Author Topic: Australian Streamliner Bike Build  (Read 436725 times)

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Offline grumm441

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #780 on: May 07, 2013, 08:42:34 AM »
A mold is a good idea for replacement panels for when it falls over
and I would hide the mint sauce. I've heard they are using it as aftershave
G
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Offline kiwi belly tank

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #781 on: May 07, 2013, 11:21:53 AM »
A mold is a good idea for replacement panels for when it falls over
and I would hide the mint sauce. I've heard they are using it as aftershave
G
The Sheila's?
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Offline manta22

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #782 on: May 07, 2013, 11:52:52 AM »
There was a Don Vesco quote on here about fire. To paraphrase, "When do you know you are on fire? Trust me, you WILL know when you are on fire!"

In a rear-engine car, you are the last one to know that you're on fire.

Trust me on that one-- my Porsche burned down after pedestrians let me know that the car was on fire. A quick look in the rear view mirror confirmed that diagnosis.  :-o

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #783 on: May 07, 2013, 04:21:20 PM »
Thanks Neil
That confirms my suspicions, you soon know when you have no oil pressure too but there are slightly less expensive ways to find out it's low.

I won't have any mirrors to check either, wondering which of the different house fire alarm sensors would be the most suitable to hack in to.
Most of them are 9 volt, wonder how they would like 13 volt?

Cheers
jon
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Offline Peter Jack

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #784 on: May 07, 2013, 05:25:31 PM »
I won't have any mirrors to check either, wondering which of the different house fire alarm sensors would be the most suitable to hack in to.
Most of them are 9 volt, wonder how they would like 13 volt?

You probably don't want to do that either. The house alarms are way to sensitive to put in an engine compartment where all the interesting fumes and gases would be continually sending false alarms. You'd never make a complete run!  :roll: :roll: :evil:

Pete

Offline Elmo Rodge

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #785 on: May 07, 2013, 05:42:49 PM »
Jon, I had the bright idea of trying a remote temp sensor like I have at the house for indoor /outdoor temps. Turns out it had an update rate of something like 4 minutes.  :roll: I'm pretty sure I'd know something was wrong by then.  :wink: Wayno

Offline grumm441

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #786 on: May 07, 2013, 05:53:08 PM »
you could just run a length of wire around the engine bay connected to the earth of a light
If it melts, the light has an earth and the light comes on
G
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Offline Dr Goggles

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #787 on: May 07, 2013, 08:21:00 PM »
I have a much more sensible suggestion. Hang a piece of bread either side of the motor, if you've got a fire in there everyone from Lake Gairdner to Adelaide will be able to smell burning toast. If that doesn't fill you with confidence then collect the trimmings next time you have a haircut and stick hair on the outside of your motor, the smell of burning hair will travel through concrete at a speed that exceeds that of light in a vacuum.

What? I'm just trying to be helpful.... :roll:
Few understand what I'm trying to do but they vastly outnumber those who understand why...................

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Offline maj

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #788 on: May 07, 2013, 08:48:26 PM »
Stick a capilary gauge in there and get used to whats normal
be similar to the turbine motors fire wire

Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #789 on: May 08, 2013, 01:22:17 AM »
Thanks guys, plenty of good info there.

SFI rated bread is a bit of of my budget.

This does look interesting though, building on Grumm's idea.
http://www.systemsensor.com/pdf/A05-0288.pdf

Cheers
jon
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Offline SPARKY

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #790 on: May 08, 2013, 06:00:06 AM »
Jon,  I know some cars in the past that had systems where the air presser  kept the chute and fire systems from deploying.  The air line was then run close to potential fire areas if there was flames it melted the nylon air line releasing the chute and firing the fire system.
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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #791 on: May 08, 2013, 06:56:43 AM »
Thanks Sparky, sounds like a good option to explore.
Did they pin the systems safe at all times when the air could slowly leak down pressure?

Thanks
jon
Underhouse Engineering
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Offline Jon

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #792 on: May 08, 2013, 06:18:42 PM »
I believe Sid (that I stole the smoke detector idea from) ran a detector for a while, I'll hassle him some more.
I may have misunderstood him, it may have been a fire detector (which is a different animal) and I just thought was a kiwi way of saying smoke detector.

Looks like there is two types of Fire detectors; temperature threshold and temperature rise.

Greg's idea of a bourdon tube gauge is good but I don't want to be watching a gauge, a Murphy gauge would be a simple solution, just set the contacts a bit above the temperature that engine compartments runs at.

The FireWire looks good and simple and has the benefit of sensing for the whole length of the cable similar to Sparky's mention of the pressurised Nylon air hose.

Cheers
jon
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Offline manta22

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #793 on: May 08, 2013, 09:00:56 PM »
Jon;

There is a third type of fire detector- it looks for energy in the IR and UV and senses the flame flicker pattern as well. Walter Kidde Aerospace makes them (maybe others do too) and they are NOT cheap. Luckily I found one on the surplus market a while back and I will install it in my firewall, looking at the lower part of my engine. I've mounted a "FIRE" indicator on the instrument panel already.

Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ
Regards, Neil  Tucson, AZ

Offline JimL

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Re: Australian Streamliner Bike Build
« Reply #794 on: May 09, 2013, 01:05:59 AM »
Brainstorming this....how about ignition points mounted several places in the engine bay, all wired to the ground wire of a single big warning light.  Put a piece of thermo wax under the lift tab on the contactor arm.  If any one of them melts the wax, the point closes and the light turns on.  You can test the "turn on point" with a heat gun...just adjust the points for more or less tension to have a little selection range.  All you have to replace after testing is the wax (or maybe use a soft plastic or soft foam pad for your melt down material.)

Of course, the melt material is flammable but if it burns, then the points have already closed, the light is on, and youve hit the fire bottle.  You could monitor a lot of positions for about $20 or so, and it would be easy to check and maintain.  If you wanted a little more info, you could wire each point set to individual lights.  If only one comes on, and nothing else happens quickly, you can make a judgement call.  If they all start turning on, you know how big the problem is.  I like that idea best...still cheap and easy, but maybe less likely to mess you up with a false problem.

I am not wild about the idea of automatic cutoff or chute deploy.  What if you are using power to straighten out before pulling the chute at the right moment?  I pulled the chute on the roadster, once, when it was too sideways (back in the days when you could sneak up to ElMirage in the middle of the week to test the car).  I would sure never want to have that choice made for me, now that I know what a dumb move that was!  The other side of the snap back is worse than the problem you started with, is the way I feel about it....cant say with authority...only tried it once and wouldnt again.

JimL