Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: fredvance on April 04, 2010, 10:55:02 AM
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Need some tips on drilling my new lexan windshield.
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Might be something here you can use: http://www.visionsinplastics.co.uk/POLYCARBONATE%20CUTTING%20&%20DRILLING.pdf (http://www.visionsinplastics.co.uk/POLYCARBONATE%20CUTTING%20&%20DRILLING.pdf)
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Go to http://www.eaa.org/homebuilders/ (http://www.eaa.org/homebuilders/) and click on "Video Tutorials", located in the menu on the left side of the page. There is one about drilling plexiglass and another fitting and installing a canopy.
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Lots of info: http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5899.0.html (http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,5899.0.html)
Mike
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I never had any trouble drilling Lexan like you do drilling Plexyglass, but just to be safe I alwayd use center drills which do not catch and spin through. They will drill a clean hole in Plexy also.
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Aircraft Spruce carries Lexan/Plexiglass drills, I've had good success with these. After a hand deburr I dip a Q-Tip in MEK and coat the hole well. Have had no cracking issues. I also use MEK around the entire perimeter.
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MEK?
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MEK?
methyl ethyl ketone.
Tom G
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Thanx,
I remember her from junior high.
Stan
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Yeah, I think I knew her, too. Wasn't she the original "good time that was had by all"?
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MEK?
methyl ethyl ketone.
Tom G
Methylene Chloride (a known carcinogen) is a good bonding agent for assembling Lexan(R) if you can get it, but for drilling and assembling Lexan any sharp metal drill will work fine. Make the hole slightly oversize and use a flat washer on each side to keep it from cracking due to vibration or chemical attack whether you use a rivet or screws and nuts in assembly.
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A sharp unibit works well. Baby oil is a good lube for drilling and taping Lexan. Plastic washers help also. Lexan is polycarbonate not acrylic. Acrylic will crack, you can bend polycarbonate like aluminum. Brake clean and other petroleum products will kill it.
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Like Rich says, use a small center drill, they work great and don't be in a hurry.
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Thanks everybody I appreciate your input.
Fred
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You just need to grind some reverse rake on your drill bit so that it is more of a scraping action and won't grab and crack the plastic.
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You just need to grind some reverse rake on your drill bit so that it is more of a scraping action and won't grab and crack the plastic.
Rob,
If he adds rake or alters the bit he will have to run in the Modified or Altered Class :evil: :? :evil: :cheers:
Charles
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Very funny Charles. LOL! Maybe he could get a rules variance?
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Its called Negative rake..
I sorta doubt point angle is critical, rake is most important, and flute helix should not matter at low material thickness..
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Craftics sells tools for working with plastic.
All of their drills have 0 rake. Keeps the drill from biting in.
http://www.craftics.net/ShowItems.aspx?Category=132&ParentCategory=87 (http://www.craftics.net/ShowItems.aspx?Category=132&ParentCategory=87)
Lexan machines very well. If you can put it in the drill press you have better control over the speed. Sandwiching the Lexan between two pieces of thin aluminum and drilling through the stack will give you better results and hole finish.
If you have an edge that shows, sand and polish to a good finish then give it a wipe with MEK. Experiment on scrap and you can get a really clear edge.
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All good rules so far. But the number one rule is never, never, ever drill into cold Lexan! :-o Set it out in the sun for a while or warm it some other way but make sure it is warm.
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I've always had great luck melting through with a round/pointed fine burr in a Dremel tool....turning FAST. Makes a wonderful clean hole, and easy to control. Never cracked one yet.
JimL
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Excellent link. This is how its done and should help you avoid a lot of expensive tears. It answers a lot of questions. :-)
http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid1431564069?bclid=1432781645&bctid=19802261001