How To Plumb In A Dry Sump Oil Pump?

[Tman]

I am not familiar with the filters from Gibbs or Royal, I just like them for thier lube, I will do some digging and find the answer for you though.

  Flatee, go buy a new Fram and a new Wix race filter and cut them apart.
  You may be suprised by the difference in quality between the two.
  Then if you buy the mount for a Wix two quart Nascar filter you will have more that doubled the surface area a hell of a lot cheaper than a hundred bucks a pop.                     Bob

I wouldn't wish a Fram on my worst enemy. I am just tickled that a supplier I just got set up with handles, Wix, Joe Gibbs oil, Royal Purple, and other brands I trust.

Trent, who makes the Joe Gibbs and Royal Purple filters? Joe Gibbs doesn't make filters or oil, but I don't know who does his filters.

I believe Champ labs makes the Royal Purple filters, and also makes the filters for Mobile.

[jl222]

JL,
John, with all of the HP that you and Troy make looking for hp buy testing filters is really a waste of time and money. You probably couldn't detect a 5 hp difference the way your motor is trying to rip the dyno apart!

Rex

  Yea, and the room, last time we dynoed, it shook the knot hole patches out of the plywood cieling 12 ft up. and dust and
crap was floating all over. on previous runs its blown most of the floresence lights out and unplugged the cord to the dyno chassis. I finnally siliconed the plug in [should be a twist lock].

   It vibrates the room so much they have to put the recording part of the dyno in another room and shut the door.

   I was trying to take a temp reading off the headers with a temp gun and decided ''to heck with this I'm not standing
here another second I'm out of here ''

  Would like to run an inline filter after pump pickup and before tank #16 line but not sure of flow and filter size.

     JL222

    

  

[wobblywalrus]

How do you open up the Fram can to look at the element?

[maguromic]

How do you open up the Fram can to look at the element?

You have to cut it with an oil filter cutter. Many dealers sell the cutters on the net for about $35.  Tony

[Peter Jack]

When I didn't have a cutter I cut it apart with snips. You have to punch a hole first and then start the cut from there. The main thing is to not use a saw or abrasive cutter as that will contaminate the evidence.

Pete

[Bob Drury]

  Wobbly, after losing my first one I bought a new one. 
  As per usual, I then found the other one so I have a extra unused one.
  If you get into Portland I am about ten minutes across either bridge into Vancouver.
  Oh, yeah, $25.                                    Bob (360) 696-1428

[4-barrel Mike]

Bob:  If Bo (Wobbly) doesn't want it, I'm interested.

Mike

[Stan Back]

Speedway has them for $39.99.  Good for 1-1/2" to 6-3/8" diameter.

[wobblywalrus]

I am interested in buying the can opener.  A PM is on its way.

[Bob Drury]

  Sold! 
  Not bad when you sell something you forgot you even had.........  now if I could just sell my bad breath..............   

[wobblywalrus]

The idea of putting a Wix on the scavenge side and a good filter on the pressure feed makes sense.  The Wix would sieve out the bigger stuff and prevent it from reaching the good filter and clogging it.

Bob, the can opener arrived here.  Thanks.

[Bob Drury]

  Wobbly, one piece of advice, it really helps to have a second set of hands unless you have a vice that will hold the filter (or possibly chuck up a filter wrench in the vice) because if you put the tool in the vice the liquid on your feet will be oil, or oil and pee if you are as old as some of us..............
                                                       Bob

[38flattie]

Thanks for playing, everyone!

At the end of the day, I've decided to take Rex's advice, and plumb in a Pall 7400, 3 micron filter, on the return line to the sump tank. I'll have an Oberg in front of that, to check between runs.

No filter on the pressure side, so I'm sure I'll hear about that from my camp.....

[Bob Drury]

 Just remember that  Moroso, Barnes and most every Dry Sump manufacturer DO NOT recomend Fine filters BEFORE the scavenge sections, but Do recomend them on the Pressure side Out of the pump to engine.  
  Most mechanical pumps (oil, fuel, etc.) do not appreciate restrictions of flow coming in.
  Moroso recomends (and I run) Moroso inline filters on the scavenge side which are fine enough to keep any particles big enough to hurt the pump.
  The clearances in the pump are not like engine bearings, and even if they are slightly scored will not likely be of any concern.
  If you plug up the filters on the scavenge side with debris, not only will you lose the engine, but you will most likely get to buy a new dry sump pump too.
  On the other hand if you are buying a used pump, keep in mind that if the rotors are "gouged", the aluminum case is probably no good and will need replaced.
 This is usually caused by not running "inline coarse type (Moroso)" filters on the scavenge side when catastrophic engine failure occurs.
    One more note of caution on buying a used pump:  if it does not turn freely by hand when empty (and minus fitting caps), the shaft is most likely bent from being in a crash or dropped on the pulley end.
  

[38flattie]

If you plug up the filters on the scavenge side with debris, not only will you lose the engine, but you will most likely get to buy a new dry sump pump too.

Bob, if I plug the filter on the pressure side, won't I also lose the engine, and get to buy a new dry sump too?

Seriously, I may put some filter on the pressure side, mainly to catch the pump particles as it wears in. It's a brand new Barnes, so it should be in good shape.

I'm not saying I'm right and anyone is wrong-I'm just saying I'm going to try it, as it makes sense to me!