Just ran across this...I will ad a note from "long ago". The first problem you might have is with the rings. They will roach and you will lose your Dykes effect. If you have to run pretty close to the bottom, but stay in the bore, you may have to run one piece oil rings.....not sure, we never tried three piece in big stroke increase.
We used to pull a lot of skirt out of the bore, back in the days of big stroke increase in small Hondas. We had pistons cut almost to the wrist pins, just to clear the full circle crank. With one piece oil rings, we were ok. Thats how you take a 90cc single and build it to 174cc! The rings are doing a lot of work keeping a piston straight, so skirt length has all but disappeared on some engines. Now they have cage pistons and they work well!
Piston acceleration gets pretty fierce when you add a lot of stroke without longer cylinders and rods. You will subtract rpm if you go down this path. Keep in mind, you can have pistons made with bridged or plug mounted oil rings and the wrist pin moved up. They can move the ring pack up, with thinner rings and closer spacing. I was looking at as much as 4-5 mm shift upward (working with CP) when I was considering taking my 650 twin into 1000 class. That would have added 8-10mm to the stroke and barely got me into a tough class. That usually ends badly.
Remember...if you add a lot of stroke, you need to reduce cooling in the bottom of the bores....trim fins if air cooled, or insulate if water cooled. All the new longer stroke production cars and trucks are using some method of keeping heat in the bottom of the bores, due to the longer expansion time. And....Dont pull the pin out of the bore, build the pistons to suit.
Regards, JimL