Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: BAILEIGH INC on March 30, 2010, 01:15:49 PM
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If you have any questions, input, tips or tricks or horror stories about notching tube. The good, the bad and the ugly, here is the place for it.
Hole saw notchers......good or bad?
Best hole saw?
Abrasive notching vs. end mill style notching?
How many notches do you get from an abrasive belt?
Notching with a chop saw?
Best way, worst way to notch tube?
Software to help with tricky notch angles?
Lubrication?
Home made notchers, lets see em!
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Aren't notchers those tortilla chips with cheese on 'em -- as described by someone from New England?
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Thats funny
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Hole saws used in a "joint jigger" work well, but are slow. Bi-metal holesaws are a must. Motor oil is a good lube. I've build a number of cars using one.
I have since upgraded to a dedicated notcher that uses roughing mill cutters. Much quicker and better results, but 15 times the cost.
Dave
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Tubemiter software allows you to put in the diameter of the tubes, the wall thickness and the angle.
It prints a template you can wrap around the tube to make the cut. Very accurate. Dimensions in metric.
http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm (http://www.ozhpv.org.au/shed/tubemiter.htm)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeGVbtrrHjE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeGVbtrrHjE)
Best I've seen, but just a tad pricey for most small shops.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeGVbtrrHjE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeGVbtrrHjE)
Best I've seen, but just a tad pricey for most small shops.
That sir, is bad A**!
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And it's a tad more powerful than the 40-watt CO2 laser in our engraving machine.
I couldn't get the youtube video to play more than the first minute. Anybody else have this happen?
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That is so neat!!! As I understand that is the way that the people at the Terrible Herbst off road truck shop do all of their tube junctions. I am not a great fan of CAD but this is one place that it is trully the best way to go. Probably a little costly for my shop so I guess I will stay with the old saw, grind, file, fit, file, fit, file etc. method until I have to get a Jig a joint.
Rex
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(http://www.turbopinto.com/Smileys/default/icon_eek.gif) Wow! (http://www.turbopinto.com/Smileys/default/icon_eek.gif)
Mike
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It paused for me at about 45 seconds, but then continued on. Must be you, Jon! :roll:
Lynda
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I've got a serious case of tool envy........ and I don't say that often!
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played fine for me but frankly once I heard that music start I was too busy fixing my self a Harvey Wallbanger and getting the lint off my lounge suit..... :roll:
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I generally use hole saws in the mill mounted on a mandrel I built. Sometimes I use the abrasive saw using angled cuts.
I now see what I REALLY NEED!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Good subject, and something I've struggled with for years. Recently I made a fixture to mount the tube to my rotary table. A bi-metal hole saw mounted in the mill-drill does the cutting.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m68/Whizzbang02/Bonneville%202010/100_4432.jpg)
I bought a cad program to help design my frame. (I've always been a "Hume Cad" kind of guy myself, but am being won over by this technology now. :evil: ) If anyone is interested the program I'm using is Alibre Design and is pretty easy to learn. Once the tube is designed the program lets me find the angles and offsets that I need to cut the tubes.
I found the real benefit to this in the downtubes on the frame I'm building now. The joint at the neck is off center on each side and they meet the lower tubes at an angle. With this set up and an electronic protractor mounted perpendicular to the tube centerline for rotational angle reference I was able to cut them to fit properly in just a few minutes on the first try, with no scrapped parts or hand fitment required.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m68/Whizzbang02/Bonneville%202010/100_4435.jpg)
It worked out really well for me and save a lot of time. I am able to get precision offsets and angles with the calibrations on the mill table and the rotary table. The electronic protractor on the tube requires a little finesse to get the tube clamped in the fixture in the proper position but isn't too bad.
I haven't been able to find anything on the market that is affordable to the home builder to do this kind of tube notching, so maybe this will help someone.
BAILEIGH, if your company comes out with a similar set up after seeing this, I expect a royalty, or at least a complimentary sample :evil: , and a donation to SSS for the site. :cheers:
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I'm still trying to master crown moldings.
Stan
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Interesting looking build Whizzbang. Keep those pictures coming.
Pete
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Good subject, and something I've struggled with for years. Recently I made a fixture to mount the tube to my rotary table. A bi-metal hole saw mounted in the mill-drill does the cutting.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m68/Whizzbang02/Bonneville%202010/100_4432.jpg)
I bought a cad program to help design my frame. (I've always been a "Hume Cad" kind of guy myself, but am being won over by this technology now. :evil: ) If anyone is interested the program I'm using is Alibre Design and is pretty easy to learn. Once the tube is designed the program lets me find the angles and offsets that I need to cut the tubes.
I found the real benefit to this in the downtubes on the frame I'm building now. The joint at the neck is off center on each side and they meet the lower tubes at an angle. With this set up and an electronic protractor mounted perpendicular to the tube centerline for rotational angle reference I was able to cut them to fit properly in just a few minutes on the first try, with no scrapped parts or hand fitment required.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m68/Whizzbang02/Bonneville%202010/100_4435.jpg)
It worked out really well for me and save a lot of time. I am able to get precision offsets and angles with the calibrations on the mill table and the rotary table. The electronic protractor on the tube requires a little finesse to get the tube clamped in the fixture in the proper position but isn't too bad.
I haven't been able to find anything on the market that is affordable to the home builder to do this kind of tube notching, so maybe this will help someone.
BAILEIGH, if your company comes out with a similar set up after seeing this, I expect a royalty, or at least a complimentary sample :evil: , and a donation to SSS for the site. :cheers:
Ha ha....no worries.
Here is our newest offering to the tube notching community. http://www.bii1.com/notchers/tube-notcher-tn250.php
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Neat program on laying out pipe notching pattern. Do you have something similar for figuring out the before notched tube length?
Thanks
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Yes sir!
http://www.bii1.com/benders/tube-bending-layout-software.php
:cheers:
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If you have a steady base like a mill or can jig up to a mag-drill I like to use a Rotabroach personally.
Much like a mill cutter but with the center missing. Makes a very clean round cut in tube or plate.
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Does anyone make "fine" tooth bimetalic hole saws?
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(http://people.montana.com/~kaparich/holesaw.jpg)
We used a holesaw on a drill press . Worked well for our purposes and was cheap! You can see the quality of the fit in the picture below.
(http://people.montana.com/~kaparich/fit.jpg)
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Chaz:
Nice cuts! What rpm were you turning that hole saw??
Mike
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after cutting a basic size / length / angle with a common endmill in the milling machine,
I have been using a cheapie vertical ocillating sander that uses a tubular roll originally made for wood working..
...... been doing it this way for many years to maker the final fit just right.
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Chaz:
Nice cuts! What rpm were you turning that hole saw??
Mike
Hi Mike...
I have a variable speed press, so I cant tell you the RPM's exactly, but it is cut at a very slow speed. I'm guessing about 100 RPM or so
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Thanks Baileigh Inc. Just purchased the Bend-Tech Pro. Now I guess it's time for some serious reading and hopefully learning.
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Thanks Baileigh Inc. Just purchased the Bend-Tech Pro. Now I guess it's time for some serious reading and hopefully learning.
Right on, keep us posted on your progress. Bend Tech rules! :mrgreen:
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Did some test notches today for you guys......
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0915.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0914.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0911.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0910.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0907.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0902.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0918.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0903.jpg)
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/IMG_0917.jpg)
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Anyone notching on a bend?
(http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv302/Baileigh_Industrial/2011-11-11150810.jpg)