Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => SCTA Rule Questions => Topic started by: Genuine GM on May 03, 2010, 12:09:25 PM
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I the rule book, 2009, it states that fuel lines in the area of the Flywheel/flexplate shall be installed:
a. outside the frame rails, or
b. enclosed in heavy gauge tubing.
Due to other issues, I can't run them outside of the frame, so what is the general consensus of heavy gauge tubing? Spare piece of Roll Cage material with .188 wall? 2 inch x 2 inch square tube with a .25 wall?
Please advise.
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I the rule book, 2009, it states that fuel lines in the area of the Flywheel/flexplate shall be installed:
a. outside the frame rails, or
b. enclosed in heavy gauge tubing.
Due to other issues, I can't run them outside of the frame, so what is the general consensus of heavy gauge tubing? Spare piece of Roll Cage material with .188 wall? 2 inch x 2 inch square tube with a .25 wall?
Please advise.
Either of these will be fine.
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The outside diameter you are thinking about seems a little large to me. If that's what you have it will do but I would use something less space consuming. But the .250 wall should make them very happy.
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Saw this thread and looked at the rule book. Saw new bold print for 3.I page 31 "No flexible fuel lines of any kind allowed in driver's compartment". So I take that to include steel braided line on passenger side?
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I know the diameter is large, just throwing that out there, although I will likely run the transmission cooler lines through the same tube. ATF burns just as bad as fuel, plus it smokes like crazy!
Thundersalt: I believe you are correct. The braided line on the passenger side will no longer be acceptable.
Thanks to all.
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I was told .120 wall or thicker---ie roll cage material thickness or better
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So, I guess aluminum tubing will be ok? I feel that compression fittings on alum tubing are not as safe as one lenght of steel braid.
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It must be steel tubing
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A few years ago we ran up Pikes Peak at the annual hill climb. We used the race gas they were supplying on site and it worked well. When we got home and went to start the car a week later, the braided lines erupted in a geyser of fuel the length of the line. We were really happy the line wasn't running through the cockpit and that we had no stray sparks before we got things shut down. Solid steel lines are worth the extra effort to install them. (Still don't know what was in that fuel!) :-o
Pete
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Wasn't necessarily anything in the fuel to cause that. I work on helicopters and when a hose fails, it fails! The failure worse than that is when the individual layers of rubber seperate within the hose, then under pressure it closes off; but when you pull the hose and look through it, it is clear. Very frustrating.
My buddy parked his 70 Chevelle bracket car one October, come April, when we turned on the fuel pumps, it looked like an El Toro lawn sprinkler under the hood.
That is why solid line is always best where ever possible. You just never know.
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Here is my fuel line protection near the bellhousing area.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0984.jpg)
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That looks good!
How far in front of and aft of the bellhousing do I need to run the tube? I figured an auto flexplate is thin enough that a 12 inch piece will work, welded to the inside of the frame rail. C-type frame rail.
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I used about 24 " on this car and 18" on the Vicky.
6" forward of the flex plate should be enough and as far as rearward, I like is to go back all the way past the bellhousing.
Charles