'84 Dodge Rampage Build Thread

[SteveM]

I appreciate the input as well as the "push".  I have to keep moving forward on this project in order to get it done.

I have never seen detachable rear support bars - I would definitely have to get clearance from the SCTA before doing something like that.

I may have been able to get away without using the plate gussets, but didn't want to take the chance.  I'd rather spend a little more time fitting the rear glass.

Steve.

[Captthundarr]

Steve, there are componets out there to fab up removable bars but they should only be used in the correct loading areas IMO. Your stuff is looking real good. keep at it.

[tauruck]

Steve, what I had in mind was marking the area at the top of the cage where you would attach the braces. Fit the window and mark the Lexan. Cut your holes lower and bigger than you need and slide the brace set through those holes. You can then attach the clevises (Male) to the brace set and offer it up to where you marked the hoop and tack on the female set. Takes a bit of work but I think you know what I'm getting at. Once you're happy that the window fits and the angles are exactly right you can seperate the clevis setup and finish welding the ends. After that it's a case of making two donuts that slide over the braces so that when the window's in place they cover the larger holes. The clevises can be welded together if the rules don't allow their use. The other way is to do the same deal with pipe but slide the window over before you weld. You're done already but maybe someone else could use the idea. No hijack intended.

[SteveM]

OK - after emails with SCTA regarding the gussets, I decided to cut the plate gussets off, and weld in the X.  I realize that it might not be as stout as it could be, but this still "may" be the stoutest built '84 Rampage in existence today.



Steve.

[tauruck]

It looks better IMO and I don't think it's compromised the structure. You're doing a great job Steve. Power to you.

[SteveM]

Thanks Tauruck.

Yesterday, I picked up the engine parts that I dropped off at the machine shop a while back.  Everything looks great.  The shop did an excellent job of balancing all the rods to the pistons, setting all the bearing clearances, polishing the crank, setting up the head, etc., etc. 

Here are some pics...


Reworked stock rods, new small end bushings, ARP bolts installed, resized big ends, and individually weight matched to the corresponding pistons.



Matching pistons, sized for each bore, and balanced in conjunction with the rods.



The stock, forged crank only needed to be cleaned up and have the journals polished.



For reference purposes, the bore sizes are noted on the piston box.



The assembled head



A view into 2 ports, showing the tapered guides, lightly ported bowls, and 7mm stems.



The guest of honor, with head studs, main studs, line honed main caps, and fresh intermediate shaft bearings.





,

[tauruck]

It all looks great. Funny how ARP rod bolts make you more confident.Good luck with the assembly.

[Captthundarr]

Now your talk'in looks good Mr.M Just luv when parts come back from the shop.

[SteveM]

The ARP goodies gave me such a boost, I found the energy to weld the roof back onto the truck today.  It's not pretty (yet), but it's all in one piece again, and the Cleco holes have been welded shut as well.







Steve

[tauruck]

There's huge work going into your truck Steve and it's coming together very quickly. Well done.

[gkabbt]

Dude,

Cage looks really good and I'm sure you are glad to have the roof back in place. Motor parts look equally good as well.
Keep pushing.....You're getting there. 

Gregg

[SteveM]

Thanks guys.  I took another step forward today, ordering a Garrett GT2056 turbo.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/default_images/turbogroup/catalog_pdf/GT2056_751578_2_1.pdf

[tauruck]

It's good that you found the right match for your motor. Takes the guess work out of the equation.

[JimL]

While you are there, you might like to put a bearing ball under each stud, before you torque it in the block.

It keeps the end of the stud from bulging the cylinder, and it compresses the iron toward the deck, instead of stretching the deck upwards.  Just enough ball to keep the stud from bottoming in the threads.

I am enjoying your project, thanks!

[SteveM]

Good tip, Jim.  That's one I hadn't known before.  I try to learn something new every day.  A lot of days don't work out like that, but today just did.

Steve.