Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Nexxussian on March 26, 2009, 08:32:56 PM
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Hello everyone, as some of you may have read in the intro section, my father bought the #559 Berkeley (formerly # 907) From Charles Hornbrook at Speed Week '08. Or as I jokingly tell people here "I left him unattended and he bought a car." :-D
Here's Pop's in the Berkeley at a friend's house (before we got it home to Alaska, yes really).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley008-1.jpg)
We are currently in the process of going through the car and perfroming the combination of maintenance and modification we believe it needs to both fit us and "safely" go faster. Pop's and I both plan to drive it @ Speed Week '09, yes, I've sent off my membership re-up :-). As for the safely being in quotes, well, it is racing, and therefore inherently unforgiving, but we don't see the need to take any unnecessary risks. :wink:
I titled the thread as a tune up as it is a running driving car that has successfully passed tech at Bonneville with the previous owner (yes, I see the part of the rule book that says it doesn't matter for the next tech, but I figure it has to be better off than an initial 'cold' tech). Our primary goal (after making it there safely and passing tech, those are goals too after all) is to run the car and try and figure out what it wants so it can go faster. We have found a few things already that we think will help, I will elaborate when my currently flaking out (variable bandwidth, not to the good either :roll: ) Internet connection lets me upload the pictures (as I figure the descriptions are worthless without pictures :-D ).
So we are limiting the mechanical work (at this point) to cleanup and repair work of what's there and the modifications required to get us both to fit. I have longer legs than Pops does, so we are building an adjustable pedal setup out of the pedals that came with the car.
I welcome input on what you see here in this thread, especially from any of the tech officials :-D .
To those of you that have already answered questions I have asked via PM, thank you.
I hope to get to meet some of you fine people at Speed Week '09
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Nex, working on it is half the fun, running it makes it worth it. Have fun getting ready and looking forward to meeting you and Pop, join us on the Tuesday night chat line.
:cheers:
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Erik, that's a good looking car. I are impressed. :wink: Glen, Erik and his Pop have been to my house here in Utah and are good humans. I'm glad to see them here. Wayno
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Is this the car with the engine along side the driver?
Jim
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Yeah, the flexplate is just aft of my knees (so the engine is still 'front', sort of).
Wayno, good to be here, watching the net, seeing the volcano spout. :roll: C-mmmon rain! (washes the ash out of the air :-D)
Yeah, we're having fun working on it.
We have the pedals mostly sorted out (we think) just have to work out the connections.
We think we have the throttle sorted out. We need a new cable as the one we have is too short for the new routing. We found most of the pieces at the local Hog shop, planning on a clutch cable sheath with 3/32nds cable (at this point). Now we just have to sort out the ends (thinking of using a sealed ball bearing for the sheath mount at the pedal end, so it won't bind when you slide the pedals).
We are reusing the clutch cable at this point (with a few minor mods to it's mount).
The brake is in work as well, we have a Wilwood MC that was in our Model A (the one we went to see Wayno in, we swapped it out for a different bore size). We also have a couple of the two piston Wilwood calipers and some bolt on rotors, so we are working on mounting a new rotor to the rear. The old one is on the pinion yoke, we're planning on puthing the new one back there. We're replacing the old one as it's warped and thin enough we doubt we cold get it to stay straight after fixing it.
I have pictures of most of that, in my home computer, I'm at work now, we are standing by to see how much ash we get and how long the eruption is (what, you thought I was kidding earlier? :? ).
I do have pictures of the header though, cool lookin' little thing.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/BerkeleyHeader001.jpg)
Complete with 1 Qt bottle of Mobile 1 ATF for scale. :-D
It's in pretty good shape, planning on sending it out to have it blasted and coated, worst corrosion we found on it isn't bad at all. :-)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/BerkeleyHeader004.jpg)
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Well, I have a few more pictures.
A fella over on the HAMB suggested this might be a Citroen / Renault / Peugeot Mi16 2.0. The description fits (2.0, Iron block, DOHC, belt drive, 8 exhaust ports).
See what you think.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley017.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley014-1.jpg)
One of the distributor (Chevy II I'm guessing, with what I think is a Chrysler Mag trigger inside).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley029.jpg)
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hi
I'm working on a photography project about LSR cars and the people involved with them. So far your the only one I have found who also is in Anchorage, AK. I would like to meet and see and you car. Send me a PM and I'll send my contact info. Look forward to hearing from you.
jim
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Not much to shoot at the moment as the car's apart.
But I'm willing to talk to you, so I'll PM anyway.
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I had a Berkeley Street Car, tons of fun.
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I have a little experience with the Mi16 (very little).
The person you mentioned that suggested it was a Mi16 is correct.
BTW:
For whatever its worth I always thought Honda copied a bunch of this motor for their D/B series engines.
~JH
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JH thanks, I haven't heard back from the fella since I posted pics over there.
Yes Berks look like a scream to drive, especially if you shoehorn some modern power in there. :evil:
Picked up the new pinion yokes today and took them to the machine shop. We are re-doing the brake mount (it came to us with one disc on the pinion yoke).
I just got done cutting some blanks to have machined to fit the Yokes (after they're trued) .
Anybody know if a late '70s Cellica ever had vented front brakes (or ones that would bolt on)? I've got new discs but they're solid. Probably not a problem for heat rejection as the car was run before with less than that (for brakes) but I guess the old road racer in me wants bigger binders. :evil:
Not that I expect to need them at B-Ville. :roll:
Of course then I suppose I would have to account for some kind of pumping loss (if I came up with a vented rotor). :?
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You must have too much time on your hands or you are building a combination road race Bonneville car. The only thing I worry about my drum brakes is that they don't drag.
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We are kind of set up the same way Rich is. Drum brakes only in the back, operated by a hand lever. It provides enough force to lock up the rear brakes on salt, so I figure that's enough. My only concern about brakes is having enough brakes to slow it down if there is a fire. I actually prefer to have brakes that aren't sensitive since I don't have the reflexes of an F1 driver.
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Combo road / B-Ville racer.
Good one. :-D
No just one disc, mounted to the pinion yoke, 1 small caliper with a pad the size of a Stanley 'diameter scale' (# 33-115).
We are replacing the previous brake (same kind of setup, different pieces) due to the disc being warped (and a concern we wouldn't be able to keep it from warping again) and the caliper that was in use previously was draging on the rotor (it's got a 'floater' brakcet it slides on, that's what was draging).
So we are going back with new stuff in hopes of not having the drag issue it had before.
Primarily we are using these because we had the discs (new, in the box) and the calipers (ditto) so we figured that would be the simplest, as we don't know yet what axle ends are on the 7 1/4 to source drum assemblies.
And the thought of spares in hand if anything screwed up was somewhat reassuring as well.
I appreciate the input though, thank you both.
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New pit-chures.
First one, Look Ma, no gaps.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1238895806.jpg)
What offset?
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1238895557.jpg)
Next are a series that shows the adjustable pedal at the current level of completion.
This is the left side pedal assembly slider rail, laid roughly in place as it would be in the car, except in the car it would be turned 90* so the 'bend' would be down.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1238897148.jpg)
Next is the upper slider rail bracket on the right side (apparently forgot to take a picture of the left one :oops:) notice 2 bolt holes 90* apart, 5/16" grade 8 if you're wondering.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley051.jpg)
At the firewall (16 gauge steel) is the slider rail receiver socket, this is the left side as well.
Note, the square hole is to pass the clutch cable and bracket through in the forward position, we are sussing out a boot to seal this.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley055.jpg)
Here is a side view of what it would look like in the car, notice the 'high tech' 'space age' 'race weight' aluminum support brace to the right of the pic. :wink:
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1238897150.jpg)
And finally a top view showing the pedal assembly slider roughly aligned with the holes in the rail (left side again, convenient as it were). We are hoping to use 5/16 lynch pins, but if tech says no then we will make sure to have bolts on hand. The rail is 1/8 wall 1" square tube, the slider is 1/4" wall 1 1/4" square tube. Fits together much better than it sounds.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1238897151.jpg)
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More pictures.
We got the new pinion flanges back from the machine shop and the brake is mounted.
We know we'll have to take the caliper off to bleed it, but this was the only practicable way (and it's fairly easy to remove, we'll just have to bring a piece of metal as thick as the rotor).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240073524.jpg)
The big stir here though is the new injector parts are here. :-D
OOOO Shiney
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240073521.jpg)
I expect we'll have to trim them a bit. :wink:
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240073859.jpg)
Work progresses, I figured I was due to post an update.
More when I get more pictures.
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As promised I took a few more so here they are.
I have the Hilborn off at the moment so I had to see what it looked like with the 4 new stacks in. :-D
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240156460-1.jpg)
I was somewhat surprised to see the 'high fiber' gasket.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240155463.jpg)
I guess I should credit whomever put it there for insulating the injector assembly from heat transfer (it is fairly thick). :-)
As the Hilborn is fairly large there was a fair amount of grinding done to make the ports match, just for reference to the right is a dowel that used to locate the factory manifold, one side of it is gone as the port wall has been removed there.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240153987.jpg)
I suppose next year we will have to see if we can get the rest of each port to flow that much. :-D
This year we are going to run it as is (well, I might have to find another ceral box to make a new gasket out of :wink: ).
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Your Hilborn set up looks very much like the setup that I have on my street roadster except that mine is electronic and it looks like yours is mechanical. I find it interesting that the guy fabraciated the adapter manifold so that the injector bodies clamp directly to the manifold as there is a big chance that this set up could put some additional stress that can make the throttle shaft want to bend and possibily stick. One of the things that you will find with the Hilborn shaft being straight thru is that you cannot get the engine to idle well as you will have one butterfly that is closed and the rest of them can be slightly open and there is no adjustment. I have cut the shaft between the no. 2 and 3 injector and added a small flex coupling it helped but I need to to it between all of the injectors. The real trick is to use the Kinsler adjustable coupler that allows you to adjust each throttle independently but they are about $75 each. My injectors actually are connected to my intake manifold by heavy duty hose and clamps this is the way Hilborn recommends.
Neat project and engine. I remember seeing this car several years ago and it was pretty fast so it looks like you will have fun.
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Yes, that's how they reccomend it now, I remember seeing these in an older catalog.
I suspect Hilborn discovered (if they didn't already know) exactly what you mention as I see the on line catalog shows a 'spigot mount' like a motorcycle uses (which is what you appear to have).
I also suspect that at one time there were likely sanctioning bodies that wouldn't accept any kind of hose in the intake tract downstream of the butterflies (if at all), hence the existence of throttle bodies like these.
These are manufactured to clamp to the tubes directly and the part that clamps down to retain it on the tube (more than the o ring inside does) is part of the casting each throttle body is made of.
Yes, the '09 rule book still lists his 'I' class record as being current. To my knowledge it hasn't gone that fast since the re power. :-(
We're working on that. :-)
Priorities at this point run:
1. Safety
2. Mechanical reliability
3. Speed
Nothing real major on the first two, not much more than off season maintenance type stuff. We'll see about the 3rd.
Thanks for the pictures.
Oh, yes ours is still mechanical.
00 pump
4BS nozzles
085 pill
Newly installed 171 rotor (or is that 177 :? I don't have that in front of me at the moment, it's what Hilborn reccomended).
SHINY new ram stacks. :-D :-D :-D :-D
Yes I keep coming back to that, c-mon, they're new (to me anyway) they're shiny, what's not to like? :-D 8-)
Now I just gotta figure out how long the intake ports are in the head, so I can do the math to figure out how long the ram stacks need to be (I can't leave them as long as they are, they would intrude into the driver's compartment :-( ).
Perhaps after I get the stubs rolled over in the mount plate so I can mount the throttle assembly right side up (the nozzles pass through the intake stubs they are mounted to). I have it apart now, it was held together with epoxy, can't be all bad, it took a torch and a chain wrench to get it apart. :-o
I'm alodining the pieces before I stick them back together. Mount plate already is, I have a bit more cleaning to do on the stubs before I treat them.
Pics of all this as soon as I get them onto Photobucket.
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New pics.
First I have a picture of one of the throttle housings that shows the pinch clamp, O ring and the nozzle bore.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240373413.jpg)
Next I have a picture of the intake adapter, or as I've come to call it the 'stub plate' before I took it apart.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240331999-1.jpg)
Finally (for today) I have a picture of the intake mount plate after I alodined it. Not perfect, still has several marks, but I'm going more for function and both epoxy and paint should stick quite well to this now.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240373870.jpg)
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I'm not surprised at the Cheerios gasket material, I've made lots of gaskets out of all kinds of cardboard. I guess, that's common for us hillbillys.
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Hey, that was a quality name brand gasket, not one of those cheap generic substitutes.
Pete
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Yeah, I was just funnin'. :-D
I usually see them made from beer boxes though. :?
More pics soon (have to upload them first).
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Ah HA, upload complete. :-D
Here's the plate and the stubs just sitting together with the nozzle bores visible in the stubs.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240625092.jpg)
The epoxy is curing in this one.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240625751.jpg)
That's wax paper to keep the epoxy from bonding the stub plate to the head.
If you look real close you can see the reflection of the inside of the stub through the nozzle bore of the 2nd TB from the left (FWIW on this Cit/Pug engine that's cylinder #3, yes really).
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Oh, I almost forgot, as best I can measure the short side of the intake ports measures 2 3/4" (just under 70mm) and the long way round (from the seat along the roof of the port) measures 3 3/4" (just over 95 mm) for an average port length (best I can tell) of 3 1/4" (82.5 mm).
With the stub length, port length (I'm using the average) and the internal length of the throttle bodies that means according to my calculations that to tune the intake for say 6900 (as the PO says it 'quits' at 6800) that leaves a roughly 4" (101.6mm) ram stack sticking out the front of the TB's to give a 12 3/16" (309.25mm, yeah, like I'm gonna achieve the accuracy of 2 places behind the decimal on a mm) tuned length.
If anyone sees a glaring error with my math or method, pleae tell me.
This is the length I'm cogitating on using for intial setup (ie as it would arrive a B-ville) and tune from there (if we get the far).
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Cogitating?....is that like .....getting yr (gear)teeth into something? you're not mucking around are you , nice work
since when did you guys talk mm?
keep it up, :wink:
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Cogitate (codge ehh tate, at least where I'm from), to think deeply or mull over.
Or as Webster says: http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/cogitate
mm? Since the US Congress voted to convert to metric in (IIRC) 1976 (err, maybe it was '73??), it's why California still gets federal highway dollars, and doesn't actually HAVE to post MPH speed limit signs (even though they do MOST places I've been there).
That and some good blokes from down your way are offering assistance with this enigma of a motational unit we have, so I figure it's only fair for me to share with them as well. :-)
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Man ! ..I love that car.
Slightly small and slightly weird.
It looks just great.
All the best of luck with it!
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Thanks, yeah it's small.
But I still fit, sort of. :-D
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:-D Small dont make yall wiered, does it? Crow or is it , weird? I dont know ... I be just, weeerd! Crow
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:-D Small dont make yall wiered, does it? Crow or is it , weird? I dont know ... I be just, weeerd! Crow
I believe it's 'wierd' and no, not amongst this crowd. :lol:
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I've been trying to upload a picture of the plate with one of the stubs in it. Can't get it to happen, so I'll do something else (and then it will likely work, that's how it goes isn't it?).
One stub as the epoxy I first used didn't hold on the other 3, and 1 out of 4 is terrible. :x
I went back to the old standby, JB weld. It appears to have worked (at least so far). It's too runny so I had to bond it with the stubs vertical.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/1240725946.jpg)
So I had it on that piece of wax paper and puckeyed the ID of the bores in the plate, and the OD of the stubs and pushed the stubs through the bores with the TB's on for alignment.
Then, just before I set it in front of the heater, I peeled the waxed paper off that I assembled it on, so I wouldn't have to grind out as thick of a 'donut' after the JB set.
Some time with a large flat file has the gasket surface serviceable again and a half round took care of the ID of the stubs.
On to further assembly. :-)
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Not a lot of progress today, but here's a pic of the injector assembly with the support straps and new hardware (o rings and screws).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley160.jpg)
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A little more progress today, I did a comopression test on the engine. perhaps not stellar #s but serviceable (somewhat better than I expected).
I also have all the fuel lines out of the car now so I can replace the hose sections and re-route as required to suit rolling the injector assembly right way up.
More 2 morrow.
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I must say I really enjoy seeing another MS on the builds.
In truth I am really impressed with your work so far. Initially when I saw this car was headed to Alaska I figured this build was going to be full of things like bear skins for gaskets, feathers for throttle blades and fishing line for throttle cable!
Just funnin’
~JH
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Uh-huh, I see how ya' are. :-D
More progress, the pump is cleaned up, inlet and outlet fitting O-rings are new, swapped the bypass fitting side for side (this pump has 3 outlets, 1 plugged, 1 to the metering valve, 1 to the bypass) and should be able to eliminate 2 ea 90* turns from that line. :-D
The fuel screen (filter) assembly is clean and has new o-rings (the long blue one Hilborn sells) and I'm fabbing new supply and return lines for it (some are done, some are not).
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Decided on a bit of a break and helped the local car club at a show. Not much accomplished today, but I'm not done yet.
I did however get the oil changed in the engine and a fresh filter on. Plan is currently to get the engine warm and change th oil again (maybe twice) as it was fairly dirty and heavily diluted (the oil smells like the fuel in the cell, and @ 40wt & cold pours like 5W30 hot :-o).
Dissected the oil filter, no drama there.
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The schedule this week just went nuts (about 9 hours ago :roll:) , I'm gonna try and get as much done as I can and post as I go.
I got most of the plumbing done for the Hilborn. I haven't put the end fittings on the two return hoses, as they don't fit through the shield tube I have with the ends on, I still have to bend the tubes to fit that since of the driver's compartment.
I was doing most of this when I was tired so I forgot to get pics, I'll remedy that as soon as I can. :-)
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Attended a wedding today (not mine) so I didn't personally accomplish anything on the car :-( but I helped with a few small items. :-)
Dad got the driveshaft back in today with fresh grease and the trans is buttoned back up with a fresh filter, 3 pints of Mobil 1 ATF and all the rust off the pan.
We are working on getting the new seat belts adjusted at the anchor ends to where we are both in the range of adjustment on the 'in service' adjusters (part of what I helped with, yes it's not much).
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I got the rest of the shield tubes bent up and the ends relieved (I try to put a bell on each end so if the hose works relative to the tube, the end of the tube won't dig into the hose).
Should have them secured tomorrow. Pics then , hopefully.
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After foraging for parts all day Saturday (got another 7 1/4 W/ a 3.23 in it :-), 3.55 currently in the car) and yard work for Mom most of Sunday I finally got the shield tubes secured (almost) today. Naturally I went back and didn't like one of the tubes so I fabbed a new one, and then had exactly enough screws -1 (1/4 20 button heads, so the heads won't gouge you if you rub up against them Ill get another plus a few spares today).
I have 3 more hose clamps to put on and the fuel plumbing will be finished (one of these days I have got to get more pictures :roll:).
I installed the studs I got to mount the injector assembly to the head, the ones along the top are too short. :-( I'll get some longer ones today. I already have some snazzy nuts for them, they are the ones that have the captured washers on the nuts already (keeps me form dropping just the one :wink:).
I realised that I haven't been regularly posting Pop's progress, I didn't mean to make this sound like a 1 man 'team'. :oops:
He so far has gotten the new SFI 45.1 roll bar padding installed, the new seat belts are in with the new anchor for the non 'Y' type shoulder belts (only a few minor adjustments left, on what we have). We are waiting on a 2 point sub belt as we got to looking at the rule book and we think that when I'm in the car it looks more like the picture that says we have to have a 6 point belt, so as soon as that gets here we can do final adjustment on all that.
He has the driveshaft back in, with fresh grease in the U joints.
He also has the new fuel cell cap assembly installed (it had the 'aircraft' style flush cap, too big a PITB to work with, replaced it with a 'D' ring or 'bail' style cap, much better :-) ).
I did help, I cleaned out the roll over vent valve, and found a shiny new ball bearing that fit the valve to replace the rusty and heavily pitted old one, I tried it with the old check ball and it didn't seal with just a tablespoon or so of fluid at the bench :-o (just the top of the valve upside down, no head pressure and it didn't slow it down very much) it works good now :-). I reinstalled that too.
So we have progress, just not as much as we would like (go figure :roll: ).
So as soon as the new nozzle hoses get here we can fire it back up to do the oil change. We have 10W40 and a fresh filter on it now we plan to flush it with that, maybe twice, then put the race oil in, leaning towards 40Wt Mobil 1 race oil.
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More progress, if only small.
The feed line to the pump and the bypass return are finished and leak checked (ran the pump with a drill and a felt polishing bob).
No leaks in either and the new quick change pill holder seems to work. :-)
The Metering Valve return hose is completed, but until I get the nozzle hoses back I can't leak check it, or the feed line from the pump shutoff to the metering valve. :-(
Really looking forward to that, especially since we will be able to run it immediately after the leak check. Nothing like re-firing the engine to help maintain the motivational quotient. :-D
Bought some gasket material today, heavy cardstock like stuff used to make flange gaskets for pipelines (those that still have flanges). It's 1/16" thick (just over 1.5 mm) and 'non compresable' (per it's manufacturer) as well as being a royal pain to carve to size. :-(
Oh well, I wanted something durable and thick enough to help keep the heat transfer to the injector assembly down. :|
I have pics in the camera, I'll have to see about getting them uploaded today.
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Pictures are up. :-)
First I have pictures of the shield tubes I've been blathering on about.
By the engine (didn't realise it, but you can just see the one for the feed line as well).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley165.jpg)
Here's how I got 'around' the shifter.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley166.jpg)
And back at the cell,...
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley167.jpg)
The red 'bands' on the tank ends of the shield tubes are pieces of heat shrink tubing. I expect the longer unsupported hose runs to move somewhat more relative to the shield tubes so I added the heat shrink in addition to belling the ends of the tube (the front ends of the tube are belled as well, but the shorter run, from a solid mount to a solid mount shouldn't 'work' relative to each other much, if at all). I'm still debating whether or not to heat shrink some heater hose to the cell end of the shield tubes to add a little more support.
I see that's not the best picture as at the odd angle I apparently chose to take the shot the hose routing looks, well, odd.
The bypass return (with the quick change pill holder) is lower in the tank than the metering valve return, as Hilborn told me to run the two separate if I could, and keep each as close to level with their respective discharge points (ie bypass return at the same height as the bypass outlet port on the pump, same for the metering valve).
Some of Pop's work, first is the new, easier to use' fuel cell cap.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley168.jpg)
Now the new shoulder belt anchor.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley173.jpg)
My apologies for the skewed angle on that last one (I was a bit tired when I took all of these) the mount is level in the car.
I tried to get a decent picture of the padding, but none of the shots came out. Hard to shoot black padding on black cage tubes and get enough contrast so you can see both, without washing the picture out. :-(
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Roughed in a gasket, figured out to give up on gasket punches and razor blades the new material is just too tough for them. My pocket knife does a fair job as I can put some body weight behind it.
Pics soon.
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Roughed out gsket picture.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley176.jpg)
Yes, I'll have to clean the nozzles, again. Oh well.
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Roughed in a gasket, figured out to give up on gasket punches and razor blades the new material is just too tough for them. My pocket knife does a fair job as I can put some body weight behind it.
I have found golden grahams gasket material really easy to cut!
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs025.snc1/4268_1150732404539_1114496579_30476459_915618_n.jpg)
Sorry Eric....just an other lame attempt at humor~
Keep up the good work.
~JH
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:roll: You funny guy. :-P
So what is that, a layer with Photoshop?
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You funny guy.
So what is that, a layer with Photoshop?
You would be correct.
All joking aside Photoshop has been very useful for examples in LSR. Truth be known while it was retarded that I shopped another cereal box for a gasket if you really had a question that needed explanation a pic it is certainly easier onion skinning a PS layer then cutting an actual box!
~JH
I am wondering if you have designs for a different motor in the future?
Not that there is anything wrong with the current mill but I could see that car doing some real damage with something like a 2JZ-GTE (this is the motor I would use if I had a front engine RWD) or maybe even something like the Honda S2K motor.
Just wondering.
~JH
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Trying this again. :?
I have the remains of a Quad 4 we used to race, I have been contemplating scrounging the billet rods and forged short stroke racing crank for it if we decide to stay in G class (have to see how the Cit / Pug engine develops).
If I wanted to go after G Blown (not currently, major case of flat wallet itis) I would likely try the SR20DET as I have been involved with them for a while. They make exceptional power when you don't screw up the tune. :roll:
But that's normal for just about everything these days.
Or perhaps one of the Ecotec drag engines (the ones that were claiming 1400 ish a few years ago). The big question would be how much would you have to detune it to get it to survive 12 X the distance (20 if I could get enough traction to qualify for the long course :lol: ).
The obvious question is where would we get the funds to do any of that?
Burn that bridge when we get there, eh? :evil:
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I got impatient today and fabbed a set of nozzle lines frome brake tubing and hydraulic fittings. Ugly, but it shoulnd't leak.
I hope to run it tommorrow.
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Oops, forgot to add, the hard lines are just temporary till the hoses get here, so I can run the engine.
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Engine Runs!!!!! :-D :-D :-D :-D
Much better than it did too.
Especially after putting the smallest pill I own in it and shortening the link rod between the barrel valve and the throttle shaft by a turn and a half. :-)
I like that Kinsler quick change pill holder too. :-)
But for now I'm out of race fuel. :-(
I figure I should run it on as close to what I'll be using on race day as I can.
I'll have to wait till Monday to be able to get more without taking the trip to the local drag strip (I can't afford to take the time at the moment).
Is it Monday yet? :wink:
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Cleaned the nozzles, got the MSD mounted again, hopping on one foot and the other waiting for the race shops to open so I can get more fuel. :roll:
I had to move the MSD because the throttle shaft is longer out that side and it was close enough that I didn't want to have to work in that cramped of a space it I had to make an adjustment, or change the throttle cable.
I drained the cooling system and I'm going to try running the engine with some vinegar in the cooling system to clean it out. A few cycles of that and lots of water afterwards should make for a clean system (or at least cleaner than it is now).
I hesitate to use any of the commercially available 'radiator flush' kits as they are fairly caustic.
Hopefully tomorrow I can get the stacks cut to length.
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So I got called in to work about 4 Hrs early on Monday and it screwed up my schedule all week. :roll:
Oh well.
I got the engine running with the vinegar in the cooling system (trying to clean it out, more on that later).
So I had this highly technical, 'high dollar' stationary cooling system for running the car while parked.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley179.jpg)
What, you were expecting a cooling tower maybe??
Not on this budget. :-P
So I heat cycled the engine several times (checking the level of vinegar each 'cold' part of the cycle) and I was able to clean the inside of the engine well enough to spring a leak on one of the expansion plugs on the cylinder head (it's later).
It was leaking from the inside radius of the cup plug itself.
Metric too.
Believe it or not, I found one (1) on a Friday night the weekend of Memorial Day in Anchorage Alaska. :-D
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley188.jpg)
For anyone that needs one, that's a Doorman part (evidently each Shucks / Orieley's here in town has one, I'll have to make the tour and see, as there are two more plugs like that on that side of the head).
Here's the bag it came in, sorry, I haven't quite mastered close ups of text.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley190.jpg)
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Got the other two, and flushed the engine with lots of water. Ewwww, you shoulda seen the muck that came out. :-o
The ram stacks are cut to length, I've taken my best guess (at this point) at 6900 RPM, now lets see if the body fits over that.
New hardware here and there.
I re-indexed the throttle plates (put loctite on the screws too) so I could turn the idle down. I wound up having to turn the idle up to 1500; with the throttle blades closed it wanted to try and idle just under 800, not quite fast enough to keep it running. :-)
All good so far.
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Erik,
Going on the basis that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask because it might make you look stupid, tell me how you re-indexed your throttle plates. I looked at you injection and it has a single throttle shaft, so what was the process?
I ask because my injector body is the same as yours and I cut the shaft in the middle and put in a small flex coupling which allows me to set the throttles plates on each side of it but I still cannot get my idle below 1400.
Dilute my ignorance.
Rex
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I loosened the hardware (2 screws per butterfly) and wiggled them around till they all agreed on what 'closed' was (still had the return springs on, with the idle stop screw backed out to the point of almost falling out).
I got quite allot of movement out of the shaft (several degrees) as I took the second screw loose for cylinder #4 (the forward most cylinder in the car on this particular engine family :roll:).
I'm sure removing and reassembling everything left something (apparently Cyl #4's) out of align somewhat. I wasn't sure I would get enough out of it with that, but I figured it was worth a try. It idles better and seems much more crisp on application of power (still no load though :-( no place long enough, and I'm really getting tired of the knuckleheads here saying 'why don't you take it to the strip?' maybe because you need to multiply the acceleration area by 12 to get what this car needs??? :-P ).
NEW PROGRESS
I haven't a picture yet but I have the new throttle cables fabricated (1 + a spare).
I will really have to post a picture as they are an odd conglomeration.
Starting at the go pedal it hooks on with a clevis pin (3/16") through a homemade swivel clevis to an aircraft 'stop' swage fitting (it's shaped like a ball with a tail) to aircraft cable (3/32" 7x7 flex) through a clip nut, then a Harley Davidson control end (take off, apparently not shiny enough for some :? ) then motorcycle control cable sheathing (Screaming Eagle brand if I remember the label on the roll correctly, note: per the rule book, NOT plastic lined sheath) then another swage on Aircraft end (this ones' threaded for a turnbuckle) threaded into a marine Morse type quick release ball and socket connection.
Pictures will make it better, I'm sure.
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Okay, pictures as promised.
First the pedal end, in this picture the cable is pushed out of the fitting (I'm calling that a 'swivel clevis' at this point) you can see the ball shaped stop fitting on the cable, the swivel clevis, the clip nut (it actually has a captured square nut on there) and the motorcycle contoll end.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley193.jpg)
Next I have the throttle end as a loose mock up, you can see the cable sheath and the threaded end swaged on the cable. I have next to the end the boot I intend to run on the cable and the marine 'Morse' type QD end (that one's still in the bag).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley203.jpg)
Here is a picture of the cable installed at the pedal end, note the bail is yet to be installed on the go pedal.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley198.jpg)
That leaves the throttle end, please ignore the current return spring setup and the metal nozzle lines, those will both change when the flex lines get back. Yes the wires will be secure before we leave.
Here it is attached
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley201.jpg)
And detached for a better look at the QD end and swage assembly.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley202.jpg)
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Rex --
Did you get my PM?
Stan
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Stan,
Yes I got it and thanks for the input. I am thinking that if I would loosen the butterfly retaining screws I would red loctite them before I ran the engine again. My little 4 cylinder is a pretty good shaker and I would think that Nexxussian you should loctite also.
Rex
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Already in there, but, thanks. :-D
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I didn't see any comments on the length of your intakes, so your calculations must be close. We must have used the same formula because my 1.9L Saturn ended out with 13" intake tracts. It was calculated at 6500 RPM. The throttle bodies are 46mm. Large for the state of tune.
You might check your roll over fuel stop. I rolled the tank over and it only worked when it was almost upside down.
Harvey
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Okayy, that's weird, lost an entry, I shall try again.
Hitz, if you mean the tank vent valve, I cleaned it and replaced the check ball after a bench test showed the crusty & rusty one that came out didn't seal off much smaller than stray children.
If you mean something else, let me know.
NEW PROGRESS
I anchored the cable so the throttle works (quite well too ).
I have finished (except for paint) the bake pedal and Master Cylinder mount.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley208.jpg)
I made the pedal so I could select between 3 ratios.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley210.jpg)
Tomorrow hopefully I can get the brakes plumbed, it's the last holdup for the wiring (I have that pre fabbed but I'm hung on the install till I can make sure I don't have to reroute it, again ).
NEW, NEW PROGRESS (as the previous is in effect a repost by me, probably operator error, by me :?).
I got the brake hoses ordered yesterday, and checked on the nozzle hoses as well. The nozzle hoses were expected yesterday, but nothing showed up, so hopefully this week.
Not much I know, but we are very close mechanically, on the car at least, so there isn't much left, mechanically. :wink:
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I was just thinking about where you guys are located and how many miles it is to Wendover????
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You should have a PM
Harv
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Harv, got it, you should have a reply.
GH According to Yahoo Maps, from where I'm sitting at the moment (not at home) and not the route I plan to take (I'm going through Medford, not SLC) it's 3139.76 Mi. each way.
As you can imagine, we're packing light and doing all the extra maint. to the tow vehicle we can think of to get better mileage. :roll:
Anybody know where I can get some ultra cheap diesel???
Yeah, I thought that would be a loOOOOOOong line, as usual, I'm late for it too. :wink:
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We paid as much as $4.50 for diesel last August, right now our diesel price is $2.19. Boy, you guys have a long drive.
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We paid as much as $4.50 for diesel last August, right now our diesel price is $2.19. Boy, you guys have a long drive.
:x Don't remind me, ours is still on the wrong side of $3, but nooooo, there's no 'price fixing' here (ya know there's a forum I frequent where they have a little red smiley shaking his fist and spewing every piece of punctuation available, kinda wish I had that to put here).
But I digress.
Yep, it's a long drive, looking forward to it (if for no other reason than it will get us out of town, wayyyy out of town :-D ).
NEW PROGRESS
I got the brake hoses yesterday, they are actually DOT certified, not necessary but I figure it won't hurt as I've used this brand before with success.
It is a Teflon hose with the braided stainless to hold the pressure and over that is a translucent jacket that fits snugly inside the strain relief at each end fitting (pics soon). Ours are red (the outer jacket is available in red, blue, grey, green and clear).
I anchored the clutch cable mount boss to the pedal assembly as well, so that leaves the hard line between the hoses and a mount tab for the rear hose (each hose has a bulkhead fitting that's 5/8 18 on the outside, so the tab will be a simple one with a clearance hole for said size).
I hope to get the hard line bent to fit and flared today. It would be bitchin to get both the tab and tube done as well, but I can't bet on that as weird stuff keeps cropping up pulling me away from the work. :roll:
Only so much left to do though, so it can't hold out on me forever. :evil:
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Pops has the 6 point belts in, neither of us liked how they looked, so I ordered a set of 7 point from Simpson yesterday.
Shold be here middle of next week, I hope.
I got the master cylinder rebuild kit late yesterday, hopefully I'll get it put together and in today.
Pops got the fire bottle pull cable bracket fabbed and installed yesterday.
Pics soon.
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Pops has been working on the tow rig.
I got the new ground cable in, and the cable from the battery to the kill switch in (just not hooked to the battery yet, it's charging).
I tried the starter after putting the new ground cable on, it cranks immediately now, used to hesitate and kind of amble up to speed. Not any more. :-)
I changed out some of the engine mount hardware and double checked it was tight.
I'm working on a shift light mount, almost done with that.
Not a super productive day, but I try to accomplish something on it every day.
Still planning to go out and tinker a bit more this evening.
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IIIIIt's pictures.
Okay, that sounded way more lame than I had hoped. :-(
Regardless, I have a few.
This is a top view of the driving space with the pedals fully forward. You can see the throttle cable, the M/C and hose, the fire pull handles, the tach/ shift light, starter button and ignition switch (the cover anyway) and the shut off cable.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley216.jpg)
We plan to put an Adel clamp on the cable to hold it to the upright you see here.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley219.jpg)
A Driver's eye view of the controlls (the two cables I'm holding out of the way are the fire extinguisher pull cable safety pin tethers, that's driver's compartment handle on the left, and engine compartment on the right, if you were wondering). On the lower left you can see the aluminum pull handle for the tank shutoff.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley218.jpg)
Here is a look at the fire bottles and the clutch cable boot (it's aircraft firesleeve, I needed it long as the cable jacket is anchored to the pedals so the whole cable assembly moves with them).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley213.jpg)
Here's the positive battery cable I was blathering about earlier, hard to see but it's there.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley224.jpg)
In case any of you were wondering what I'm on about a tow vehicle with a box and a ramp door.
Here's two of the door and the doorway. This is taken at approximately the approach and break over angle we hope to achieve when loading / unloading the car (we're planning on some ramps under the front tires of the truck as well as ramps off the back of the door, they're quite long).
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley226.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/nexxussian/Berkeley/Berkeley225.jpg)
The mess in there will be tidier and the Anglia hood halves won't be coming with us, the air compressor is where we plan for it to live though.
The door winch will be wired into the truck also (so no loose batteries in the floor).
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Brilliant !
Just need a couple of hammocks and you have place to sleep !
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Yeah, we were working on that at one point with the other truck. This one would need a door handle that opens from the inside, and then theres permission form the nice lady at lands end (and I don't see that happening :wink: :-().
Oh well.
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On the topic of transportation cost, I have never priced this but I figure it could be cheaper (and less stressful) to load the car and equipment in a shipping container and have it transported, dropped on the salt and fly down as apposed to driving. The loss of money from time off work, fatigue, cost of fuel, hotels, food and wear on the vehicle seems like it would add up real quick for driving.
I was thinking about buying a shipping container anyway……
Maybe this would be an option for me in the next year or so.
~JH
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JH,
You need to be on the salt when it is delivered and make sure where it's placed is OK with SCTA. These truckers just want to drop them and get on the road. It would also depend if it was a roll off or required a large fork lift at your expense. The roll off can damage the salt if soft in the area you select. Another problem is if (God forbid )it rains and the trucker won't come on the salt to pick it up. Just something to think about.
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Harv, got it, you should have a reply.
GH According to Yahoo Maps, from where I'm sitting at the moment (not at home) and not the route I plan to take (I'm going through Medford, not SLC) it's 3139.76 Mi. each way.
Holy long haul Batman!!!! :-o :-o
and I thought we had it bad ,
Good progress Air Wick.
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We've been considering the 'ship it down' thing, and if the numbers come up right, we will ship it to Tacoma , may even ship it back from Tacoma, if the price isn't too steep (the price Northbound tends to be about 3 times the price Southbound :-( ).
A 'connex' or cargo container is a wonderfull storage shed (we have one). I know people that use them for a worksop even, but Glen is right, and renting a helicopter to sling it out of there after it sinks a foot and a half would be ridiculously expensive (CH-53 maybe?).
Then there's the whole tie down thing, as you would have to anchor everything like you planned on it traveling on all 6 sides. :-o
The big hang up is we aren't using the Isuzu as a Push Vehicle.
Uptight I know, but we prefer something a touch more maneuverable, hence the Tracker (that and it flat tows excellently).
That makes for 2 vehicles and we don't know as yet how much that is going to cost 'extra'.
Hence the plan to build everything to be able to make the round trip through Canada, as it might have to. :roll:
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Harv, got it, you should have a reply.
GH According to Yahoo Maps, from where I'm sitting at the moment (not at home) and not the route I plan to take (I'm going through Medford, not SLC) it's 3139.76 Mi. each way.
Holy long haul Batman!!!! :-o :-o
and I thought we had it bad ,
Good progress Air Wick.
Yeah, it's 'far, far away'. :-D
You funny guy. :roll:
I do try. :-D
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Just be sure you have your passport now so you can get back into your own country. Hate to see you stranded here with us! :-D :evil:
Pete
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Got one for the last trip through there, nothing like being 'sequestered' (trapped) in a secure gate in Vancouver (not WA, trip before that) because AK airlines couldn't find Sea-Tac. :roll:
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Back in the "dark ages" when I was working on a race team we did some races in Canada at Mosport and as I remember our truck driver had to have a list of everything in the truck, tools, tires, spares etc before the the Canadian customs would let us in and then they wanted to make sure that we didn't sell anything in Canada. Any way it was a pain in the a$$. Do you have to do something similar?
Rex
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We used to do the same thing so that we could bring back everything we took down without hassle. I haven't taken race cars across the line for about 10 years now. We bought the last cars down there and left them in the USA. It was much easier than the alternative of importing them because the American laws require that cars being exported have a title. Indy cars don't normally come with one! Taxes and such really add to the cost and we had a place to store and work on the cars in Indianapolis so we left the cars down there.
Pete
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We have had good luck having Customs install a seal on the 'car hauling' part of the truck (curb and ramp door, 1 ea). That cuts alot of the BS.
It helps not to look like you are some racing tycoon (avoid puting the decals on the truck, we don't have sponsors so that's easy).
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New seat belts showed up yesterday. :-)
They're purty. :-D
Pops has them mocked up and we will hopefully have them anchored today (we only have to anchor the 5th, 6th & 7th points as the lap and shoulder belts are going back where they were).
It has the sternum belt we ordered as well.
I have the most difficult part of the wiring finished, hope to have the rest completed today.
Still waiting for nozzle hoses, I figure the quickest way to make them show up at this point is to order replacements from Hilborn. :roll:
Hopefully they'll be here Monday, I'll likely order a set Monday morning regardless as at this point, I can't wait anymore.
If I wind up with 2 sets, then I'll just have spares.
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Pops has the new seat belt anchors / reinforcements in.
I have the cockpit wiring complete.
So with just a bit of cleanup we should be down to bodywork.
And the tow rig of course. :roll:
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Erik - don't underestimate the tow rig importance! On our most recent trip I not only destroyed our push bumper, I bent it under the truck until the front wheels were off the ground. I know the end of the road can deteriorate during the week, but I guess I was excited we had the car in impound. It turns out I was blessed to have Skip Hedrich be the truck right behind me when it happened. He didn't know me but he stopped to help me out. I told him I would be fine getting the truck going, but I whined about having the car in impound that would REALLY need a push in the morning. His liner was broken by then and he volunteered to meet us at the 7 am start to push us off. With his wife and dog in tow, he pushed us off for the back up run.
We learned a few things about that trip. Don't use a drive line set up that allows you to run 175 in first gear, and make your push bumper so that it can be raised for in town driving.
Also, Skip, his wife, and their dog are good folks.
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Definitely good to know.
We are using an Isuzu NPR box truck to haul the Berkeley to / from the salt. I'm working on that currently installing a 'new' turbo, the old one died a horrible death induced by boost and drive pressure leaks, gotta hand it to the Garret engineers though, even as horribly destroyed as the turbo was, it was TRYING to make boost.
I have a slightly larger Holset to install (on the recommendation of people that work with these engines). The extra size should allow for some more power at altitude. To be clear that's not 'more power' per se, just the ability to maintain factory power to a higher altitude, we had an older one of these in the states in '96, it ran ALL the way out of power by 3500 feet, 2nd gear @ less than 15 MPH climbing a hill blowing large black clouds of diesel smoke is not my idea of a safe trip (kinda glad in retrospect I didn't have a pyrometer on that trip, I would've scared myself :-D).
The push rig is planned to be a Geo Tracker, they flat tow well (we have the tow bar from the last time we did it) they're cheap (we have 3 in pieces), and much more manoverable for the trip to and from the hotel than the NPR.
I'll see what I can do about the articulated push bumper, that's a heck of an idea, thanks.
I ordered replacement hoses for the injector assembly earlier this week from Hilborn directly (I've given up on the supplier I went through 6 weeks ago :-( ).
I'll go put those on, it'll make me feel better about that anyway.
That will eliminate several stumbling blocks I've had as I've had to work around the hard lines I hurriedly fabbed to get the engine running again. The header is off for repaint, we had hoped to have it coated, but we likely aren't going to have time, so we're trying POR 20 for the first time (the can claims good to 1400 if installed correctly). I hope it's as good as the POR 15 we like.
Have to wait and see what the finish looks like when we are done, I'm hoping for 'rust resistant' more than anything else.
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Finally, I've got positive progress to report (sort of).
I've been working on the transport vehicle since the last post, it's doing much better for the attention (or at least I like to think so).
I have the last bit of the wiring tidied up, the injector assembly is back on and leak free, and the body is back on for the first time in months. :-D
Not quite as far along as it initially sounds, as we are going to have to clearance the body for the tach/shift light before the top half of the body will mesh properly with the bottom half (it's high in the right rear by almost 2" (5 cm roughly).
Hopefully finish the Berk (as finished as it will be for this speed week anyway) this weekend, I hope.
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Pops has the body to where it clears the tach, we have the injector stacks back in (had them off to put the body on, weren't sure they would clear). Tank vent is sorted, hope to have the windscreen today and that will likely be it for this year.
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Prepped 'er for transport today, hope to load in the morning, pics of that, maybe (if it's rainin I'm leavin' the camera inside the house).
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Come on down Erik. I'll see you at the Salt. Wayno
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Lookin' forward to it Wayno.
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The menageri is on the boat, should be on the water as soon as the boat 'sails'. :-D
We'll pick it all up in Tacoma.
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We made it here, yesterday, working on getting the car through tech with both drivers.
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Car is throuhg tech, took a good chunk of yesterday and almost all of today (not incluing lunch, we did take one :wink: ).
Amongst other things the car has a new shoulder belt pass through, new leg restraints and some additional padding.
I'll see about getting some pictures of all that up, kinda fried right now, I know we did more, but I'll be darned if I can remember what it was. :?
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Two runs today and we didn't get to run till after noon. :-D
I got a 128 and a 131. Unfortunately not in that order. :-(
I'll likely try to make it earlier in the day tomorrow. Might make it a bit faster before the air gets quite that thin.
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Nice one Eric, getting there I mean, running is the pay off , if you run really fast all the better.congrats on everything so far :cheers:
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That's what I thought; thanks.
We had been going progressively slower (notice I said HAD) we turned a corner yeterday around lunchtime and got the car going faster. After lunch I got a best of not quite 147.
As far as I know that's the fastest the car has been with this engine.
We have the car re-configured to fit Pops, we are going out shortly to get him a run in the cool air, we are hoping for another 2-3 Mph.
More later.
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Pop's made a run Thursday in the am. The master switch took that opportunity to fail. :-(
After we healed that malady I made a 142 Mph pass with an 8 Mph headwind.
We stopped running after that as the aft 3 injector bells had oil in them. We figured that much blowby was the engine's way of telling us 'stop'. I'm sure it's for the best as after we got the body off there was oil on the battery, it's in front of the engine. :-o
More after we get it home to do a post race checkup.
We are in Spokane at the moment, hopefully we can catch the last day of the Goodguys show. :-)
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Eric, it was nice to see you all at the salt.
I must admit that I was really pulling for you guys and was hoping to see the little car in impound.
I too had issues and had to come to the point in deciding that it was better to stop then to continue on a path that may have a bad outcome. I am confident that you all will have the issues worked out and will come back stronger next year.
~JH
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Thank you, we hope to, you do the same.
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Just wondering, are fiberglass reproductions of the body available?
Jeff
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I haven't looked so I don't know. :-(
I suspect not though as it was a unibody, it would make a cool kit though; if you could find a donor chassis small enough.
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Okay so I have some progress to report on the home front. (yes at some point I'll likely start a new thread for the '10 effort, but not yet).
We finally got caught up enough to do some work on the car today. :-D Amongst other things we did a leakdown (differential compression test if you prefer) and a cranking compression test.
#3 (French engine so the 2nd one from the "front") had 78% leakage coming out the crankcase breather, but at least it mustered 155 Psi on the cranking test. :-) Not quite so good when you figure the 2nd worst on cranking compression was 205 Psi. :-o
Next we plan to verify where the ignition timing was set once we were done. It started going faster when we were pulling lead out, so we don't really know where it is now. As it managed 142 Mph with an 8 Mph headwind (as tired as it was) We figure the ignition timing has to be close to where it needs to be, so we are going to put some effort in finding where it is before we take it apart. :-D