Landracing Forum

Loring Timing Association (Maine) => Loring (AFB) land speed venue => Topic started by: billr on April 19, 2010, 05:47:23 PM

Title: roll bars /what class to run
Post by: billr on April 19, 2010, 05:47:23 PM

 I would like to get a few answers. I have a 1972 cuda that  I would like to run in maine this summer under 150mph. I run a 416 smallblock and a tko600 5speed trans.         can my  rollbar be bolted in the car  and can the rear bars be bolted to the top hoop ? I would like to use a slip fit with crossbolts. I have the rule book but some things are not very clear.I am not looking to set any records , rule 2.g  i have never seen a wheel that the lug nuts don't touch it,my wheels have tapers that the lugs seat against,so why would you have to put heavy washers under the lugnuts,maybe I just read the rules wrong. this is a very nice street car that I don't want to weld all over it.  Any one from CT. I'm in the danbury area ......... thanks for your time    Bill R

Title: Re: roll bars /what class to run
Post by: 55chevr on April 19, 2010, 08:44:51 PM

check Joe Timney ...

Title: Re: roll bars /what class to run
Post by: Cajun Kid on April 19, 2010, 09:06:45 PM

For 135 and under no roll bar needed (but advised)

For 150 you will need a roll bar.. Yes you can bolt them in but must have 1/4" plates and at least 3/8" Grade 8 bolts nuts and washers. ( I prefer 7/16 grade 8's)   Look at the examples in the ECTA rule book.  You will need SFI approved seat belts to exceed 135 mph too.

I have an older build diary on my 1933 Vicky,,(2008)  it shows the required 1/4 plates and all the bolt in location

Here is one pic,,, notice the 6 x 6 x .250 thick plates welded to the base of the cage,,, they bolt into 6 x 6 x .250 thick plates that are welded to the chassis.. using  4 bolts ( 7/16 grade 8's)

(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0408.jpg)



Hope this helps

Charles

Title: Re: roll bars /what class to run
Post by: 2K10 SS on April 20, 2010, 08:52:20 PM

  Hey billr,
     I agree with you totally.  Having to weld in a roll bar to be legal really turned me off, but rules are rules.  Maybe Cajun Kid's idea and example will help you but you will still have to drill a bunch of holes.  A boltin roll bar will actually be more work than a weldin.  I couldn't bring myself to put a rollbar in my 2k10 camaro so I found a beater firebird to build.  This way I can enjoy this sport and be safe and legal.  Again, call Joe Timney.  He helped me out with my rollbar questions.
   Your lugnut issue is a little simpler.  2 styles of lugnuts, acorn and mag style.  No washer required for acorn style, but must be 1" hex. Thick washer required for mag style and must be 1" hex... I think.

Title: Re: roll bars /what class to run
Post by: Joe Timney on April 21, 2010, 03:12:39 PM

Call me in my shop at 302.378.3013. I can help you with answers that will go thru tech.
Joe Timney

Title: Re: roll bars /what class to run
Post by: tedgram on June 18, 2010, 08:19:58 PM

  Have just had a 6 point bar welded into my car. The seat back is three inches from the shoulder bar. I have some two & three inch wide aluminum stock to use for a bracket and would like to drill and tap the shoulder bar to mount the bracket. How thick dose the stock need to be and what size bolts should I use or should I just us muffler clamps?

Title: Re: roll bars /what class to run
Post by: Cajun Kid on June 18, 2010, 11:00:29 PM

If I was going to bolt the brackets in as you describe,, I would use at least 3/16 Plate (if alum) or 1/8 if steel.

As for bolts I would use  3/8 Grade 8

Charles