Springfield Flyer.

[tauruck]

I've found that "more" in the morning is better!.
Just kidding, I never have a hangover but maybe
it's because the guys I hang with don't bench race,
swing wrenches etc.

I need to find real dudes to drink with. I know there are some way to the west across the Atlantic.

Just found out that my big Ford 9" axle bearings aren't. I have the Mustang ones. 2.835" or thereabouts.
Not the right parts for my needs I'm told. Luckily I never got the axle tubes on Friday. I might have welded up
all the wrong stuff.

My option is to get 2 big bearings from my sponsor and machine new outer housings. Their catalogue
is as thick as a the Bible and the parts are in there but what type bearing do I ask for?.

Deep Groove, Angular contact, Spindle, Cylindrical, Tapered, Barrel Roller, Spherical Roller or self aligning?
And what OD, sealed or non sealed, oil bath or grease?.

Only you guys have the answers.

[Rex Schimmer]

Mike,
Almost all bearings, except some American "agricultural" bearings are measured in MMs so that is where you need to start. I would think that you would use deep grove ball bearings as they have both good radial load ability and good axial load ability and also good rpm ratings. Needle bearings, roller bearings, spherical roller bearings, and tapered roller bearings all have better, usually, radial load capability but you will need to add some sort of bearing to carry axial load. Thinking about a 28 inch dia tire at 400 mph says that the rpm will be around 4800 rpm. So you need a bearing that is rated for at least 5000 rpm with what ever load you think you will have, car weight + down force/4 tires = load. Are you planning to have full floating axles or are you going to press or retain the bearing on the axle as the standard 9 inch Ford does? Using this method only requires a single bearing per axle and also allows you to use a smaller ID bearing which will have a higher rpm rating. Seals cause drag and a sealed bearing means you cannot pack it with high speed grease so I would avoid sealed bearings but you will need to incorporate a seal into your axle design. I will do a little research for you in the next couple of days if you want to find an appropriate bearing. If you think that you need higher axial load than a standard deep grove bearing will provide then I would look at angular contact bearings, you will need two on each axle but they can provide both good radial and axial load carrying ability and very low drag.


Rex

[tauruck]

Thanks a bunch Rex.

I still have your email address.
Can I mail you please?.

[Rex Schimmer]

No problem Mike, send me your requirements, estimated load, required dimensions and anything you think will help and I'll take a look.

Rex

[tauruck]

Thanks. Will do.

[tauruck]

I collected my axle tubes today. Perfectly machined and I'll be pressing them
onto the center portion stubs tomorrow.

The rear end is in my personal deep freeze until I need it in the morning.
Pics in the AM.

[tauruck]

Anyone for a cold one??.

Rear end in the deep freeze overnight.

Prepping tubes in 15 minutes.

[tauruck]

This is why building a liner outside of the US and on your own is a dumb idea!.

I'm in a bind and from day one the rear end has been a problem.

I cut the GM 7.5 10 bolt axle tubes to what I thought was a good length
for the mod of using the 9" axles, bearings and hubs. As you know liners
are pretty narrow so the diff is too. My tubes are around 115mm long (about 6").

I've had the rear end housing in the deep freezer for 16 hours and it's time to press the new tubes over
the stubs. I had a good look at the initial fit before applying pressure and it looks like the GM tubes are slightly out of
round. Do I just go for it and hope for the best?. The last thing I need is to move the new axle tubes 1/2" and get into problems
with it galling.

What's the solution?. Heat the outer tubes with the torch and hope for divine intervention.

I don't know what to do to be honest. I don't think these short sections with such a thick wall will get out of shape
but good advice before I get physical is the right way to go.

You guys must have encountered this very situation before. Any and all advice is welcome.

Thanks.

[floydjer]

Toss the outers in the oven at 425 for an hour or so  and drop `em on...If you still need to press them ,just be sure not to stop until they bottom out. You MIGHT want to run a cylinder hone in them briefly first.

[Stainless1]

what do the pieces measure? How much interference fit?

I would think if it is a couple of thou Jerry's idea should work fine...

OMHBO (Others may have better opinions)   

[wobblywalrus]

Mike, I strongly recommend that you measure and hone so the fit is not so tight that you cannot move it with available force if it gets stuck during assembly and the parts cool.  Like Stainless says, a couple of thou and no more.   

[wobblywalrus]

Mike, that article I just posted a link to in the Bloodhound photos section has some good info about the Haskeen Pan and suspension set up.

[tauruck]

Thanks all.

I never had a successful day.

I had the diff in the freezer overnight and heated the axle tube to around 450 in the gas oven.
When it came time to press the parts the diff cocked to one side so I need to make a jig to hold it
upright.
I'll fry one up in the morning and my mate Ian is going to clean a few thou on the ID of the axle tube
on his lathe and we'll try again. The original machining was a bit of a rough cut and I think polishing
the ridges will do it.

I'm having this weird problem with my tig torch too. I've been using a 1,6 electrode for most of the work
but I changed to the 2,6 (I think that's the size?.) for welding the thick material.
All I'm getting is arcing between the cup and electrode. I reshaped the tip countless times and checked the cup for cracks
but it all looks good. Could be a bad batch of electrodes?. I'm stumped because I've never experienced this phenomena before.

Any ideas?.

[aussievetteracer]

Mate- can you post a photo of your torch/tungsten/cup please?
Denis

[tauruck]

I'll do so in the AM Denis.
Thanks mate.