know?.

Thanks guys and no I won't work on live equipment.

[manta22]

Mike;

It looks like the AC line goes into the far left 2-pole breaker/GFI at the top and comes out on the bottom. There is a heavy red wire that goes from there up to the top of the three breakers that are strapped together at the top. The motor line is out the bottom of the left (of the 3 breakers).

I'd be careful about replacing the 20A beaker with a 40A one. You want the breaker to trip before the motor burns up.

Check the motor data plate-- does it show the starting current? the running current? Usually you want a breaker that is about 20-30% higher rating than the motor running current. The higher starting current is handled by the breaker's "IsqT" characteristics. It allows a larger current to flow for a short time without blowing, thus allowing the compressor motor to start. Breakers have different time constants so make sure you have a "slow-blow" characteristic.

One other thing to check- air compressors, like A/C compressors, sometimes use an "unloader valve" that bleeds off head pressure against the compressor to make it easier on the motor when it starts. See if yours has one and that it's working.

You're right-- do not work on live electrical circuits.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

[Frank06]

Breakers are there to protect the wire, not the equipment...

[Ron Gibson]

Make sure the wires in to the breaker box and out to the motor are sized for at least 40 amp. Low voltage due to too small wire will burn up motors. Test voltage with compressor running. Years ago I had a similar problem, and the cause was the wiring to the shop from the transformer on the power line was too small.

Ron