Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => Build Diaries => Topic started by: Cajun Kid on March 20, 2009, 08:19:57 PM
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After a slow winter we are just beginning the disassembly. We have ordered the front end, rear end and all brakes and suspension. Monday we will order all the frame and cage tubing. Hope to get the rest of the body off and to the media blaster next week. Then we will use the stock frame as a guide to build the new one.
Here are a few pics so far. (in my signature line you can link to my photobucket and see more)
How the 53 Studebaker Champion drove in to the shop.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0851-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0862.jpg)
On the lift
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0174.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0180.jpg)
Front end removal
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Hey Charles. Looks great. I love the big tires. :-P
Looks like you have your work cut out for you. See you in a couple weeks.
Eric
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More Pics
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0245.jpg)(http://Rear end removal
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0239.jpg)
Fitting wheels in to measure for rear end width
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0243.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0241.jpg)
Rear leaf springs 2" off the floor, will get it low, not using leafs on new chassis,, either 4 bar or Nascar style trailing arms (still working on setup)
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Eric, let's hope for 65 degrees and 2 MPH tail wind in 2 weeks,, see you then.
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Motor removal
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0246.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0249.jpg)
Last body mount bolt removal
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0250.jpg)
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Eric,
Notice the blue wheels we used to mock in for rear end measurement ?
These are the wheels we used on the Vicky for her first meet, before I got the red ones and the moon discs put on.. For Maxton, they seemed to work well... For the salt, I will need much better tires.
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You mean your not going to run the fancy XT120 radials that came with it ?
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I think those wheels and tires are mid 1970's era ? As well as the extra wide rear end and rear air shock and rake?
I out grew that look by 1980... :cheers:
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Very nice CK, if you use the trailing arms with a nice low stance does that mean notching the floor? What's the specs again, E/CALT?
Looking forward to this build.
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That looks like a great project Charles. Since I'm not a "car guy", I really look forward to build diaries like this as I learn something every step of the way. Thanks, keep'em coming. :cheers:
Randy
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Is the rear axle set back from stock? I think the center of the wheels should be in the middle of the wheel well.
DW
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DW,,, look close, there is no rear end in the pics with the blue wheels... we just put them under the car and lowered the body to check clearence and get a rear end width.
But you are correct, the wheels should and will be centered in wheel well,,to original wheelbase specifications of 120.5"
Charles
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Hey Basher,
Not sure about how low we can go with trailing arms and notching the floor ? I will check the rule book again,,,
But from my "understanding" running "altered" is like "modified" and we can modify the trunk and rear floor ?
Anyone out there in LSR land know ? (chime in please before I do the wrong thing)
Charles
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Ok Charles, I thought that may be the the deal with the rear end.
Thanks,
DW
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'Bout time you got going! Spending too much time on making money and fancyin' up the shop and not enough on building :evil: We started the GRMR on Feb. 9th (chassis) and body should be substantially complete in a week or so. You need to stop by on your way home from Maxton (I'll be @ AutoFair and then home on Sunday) and see what's goin' on here. vic
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You have a ton of work ahead ... when do you plan on running the Stude?
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Good to see you're under way Charles. Good luck with the project. If it's like any of the other stuff you build it'll be first class.
Pete
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I would like to think we could be done in time to head up to Maine for LTA's inaugural event.
(I may have to sell something else to have cash to finish the Stude in that timeframe)
But that is the goal.. The Vicky took 6 months from vision to completion.. This Stude is going to be a much more detailed project with more unknowns, more safety equipment required, more custom work etc.. but we will give it a good try.. For sure want to run Maxton at least once this season with the Stude (Sep or Oct)
Charles
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PJ,
Thanks,, missed you last Tuesday on chat !!
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For some reason there was a problem somewhere in the great, wide internet. It took forever with several tries before I got logged in and then it kicked me out after about two minutes. I got the message and quit!
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Got Winters Quick Change ordered from Joe Timney at Delaware Chassis Works, hope to have it in 3 weeks.
Front Stub should be ready this Friday, ordering Frame Rail and Cage tubing in the morning. (decided on 2x4 main rails and 1 3/4 .120 DOM for cage and braces). Getting ISP Containment seat set up (head and shoulders).
More pics as we make progress.
Charles
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Nice progress Charles, I need to get back on mine. Too much distraction on a car for my wife. But it's a good distraction, a 37 Chevy Ute. However it has taken away any progress on my 55 coupe.
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Ok kid Hows it comning along?????
terry
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Best of luck with your build!!!
Can someone explain why this type of Studebaker
is used so relatively often to build LSR cars ?
Just curious.
I think it's one of the best looking American cars ever.
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Octane, I like the 53 era Studebaker's because they look so cool. They seem to have been 15 plus years ahead of there time too. I am building one because I run the "Classic" class and my 1933 Ford Vicky is an Areo "Brick" but it sure is fun to drive,,, After getting the Land Racing bug and wanting to go faster, I decided to stay in the Classic category it was between a 79,80 81 Camaro or Trams Am,,, or the 53/54 Studebaker,,, Either of them would fit the classic class and have better areo than my 33 Vicky,,, but the Camaro and FireBird or Trans Am would not look at home in my shops,,,, all my stuff is Hot Rod 1930's stuff,,, so the search for the Stude began,,,
BUILD UPDATE :
The Rear Quarters, Deck Lid and Doors are primed and ready for Paint,,, Going to blast the body this week. Front Stub here, Quick Change should be here middle of the week (per Joe T) once the rear and a few misc parts arrive, we will start full speed ahead on the new chassis (hope to make big progress Fri and Sat on frame)
Had Car show at RCR and Open House at Rod Crafters, both in Welcome yesterday so Larry and I got ZERO work done on the Stude this weekend. (Oh FYI Larry Shoaf is the owner of Rod Crafters, so if you have seen my Yellow Roadster or the Black Vicky,, his shop did 100% of the body and paint work)
I am trying to decide on repairing the front fenders and hood or just going with a Complete removable heavy weight firberglass One Piece Front end.
The Glass Shop in MD seems to have a real nice piece... Anyone have any experience or seen their product?
Charles
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The Glass Shop Stude stuff is excellent... I have had their stuff shipped to Vancouver and it always arrived in great shape. Make sure you order the front valance (air dam) with it. Good Luck with the car..........Bob
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Octane, I like the 53 era Studebaker's because they look so cool. They seem to have been 15 plus years ahead of there time too. I am building one because I run the "Classic" class and my 1933 Ford Vicky is an Areo "Brick" but it sure is fun to drive,,, After getting the Land Racing bug and wanting to go faster, I decided to stay in the Classic category it was between a 79,80 81 Camaro or Trams Am,,, or the 53/54 Studebaker,,, Either of them would fit the classic class and have better areo than my 33 Vicky,,, but the Camaro and FireBird or Trans Am would not look at home in my shops,,,, all my stuff is Hot Rod 1930's stuff,,, so the search for the Stude began,,,
BUILD UPDATE :
The Rear Quarters, Deck Lid and Doors are primed and ready for Paint,,, Going to blast the body this week. Front Stub here, Quick Change should be here middle of the week (per Joe T) once the rear and a few misc parts arrive, we will start full speed ahead on the new chassis (hope to make big progress Fri and Sat on frame)
Had Car show at RCR and Open House at Rod Crafters, both in Welcome yesterday so Larry and I got ZERO work done on the Stude this weekend. (Oh FYI Larry Shoaf is the owner of Rod Crafters, so if you have seen my Yellow Roadster or the Black Vicky,, his shop did 100% of the body and paint work)
I am trying to decide on repairing the front fenders and hood or just going with a Complete removable heavy weight firberglass One Piece Front end.
The Glass Shop in MD seems to have a real nice piece... Anyone have any experience or seen their product?
Charles
I used one of their front ends on Hooley's Stude. It originally was separated but after the first year I made it a one piece when I made the hood scoop. There is a description and pictures on the web page. http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/hooley/hooley-construction-2005-1.html I also used one of their front ends for the Henry J drag car.
Both of the pieces were about average quality. There were many pin holes in the gel coat and they both require modification and they had to be reinforced. This is typical for fiberglass pieces that you buy. We also ordered the fiberglass headlight assemblies. I do not want to discourage you but do not expect a perfect fit when it arrives. Contact me if I can help you in any way.
John
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It is handy to remove the whole front end when thats what you want to do. It is less than handy to remove the whole front end just to read the plugs, add fuel or any of the things you do 12 times a day on the salt. I have a one piece front end and wish I had a removeable hood so that I didn't have to take the whole thing off all the time. I know I could fix that. Just never have. Only had the car 28 years now. I'll get around to it.
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Rich, If I go with the one piece front end, it will have a removable hood.. The Glass Shop one piece front end consists of a "one piece unit" that is fenders, grill, bumper and air dam.. The hood is a pin one separate piece..
I agree 100% that the hood needs to be a separate piece.
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Update :
Body work and Paint is done on the Quarters, the doors and the trunk lid...(the Satin Black sure looks good .. again..,same paint as the Vicky). Body has been blasted and removed from the stock chassis. Still deciding on repairing the hood and fenders, or just going with the Glass Shop One Piece front end deal... Winters was to drop ship the new Quick Change,, should be here this week, all the material for the chassis and cage is here, the front suspension is here, the rear brakes arrived from Wilwood, (via Joe T and DCW)..pics to be loaded this weekend. Have not decided on rear suspension yet,, but am leaning towards Alston's big bar 4 link with Afco coilovers...
Not sure If I will use stock style hood or add a cowl hood scoop ? If I have the room and don't need the scoop,, would it be better NOT to use scoop ? (I assume the scoop would cause more frontal drag and reduce areo))
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Good show Charles, you're making serious progress. On the Satin Black, it is primer with a clear coat or paint? John.
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John,,, the Satin Black is a PPG Industrial Paint,,, kinda like John Deere Blitz Black,, with an "egg shell" finish so when we add the hardner, it drys as a "satin finish" Not flat, Not Gloss,,, just a bit of sheen.. but much better than Primer or a "flat" finish.
Click my photobucket link in my signature area below and look for pics of my #806 Vicky..
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Charles.
TNXs for info.
What front end and front suspension are you going to use?
John.
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John, We had a custom front stub made with 9 degrees caster built in (we have 4 degrees adjustment, so can adjust between 5 and 13 degrees) will be using IFS with Stainless Tubular A arms and coil overs Kinda Mustang II IFS but better. Manual Rack steering. Chassis is 2x4 .120 wall, Rear suspension will be 4 linkwith Z Bar/Panhard...using AFCO Racing coilovers out back as well. Cage is 1 3/4 .120 DOM..
I will get some body work pics on site soon...
Winters Quick Change Rear End, Moser 35 spline axles and wilwood rear brakes all have arrived. We are ready to start the chassis now...
Charles
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I have not made final decision to repair the front fenders and hood, or to just bite the bullet and get a hood and one piece fiberglass front end from The Glass Shop,,,It is a neat set up...
At todays body shop rates it is going to cost me $1,200 bucks to patch and fix the 2 fenders and hood??
The Glass may be better option,, I have to sleep on it a few more days,,,The Body work on the body is done now and should be in primer by lunch tomorrow.
Charles
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Nice work Charles. Looking real good!
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Charles and John, if you are going to order the glass frontend assembly you better check with the common carrier, my freight charges was out of this world.
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GH, I was quoted $250 to ship a one piece front end, with hood from MD to NC
Sounds about right ?
Charles
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Well here are a few pic's. Rear end, painted arts and sand blasted body.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0286.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0292.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0289.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0284.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0282.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0280.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0281.jpg)
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DAMN that is going to be one sweet car :-D :-D
terry
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Don't you like the look of brand new parts before they've been sullied by oil, dirt, etc. :-D
Pete
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PJ,, I try to start will new clean parts, I hate working on grimey greasy stuff,,,
Terry,,, I only hope this one comes out a good as the Vicky... It is taking a bit more body work than I anticipated,,, but my Paint and Body guy is an awesome craftsman... The next two to three weeks will be chassis mock up and build.
Charles
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Looking good Charles!! Nice to see the progress - it has that Vicky look!
What paint/finnish are you going to use on the inside fenders? John.
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Hey Cajun Kid and others :-D
I would encourage you to consider making the steel parts into a one piece front end. There are some advantages to doing that and if you use the approach of a slip out and rotate unit, it will be a lot more stable in the pits when the wind is gusting, too. 8-)
Best of Luck on your Stude projects. :cheers:
Regards,
HB2 :-)
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John, Insode fenders and underside will be flat back (under coating type finish) Chassis, if all works out will be powder coated satin black as well (paint satin black as back up plan) The paint booth is less than 100 feet from away from the assembly area, so painting the chassis is not a bad option. (easier to sand down when/if we need to weld stuff again later..
Charles
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Charles, you won't believe what the salt will do to all your bodywork and painting.
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GH,, I have seen,,, How do you keep your car looking so good after several trips to the salt ?
Charles
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You don't!!!!!!
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Well just bit the bullet and decided to order the entire Glass Shop Front end.
One piece front (fenders, grill, bumper) Cowl Induction Hood is a Pin On and can be "molded/glasses in" later should we decide that we want entire assembly a tilt/removable deal.
Frank at the glass shop hopes to have it to us before the end of the month.
Larry (Rod Crafters) and me plan to get started on the Chassis this Friday. Working out the design and parts list with Joe Timney (Delaware Chassis Works) for the rear suspension.
Charles
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Joe T at DCW spent some time with me today "s-koolin" me on rear suspensions... Looks like I am going with
Art Morrison Big Bar 4 Link and a Watts Link. Afco compression and rebound adjustable coilovers will finish up the rear set up.
Now I need help on Chute placement/attachment points (will use Strouds chute system)
Should get a few more pics posted later this weekend.
Charles
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Sounds to me like you're getting great advise Charles. I'm looking forward to lots of pics.
Pete
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The Morrison setup is pretty impressive; I was surprised at the quality when I got mine for my '53.
(http://nelson-motorsports.com/111-1159_IMG.JPG)
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Ralt,, good looking set up,,, that is a Triangulated 4 bar set up,, looks like nice sway bar too...
What kind of car? Have you run it yet? How fast and how does it handle ?
Thanks
Charles
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Charles.
On the FG hood. It comes in two versions. I bought the one W/O the strengthened corners for hood hinges. It comes either way. Look into which one is best for you. I think now, although it doesn't really manner, I would go with the reinforced version, I would use hood pins either way.
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John, I ordered the heavy weight hood (pin on).. they make 2 weights (street and race, the race being lite version).
It is supposed to have some reinforcements as it has the 6" cowl induction hood scoop.
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Ralt,, good looking set up,,, that is a Triangulated 4 bar set up,, looks like nice sway bar too...
What kind of car? Have you run it yet? How fast and how does it handle ?
Thanks
Charles
I don't want to hijack the thread, Charles, but my car is here: http://nelson-motorsports.com/studebaker.htm
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Ralt.
Hello.
I just wanted to mention that the pictures you posted of your car (nice) were helpful in planning our build (53 Stude-Chevy).
TNXs.
John.
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Hi John-Thanks for the kind words. Now if we can slap some paint on it, I might be able to get it back on the road! 130 class for Bonneville is the immediate goal, I think it is a real 170-180 car, maybe more, but I don't want to put a cage in it.
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Ralt,,, your car sure looks good.
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Body is now ready for final sanding and paint once we cut out floor and get it fitted to cage/body again. Should be another 6 to 8 weeks before we get it painted.. Hope to get back at it after Maxton this weekend,
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0297.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0298.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0299.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0300.jpg)
Charles
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Charles.
The body is in very nice shape; she's looking sharp! You have been working!
Jeff's car (C/PRO Firebird) will not be ready to run this weekend for Maxton so it looks like June for us here in north country.
Warmest regards.
John.
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John, sorry the Firebird is not ready for this weekend.
See you in June.
Charles
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Charles.
The body is in very nice shape; she's looking sharp! You have been working!
Jeff's car (C/PRO Firebird) will not be ready to run this weekend for Maxton so it looks like June for us here in north country.
Warmest regards.
John.
Have you put pictures up yet, love to see new builds. :cheers:
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Bville, scroll up on this post and all the pages and you can see several pics,, also under my signature you can see a blue link to my photobucket and see all you want.
Take care,
Charles
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Nice workspace, Charles!
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Ralt, thanks,,,,
The Glass front end came in Friday as I was leaving for Maxton... Looks good.... The 4 link and all rear suspension stuff came in as well, so if I can get some time set aside, Larry (with some help from me) can get started on the chassis now...
Charles
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Charles -
What rear end width did you end up with? Sorry if I missed it. Thanks
Will
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The Total Width of the rear end (mounting surface to mounting surface) is 55 inches...
Charles
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Charles.
Nice in car video!
John.
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Body is off the chassis, front stub rady to mock up and begin the chassis fab...
Here are a few more pics.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0327.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0330.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0329.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0328.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0325.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0324.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0322.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0321.jpg)
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very nice! Do you have an idea when you will be finished and or a first race venue? Keep the pictures comming. :cheers:
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B'Ville, we are working towards having the car ready for Maxton in Sept and Oct... had thought about Loring in August,, but we got behind on time and $$$$... Maxton in Sept looks doable...
I am crossing my fingers !!!! more cash or a sponsor would make the job go faster....
Charles
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Charles, can you tell us a little about the shop where you build the cars. I don't believe that's either of your shops at home is it?
Pete
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PJ, you are correct the pics of the Stude are not at either of my two back yard shops ..
The actual "real work" is done at a shop called "Rod Crafters" in Welcome, NC. (4 miles from my house)
Charles
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Charles.
Your car is really coming along. The body looks great!
R.
John.
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John, thanks..
As you can see I have not cleaned up the footwell vents.. I am going to cut that out for more header room and engine setback (lower engine mount too ,, I hope) The Glass front end is "filled" in the fender vent area, so I will not use them. This modification will be smoother on the sides and allow the extra room for the engine to set lower and further back.
We have done all the math and conclude that 4.5" to 5" is the right height from ground to chassis.
I know you arrived at the same answer,,, thanks for such detail in your build pics and the emails..
Charles
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Charles.
Thanks for the pictures, it is neat seeing a similar car under construction. Sweet A arms and spindles.
I have bought quite a few parts from Studebaker International; nice people to work with. I'm replacing the door fittings, hinge parts, bolts, etc., but I have not sorted out the windows. The windows are up for discussion. I would like to use new window frames but no one seems to produce them as replacements. Whether to use glass or lexan on side windows is a question. Take notice that space may be tight on installing a containment seat.
The Stude doors have a full range of adjustment (great) so reasonably good seams are possible given that the stock body panels are not as precise as those manufactured today. As you probably already know, the doors can be adjusted for solid opening and closing.
R.
John.
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John,
I am leaning towards Lexan for my door and quarter windows. I will Dzus or Screw the Lexan in the doors therefore they will not roll up or down, they will be fixed. I may have a 4" hole in them to serve as driver ventalation and safety crew access to the inside door handle if needed.
My doors are in very good shape, but I may use after market latches (like bear claws or something) for a more positive latch when closed... not sure yet,, I will use the stock outer door handles,, I have four and 2 are in great shape and 2 are painted black and need redone.
My A Arms a tubular S.S. with 2" Droped Spindles.
Hope to really start seeing some good progress on the chassis.
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CK,
How are you going to climb out over that door bar?
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I think the bar as seen in the car in the prior pictures is just a working brace while the floor is out.
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Ralt,,,,, ding ding ding,,,, you win the prize :-D
Yes it is just a brace for when we cut the floor out.
Hope to get more work done this weekend and get a few more pics.
Charles
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Charles.
I see your 33 Vickie is in this month's issue of HOT ROD Magazine, page 68. Way to go!
John.
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John,, several folks have told me about this... I went to 3 book stores and they all have only the July issue... I was told it is in the August Issue....
What issue is it in ? So page 68 is correct ?
I hope it was a nice Picture.... you know how picky I am !!! LOL
Charles
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:-D Charle s, August issue HRM, page 68 , no page number so you have to look between 67 and 69, Dave makes us hot rodders work for our goodies! Crow
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Charles.
It is in the August 2009 issue on page 68. Your car looks pristine.
Have a great day.
John.
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Thanks, I guess that HRM has a staggered distribution as no one I know has an August issue,,,
I was thinking the West Coast folks get the issues first,,, but John is in Maryland and he has a copy,,, go figure.
Oh well.... guess I may have to wait,,,
Charles
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CK,
I got my HRM today. Your car really looks sharp. Probably because it is sharp.....!
I showed it to my wife and she loved it. She said I should build one like it when I get our lakester done. That's never happened before and the lakester is almost done.........................
Harvey
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Charles:
My HRM arrived a few days go -- maybe Monday or Tuesday, the 8nd or 9rd of June. You figure out the distribution schedule and let us know (if you can figure it out, that is). But whatever -- your car looks fine. It's always a kick to see vehicles that I know well in the magazine.
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Charles your car looks great.Looks better inperson.
terry
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Charles --
I got my copy and already passed it on. As I remember you ran 149 as a C after running 140-141 as an E in several classes. Whas that all about?
Stan
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Stan here is the real deal.... The "E" motor is much faster than the "C" motor,,,, I never ran the "E" hard....(it is kinda special lil motor and we took it out to save for Bonneville in the 53 Stude we are building... ) The E however needed to rev high and with the rear gear I had and the auto she dropped to many RPM's on the shift from 2nd to 3rd.. and was just recovering at the finish line,,, The Vicky is street legal and licensed and insured, I decided that the Stude would be purpose built for racing only,, so took the E out for the Stude,,,, The C motor is just a street motor (well a hot street motor) only 11 to 1 compression .... The C motor however has never made a full pass on power either,,, This April we did 143.xx and 146.xxx when she nosed over and quit pulling and was stuttering like a lean out condition and I rolled out of it and coasted across the line,,, (found water in the tank ) In May we made one pass and she stuttered the whole way down (in car camera video sound is not good but if you play it on good speakers you can hear the stumbles and hear that I never hit the the secondaries till 1/2 track and then pedaled and held flat.. to finish..)
I had no idea what was going on,, but we think we found most of the problem,,, the Ground wire to the MSD box was loose and the ring terminal was about broke in half... kinda like the plugs where being blown out...we have since ran new wires and man the motor revs much faster,,, now we have to re jet and should be ok,,,, I WILL DO 154.xxx in 2 weeks,,, record is 152.xxx
(FYI,,, the car is only tech'd to 150mph,,, so I am only allowed to go 155 max... the class record is well within my reach with this car.... now I know the Stude "should" handle better and is for sure going to be more areo than my Vicky (brick)
Does that help,,,,, ???
I know you still wanna know why a 370 only beats a 255 by less than 10mph,,,, the reason is beat around the bush in the above text,,,, LOL,,, I think you know ???
Talk soon,, why don't you join us some time on Tuesday night chat ?
Charles
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Stan would like to put yer 255 in his C/SR, I'm thinking.
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255 is kinda small for C... plus I thought out there you can't run up in motor class?...
For Maxton my E motor can run up class but the C can't run down class....
The Stude will use the E motor and run several classes (when I get the car done) we are hoping the Stude will be ready for it's shakedown runs at Maxton in Sept....
Charles
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Today we set the chassis on the ground and put some wheels and tires on it to check ride height.
Chassis is tacked up and we are checking ride height and suspension travel etc.. we should have all suspension on and chassis fisish welded by Friday. Have more gussets and X bracing to do (Like John in MD did).. Then we will set the body on begin designing the cage.
Hope these came out OK
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0394.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0393.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0392.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0391.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0390.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0389.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0388.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0387.jpg)
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:-D As usual Charles, your pictures are great! Will be following your build here, keep up the excellant work! Crow
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Thanks Crow,
I hope to have cage design worked out by the weekend.
Still have not decided on design
1. a funny car type cage around driver seat,
OR
2.a good 12 point cage with extra gussets and x bracing with a Petty bar, using a containment seat.
I am leaning towards design 2 since due to my size I may be able to get in and more importantly OUT quicker.
Charles
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Charles, I have to ask--- what is a "Petty bar"? :?
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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Neil,,, remember "the king" Richard Petty ?
It is a diagonal bar that comes from the main hoop above and behind the drivers right shoulder down and to the passenger floor board area where the A Pillar down bar meets the floor/frame rail.
I hope you can visualize what I am trying to describe.
Can't find a schematic of that bar in an cage drawing or find an interior pic of a car using one.
Charles
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Charles.
All new metal! You have really made progress!
My guess, you are going to love the quick change, great choice. Just think, easily changing ratios in small increments to match track conditions and the engine setup.
R.
John.
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Charles, it's always a shot in the arm to have the frame sitting on wheels and tires, isn't it???
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GH,, yes what a relief to have the frame on the ground resting on the same wheels and tires that took the Vicky to her first ECTA Record in June of 2008.
I can see the project finish line now... We will use thise wheels/tires to roll around the shops and then after body is on to take measurments for new wheels.
Gary, thanks for the pics you sent me as well..
Charles
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Well not only is the chassis "rolling" we test fit/lowered the body over the chassis.
Here are a few more pics.
Front stub looking down
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0396.jpg)
Rear end shock mounts and bar to hold at ride height
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0400.jpg)
Body lowerd over chassis (still 2" above frame rails, resting on lift)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0402.jpg)
Rear view
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0408-1.jpg)
Me standing beside car for height reference point. Roof is 49" off the ground, at ride height should be 46" off ground from roof and approx 32" from ground to top of rear quarter panel
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0405-1.jpg)
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Charles looking good
man yall keep up the good work
later
robbie
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255 is kinda small for C... plus I thought out there you can't run up in motor class?...
For Maxton my E motor can run up class but the C can't run down class....
The Stude will use the E motor and run several classes (when I get the car done) we are hoping the Stude will be ready for it's shakedown runs at Maxton in Sept....
Charles
I'm sure that Interested Bystander knows that a 255 is an E motor and putting it in Stan back's Cst roadster would make it an Est roadster. Record 183.812 at Bville.
If I remember right at one time there was a big problem with a Stude and frame rails below the body then they said no frame below the bodys and I'm thinkin ohoh what about early Fords then they changed it so classic was ok.
When I first saw your foto's with the Frame on bottom I checked the SCTA rule book and classic class is ok [don't know about ECTA]
Lookin good JL222 :cheers:
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JL222,
I did the same research,,, For classic the frame can be below the body (as we are doing) however, you cannot channel the body over the frame. (which I would like to have done) We are keeping the same frame to body relationship, all we are doing is moving the main rails out on the perimeter so as not to have to use outriggers to attach body and more importantly the cage. With the perimeter frame rails our main cage hoops will come down as close as possible to the B pillars and weld directly into the top of the 2x4 main rails (no tabs or out riggers).
The Stock frame rails where about a foot inside of the door sill/rocker panels and used long stamped looking out riggers,, not near strong enough for me...
Thanks
Charles
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JL222,
Oh by the way, in the pics I attached, the body is on the lift arms about 3 inches above the frame rails.
When done, the frame will be about a 1/2" below the door rocker/sill's...
Charles
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Charles
First class work on the chassis!
Re: Stan and 255 another world to conquer-he's held the D and C records - word now is a switch to DOUBLE A. An available just under 1100 HP BBC is being knocked about.
That good handling Al Simon chassis would get the true test.
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Charles, Looks like the Stude build is moving along really good. When will you have the cage completed. Looks to be a first class car. JerryO
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Jerry,
We have to finish cutting the floor out this week and fit new body mounts. Once we get body fit back correctly we will begin to measure and design the cage layout.
I am going to design a 12 point cage set up using a containment seat, extra x braces and a petty bar.
I would also like to look at possibility of a funny car type cage "addition" but I think it may be much harder for me to get in and out of ??
Charles
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Charles.
Your body-chassis setup is looking good. I'm welding in the kidney bar but only fabricating the funny car portion until I see how things go for installation later.
John.
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John,
I sure would like to see your funny car cage design and how it can be incorporated into the full cage design you already have.
Thanks
Charles
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Fabrication is being held for the moment while we sort out the front end. Believe it or not the Street Stuff uses an aluminum cross bar on the upper A-arm. So I have to get a steel replacement - somewhere?
Did the file open?
I'll provide photos when I get something to show; the kidney bar is cut.
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John, yes I was able to open the disk... it took some playing around but I got it... Thanks alot... It is sure ging to help me "think" about some options.
Larry cut the floor out and set the body on the car at ride height and man it is lower than I thought it would be... we have enough adjustability in the car to raise or lower from the baseline setting + or - 2 inches...
charles
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You're following the good, Cagle San-Chez tradition of a low Stude!
I'm glad the file opened as it contains some very useful photos.
-
Body is just about in it's final resting place, the original firewall mounted (triangular) body mounts are holding the front of the body a bit over an inch high on the new chassis. Once we remove them and build new firewall and mounts the body will drop down in place.
Here are a few more progress pics..
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0491.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0490.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0489.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0488.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0487.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0486.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0485.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0484.jpg)
Be gone a few days,, hope to get more work done and pics posted by next week.
Charles
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when are you going to start adding weight to the stude? keep it low, looking good
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Charles, The stude is looking good. If you are thinking of going with a funny car type cage like the Pro Stock drag cars use, I can send you some photos of a cage I just finished for Pro Stock racer Allen Johnson. I built Allen a full size cage to be used as a simulator so he can practice launches. If you want, I can take some photos and send them to you. The guy that is building your cage should have no problems incorporating the funny car cage into your car. It can be designed so It will not give you a problem getting in and out of the car. I feel this type cage is much safer than a standard cage. JMO
JerryO
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I don't see a rear end locater yet. You going to use a watts or panard bar? Also, I see that your lower rear shock mounts are the same that I have on the Fairlane. We had some problems with them bending after we added ballest and had to beef them up.
-
Jerry,,,
Yes please send the pics of the funny car cage... the guy from RCR that is going to do the bending was by today and had a few questions,,,, I missed him and he will be back next Tues...
T-Salt,,,, thanks for the info on the lower shock mounts... I will keep my eye on them,, may brace/beef them up from the get go..
On the lateral locater for the rear... was torn between Watts, Wishbone and Panard... due to mass of the QC Rear and unfamiliarity of the Watts, we have narrowed down top WishBone and Panard,,,, We will start with big tube Panard 36" long for the least amount of lateral movement.... Will have provisions to switch to Wishbone later if need be.
Bellhousing just came in,, Taking the motor and tranny off there stands and going to mock them up in chassis and see if headers fit.
Lots more work, but in the last 15 days seems like alot of big progress...
Charles
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Charles........ Here are a few photos of a NHRA Pro Stock cage I built. This is just a practice simulator so all the bars are not in the car. As you can see, you can make the funny car cage part as wide or narrow as you need. It would be very easy to incorporate it into a standard cage. With the proper padding I feel this type cage gives the driver better protection in a side load or roll over crash. This cage is not of my design and I would change a couple things but I think the photos give a idea as how to lay it out. Also, about your other post about using a halo or conventional a- pillar bar. I have built both designs and have had both on twist fixtures and have not really seen much difference. My personal opinion is to use what ever makes it easy for you. The funny car cage can be used on both designs. Hope this helps and contact me if you need any other info......JerryO
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt1/lsliner/rjcage1.jpg)
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt1/lsliner/rjcage4.jpg)
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt1/lsliner/rjcage3.jpg)
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt1/lsliner/rjcage5.jpg)
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Thanks Jerry,,, man I wish your bender was portable and your plate was not so full. GREAT work, you know much more than we do and it shows.... QUALITY work..
I am about out of funds and patience, yet I have to get this cage done... I am at the Mercy of others schedule and my exhausted budget...
Thanks again, Looks like even if we build the std 12 point cage,, this funny car part can just be added in ??
I will blow your pics up and study them....
Charles
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Here are a few more pics with the body lowered on the frame, fitting the fiberglass one piece front and and the original steel rear quarters. Once we get it in the final position we will begin the cage, then remove the body for final fit and full welding of the cage to the frame.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0502.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0501.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0500.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0499.jpg)
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Looks good Charles. I like the stance.
Pete
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PJ,, thanks man,, the stance is even better in person, the lift and other things around that area of the shop will not let me get a full side profile pic.. But we are working hard on fit, finish, ride height/stance.
Rear shocks and springs just came in today. Should be better pics coming after we thrash Friday and Saturday
Charles
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Cajun, sorry if you already posted this but what size tires do you plan on running? Also awaiting what you plan on doing for cage layout and seat mounting.
Great build up. :cheers:
Dan
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Dan, I plan on doing a 12 point cage and trying to either copy Jerry O's funny car cage add on or see if he can come build it for me !!! Seat mounting will be thru the floor directly to the frame 2x4 .120 or the X braces. and braced and bolted to the cage as well.
Since the body is removable, we will use the traditional "A" Pillar down legs from main hoop (not Halo) we will be able to get full 360 degree welds on all joints and will have .120 plate open corner gussets at all tube junctions. Under the Floor we will also use X and K bracing.
Charles
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Charles that is going to be one cool ride :cheers:
terry
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Thanks Terry,, last night we bounced around a couple of two tone paint options vs some scallops.
Main paint scheme will be Satin Black with White and Red Lettering (Like the Vicky)....
Charles
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Well we lowered the motor and tranny in to measure for motor and mid mounts. Got motor at correct position and set in place. making motor and mid mounts and trans crossmember. Main cage hoop and such should be tacked in first of the week. Here are a few more pics as of today at 5pm.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0506-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0509.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0510-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0512-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0520-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0522-1.jpg)
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Looking good. Love those SBC's!
Your build pictures have been a big help in setting my rear design.
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It's starting to look like a Studebaker land speed race car, good work, enjoy it while you are building it because after it's done all you get to do is clean the salt and RUST off it.
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Gary, We are making the front end and body fully removable, all the cage parts will have open corner and or tubular gussets so as not to trap/hide the salt. I have tried to take away as many good ideas from all you salty veterans and incorporate them in my build... hmm and even a few ideas and creations of mine and Larry's..
Thanks again,, it felt good to see the motor frop right in and look at home in there,,,,, Hope my Lil 255 cu in "E" SBC can haul the weight... LOL
Charles
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Charles, looking good one thing you may want to check on is your bellhousing that your are useing. I was told that the quarter master bellhousing didnt meet the SFI sec's that you needed to run the car? I think there are 6.1 6.2 6.3 nows the time to change if you need to hope your ok with it but i would look into it anyway.
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MK,, I was told this STEEL Quarter Master Bell housing was SFI spec...
After your post, I called CV Race products where I bought the entire setup, trhey called QM and you are CORRECT , they did not submit it for SFI testing... Darn,,,
What am I to do ? It is a 1/4" Steel Blowproof bellhousing and I am using the duel disk clutch with button and fles plate,, not stnadard heavy flywheel..
Is this OK,,, or is the SFI rating the only pass/fail test ?
Charles
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Anyone know ?
I understood the rule to be "steel bellhousing" I thought the QuarterMaster was SFI certified,,, bud sadly it is not...
Is the main concern the "STEEL" or the SFI cert ?
Charles
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I would go with a lakewood 6.3 .
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Cars looking good, your gonna like that removeable front end. Makes it nice to work on the car without worrying about scratching the car and the convenience of working on the engine compartment. :cheers:
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Charles --
Looks to me in 3.O that you need an approved one if one is available for your engine/trans.
Stan
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Stan, or anyone ?
I have just read 3.0 rule as well... it does say SFI specification 61,, 6.2 or 6.3 depending on application. an SCTA-approved flywheel shield, made from 1/4 in. thick steel providing 360 deg. coverage to retain clutch and flywheel parts may be used if aftermarket part is not available.
I agree... However here are my main points.
1. I do have a non-automatic , but it does not have a flywheel, it uses a automatic style flex plate with a contained duel disck clutch and button set up.
2. The bellhousing I have is 1/4" steel and 360 degree coverage.
3. Since I am using a clutch setup like I have, qyuartermaster is the only manufacturer of a steel bellhousing for this clutch and relaease bearing set up, so it seems as if, it would be ok under the alternate approved language.
However, I sure do not want to truck all the way there and spend $10,000 in travel and lodging to be turned away??
Who at SCTA should I consult?
-
kiwi steve @ 714-671-9454
-
Spoke with Kiwi Steve,,
He says the SFI sticker is not required (however advised) the main thing is 1/4" steel ... also my car does not have a flywheel etc...
He also told me to make sure to get several pictures of the bellhousing off and a on the car so as they would not have to disassemble or get under the car to verify.
Thanks all for the heads up....
I am going make sure he gets my picture before we go any further and it is "for sure OK" if not I will have to adapt a Lakewood 15000 and go back to the drawing board on clutch and release bearing set up.
Charles
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That was quick! He's a good guy.
-
Yes, Kiwi Steve is a great guy, he listend and asked several questions and offered suggestions as well.
I am going to take several pictures from various angles and get them out to him ASAP... So I can get a written approval before I proceed... I can not afford to get all the way out there and be turned away on a technical misunderstanding.
Thanks to all the guys who jumped in to offer your assistance, MK, Stan, Bville etc... I appreciate the quick heads up,,, and as you can see I attack a problem and correct or clarify ASAP...
If what I have does work, then I prefer to stay with it,, If not I will have a backup plan by the time I get back from vacation next week..
Thanks again,
Charles
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Charles, take pics of your flywheel also show that it is not cast iron or alum per rule 3.O
-
The Rule Book restriction on aluminum flywheels is on CAST aluminum flywheels. Presumably forged aluminum flywheels such as Scheiffer, etc are OK.
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
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I am heading out in the morning with my wife to catch a ship in Miami... Will post more pics and info when I return.
Everyone have fun and be safe in Loring an B'ville...
Charles
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:-D You two have a nice trip, and enjoy yourselves! Crow
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Charles,
Wouldn't it have been easier to just pay them to let you on the boat? What kind of bait are ya usin? What pound test leader? Are you going to have it mounted on your wall when you catch it? Is there a size limit or bag limit? :roll:
Okay, enough of that!! Have a wonderful time, tell your wife thank you for sharing you with us!! Stay safe (inside the ship is a really good idea!), take lots of pictures, relax!!!
Talk to you when you get back...errr, nope, when I get back!!!
Lynda
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Lynda,,, We have a balcony suite,,, I am taking some tether line and a repelling harness.... :roll: :evil: :-D I am not falling overboard,,, our room is 10 decks above the water line..... I have no plans on being shark bait..
I will Miss you all on this coming Tuesdays chat night... have fun,,, I know I will..
Charles
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Well back from Vacation, had a great time with just me and the wife on the cruise.. now back home to focus on my real job and all my spare time on the Stude.
While I was driving to Miami, I made some calls and a friend of mine had a new in the box Lakewood "SFI" Steel Bellhousing for a SBC (Chevy II) .. He took it over to Larry's shop for me and while I was gone , Larry made all the motor mounts, new trans crossmember and modified the mid mounts. I decided not to take a chance on the Quartermaster bellhousing,, I took all the pictures and documented all, but a little voice told me to Mic the bellhousing,,, It was a full 1/4" where it bolts to block and tranny,, but where the clutch fork opening is it was only .188.. this could/would have caused a tech problem ,, so we changed it now..
Thanks to this board and all the fellow racer, builders and fans of LSR... this error was caught now and not at 100 degrees on the salt with no spare bellhousing....
Thanks again to all... I am glad to share my builds and I am glad to get help. comments and suggestions...
See ya later..
Charles
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A few pics of the new "SFI" approved Lakewood Bellhousing. etc..
Bellhousing
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0558.jpg)
Mid Mount
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0559-1.jpg)
Mid Mount and Perch
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0560-1.jpg)
Motor Mount (not braced or gusseted yet) just mocked up.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0561-1.jpg)
Roll Cage (taped in place)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0562-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0561-1.jpg)
Cage (looking through back window)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0563.jpg)
Ready to install Firewall
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0564.jpg)
Charles
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We chromed ours -- sure NHRA wouldn't approve.
Stan
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I will stay with the factory red....
At least that is one less tech concern identified and RESOLVED....
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A few more pics as the cage is built and tack'd in.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0565.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0566.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0567.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0568.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0569.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0570.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0571.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0572.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0573.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0575.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0576.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0577.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0578.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0579.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0581.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0582.jpg)
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Looks great.
terry
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Thanks Terry... We are hoping to get done for September... man it sure will be close...
Either way, see you in September.
Charles
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Charles.
Thanks for many pictures. You are really making progress; the car is looking great.
We are planning on Maxton in September; hope to see you there!
R.
John.
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John, I plan to be in Maxton in Sept. as well, so make sure to look me up. I try to pit in the cul-de-sac across from the Finish line.. White and Silver Ford F250 with White V Nose enclosed hauler (Venable Rods and Racing logo on trailer)
I am not sure about having the Stude race ready by then. But if not I will have the Vicky there.
See you then,
Charles
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MY 1000th. Post... Just wanted it to be on my own build diary...
Well still working on the cage, the fuel cell and the floor..
More updates and pics next week.
Charles
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Quit typing get to wrenching :wink:
terry
-
Terry,,, bring your butt up here and help wrench... LOL
man it's tough to balance real work, family time, hot rod stuff, Land Speed Racing and oh yeah,, building a new Race Car... and the "BUDGET" heck I need a "stimulus package" or a "Rescue Plan" even
a Troubled Asset Relief Plan" oh the trouble with my assets mmm, they are gone ??
Charles
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Darn, no offers to help,,, Any great TIG Welders or Sheetmetal fabricators near me ?
Running out of time to get car done before this season at Maxton is finished...
Great fun, nice place to work, good folks to hang out with, good food and drink, no benefits or pay but being part of the build "Priceless"
Charles
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Charles, how far are you from Springfield, Missouri????
-
GH,,, to far my friend,,
Hey get that motor/turbo back together and come run with us at Maxton in October ..
Charles
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Charles, sorry but I can't run on the short tracks, not enough stopping power.
-
Terry,,, bring your butt up here and help wrench... LOL
man it's tough to balance real work, family time, hot rod stuff, Land Speed Racing and oh yeah,, building a new Race Car... and the "BUDGET" heck I need a "stimulus package" or a "Rescue Plan" even
a Troubled Asset Relief Plan" oh the trouble with my assets mmm, they are gone ??
Charles
I can't get to my own junk :-(
terry
-
Some tin work progress..
We are using 16ga Sheetmetal for the trunk floor and the "rear bulkhead/firewall" between the trunk and interior of the car.
We are going to cut/dish out a section of the trunk floor between the frame rails and recess the Fuel Cell 4" in the floor, to lower the center of gravity. The Fuel Cell will be surrounded on all four sides by 2x4 frame rails.
The pics will show "kinda" what I was trying to say above.
10 Gallon Fuel Cell (with internal safety foam)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0593.jpg)
Trunk Floor and Rear Bulkhead/Firewall
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0595.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0594.jpg)
Front end
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0597.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0596.jpg)
Making some progress,,, slower than expected but forward motion
Charles
-
ISP called me Friday and the new seat for the Studebaker is done (on time as promised just 1 week)
I did not have time to go pick it up Friday afternoon, should get it Monday afternoon.. then the fun begins.. test fitting it, then attaching the head and shoulder supports, seat mounts, harness mounts,,, oh my,,gosh still so much to do and so little time and $$... The saga continues.
Charles
-
Nice progress sheetmetal looks good
is that a metal fuel cell and why did you go with a 10 gallon
later
robbie
-
Robbie,
The Fuel Cell is .125 thick Alum with safety foam and is powder coated red.
10 Gallons will allow me 4 runs at Maxton between fill ups and should get me 3 runs at Loring and 2 runs at Bonneville.
(and it fits well where I wanted/needed to mount it)
Oh by the way,,, did you get your new Torque Converter installed yet ?
Charles
-
Unless you're changing from the unblown C engine you've previously planned, you might consider leaning it out a bit. Ten gallons is twice what you need at Bonneville for two long-course runs.
Stan
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Stan,
You probably know much more than I do,,, but the last thing I wanna do is have my big fat arse pushing the car cause I run out of gas.... :cheers:
On my lil 14 to 1 E motor,,, I put 6 gallons in the car and can make 3 runs and have a gallon left in the tank.
Now my fuel milage is not that bad... see I drive it from my pits to the gas man.
Here is the procedure once I have my event gas and tank sealed.
Drive from my pit to the staging/start line. 1.2 miles
Make my run 1.0 mile
Long Shutdown - down .9
End of long back to my pit 1.8 miles (approx)
Total Distance for 1 run 4.9 miles ( 1 mile at WOT )
Maybe 10 gallons is to much... but may save standing in line at the fuel truck a time or two.
Who knows ??
Oh by the way,, just picked up my new ISP Seat.. man it is great and fits like a glove.. I will post some pics after supper.
Charles
-
Tow back only at B'ville - no drive back.
Mike
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Charles --
I was only relating to long course Bonneville runs.
Here is the procedure once I have my event gas and tank sealed.
Drive from my pit to the staging/start line. 1.2 miles
Not allowed.
Make my run 1.0 mile
Hopefully 5 miles.
Long Shutdown - down .9
Same length but with throttle hopefully closed.
End of long back to my pit 1.8 miles (approx)
Not allowed.
Total Distance for 1 run 4.9 miles ( 1 mile at WOT )
Same length, more throttle.
We use about 3 gallons for two 5-mile runs with a C gas motor.
Your mileage may vary.
Stan
-
Stan how much gas in a AA/STR Hint hint :wink:
-
I may have figured wrong on my gas consumption since have to be towed/push in the pits and from the shutdown back,,, but 3 to 5 miles at WOT,,, never done that,,, so I went with the 10 Gal fuel cell,,, oh well the added weight ,,low and back there should help my launches at Maxton and Loring and since they are standing start venues,, that may be needed....
So much more work to be done,,, so little time !!!!
Ok,, back to the shop to get seat unpacked and some pics..
Charles
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Well I have the Stude's new ISP Full Containment Seat. Kris made the seat 2 ply's of .125 for a full 1/4" thick in most places for me. They also did some extra bracing to hold my weight. It fits GREAT... Now we have to fit it and me in the car.
Here is a pic of about what it should look like when finished.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/ispcotjpgw180h2241.jpg)
Here are various pics of the seat, head back, shoulder supports, head restraint. Also included are all the braces and mounting hardware. A complete setup to custom mount in my car.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0612.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0611.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0610-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0609.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0608-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0606.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0605-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0604.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0603.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0601-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0600.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0599-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0598-1.jpg)
Will keep some pics as we fit in the car. Has real nice roll bar mounting tabs and seat belt tabs etc.. Nice package,, service was great.
Charles
-
Charles
We got the new torque converter in sat.
We also can a dat logger in classic so got that wired and working tonite.
Just got to get the headers back on and test everything out.
Nice seat. I would like to check out the one in the Vicky and maybe do a little
measuring if you dont mind.
Keep the good work.
Later
Robbie
-
Robbie,
Just bring a tape measure and you can measure the seat in the Vicky. If you like you can get in and see how your head and shoulders feel in there (the hip width will be to wide but you will get a good idea of how it all fits together.
Are you going to pit in the same area you did in June ? I try to pit in the cul-de-sac across from the finish line and rescue turn out... Want me to save you a spot ?
I may be a bit late for chat tomorrow night, bit will try to log on.
Charles
-
Robbie,
Great news on the Data Logger,,, I had no idea we could use one in Classic category,,,
I need to check out what you have and the install..
Thanks
Charles
-
Charles,
We will pit where we pitted in June its just easier for us to pull the car around the loop.
I like the looks of the seat just not sure if i have enough room for with the funny car cage,
but need to do something before we can go 200.
Good luck with the build.
See on chat tonite if i make it.
Later
Robbie
-
Nice seat, Charles, and super that it's made with a form of your shape -- so it'll fit properly and be able to do the job for which it's designed -- that's protect you. And the vise grips -- wonderful backyard racer's touch.
-
Charles, doesn't the rule book state that the seat cushion can't be thicker than 1"????
-
GH,, Yes you are correct on the 1" seat cushion.
The foam "cushion" and cover are just a fraction under 1" thick,,, It looks thicker becasue It is not pressed down in the seat area. The Head Rest Cushion is denser foam and just about 3/4 thick,,
So all padding is within the rules when secured in place.
Jon,, Vice Grips ?? Man you have a keen eye,,, I guess I will remove them before driving.. LOL
Charles
-
Gary, Ahh I looked at the pic and now I see where you could think the "seat padding/cushion" is thicker than 1 inch... If You are looking at the Butt/Bottom of the seat pan , see how it is curved to support under my thighs and A$$ area ?? The seat floor has another contoured bottom welded on top of seat pan bottom, it is shaped and contoured for support... the actual padding is less that 1 inch. I will remove the cover and take a pic for you.
Like I said this seat was "custom made" for my big frame,,,
Charles
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GH, here are 3 pics showing the butt/bottom of seat and under thigh supports built in seat.
Custom contoured to fit me
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0613.jpg)
Another view of the support
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0614.jpg)
Look between my fingers and you can see cover/pad is thin. 1/2" maybe at max.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0615-1.jpg)
When sitting in my other "non supported" flat bottom race seat all the body's weight is more on tail bone.
This new seat fits like a glove and supports weight evenly across entire length and width of seat bottom, feels comfy and secure.
Charles
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Robbie,
I was just thinking,, since you have a funny car cage in your car,,, my style seat and larger head and shoulder support system may be to wide for your setup..
You still have a couple of choices.
1. if your FC cage has the needed lateral head support, then you could get a custom low back seat like mine from ISP and not get the high back head rest or the head and Shoulder Supports. Using the FC cage bars as lateral head and shoulder supports with appropriote SFI Padding added.
OR
2. Joe Timney can get you a very nice seat from UltraShield and it seems a bit smaller and may fit inside your existing FC cage set up. (and the prices are real fair as well from Joe..
Charles
-
Charles,
Thanks for the info.
After measuring your setup i may talk to Joe about the UltraShield seat.
Later
Robbie
-
Charles, I was not trying to be a smart a--, I just didn't want you to have trouble getting through tech.
-
Gary,, NO NO,,, I did not take it wrong,, I am very glad you where pointing that out to me..
You see I expected that an "inspector" may or could look in the car and see what you saw and think that the padding was to thick... So your post just helped prepare me for that eventual question in Tech line.
I am going to make sure to have a printed build album in Tech to show all the items that may raise a question... like the seat,,, but it is easy to un smap the cover to show them that,,, but at 100+ degrees in the sun, I would rather address the question before it is asked...
Thanks again and please as the build goes on KEEP letting me know or pointing out areas of Concern, Potential Concern and or ideas to help me,,,, I am a ROOKIE.. and can sue all the help Ican beg, borrow or steal.
Charles
-
ISP Seat Install (multi step, Install Shoulder Supports, then head rest, then mounting braces, then head support, then tie head and shoulders with 3/16 plate braces. Then mount, then brace some more.
Here is the process. Me, Larry and Joe getting at it this morning.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0619.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0618.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0616.jpg)
Larry working on a shoulder brace
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0617.jpg)
Yes, I do some work too !!!
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0622.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0621.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0630-1.jpg)
shoulder supports
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0627.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0628.jpg)
Joe mounting head rest
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0637.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0638.jpg[/IMG
Larry checking shouldder belt height
[IMG]http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0631.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0632.jpg)
Seat in car
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0647.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0645.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0648.jpg)
Will mount seat and get cover back on later Monday,
Charles
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Here is trunk floor finished (and recessed for fuel cell.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0642.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0640.jpg)
Rear Bulkhead/floor over kick ups
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0654.jpg)
Tubular Gussets
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0657.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0658.jpg)
Seat looking through windshield area
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0656.jpg)
Larry tacking in back brace
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0660.jpg)
-
Looks good.
terry
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Terry,
Thanks --- see you in a few weeks.
Charles
-
:-D
-
Maxx,
Not sure how close in size you are to each other??
The 1" padding rule is for the seat bottom, so the seat belts hold you in... to much padding and the thought is an impact can compress you down further in the padding and the belts would become looser.
With that said, it would seem OK for ISP to make the seat and built in padding to the larger drivers size, then make a second seat cover for the other driver. IF you are close in size,, as the Shoulder and head restraint must line up well for each driver,, if you are not close in size,, then I would guess that would be a problem with ANY seat.
Imagine my 5'10" 185lb crews chief trying to set in my seat,,, He would get lost in it..
These and any quality seat are a bit costly,,, but as I once said in my bike racing days.. you put a $40 helmet on a $40 head,, I always bought the upper end stuff and still do...
Hope the pics of the seat and assembly help you make your decision easier.
Let me know if I can help.
Charles
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Just curious Charles.... are you planning to run any roll bar support tubing beside the seat?
Kent
-
Kent,,,
Yes I plan to run a roll bar support tube from the main hoop/back bar down beside the seat and to the chassis.
But is it required ? and
I am not sure if it is needed, the seat is thick 5052 alum and the the left side is heavily braced and reinforced at hips and ribs...that with a full door net and door should be enough,,, but I still plan on a diagonal brace as you asked about,
But due to my size, I will not x brace the door/ seat area back to the "A" pillar down bar as I could not get in the car then.
My thinking is we are not a car to car or car to wall contact sport, so containment is the key, not side impact from another car or wall,,,
Please Correct me if my thinking is skewed
Charles
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Charles --
I've been led to believe over the years that the door is not considered in containment, although we know under many circumstances it offers assistance.
Stan
-
it may not be car to car or car to wall but if you do get upside down an start barrel rolling it wouldnt be much different...
-
Stan and CTRon, I agree and we need all the assistance we can get.
Working on "A" and "B" pillar secondary bracing (in addition to standard 8 point or 10 point cage design) and a way to increase / brace/protect the left side of the seat as well (and still be able to get me in and out)
Back to the drawing board !!!
Charles
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Charles,
You might think about a swing out diagonal door bar on the left side.
We ran one the drag car didn't have any problems.
I'm not sure if the rules allow but sure makes getting in and out easier.
Just some thoughts.
Robbie
-
Robbie, I discussed the swing out bar with Charles a while back, I think he talked to Timney about it as well. That's a last minute add on when everything else is in place. See you on the chat line.
-
Robbie and Glen,
Yes I agree with the "swing out door bar" it will pass tech, but most builders and inspectors don't like them. When I drag raced many mooons ago... One of my cars had a swing out and one did not...
I will make the swing out decision at the last minute once car is done and ready to come back apart for paint/powdercoat...
We have some designs in mind that we may try and depending on how fast I can exit the car may determine the final choice...
One thing I can not find in the ECTA or SCTA Rule Book is the time allowed to exit the car.
I have heard 3 conflicting times they allow you in the exit drill..
30 seconds - 1 minute and 2 minutes...
Does anyone know for sure.
I can get out of the Vicky (before the door net instali and head and shoulder restraint) in less than 15 seconds,,, With the Head and Shoulder restraints installed it increased average exit time to 18 seconds and now with the door net I imagine another 5 seconds... will know tomorrow the exact time,, but I am certain under 25 to 30 seconds,,,
Looks like Studebaker is going to take between 2 and 2.5 times as long ????
Charles
-
Charles,
I haven't been able to find an exact time either,but from watch Keith and Joe in tech line
I think the main thing is the order in which you do things. Kill power,fire bottles etc. etc. then get out as fast as you can
just what i observed.
Robbie
-
Robbie,,
Thanks, The best thing is to practice, so an emergency exit looks smooth and natural.. Then if timed it should be within the "guidelines'"
Just got the extra cage bar ("Petty Bar" welded in the Vicky and the Door Net mounted..
A little touch up paint and the we Install the Fire Bottle system...
Charles
-
Can't wait to see the pics
Robbie
-
Charles --
I saw where you modified the safety equipment on the Vicky. It brought to mind a question you had a week or two ago about painting or powdercoating the chassis.
My buddy Al Simon, a pretty good chassis builder for street cars and race cars, says you don't powdercoat race cars. It's because you're always making modifications -- just like you just did.
And the Studebaker may need some, too. Even thought you've well thought out your completed vehhicle, you may want(or have) to change something in the future. And I understand that paint is easier to touch up. Just something you might want to consider.
Stan
-
Added to what Stan just said, powder is a real pain to remove if you are going to do further welding at any point, whether it's a modification or repair. It must be removed well back from the work as it just bubbles and gets hard if it's overheated. With your body being easily removable for service or cleanup I'd be tempted to use paint that can be easily touched up because access shouldn't be a problem.
My own inclination is to use a light colored rattle can paint because it is easy to inspect and easy to repair or modify followed by easy touch up. This comes from a guy who tends to change things and has spent a lot of time in classes where contact was sometimes involved.
Pete
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Stan and PJ,,
You guys are wise beyond your years,,, Yes today I spent time sanding off the paint on the roll cage of the Vicky to add some more tubing and some mounting tabs,,, If the cage had been poweder coated it would have taken much more time and rather than using sandpaper I would have had to grind in there,,, whew,, !!!
Plus it would be hard to touch up.
PJ.. paint my entire Frame, Chassis, Cage with a rattle can ??
Hmm,,man my finger would be sore ??
I may buy some rattle can paint and have my painter color match it, so he can spray the chassis,, and I can touch up with rattle can when/if needed...
Hey I heard Rustolem makes paint that matches thier rattle can colors .. any truth to that ?
That would be a possible solution.
Oh, well Taking the girls out to Dinner and a Crusie in at Pilot Mountain... gotta go...
Charles
-
PJ.. paint my entire Frame, Chassis, Cage with a rattle can ??
Hmm,,man my finger would be sore ??
(http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE-962079reg.jpg)
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276387&kw=spray+paint&lmdn=Brand&searchId=43344955074 (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276387&kw=spray+paint&lmdn=Brand&searchId=43344955074)
Mike
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As for it taking 30+ seconds to exit a car.Most(I) want to make sure it can be done with no issues.That you understand that if the car is on fire you don't panic and get out at 150+/-mph.You don't want your belts/nets/steering wheel holding you up.
God forbid any thing happening but it can and DOES happen
terry
-
Actually Charles on oval track and road race cars I work on, if I have the choice, I use one of the rust paints, usually Tremclad. That way I can spray it with a gun and touch up with the rattle can. There's no primer involved and it drys with a semi-gloss. Rustoleum is another brand and I believe there are others. You'll really appreciate it the first time you do a repair or modification and your welder will appreciate it even more. Any fumes produced are much less noxious than with paint or powder.
Pete
-
Logic would dictate paint over powder for the ease of future modifications and touch up etc...
But I sure like the durability and finish of Powder Coating. The Vicky's Chassis is Powder Coated, but the Cage (all interior stuff) is Paint. So far all the modifications we have made are to the seat and cage, etc,, so no re-do's on any powder coated parts So Far !!
I am racking my brain to make sure the Stude is "once and done" !! but I feel Stan, PJ and others are correct and there "will be future modifications" needed or REQUIRED !!... then ouch powder would have been a bad choice.
Oh well,,, headed down to the shop to make some brackets to mount the fire bottle in the Vicky.
Charles
-
The other approach is to paint it initially. At the end of a season, once you know everything works and you don't need further modifications, strip it down for maintenance and do any powder coating then. They're going to blast it to do the coating anyway and the rust type paint is easily removed in the process.
Pete
-
We use a paint called Hammerite (sp?). It comes in quarts, gallons, spray cans. Hard to find. It's made for farm equipment and gates and other outdoor stuff. No primer required, thick as h*ell, dries in a hammered finish. I roll it on my frame rails (they're a little deeper than most).
Stan
-
Stan,
Hammered Finish ? More like "Egg Shell" vs Satin ?
Charles
-
Charles;
Sometimes it is called "HammerTone".
Regards, Neil Tucson, AZ
-
It's another good choice. I get it at Home Depot up here.
Pete
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Charles,
Rustolem works good thats whats on my car trailer and since you are making the body removable it would be no problem to touch up.
Later
Robbie
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Joe was over for a bit after breakfast this morning and he painted the Vicky's new cage parts. Yeah the Rust -oleum rattle can seemed to work good.
"If I only knew" I would get the Stude right the first time and I would not have to add/modify anything ,, I would sure prefer to use Powder Coating... I know, I know,, paint is much better to work on, re-do, match and touch up...
Oh well,, having trouble with the fire system plumbing on the Vicky.. back to the shop before supper....
Charles
-
A few more shots of the floor, drive shaft and trans tunnel.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0695.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0696.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0697.jpg)
Note: the extra tubing from the "A" Pillar down bar to the chassis
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0698.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0699.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0694.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0701.jpg)
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:-o Charles, whoever is helping you do this work, is a real craftsman, or men! That is beautiful work. Good luck! Crow.
-
Crow, Thanks... and Yes Larry is a master welder and metal craftsman.
-
Well Septmeber meet has came and went and the Stude did not make it... October is near and we will not finish the build for any shakedown or test and tunes this year. I am so bummed :-( :-( :-(
Time and $$$ are on short supply, so to continue to do it right, looks like Dec/Jan before project completion.
I will keep the diary going as we finish the project.
Charles
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Keep stroking on the build Charles ... I dont think I have a had a project finish when I originally planned ... I now have rolling deadlines ... no stress this is supposed to be fun. Joe
-
I feel your pain Charles! I am in the same boat. I too wanted to run this year but time and money has slowed the build. I could probably rush the build and make the last Maxton event but I am just going to take my time and do it right and finish it over the winter. At least you have the Vickie you can run. Take your time and do it right and I am sure you will be ready to kick butt next year...... JerryO
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Joe and Jerry, thanks for the kind words.
Yeah I am a bit bummed out, I really wanted to run the Stude this year. Jerry, you are right about working over the winter and having more time to get'er done. Hope your build gets back on track too.
Looks like October will be busy. We have Maxton October 24/25 and then the following weekend is Goodguys Rod and Custom show at Charlotte Motor Speedway.That Friday night the 30th. will be Friday Night Drags for the 1954 and earlier Hot Rods and the 1955 to 1972 Street Machines . they will run the 1/4 mile at Zmax Dragway. Since I have Slicks for the Vicky now, I am going to run her Friday Night. (I am just going to install a line loc and then we are ready for drag racing too)
Hope to see you all in October.
Charles
-
:-D
-
Charles,
Man that thing is looking good just keep pluging away at it and you will be done before you know it.
Bring the Vicky in Oct. and havr a blast. :cheers: :cheers:
Later
Robbie
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Robbie,
I think I know how a pregnant woman must feel ?? I know I know,, don't tell me about the labor pains,,, SHOW ME THE BABY,,,, that is how I feel,,, I am ready to see the finished product.
We are plugging along... making progress daily... checking and double checking to make sure we don't miss anything.
If I must say so myself, my desire is to have this thing looking like a piece of automotive art...If she don't go fast , she sure will look good !!!! So having the winter to finish up will allow a bit more attention to detail...we threw the Vicky together from scratch in less than 7 months and that spoiled my timeframe expectations for the Stude.
Yes the Vicky will be at Maxton in October, then the GoodGuys drags the following Friday night. Bring the big Mopar to Charlotte after Maxton ??
Charles
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??? whats da news?
terry
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Terry,
We have finished the interior sheet metal and the cage is done (except for the drivers door bar ?? )
The Chassis has been done except for the Panhard bar out back and the chute mounts.
We mocked up the one piece front end and cowl hood, then put the front air damn. Good thing the ride height is adjustable and the air damn is removable..(loading on the trailer and the bumps at Maxton) will require a bit more ground clearance up front.
Hope to get some more pics... soon
See you in 2 weeks.
Charles
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SSS,
The bad word police has intercepted my air Dodge and made it an air Dodge ??
Let's try spelling a few ways
Hoover Dam ( d a m ) Air Dam ( d a m )
Hoover Dodge ( d a m n ) Air Dodge ( d a m n )
Hoover Dahm ( d a h m ) Air Dahm ( d a h m )
Just for giggles lol
Charles
LOL
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Ahh,
Dam ( d a m ) is OK,,, but Damn ( d a m n ) is not...
Wonder why it corrected my Oct 11 post ?
Charles
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Charles, I made my air dam removable using 3 Dzus fasteners, for the same reason, trailer loading and unloading.
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GH,
I saw pics of your air dam and decided that I too will use dzus and make the air dam removable.
I am using 4 to 6 Dzus ( not sure yet )
I am also going to have tie down loops welded to chassis for easy hook up in trailer and a removable "eye bolt" type tow hook/eye up front for pulling around pits/ return road etc..
I have not decided on a push type device, still at the drawinf board on chute mounting.
I need some good rear end pics of 53 or 54 Studes with chutes ???
No need to reinvent the wheel,, so if any one can send me chute mounting pics I would appreciate it.
Charles
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Charles --
While you're at it . . .
You might consider using a tow bar. Take two tabs out the front, takes about a minute to hook up using a trailer hitch which your truck already has. And, as I think you're taking the car to BV, it's a lot easier and safer towing back from the 6-mile on the long course which is where I hope you'll be running. Now's the time to do it, not later.
Stan
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GH,
I saw pics of your air dam and decided that I too will use dzus and make the air dam removable.
I am using 4 to 6 Dzus ( not sure yet )
I am also going to have tie down loops welded to chassis for easy hook up in trailer and a removable "eye bolt" type tow hook/eye up front for pulling around pits/ return road etc..
I have not decided on a push type device, still at the drawinf board on chute mounting.
I need some good rear end pics of 53 or 54 Studes with chutes ???
No need to reinvent the wheel,, so if any one can send me chute mounting pics I would appreciate it.
Charles
Be sure you brace the bottom of the air dam as we found that ours tried to tuck under at speed. I think ours uses about 8 dzus fastners on the air dam. As many times as I have taken it on and off you would think I would know but I am not sure.
Here is a link to a picture of our chute attachment. http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/hooley/2008-8.jpg The chute mount is hidden in the shade but you can get the general idea. I might be able to find a clearer picture. Hooley added the diagonal braces after he bent the mount twice when he spun the car. I can take a better picture for you if you need it. I will try to remind Hooley to contact you for more information.
John
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This makes it easier to see the mount.
FREUD
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John, thanks for the link...
Hooley sent me his templates for the rear spoiler and spill plates,, so it would be a great help if I could get clear pics of the chute and all attachment points (as I am using his design on the rear spoiler / spill plates).
I am so glad he sent me the templates,,, all you guys are class acts.
Stan,, I think the tabs for a tow bar are a great idea.. I too hope to towing back from the 6 mile as well.... I think GH has them on his Stude,,, will check as he has given me so many good pics to look at.
Thanks again,
Charles
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Freud, Thanks,, that is a clear pic...
It looks like Hooley uses a standard pilot style chute pack ?? ( no tube launcher)
Does anyone Know ? maybe there is a spring launch plate in the pack or maybe just the spring loaded pilot/drone chute that pulls the main chute ?
I know (or think I know) Bob Stroud built it, but he does not remeber what style by car number or color.... Joe T is going to place my order, I would just like to mount like Hooley's if I can.
Charles.
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Freud, Thanks,, that is a clear pic...
It looks like Hooley uses a standard pilot style chute pack ?? ( no tube launcher)
Does anyone Know ? maybe there is a spring launch plate in the pack or maybe just the spring loaded pilot/drone chute that pulls the main chute ?
I know (or think I know) Bob Stroud built it, but he does not remeber what style by car number or color.... Joe T is going to place my order, I would just like to mount like Hooley's if I can.
Charles.
Hooley's is a spring loaded pilot chute made by Bob Stroud.
John
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Here are a few more pics of the finished interior and seat final install.
Also a few exterior shots of the front end in place but not fully lined up and installed, just an idea of ride height and look.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0704.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0705.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0709.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0706.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0710.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0707.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0703.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0712.jpg)
Ok, enough for now,,, off to finish loading the hauler so I can get a good pit at Zmax for the Nostalgic/Hotrod Drags tomorrow.
Charles
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Lookin' good Charles. Have fun at the drags. Good Luck!
Pete
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Thanks PJ,
Gates open at Noon today, we will be there... I have no idea how fast the Vicky will go in the 1/4.. but we are just going to have some fun and hand out. I am hoping for some kinda high 10 second pass (even a 10.99) Everyone is taking bet's with my Maxton gearing I will be lucky to get a 12.00 run.. So I have a few bets out there, Kinda like the Pass Time TV show,,, I bet 10.99 and they bet 12.00 with the closeest to the actual time being the winner,, I feel I made a safe bet,,, we will see later tonight.
Talk soon,
Charles
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:cheers: Give 'em he.. Charles! Good luck this week end! Crow.
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Thanks PJ,
Gates open at Noon today, we will be there... I have no idea how fast the Vicky will go in the 1/4.. but we are just going to have some fun and hand out. I am hoping for some kinda high 10 second pass (even a 10.99) Everyone is taking bet's with my Maxton gearing I will be lucky to get a 12.00 run.. So I have a few bets out there, Kinda like the Pass Time TV show,,, I bet 10.99 and they bet 12.00 with the closeest to the actual time being the winner,, I feel I made a safe bet,,, we will see later tonight.
Talk soon,
Charles
Well, lets all play along:
If your gearing is 4:11 or lower and with slicks, I say 11.78. Anything taller and it will be 12.50-13.20
Best of luck and have fun :cheers:
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Charles,
Does the air dam go on top of (over) the bumper or below the bumper?
Peter
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Tsalt... I won all the bets. Even with my 3.70 gearing the lil Vicky was hauling the mail on the big end,, I was gaining 28mph from the 1/8 to the 1/4 I was not getting into high gear until the 1000 ft mark.
I made it to the top 4 and lost in a double break out in the semi final...
My best run before the semi finals was 11.36 124mph...
So for the semi final round I dialed in a 11.30, I was running against an Altered who dialed a 11.63
I had to spot him off the tree, he had a .070 reaction time, I had a .074 reaction time, I caught him at the 330 ft mark and so I short shifted into 3rd to slow it up a bit, then at the 1000ft mark I still had him by 2 car lenghts but he was still charging, when I knew I had him covered, I rolled all the way out of the throttle and coasted thru the traps beating him by a full car length.
We both broke out,, I ran a 11.20 at 116mph my fastest ET, and slower MPH because I was scrubbing speed to not break out lowered my mph, but he went through at 11.60 and 111mph,,, his fastest time and fastest mph,, guess he was charging to catch me while I was slowing,,, oh well I missed the money round due to driver error,, It's hard not to cross the finish line first,,
So that 11:20 was my best time,,,If the car would hook a little better,,, I know it can do a high 10 sec pass with no changes.
Well even though I did not win, I had fun and advanced further that I thought I would after over 20 years since my last drag race.
Oh by the way Robbie Davis (stratman) brough his big 440 mopar and we ran out LSR cars side by side on out first dial in runs.
We all had a blast.
Charles
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Peter, the air dam in the pics above is just sitting on the floor, it goes over the bumper. We are going to use 6 Dzus fasteners to make it sturdy but easily removable. Should ride about 3" off the ground at current ride height.
I have plenty of adjustability in both front and rear ride height from the current pics,, I can go up or down another 1.5 to 2.0 inches.
Charles
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Cajun,
The car is looking great!!! Can't wait to see it run!!! :cheers:
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Look'in good Charles!
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I would have chopped it first then put the cage in LOL, looks good.
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mkilger,
Now you know on a 53 you can't chop the top for classic class...
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Tsalt... I won all the bets. Even with my 3.70 gearing the lil Vicky was hauling the mail on the big end,, I was gaining 28mph from the 1/8 to the 1/4 I was not getting into high gear until the 1000 ft mark.
I made it to the top 4 and lost in a double break out in the semi final...
My best run before the semi finals was 11.36 124mph...
So for the semi final round I dialed in a 11.30, I was running against an Altered who dialed a 11.63
I had to spot him off the tree, he had a .070 reaction time, I had a .074 reaction time, I caught him at the 330 ft mark and so I short shifted into 3rd to slow it up a bit, then at the 1000ft mark I still had him by 2 car lenghts but he was still charging, when I knew I had him covered, I rolled all the way out of the throttle and coasted thru the traps beating him by a full car length.
We both broke out,, I ran a 11.20 at 116mph my fastest ET, and slower MPH because I was scrubbing speed to not break out lowered my mph, but he went through at 11.60 and 111mph,,, his fastest time and fastest mph,, guess he was charging to catch me while I was slowing,,, oh well I missed the money round due to driver error,, It's hard not to cross the finish line first,,
So that 11:20 was my best time,,,If the car would hook a little better,,, I know it can do a high 10 sec pass with no changes.
Well even though I did not win, I had fun and advanced further that I thought I would after over 20 years since my last drag race.
Oh by the way Robbie Davis (stratman) brough his big 440 mopar and we ran out LSR cars side by side on out first dial in runs.
We all had a blast.
Charles
Thats cool, congrats. :cheers:
Now go to 4.56 rear, a 350 shot of "naus", leave on the bottle and you'll probably go 9.90 :-D
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Tsalt,
I have never been a fan of HP in a bottle... I just like to get as much as I can per cubic inch from a single carb.
That Zmax dragway was one impressive place, I had fun and will probably do some more drag racing with the Vicky, since the Stude will be the primary LSR car. But our LSR family is so much better,,, even in low key deal like Friday night the drag race mentality is not like our LSR family.
I have an extra center chunk with a Detroit Locker and 3.25 gears,, I am going to regear it for the 1/4.. maybe 4.13's or 4.30's.. not sure but think 4.56 might be to low,, unless I use the 4.56 with my 27" tires for the 1/8 and use 29 or 30 tall for the 1/4 ??
Charles
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You dun good CJ !!
Did Stratman fix his fuel problem?
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JD, thanks,,,, but Robbie (stratman) had a loaner fuel regulator and it was no better than his others. He is going to upgrade and get a new fuel pump and regulator and be back strong at Maxton in April.
He lost fuel pressure on his run when he and I did a side by side dial in run Friday. All was not lost for him, they went to ISP and got fixed up with a head and shoulder support. It was just fin for us to both be pitted together at Zmax and get a run,,, all them drag boys liked our LSR cars. Since both Robbie and I drag raced many years ago, we did get to see a few of the guys we ran against and watched in the 80's.
Charles
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I hope to have a few more progress pics of the Studebaker up by Sunday. Have mounted the rear quarter panels, the trunk and doors.. getting ready to install the pedals, shitter, and work on dash/guage layout on Friday afternoon.
Thanks for following my build (this one is taking longer than expected,,)
Charles
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whoa u have a shitter in there? nice! no more need for banzai porta potty runs then. lol :-D
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I don't think this requires me to add another word to the Curse filter. It's too good to hide. Thanks, Charles, for the great typo.
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Oh crap... OK guys,, don't get jealous,, I am not installing a shitter in my Stude... I am however putting a SHIFTER in it,,, LOL,,,, I never said I could spell or type well,,, so I guess I really do fit in with this crowd.
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Charles
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I heard the shitter, oops shifter was a flush handle. : :evil:
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You may not be putting a shitter in the car but after your first spin it might smell like one :-o :-D
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Charles,
How about a stove too You know we like to eat may need shitter afterwards.
Later
Robbie
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OK, I knew boys need to be boys ?? :cheers:
Now MR. Thunder !!! I am doing all I can to make sure there is no spin... but as you well know
"spin" happens :evil: LOL... Hopefully all the homework will pay off and prevent spins, but if it does as long as it stays on all 4 tires and the only thing I am cleaning up is the smell,,, I can deal with that.
Robbie, yeah my brother,, we can do some celebratory eating after a good day at the track.
Charles
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Ok here are some of the first pic's with all the body panels and doors in place
Just set in place, not all lined up yet, all the seams and panel fit's are not perfect yet !!!!
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0751.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0754.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0757.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0755.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0759.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0743.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0758.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0742.jpg)
More to come next weekend,, mocking up pedals, shiFter, steering, dash, guages, switch panel, chute and fire bottle release handles.
Charlers
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Charles,
Looking good. In the picture with you in the car, is there any roll-cage or frame structure outside you left arm in the elbow area? Just curious.
Tom G.
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Desoto,, in that pic it was an exagerated grip on the wheel to see how much room between my elbow and the door and cage bars. I will have a bar just below there, the shoulder supports and a full door net to make sure my left arm can not leave the confines of the cage.
Charles
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Charles, I noticed that some Stude's run vents behind the rear window. Are you planning something similar? Nice work!!! Tony
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Mag,
I have consulted a few other Stude pilots and each has different opinions on those vents.
From what I understand, they use some large i.d. tubing and use it to vent trapped air from above the rearend housing thru the vent tubes and out the holes on the deck behind the rear window.
I am not sure yet if I am going to do this,,, I will make up my mind before we disassemble the car for chassis paint and final body paint.
Charles
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Charles, If you want I can post some good shots of those vents. I will be at the shop tomorrow and there is a car with those vents, though blocked off. Tony
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Tony,, If you don't mind that would be great if you could post a few pics to give me a good idea of how they are made, where they take in air and where it leaves etc...
Thanks,,
Charles
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Tony.
Please post a few pictures, it would be appreciated.
R.
John.
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Charles.
Man that thing finally looks like a car. Nice job!!!
Sorry i missed your call last nite.
Keep up the good work and be sure to post some pics on the in car shiFter.
Later
Robbie
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With that Death Grip --- :-D it appeared you were practicing your "SPIN PROCEDURE" :evil: :cheers:
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Sparky, I have not thought out, written down or practiced my "Spin Procedure" I may consult a few experts on the topic first.... :evil: :cheers:
However I have thought about that pose you mentiond... Not a death grip,,, looks more like I just went into high gear and decided I needed the "shitter" after all... LOL :cheers:
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Thread drift be hanged, I'll jump on the "shiFter" bandwagon. Last week we took delivery of, and next week we'll finish installion of our newest home improvement -- a heated outdoor toilet.
First of all - here's a shot of the back yard area where the device is going. It isn't perfectly aligned but you get the basic idea -- and you can see enough snow to understand why we'd want a heated potty. That's me in the photo, working on the chimney for the heated garage.
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/509%20Dukes%20Road%20stuff/100_2233.jpg)
Okay -- a few shots of Tom delivering the device, and then preparing to use it (you can see him apparently unzipping in the last shot):
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/509%20Dukes%20Road%20stuff/IMG_0888.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/509%20Dukes%20Road%20stuff/IMG_0889.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/509%20Dukes%20Road%20stuff/IMG_0893.jpg)
We got a metal building to better survive the weather up here. By the way, you can see on the near end of the place -- the vent stack, or at least where it pokes through the north wall. We're gonna relieve ourselves in style and warmth. Everyone is welcome to come for a visit. It will be a cathartic experience for you, I promise.
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Can we write on the walls? One of my favorites '' step up piss fast zip up and haul ass'' THE BOSS :-D
JL222
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SSS,
Nice metal building. Who makes it? Great imitation of wood. I want one.
Thanks,
Tom
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Follow this link and select the one you want. Ours is a model 5036 -- next to smallest.
http://www.centralboiler.com/models.php
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Jon,, Nice Garage !!! What size is it ?
Charles
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Jon,, Nice Garage !!! What size is it ?
Charles
I'm guessing, looking at it ,that it would be a "2 Small"...........................all garages are :wink:
I'm not supposing I know everything but I think in Women's size it would be a "2 Big"......... ain't never seen that in men's size.
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28' deep by 32' wide. 10' wide doors -- NICE! 220V for the compressor - and also so the 6kw generator can feed 220 back into the house during power outages. Propane for the unit heater, although the new wood boiler will heat the garage, too. The cedar siding, soffits/fascia, even the shingles match the house -- making the package look nicer. I only got half-way around before racing season, but I'm putting fake rock on the two courses of concrete block -- looks nicer that way.
Here are a few shots of me and the work. To make sure I've got the mortar right I need to taste it, by the way.
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/IMG_0309-1.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/IMG_0311.jpg)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii147/SeldomSeenSlim/IMG_0310.jpg)
PS Dr. G, you're right. I originally said it'd be a fine size -- because we were thinking of selling this place, and a garage would be a nice thing to have in the "package". Then the housing market went to hell in a handbasket -- and we're here after all. Had I planned on staying I would have had the garage be at least half again bigger.
I've got the (fake) rock - in the barn for the winter. Next year I've got only half a garage to finish.
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Slim --
Whathehell is a wood boiler?
Stan
And why not put the potty in the garage?
More Stan
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That's what I was wondering in both cases. :roll: :?
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I went to visit the gentleman who manages our century farm (been in the wife's family over 100 years). This year he put a new wood burning boiler at his home and has his electricity bill now running about $28 per month with the thermostat at 70. The system has about 100 gallons of water in it. He was as proud of it as he is with his tractor collection. He was burning old seed bags and cardboard boxes when I stopped by.
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Okay -- more properly a wood-fired boiler. We heat the house with hot water circulating through radiators -- both baseboard and in-floor. When we bought the house that water was heated with an oil-fired boiler, then I changed to propanne fired -- and now we're going to have the wood boiler to heat with. We've got 55 acres of hardwoods on our 60-acre parcel of land -- and about 10 acres is all it takes to heat the "normal" house -- using only the deadfall, not even harvesting growing trees. We've got very cheap fuel for ever and ever -- if we burn it (the wood). So therefore the wood (fired) boiler. It holds, by the way, 196 gallons of water -- circulates it to the house but not through the household system -- there's a heat exchanger to kep the two waters separate.
Now, there's no bathroom in the garage -- the house is pretty close, and this way I've got more room for tools and toys.
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Charles, These vents are on the back of a Firebird. The original builder told me that the vents were copied from a Stude around 1972. They blocked them off over twenty years ago and ran it a few times and the car has been sitting ever since. Let me know if you need any more pictures. Tony
Behind the rear window.
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj236/maguromic/rearvent1jpg.jpg)
Inside trunk
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj236/maguromic/rearvent2jpg.jpg)
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj236/maguromic/rearvent3jpg.jpg)
Under the car, above the rear axle.
(http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj236/maguromic/rearvent5jpg.jpg)
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Tony, Thanks,, that gives me a good idea how they "piped" the air up and out...
I am still not sure if I need them, but as some will say,, it's a bit eaiser to do them now before we do final paint and fit..
Thanks again.
Charles
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Here are a couple of pictures of the vents from the Cagle San Chez Studebaker.
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Is that legal to do in classic classes?
Just wondering?
Robbie
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Stratman, and All. I was wondering that same thing..Are those vents legal for Classic Class ?
If anyone knows please let us know. Also if anyone has experiance runnung without them on A Stude and with them as well, your insights would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, off to a car show and swap meet/auction now...
Charles
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Hey Slim!
Methinks your A*S*S filter is working overtime in the middle of words.
Stan
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Kinda funny how picures of boobies with pasty pasties is considered acceptable content but the word class isn't. I guess I don't get it......
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Well, I guess it was required, so I did change the filter so it only works on entire words - not on portions of words.
As for the photos of ladies wearing pasties -- since the essential "private" parts are covered I didn't feel that the photos were too risque for publication on the web. Thanks for mentioning it, though -- I see you're paying attention.
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Attention cost to much !! Some pay to little !!... I myself sometimes over analize... oh well ??
We had a good time and the Car Show today... Carolina Blue Skies and 75 degrees... I am sure Winter Temps are not far away.. Good thing we have heated shops so we can finish up all our projects before spring.
Charles
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Charles -- what's a Carolina winter temp? Something really frigid - like maybe 45F? Then plunging to below 32 during the freezing-cold night?
Just wondering. Up here a cold spell will give us -20F on the coldest times -- usually only once or twice a year. Daytime highs in the winter often stay at or near zero for a week or three at a time, though.
Now you know why I've got the new 250,000 BTU/hour boiler and 18 full cords of hardwood.
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Jon,,, looks like you are ready for winter,,, we get some cold spells in the low teens, but not often,, the bad part is when we get freezing rain and the low teens,, major power outages, down power lines and trees.. But still not as cold as your winters or the ones we had growing up in the High Desert of Oregon.
Charles
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Well, I guess it was required, so I did change the filter so it only works on entire words - not on portions of words.
Serious?....for a long time there I couldn't use my photobucket site because it is called "fourdoorshitbox"......so I'm checkin' , right here , right now if it'll get through again.....half the photo's on our Australian Bellytank thread disappeared when that happened....
wow, I just previewed it and it seems yr right Slimbo, thanks...
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Dang -- I hope I won't regret telling you folks my secrets. Behave yourselves, hear?
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Larry and I made good progress today. I forgot my camera and so I will have to post more pics later this weekend.
We mounted the Wilwood Hanging pedal/master Cyl assembly. Mocked up and tacked all steering rods,joints and shafts as well as the wheel and quick disconnect hub. Made the templates for the dash, the switch panel and all the mounting tabs for the fire system pull cables and the chute pull cable attachments Found a shifter lever with the correct height and arc for me. Larry must have welded in 12 to 14 tubular gussets to every place tubes join.
Larry tacked in the long awaited "big mans" drivers door bar.
Now for the weekend,,,Hoping to finish the dash/gauge panel and switch panel this week and get head start on the front inner fenders. and final mount the front end and air dam.
Ordered Chute too...
Charles
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Good show; you folks have been busy!!
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Pics from Wednesdays work. Larry was busy welding gussets,,,, also fit up Steering assembly, pedals, door bar, etc
At EACH of the cage tubes welded junction, Larry put a 1" x .120 DOM tubular gusset.
(Frame is 2"x4"x.120 and cage is 1 3/4 x.120 DOM Tubing)
All finish TIG welding will be done when we remove the body in a few weeks for paint
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/DoorBar.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0770.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0776.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0775.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0774.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0773.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0772.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0771.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0782.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0781.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0779.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0778.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0777.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0788.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0787.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0786.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0784.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0783.jpg)
Charles
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Charles,
Nice work i like that big man bar i need one those in my car!
Where is the loud pedal?
Got the head and should restraint on my seat just got to get the seat back in now.
That is a neat setup.
Later
Robbie
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Robbie,,, we are waiting to install the GAS Pedal, have to build up a heel pad.
Take some pics of your new ISP Head and Shoulder Supports and post.. We all would like to see.
Also,,,I thought you would like my Bent "Big Man Door Bar" hope Kiwi Steve from SCTA approves it ??
Charles
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Charles.
I would mount that seat a little better. Maybe one or two pop rivets!!!
Robbie
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Charlkes --
Still got the gussets to go, right?
Page 25, 2009 book.
Stan
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Stan, I am not using plate gussets.. I am using Tubular Gussets and I have twice as many as the rules require.
"ON NEW CONSTRUCTION A PROPER TUBING GUSSET IS REQUIRED"
This is what I was told By Joe Timney of ECTA and Kiwi Steve from SCTA
Do you think my tubular gussets are going to be a problem ?
I may end up wishing I had that conversation in writing, but each of my main hoop and other main cage junctions all have a tubular gusset.
Charles
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Charles, Really nice work!!! Cant wait to see your car. Tony
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Tony, thanks If all goes well and we make enough speed (and all holds together) at Loring on August 1, 2010, plan to be on the Salt for at least one of the events in 2010.
Charles
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I don't know anything about ECTA. But I saw pg. 25. We ain't hurting for weight. Why not just follow the written rule and not have to worry about it.
Stan
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Stan, heck we are not concerned about weight either,, (I am the driver and I weigh 375, so we are just worried about the weight being balanced properly, once I get in) My next big question is what is the proper Front to Rear weight distribution for this type of car ?
The tubular gussets weigh more than 1/8" plate gussets. Also I have 4 times more gussets than the required 4 per side. We chose to use tubular gussets, as we where told that they are stronger and provide not just shear protection, but some added structural rigidity and tube support. In the opinion of pro chassis builders the tubular gussets are a step above the minimum requirements of the basic .125 plate gussets.
We where not going against the book to cut corners, we where trying to be safer and exceed the minimums.
Thanks for your concern and keep the ideas, opinions and comments coming,,, this build diary has multiple purposes and one is to resolve problems here and in the shop before we head to the salt.
My Bell Housing mistake was caught and resolved within a few days of me posting those pics and although I had to buy another Bell Housing and make new mounts and buy another release bearing,,,this board saved my bacon on that pick...
Charles
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When I was building my car back in 2001, Joe Timney told me to have about 51% on the front end, it works great at 248 mph.
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GH,
I like the sound of that "GREAT at 248" You need that as a Bumper Sticker on your Fine Stude !!!!
If I could just say "Feels Fine at 209" I would be happy !
(At Maxton and Loring that would get me in the 200MPH Clubs, I have more research to do to see what I need/want to do at an SCTA event to get the Red Hat)
Gary, thanks again for all your help and encouragement. I appreciate you taking the time to mail me all the pictures for my research early in the build.
Charles
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Close up pics of tubular gussets to main cage junctions.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0796-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0797-1.jpg)
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(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0798.jpg)
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Drivers View, Dash, Switch and Electronics Panel..
View of the Dash/Gauge Area looking from the seat at Head Height
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0793.jpg)
Switch Panel, mounted to Box that will hold all electronics and wiring
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0794.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0789.jpg)
Just below the black switch Panel, I will install/position the Fire System Pull Handles.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0791.jpg)
The Chute Release pull will be mounted in the lower left corner of the box face, just to the right of the steering wheel and above the shifter ball. If you look close I think you can see the shifter ball above my right knee.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0795.jpg)
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See I am not just a "black and white thinker" here are my thoughts in Color.. :cheers:
Chute Release is BLUE !!!
Fire Release is RED !!!
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/SwitchPanel.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Gauges.jpg)
This layout allows me to see all the gauges, switches and safety devices without turning my head, all controls are within 5 to 10 inches of my right hand and can be operated without taking my eye off the road.. May need a bit of tweaking later, but so far so good.
Charles
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Charles,
Well done! Thanks for sharing the details.
I like your dash and switch panel mockup. This gives me an idea to add to your thoughts. I will scan or photograph the gauges and print them out full size. I can then move them around with tape to determine the correct location before drilling holes in the panel.
Geo
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Geo, that is how we do it,, Mock everything up in cardboard, then tape pics up etc..
We test fit it all, then I get in the car and make sure I can see, reach and then find and feel all the controls with my eyes closed. Then after all that we proceed to final fit and install.
Good luck on yours.. keep us posted and take plenty of pics....
Charles
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Charles,
Nice work!!!
What kind of chute release are you using lever? pull cable?
Robbie
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Robbie,
As to the chute release. The kit Joe T is getting me from Stroud includes an alumimum Lever, I also have a Round Pull... Which one I use depends on how it all feels with my gloves on and eyes closed.
Charles
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Charles --
I wasn't questioning the safety or the soundness of your decision. I'm certainly not at all qualified to do that. I just found my first BV inspection stressful. And having to expalin something on a new car would add to that. A couple of pounds at shoulder heighth would not upset the balance of the car. And might save an arguement.
Two years ago I had to explain the double-tapered lug nuts as the inspector said I had them on backwards. Then had to explain the SFI dating on only the right side of my newly rewebbed belts. And then had to do math to show that my 1 1/2-old firebottle inspection was okay. I lost that one -- he wrote me up in my log book. He couldn't add 2 to 7. Kept coming up with 8. So I'd (me) would just put the gussets in and be even safer.
I like 45 front and 55 rear, but don't have a Studebaker.
Stan
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Charles,
I like the lever better but was thinking from mount location a pull type would be better.
Just my 2 cents which isn't much anymore.
Robbie
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Stan, I fully see your point and appreciate it. It's folks on here that point our potential "items of concern" that can save me time a stress later. Good points in your last reply, I have the same lugs in my parts bin, so I see your point. I have talked with Kiwi Steve a month or so back about a few Items where my car differs from the book. I am documenting the build quite extensively and making sure we are at or above the requirements in all areas (well except for my drivers door bar, which is unique to my needs, but combined with the other features of the cage and chassis and containment seat with head and shoulder supports, have been blessed so far)
Robbie, yep Lever seems to be the device of choice to deploy the chute...I have seen and used 3 ways in the past.. Lever, T Pull and Round Knob Pull. I will keep you posted.
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No offense, at al, to Kiwi Steve. A real sharp guy. But as they say -- talk is cheap. Get it in writing.
Stan
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Lots more work to do, hope the next few weeks are productive...
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Charles: Great car and really nice work. We all appreciate the details you are showing. I see many ideas that I will try to copy into my coupe. I have a request. When you get to the point of designing and installing the door net please show those details as well. Art
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Art, thanks and yes I will show the door net details,,, as a matter of fact,, If all goes well I may be working/measuring/figuring/cyphering etc on the door net details this Friday afternoon.
I will try to take pics too when we start the mounting process.
(I am leaning towards the poly blend net material over the traditional nylon for added strength)
Charles
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Art,,, FYI,,, my 33 Vicky has a "Full Door Net" you can see some decent pics of it on my photo bucket... That may help you as well ?
follow the blue link in my signature area below the post.
Charles
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The Stude sees the light of day and rolls out for some fresh air today.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0802.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0814.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0816.jpg)
Charles
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:cheers: Beautiful!!!! Crow.
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Crow, Thanks,,
I am working on Chute pack mounting brackets and anchor line attachment points. Once Chute arrives from Stroud, Larry can weld the anchor line attachment stuff and we can mount the chute. Trying to finish layout for Rear Spill Plates and Spoiler and fab it up before Thanksgiving.
Less work in front of us than behind us,,, but have a lot of detail and finish work to do.
Charles
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Looking real good Charles, I bet your just itching to get it finished now that's it's a roller. :cheers:
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Itching is an understatement. Today marks exactly 8 months to the day that we turned the first wrench, we began to disassemble the car on March, 20th 2009,,, Seems like longer than 8 months, (the Vicky was done turn key in less than 8 months from my first drawing to test drive.) So this 8 months seems long,, hope to finish by Feb. 1st.
Oh well back to the shop,,
Charles
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Charles, how'd you get your brand-new shop looking so well used and lived-in in such a short time?
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Jon,
My two personal shops (behind my house) are not used for the "BIG" stuff (heavy welding, fab or paint and body). FYI, the new shop I did the build Diary on last year is now a year old.. and yes it does look a bit broke in now... but try not to do major or "big" work in there.
The big work is done 5 miles away at Rod Crafters in Welcome, NC. (next door to RCR)
Charles
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Way to go Kid! Looks great that's motivation right there, now for all the details and finishing touches. Are you going to run a side skirt from the front fender back? Seen a few cars at SW that had done this, are you at ride height?
Dan
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Basher,
On the side skirt issue. I had not planned on them (as I will be running Classic Gas Altered) and did not think we can use them. ??
Ride height? we do not have the coil overs installed yet. From the current setup height we can raise or lower the ride height. Starting ride height will be 1.5 inch's lower than in the pictures.
Charles
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Charles,
Looking real mean..
I am going to have to get up there and see this in person before to long.
Keep up the long hours and you will be done before you know it. :cheers:
Robbie
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Robbie,
I am off all next week (Tuesday my 15 year old Daughter is having Hip Surgery so Tue , Wed, and Thurs, I will be with Her) But Monday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, I will be around the shops...I know its a 2.5 to 3 hour drive but your welcome to come by for the grand tour most anytime (just let me know)
Charles
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Charles, the car is looking really good.
I can't wait to see it in person at Maxton, and better yet see it perform, she looks like she is gonna fly.
Mike Reichen
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Mike, thanks for the kind words and vote of confidence... Hope she preforms just short of flying.
We are going to start out with my radical lil "E" motor for 2010 and then use a more serious "C" motor after that.
Charles
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Charles, NO FLYING allowed.
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Charles, NO FLYING allowed.
Glen, roger that my friend...but our here we do race on airport runways :cheers:
Charles
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Roof flaps and wings on cars are to keep them wheels down
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Charles,
If you low level fly overs Joe will call the FAA on you. :-D
Robbie
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Charles,
If you low level fly overs Joe will call the FAA on you. :-D
Robbie
I should have enough weight low down that any reports to the FAA will be from the sonic boom from my new headers... not from a low altitude tower buzz..
LOL :cheers:
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Some years back on the salt Gordon Hoyt was on a run in his modified roadster and a low flying chopper came down just over the car for a photo shoot and the prop wash caused the car to spin. To say Gordon was pissed off.....well you know and he never lacked for words.
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Some years back on the salt Gordon Hoyt was on a run in his modified roadster and a low flying chopper came down just over the car for a photo shoot and the prop wash caused the car to spin. To say Gordon was pissed off.....well you know and he never lacked for words.
Well my plans are to go fast enough that a news chopper can't keep up !!! :cheers:
Charles
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Charles Darlin,
You just make sure that any low flying you do is with the wheels touching and if you don't have a pilot license...you can't fly low anyway!! Also, make sure you don't go out the back door...you could get into trouble doing that...somebody might yell atcha.. or take your points away...or not let you run anymore for a few races...or....slap you silly for scaring everybody!! :-o :roll:
Lynda
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I wonder. . .
In '03 I was the "talent" in a photo shoot by Nikon - to introduce a new camera they were bringing out. Part of their publicity included me riding the bike at 60-80 mph across the salt -- with their photographer standing on the landing skid of a helicopter and shooting frame after frame of me. The chopper's skid was as close as 5' from me a good part of the time - and I wasn't unduly affected by the air blast. It was a bit of a bracing feeling, knowing the craft was flying that close -- but the wind didn't make the bike bobble at all.
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John, now that had to be a "blast" :evil:
Where did you get that cool stool ? ,,, what a striking TV Pose ?
Maybe we need to get some action shots and press like that at Maxton too?
It's only Nov 22 and I miss racing already !!!
Oh well back to the design table,,, got to get a head start on tomorrow....
Charles
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That's just my regular rollaround stool for the shop/pit/ You can usually see it under me at Tech at Maxton. Nancy took the photo of me, bike, and 'copter -- while Nikon was doing a video interview from straight-on. It was fun, I admit -- they chased me up and down the salt - shooting photos from a Mustang convertible, a mini-van with the camera mounted on the end of a long pole and sticking out the side door -- so the camera could be almost on the ground (as we were moving along at 50 or 60 mph!), and from the 'copter. They took something like 10,000 exposures and an hour or so of video over the two days -- all for ONE photograph they used in the magazine ad. At least a dozen staffers -- and none but Nikon cameras were allowed on the scene. If you had one that said "Canon" or "Kodak" -- they'd kindly ask your forbearance and then cover the "offending name with a bit of masking tape. REALLY!
But they paid me just enough to pay for the spare engine I had to put in (I had blown up the race engine the week before, at WF). Ah, fame has its' costs.
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Charles,
Hope everthing goes alright with your daughter's surgery this week.
We hope to come up after the holidays to get a R3 Rage and check out the Stude.
I will give you some warning and not just show up.
Robbie
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Thanks Robbie,, we are leaving the house at 5:10 in the morning, she has pre op check in at 5:40 and Surgery at 7:00am... If all goes well,, as planned she comes home on Wednesday afternoon. Be on crutches for 2 weeks or so.. Thanks for asking about her,,, Just let me know when you plan on coming up, I will be gald to give you the grand tour.. Call me a day or so ahead so I can be available,, the only 2 days that wont work in the next 2 weeks are Tuesday Dec 1st and Thur Dec 3rd. (FRIDAY the 4th is perfect !!!!)
Talk soon,
Charles
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Hey Kid,
Wishing your daughter the best and hoping she is doing well and will recover quickly.
Have a great Thanksgiving.
Please remember and pray for our country and our troops that make it possible for the rest of us to enjoy the time together.
Regards,
HB2
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Thanks to all my LSR friends and family for the kind thoughts and prayers. My Daughter Caity came home today about Noon. Yesterdays surgery went well and she should only be on crutches for two weeks. (hope this actually fixes the problem this time).
Yes this truly is a time of and for Thanksgiving.
I wish you all a very safe and Happy Thanksgiving
Charles
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Thanks for the update on your daughter. Glad things are well. It's always a worry when you hear about health issues. Good health to all!
Geo
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Charles,
Glad your daughter is doing well. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Lynda
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:cheers: And the same from me , my friend! Crow.
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Same here Charles!! :cheers:
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Charles thats good news.
terry
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It's amazing how fast "our kids" can heal. Just don't judge YOUR recover time, from a similar procedure, to hers.
FREUD
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She is only 15 and had her first hip surgery this May, recovery time was to be 10 weeks,, she was well and full weight bearing in 6 weeks. This surgery is supposed to have a 4 week recovery, My bet is 2 weeks she will be 100%.
She had a good day today. only mild pain and some swelling,,, worst part is the 14 days she has to get a shot in her stomach. Medice to prevent/reduce chance of post surgical blood clots.
All in all a great Thanksgiving,,, awesome Ham and Turkey, I made home made sage dressing, 12 family for dinner and just clearing the House now,, Have a cup of hot java and relaxing now/
Charles
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Charles ... tough for a teenager at Christmas time ... you are right though kids are durable and heal faster ... our thoughts are with you and your daughter ... Bring with you to the April meet and help get some youngsters involved ... she could be in the 2 club someday ... Joe
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Charles, We LSR types all wish her a speedy recovery. Most of us with kids know how difficult it is for them and us. Give her na big hug from the west coast LSR clubs. She will be on her feet soon and able to join in. Sounds like she has a strong mind and the energy needed.
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Charles,
Updates??
We need pics!!!!
Robbie
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Updates : My Daughter Caity is doing great... Thanks for all the concern and well wishes....
: Some design work done on the Studes new Top Secret Paint Scheme ( narrowed down to 3 designs)
: Working on Lettering, Numbering and Logo's
Pics : Have not decided if showing paint/design pics yet !! May wait till car is done, who knows ?
Charles
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Charles ... Paint design ???? I thought you like any color as long it is satin black ???? :-D
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Charles ... Paint design ???? I thought you like any color as long it is satin black ???? :-D
That is about correct. Team Colors are Satin Black, White and Red....
The Vicky is All Satin Black with White Lettering with Red Trim,
(Red and White team logo and Red and White Pinstriping)
Now for the Stude, we will stay with those same 3 colors, but who knows how we will design it ...??
Charles
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Black would get mighty hot out on the salt.
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Black would get mighty hot out on the salt.
I will wear a White Helmet ... :-D
Yep Black will be hot... working on some space age thermal barrier for a headliner.
Also Cool Suit... also ducted A/C from pit vehicle...
In June it was 107 degrees with at least what felt like 1000% Humidity in my Vicky at Maxton,,, I was suited up and staged then shut down twice, once for a bike tossing some parts on the track, then another time for a last minute air pressure check of my left front tire,,, man it was hot,,, no cool suit, no A/C,,, just my big arse in a Black Car....yeah my head sock was ruined lol (I 'll get another one)
The Vicky has no overhead insulation at all,,, this had me thinking of fire proof options for thermal protection (insulation) and designing a ducted air conditioner in the pit vehicle to cool the drivers compartment while in the staging line,,
I am about done with the design,, have till June to Build and test it...
Charles
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Sometimes facing Reality just plain hurts.......
You're gonna do what you're gonna do anyhow.
I learned a long time ago that you just don't ask your wife certain questions. The answer is always NO.
Is that all you ever think of?
Same goes with paint.
FREUD
I posted this in the wrong topic. Go to poll site.
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see what I mean... (about Freud)
and no matter what they tell you, every color is hot on the salt...
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see what I mean... (about Freud)
and no matter what they tell you, every color is hot on the salt...
Stainless,, yes I see,,, and I would agree no matter what color car, bike, liner etc.. you have,,, one thing for sure is in August and September is it is going to be HOT.
Anyone know if Dry Ice is available in or near Wendover ?
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Yes, dry ice is available in West Wendover at Smith's grocery store. It's "soft" dry ice -- consumer grade/temperature, not industrial strength/cold like you might get at a packing plant. Smith's has a freezer unit (supplied by the dry ice company) right by the front door -- by the checkout lines. I don't remember the price, and don't know how much they normally have on hand, but if you've got some information about your needs they'd most likely try to accommodate you.
The ice vendor is a national company -- Airgas or one of the other biggies. They offer these across the nation (I know because I once thought of getting into the business -- until research showed they have it pretty much locked up (iced up?) since they're the wholesaler from whom I'd have to buy my inventory. They don't like to sell it that way -- prefer to own the entire franchise.
But yes, dry ice is available in West Wendover.
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Thanks Jon,
Dry Ice is just one refrigerant option for my ducted forced air cockpit cooler.
Charles
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Charles,
We were thinking about a window A/C and generator in the back of the truck with a duct running to the cockpit.
Just some thoughts.
Robbie
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That would take up more room and more equipment.
My design would mount in the golf cart and use a 4 to 6 inch flex duct and only use two 6" DC truck driver fans or a squirrel cage fan.
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why not get a Preconditioned Air Unit from an airport ... diesel powered trailer ... most are about the size of the Vickie unfortunately.
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Joe, that is kind of big and takes power to run it,,, If my design moves enough COLD air (cfm) it is much more compact and can run off a 12 volt deep cycle marine battery. Cost not counting the consumable (dry ice) would be under $150 to build the unit... That is if it works,,,, and I think it will....
Charles
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I'm sure someone out there has a picture of Rick Vesco's air conditioner... It is a small cooler with a fan blowing air through the ice and down a small duct to the driver... usually see in on their wagon...
I will search my pictures to see if I can find it....
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SS, my design was like what you describe as Vesco's.... I have never seen his or as a matter of fact any pics of remote unit to cool the cockpit.
This should be simple, An insulated box with a forced fan blowing outside air through and over Dry Ice, exiting via a flex duct or ducts into the car.
I am just not certain what the exit temperature of the air will be and what the air velocity will be. Then not sure how long dry ice will last in the cooler with hot outside air being forced over it.
Charles
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You want to breathe in CO2?
We used to run air through a cooler that had a small air-to-air intercooler bathed in ice water. plenty cold, onboard and easy.
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jb2, the fan blows air into a set of alum tubes in the cooler (like heat exchanger tubes in a natural gas or propane heater) the Dry Ice is in the cooler,,, the fan forces outside air through the tubes, out the duct to the cockpit,,
Should be no way for any CO2 to get in the car? or am I missing something ?
If that does not cool the air, then maybe just put regular Ice in the cooler and just change out more often,,, the reason I first thought of Dry Ice, is I felt it was colder and would last longer ?
Maybe I am missing something,,, I am not an engineer,,, I am just the driver :cheers:
Charles
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Charles,
3737 lakester team used hand cart with battery, blower, hose, cooler, and regular ice at Bonneville a few years ago. Driver said they just stuck the hose inside the front of his firesuit until just before time to go then removed it and zipped him up. He said it worked super while he was waiting in staging. With a full body car you've probably got room to run a similar set up on board or maybe pump cool water through a vest for comfort during the run as well.
I didn't make that trip so didn't see the actual set up, just know it got good reviews from the driver, regular ice did just fine. I can get more details and send you a rough sketch if you want.
Take care,
Ed
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Ed, that would be great.
Thanks
Charles
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There are several that wear cool vests. They really do help. A large umbrella helps while in staging as well.
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Charles,
They have a cool suit setup like you are talking about in the CV Products catalog.
If they have one in stock, that you could look at might give you some ideas.
Robbie
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Robbie, I have seen that at CV Products,,, CV is 20 minutes from my shop and I have 2 good friends that work there. The full set up is about $1,100..
They are in the process of seeing if a custom cool shirt can be made in my size.
If they can not do my size or if it's to expensive,
I may start with the on Board Helmet cooling unit,, then use my design for supplemental cockpit cooling.
Based on the June Temps and Humidity at Maxton, I will get a good idea how well the Helmet cooling works alone, then add my design if needed,,,
I know Bonneville is HOT,, but can't imagine having as much humidity.
I have been here at 95 degrees with big humidity and at Las Vegas at 110 with low/ almost no humidity and 110 at Vegas seemed more bearable than here ??
Guess I will just have to see.
Charles
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Here's a cheap and simple cooler:
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Jon, yes that is on the order of what I was thinking, just using larger air supply line and larger CFM fan,
I want that thing blowing a frosty blizzard of air in the car.
Charles
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Charles,
Rig in picture of Slim's post looks like the set up that was described to me which was mounted on a 2 wheeled hand truck. I'll try to get more info for you. Might take a bit to catch up with the driver, he is in his hunting/trapping mode now.
FWIW, June '09 Maxton conditions hit me a LOT harder than '08 Bonneville Speedweek conditions, YMMV.
Ed
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Charles, I have a Kool Shirt that I use in my Stude. I didn't have room for another cooler box (I have a helmet cooler also), so I opted for their satchel style soft bag with the pump in it. It fits nicely behind the drivers seat. It holds a quart of ice water, and works really well. About $450 from Kool Shirt.
p.s. I built my own helmet cooler using a 12v fan from Grainger, a small Igloo cooler, and inch and a quarter copper tubing inside. IT holds one small bag of ice. Total cost aproximately one hundred bucks not including the flex hoses and the now required fire resistant sleeve over the flex hose.
They both are life savers as I have a 25 gallon engine H2O circulation tank sitting in the passenger area, plus I wear nomex underwear and a SFI-20 5 layer suit. When they shut you off on the line for a twenty minute clean-up of the course, you want it all. A blanket over the windshield is also a big help when you are sitting ready to go. (remove before run) :-D Bob
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Bob,,, yeah,, removing the windshield blanket before the run sure sounds like a good idea,,,, are you reminding us because of a recent brain fart ??? LOL
Ed, I would have thought with the Humidity at Maxton in June, that Bonneville could not be worse,, thanks for letting me know,,, But June at Maxton, both 08 and 09 where almost unbearable once suited up,,, I felt bad for the bike pilots in full leathers,,, and no shade... I made it through,,, thanks to some shade in my "black car" and lots of water,,, and a few trips to the truck for some A/C...
That is what made me think of a portable air cooler for Maxton in June and Bonneville,, longer lines, more sun probable, and less/longer time between rests in the pits.
Charles
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Charles:
Bonneville under a full sun (which is pretty common at SpeedWeek) is hot - no question about it. One time, at about 3PM, I walked into the pit of the Moreau-McBride 'liner. They had a nicely-built shaded rig -- and a weather station inside. It showed 103F and 11% humidity. Thats a common humidity reading. Your sweat will evaporate pretty well and really will help cool you. But - it's so hot that I've noticed the chief bike inspector issue wide-brimmed orange inspector's hats to each of us, and he also would walk around to each inspector - asking if the guy had peed recently. If he got a "no" answer he'd tell me (or whomever) that "You're not drinking enough liquids" and immediately hand us a bottle of water or a sport drink.
I've used this story about keeping cool and hydrated many times.
When you get up in the morning -- immediately start drinking fluids. Force 'em down -- try to have a quart or two in you before you get to the track. Get a good head start. Then - keep drinking all day long. I've had it happen when I didn't get enough liquid during the day - that at about 2 or 3 in the afternoon I'd realize that I hadn't peed all day -- and I still didn't have to go. That is not good, not even acceptable. You need the fluids. You'll find out at Bville that the universal greeting of one racer to another, upon visiting in the pits or in staging lines, is "Need a drink?" Make sure you've got plenty of liquids with you -- in the pit, in the support truck - at all times, not only for yourself and your crew, but also for the many folks that'll be offering you a drink - you'll want to return the favor. By the way -- Nancy and I consume so much Gatorade/Powerade -- that we buy it in dry bulk and mix our own at the motel/apartment the evenings before we go to the track. It costs about half as much to mix it ourselves - and by doing it the night before we have plenty of time to refrigerate it and therefore save precious ice in the cooler.
A couple of years ago PPG was a sponsor out there -- and their contribution was case after case of bottled water at the start line -- free for all racers and crew. Stay hydrated.
I've had (fairly) experienced racers and crew visit our pit - and get woozy with early stages of heat stroke. Learn what to do for others, and learn how to recognize the symptoms as they move in on you. Don't be embarrassed to tell someone that you need a drink -- your welfare is important to everyone.
By the way -- one thing that many folks don't think of taking to trackside (Maxton or Bonneville) is a big jug of water for non-drinking needs. Not only do you sometimes want to wash a part or rinse off some salt - but it's inevitable that your hands will get grimy and salt-encrusted. It's nice to have a five-gallon jug of water to squander on hand washing (instead of using expensive bottled water for washing).
I could go on -- and you'll eventually learn just how important it is to have plenty of liquids at Bonneville - just like at Maxton.
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Jon, very good info and insights.
For many years I was the Match Director and Chief Range Officer for our local Cowboy Action Shooting Club and the NC State Championship Shootout, This was a major State Shoot and was contested over 4 days (5 days for the officials) in June.
Hot and Humid for sure. The first year we had several workers and a few competitors fall out from heat related issue,,, ie they did not drink enough water.
We learned are lesson and since then we have provided FREE ICE and FREE Bottled Water to everyone (even spectators) The last year I ran this event we went through 250 10 lb bags of ice (the Ice company brought us the freezer unit full ) and 80 cases of water. That does not include the water folks brought them self, the free pepsi products donated or the 100 + gallons of mixed gatoraide (like you described)
So yes... getting ahead on your daily fluids and drinking all through the day is very important,,,
Charles
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When I worked in Prudhoe Bay in the early 80's, the climate was so dry that our skin would crack in places you wouldn't believe. They told us that if our urine wasn't clear, we were not drinking enough water.
I beat on all my crew continuously to keep drinking gatoraid and water. I also keep a lot of fresh fruit in coolers (bananas get real ugly in the sun) and eat very little starch's or meat while on the salt.
9
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Charles,
Where are the spoiler pic's?
Or is that a work in progress still.
Robbie
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Robbie, I trashed the hinged / adjustable spolier idea,,, had to start over.
I am off from regular job tomorrow afternoon,,, Should have spolier completely done and installed.
Decided to go with removable gurney flap/ wicker bill,,, at the tail end of the spolier,,,building 3 to start.
15 degree, 30 degree and 45 degree,,, that way no major bending after the fact and I am using heavier material.
Should have more pics posted by Friday night.
Charles
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Charles,
Sorry the hinge idea didn't work.
Did you get some good pictures of Hooley's.
Robbie
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Robbie, yes I got some good pics,,
I could have worked out the hinged set up, but figured,, I have no idea what the heck I am doing aero wise, so what do I need and infinitely adjustable rear spoiler for,,,??
Decided to take a more simple and sturdy approach and build a fixed spoiler and spill plate with the 3 gurney flap/wicker bill deals ...
Since my trunk is functional and I need to get in it.. (The fuel cell and batteries are in the trunk.) I designed the spoiler as a removable 4 piece assembly that is bolted to and braced from the trunk. That way I can get to the chute, chute mounts, and inside the trunk and even adjust the gurney flap/wicker bill with out any interference.
The spill plates have a slight "air convergence" design,,, which in theory should aide in rear lateral stability while allowing the air over the trunk to create a downward/pushing motion,,, with just an ever so slight amount of additional drag.
The whole thing is removable in the tunnel or at the track,,, in case I am 100% wrong,, me being wrong is entirely possible.
Charles
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Charles, PM sent.
Pete
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Better check the rules on spill plates...........................Bob
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Charles.
Your car is looking great; you all have been very busy! It's a real treat seeing a Studebaker with fenders and wheels.
R.
John.
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Bob,
I looked at the rules and looks like spill plates are ok in Classic Gas Altered... I have seen many pics of 53/54 Studes with spill plates.. ??
Are you saying they are not legal ? or just make sure mine conform to the size restrictions.
Any help is much appreciated,,, (we have also made the entire spill plate/spolier as a 3 pc unit and it can be un bolted and altered if needed on the spot,,, but hope it is ok fom the get go)
Charles
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PJ,
got your PM and reply sent,,, pics later tonight (I hope)
Charles
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Charles, maybe I misunderstand your "air convergence" statement. The spill plates must be parallel, and flat in plane.
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oops
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Thats what makes this site so great for all of us. I have misread the rules more than once, and more than once information on the site has pointed me in the right direction again.
Don't, however, take anything as Gospel, especially if its from Stainless or any of those two wheel weirdo's........ :-D......................Bob
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Bob,
I just read the entire rule book SCTA 09 and I saw the rules on the roof rails, size, placement and parallel ect,
I also read the spoiler and side plates section. From what I have read and with the help of the folks on the this site,, I "think" I am ok,,, but as a back up, we have built in adjustability, adaptability and removability in to many aspects of this build,,,
I am not going to haul all the way to the Salt and be turned away,,, we are doing everything we can to unload and pass tech the first time with NO ISSUES,, but if we have to make changes we will.
Thanks again for all your help,,, it is VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
Charles..
Pics to follow shortly
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Spoiler Pics,,,
Gosh I hope this is OK,,, I read and re read the 09 rules till I was punch drunk, then said what the heck,, now it is built and installed,,, here goes,,,
The plan is to either Powder Coat or Anodize the spolier and side plates (either way will be more durable than paint)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0826.jpg)
As you may see, the last inch of the flat horizontal spolier is angled up in this pic 30 degrees, we have 15, 30 and 45 degree lips made up as well as larger ones if needed. (this piece is removable with just five bolts)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0830.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0829.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0827.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0834.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0833.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0832.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0825.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0828.jpg)
We still have to put the turnbuckle braces under the spolier to the base of the trunk for strenght and support from sagging. The entire unit is .100 thick alumimum,, but we will brace them too.
Chute just came in today,, maybe work on that tomorrow (if we arn't redoing this darn spolier)
Charles
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Charles, lookin good, are you planning to make Speedweek this year?
Bob, two wheel weirdo?? I guess I resemble that remark. 8-)
Fred
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Fred,
Bonneville 2010 is the plan, Speed Week is the Primary Focus for our trip out West.
World of Speed is the back up plan.
Looks like the Stude will be done by end of Feb. and debut at Maxton in April.
I will be doing Loring and if we can break 200mph there,,,then I may have some sponsorship to get me to SW
Charles
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Looks good Charles. Why not carry an absolutely flat plate too. You may find that you that you can run fully trimmed out.
Pete
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Charles,
Looking good.
Glad to see you got your chute that didn't take long.
Robbie
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PJ, that is a great tip,,, we will make a flat plate as well... the 15 degree looks darn near flat, but laying a flat one next to it you can see the differance.
Robbie, thanks man,, yep the chute came in less than 3 weeks (even with the Thanksgiving Holiday)
Working on the final cardboard mock up. Could not finish the combo mount until the chute and spolier where both here.
I think the mount and chute pack will come out Ok.
Keeping in mind we are just a bunch of country bumpkin, back yard builders and wanna be racers :-D the build might come out OK
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Charles Darlin, if you're coming to Speed Week, then somebody better let me know when you're racing so that I can make a "sneak" get away and come out to see you race!! I have put in a few requests from other racers to do the same, but so far, only a couple have managed to let me know! Of course, if the start line is as close as it was for World Finals, I could watch you from Land's End....not the same, but could at least see you for that first mile or two!!
Lynda
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Lynda darlin,, of course I will make certain you get notified.
Glad to see you back online.
Charles
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Thanks to Papi, my computer has survived the surgery...at least for another year or so! And thanks, it's good to be back...I've been lonely! :-D
Lynda
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Paint Scheme pics posted on the Poll post...
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Front Inner Fenders about done,,, I will try to post a few progress pics of them later today/tonight,,,,when my camera thaws out,,,,
Charles
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Charles,
Have you got that camera thawed out yet :? :?
Robbie
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I took a few pics Friday of the inner fenders,,, but my desktop in the shop is not responding to the upload to photobucket,,, Hope to try to fix tomorrow evening.... before LSR Chat Time
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Finally got the pics of the Inner Fenders. They bolt in and the front end slides right in. The Front Fenders will Dzus to the inner fenders in two to three places on each side.
Here are several views.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0836.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0835.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0839-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0838.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0857.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0856-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0863-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0862-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0861-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0860.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Venable-Stude-Dversion.jpg)
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Charles,
Sweeet!!!!! :cheers: :cheers:
Man I bet that was a pain the butt, but they sure look good.
Glad to see you got the puter working again.
Robbie
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Thanks Robbie,
The inner fenders ?? NOT EASY at all. Notice the scoop out for the headers to exit thru the lower front fenders ??
I loaded the pics from the camera to the desktop in Shop 1. then uploaded 1 at a time to photobucket,,, then came inside (we have over 4 inches of snow now, still coming down and COLD).. Then from my recliner here in the toasty media room, I used my laptop to upload to this site.
Oh, well done for now,,, Trying to decide on Radiator, Shroud and Fan and mounting,, then have to design some air inlets (that can be blocked off if needed) AFCO ? Be Cool ? Griffen ? Walker ?
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Yall be safe in that snow, this is North Carolina :lol:
Just rain here and looks like that's about all we will get. :cheers:
Robbie
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AFCO 2 pass
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Sparky,, I was thinking the same thing. Just need to find one 26.5" to 27.5" overall width. and no more than 22" tall.
Most Double Pass are wider and have inlet and outlet on Passenger side.. (that is OK) if I can stay within the above max Width and Height,,, Core or tank can be 3" thick or more,, have planty of room that way.
Charles
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Charles - call my friend Steve Wilson at Arrow Thermal 980/621-0742 - he builds all my custom radiators at reasonable prices, plus, he's located right beside ISP next to the Speedway! Or, email me a sketch of what you want and I'll get a quote from him. vic
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Mine is 24" OL and about 20" wide---they should be able to fix you right up I will be building heat excanges out of mine will show on build picts
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Vic,
I am off from my real job the week after Christmas,,, why don't you come to Welcome,, see my place and then we can go to Rod Crafters and I will give you the grand tour and you can see the Stude up close ?
Charles
Sparky,, post pics when you build the heat exchanger
Charles
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Charles, that sure is awful pretty work to take out on the salt.
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have some on 2 II now
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Charles - Will do. I'll call after Xmas and we'll pick a day; I found your # (6743) amongst the mess on my desk. Happy holidays. vic
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GH,
All that aluminum under the hood will be powder coated on both sides (once we finish all the mounts and tabs).
I would hope the powder coat would hold up against the salt better than the bare aluminum or paint.
The Rear Spoiler is also Aluminum and it will be powder coated as well.
My Plan is any aluminum will be powdercoated.. Thought about anodizing ?? But not sure how that would work?
Vic, yes that's my cell # call anytime,, I should be working on my Stude at Rod Crafters the week after Christmas (Monday - Thursday) We are closed Friday (New Years Day)
Call ahead and let me know your ETA..
Charles
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Charles. how thick was the aluminum you welded together for the inner fenders? What was the alloy?
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Wobbly,
If I remember correctly we used .080 6061 T6 Aluminum Sheet.
It is strong, workable and has good corrosion resistance.
Also the .080 will provide some extra rigidity once bolted in place.
Charles
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Charles,
Been my experience [bike and transport van 2 years and crew on a car towed on an open trailer 1 year] that the big salt problems originate in the "catcher and keeper" nooks and crannies. Anything done to minimize [and pre treat/protect them] makes post salt event clean up [a must do asap] much easier. Larger, flatter surfaces seem to survive much better. YMMV.
Ed
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Ed, thanks for the heads up.
We are minimizing all the nooks and crannies and making the front end, entire body and interior panels removable for post salt clean up and inspection.
I am sure I am in for a bigger mess than I realize,,, have to learn form you old Salt Dog veterans.
Charles
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Charles,
It's time to go back to work 102 days to Maxton!!! :cheers: :cheers:
Robbie
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Your idea of keeping things simple and making the car easy to take apart for cleaning and inspection is a really good idea. It is extra work now but it will save time and trouble in future years. Thanks for the info on the metal.
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Wobbly, yes the easy off body (or maybe not easy,, but at least removable will help in post salt clean up).
Robbie,, 102 Days,,, Man,, I sure hope we get done,... Hope to get headers build and finish front end mounts and radiator mounts,, then we can remove the body, disassemble and go to paint and reassemble..
all in 90 days ? Oh my,,, I need more hands on the project,,, just Larry and Me may not cut it.. need a big push of progress !!!!
See ya in a week or two ? Friday the 8th I am available.. but the 15th.. I am out of town
Maybe you can come up on the 8th or the 22nd ???
Let me know
Charles
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Combo Chute Mount/Push Bar has been completed. -- Joe T thanks for the pic and the advice..
Robbie, we "hard" mounted the unit rather than make it removable hitch style. I think you are right about the strenght and less parts to fail.
I will post pictures tomorrow night.
Tomorrow , have to make and install the roof rails, finish mount the air dam, finish mount the front end. Try to figure the rad mounts , Rad will be angled like an older 70's/80"s Vette. Seat front support legs, lap belt mounts, sub belt mounts.
Get NACA ducts for driver fresh air intake and cockpit exhaust venting.
Buying a few Lotto tickets,,, need any help I can to finish the build,,, ???
Charles
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Vic,
Thanks for the good ideas (on some aero things to kick around)
Hope you enjoyed the tour of the 3 shops, the local lunch hang out and had a good time today.
I enjoyed the chat and bench racing.
Keep in touch... I will definitely call you before we go to the wind tunnel.
Charles
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A few pics from today.
Push Bar/Chute Mount, Spoiler Supports, Front Air Dam..
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0873.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0886-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0884.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0883.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0882-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0881-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0876-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0875-1.jpg)
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Nice STUFF Charles :cheers:
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Looking good :cheers:
Did you make the chute mount removable :?
Robbie
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Charles - enjoyed the visit. Sorry I slowed down production so much! If you get in a bind and need a hand, let me know. vic
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Robbie, the push bar/chute mount is not removable. After a lot of thought, I decided that fully welded and braced to the chassis was much stronger. No reason to have it removable,, as we kept it as close to the bumper as possible, yet allowiing push truck to get to push bar wheel and no t touch chute or spoiler.
CV
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Vic,,, no problem,, I/we enjoyed your visit and the insight.
It looks like the Charlotte Spring Auto Fair and Maxton are on the same weekend in April.
If that happens some or most of my all volunteer crew will be at Auto Fair on Thur,Fri and "possible Saturday".... Thus putting me at a lose for help at the track..!!!!
I may be on the look out for some help at the track...
Charles
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hows the car coming along ???
terry
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Charles, what's the story? I just went back and started to go through this thread and all the pictures have been deleted from Photobucket.
Pete
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Peter,
Man, thanks for the heads up !!!..... Don't worry the project is not quite bankrupt now and we are not in secrecy mode... LOL ...
My photobucket account was getting full and unorganized,, I was segmenting the pics into albums,,, since I linked the photos, when the album name changed the links changes and all the photos I posted went white...
Oh man,,,all that work is gone ???
Charles
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PJ...It's fixed now,,,, whew !!!!!! almost a catastrophe
Charles
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And it's looking good! :cheers:
Pete
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Thanks PJ.... Roof Rails about done,,, Final Fitting of Front end and mounting Eye Bolts for tying down and tow bar about done,,,then final fit of hood and hood pins,,, This should all be done by Noon Saturday,,, then I can take car to get the headers made,, then by end of month we can disassemble and finish all welds and paint.
Take care,,,
Charles
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Wow,,, 13 days since my last post ?? Well this morning we rolled the Stude out of the shop and winched her into my trailer for the 40 mile ride down to Derek's shop so he can build the headers on the car.
We encountered an unexpected situation,,, the Stude almost did not fit in my enclosed trailer. we had to re do the tie down areas and internal wheel chocks,,, hmm,, glad we found out today,, not the day we would be loading for the track,,, Yes the Stude is longer than all my other cars,,, but with the now "fixed" chute/push bar mount,, the car barely fits in the trailer with the tool box and parts bin up front,,, Oh well now I am going to be forced to get a longer trailer,,,, man the bills keep adding up !!!!
Hope to have Headers done and car back for disassembly and paint in two weeks.
Charles
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Methinks un-fixing the pushbar would be cheaper than a new trailer.
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Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you wanted. Oh a tape measure helps in the planing stages. I had a rear engine dragster that was longer then my garage and $10 K later and an 8 foot extension and raising a shelf the car with wing would fit. SHxt happens.
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Stan, I had plans on a longer trailer,,, just not today !!!!... The Stude fits in current trailer,, after I had to modify the ramps. No room up front where tools, winch and parts go. The current trailer is not going to work for more than a short trip..... I should have a 45 Foot triple axle goose neck by April ( I hope )...
Charles
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Charles,
Might consider building a wall frame over the hood area to mount cabinets or tool box storage.
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Charles,
That what you get for listening to me :-D
Robbie
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JD and Robbie,
Robbie, the fixed chute mount as you reccommended is not really the problem,,, the wheel on the push bar is only a few inches past the rear spoiler, so I would have had to deal with the overall length of the trailer anyway. The V Nose trailer I have is long enough, but my internal ramps and tie downs are in the wrong place for the Stude... The Trailer was bought to haul my street rods.. 33,36,38 and 39.. all of them are much shorter than a 53 Stude... So when I put roll away tool box and other stuff in the nose it makes it tight,, real tight with the Stude.
JD, I have my eye on a 45 Foot triple axle goose neck,, it has unfinished room up front for all the tools and work space/living I would need.. just hope to find the extra cash to buy it by April.... May sell one of my other cars to cover cost of finishing the Stude, buying the new trailer and travel costs to Bonneville.
Charles..
PS.. Robbie,, what time ya'll getting to Greensboro this Saturday ?
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Sooo typical of you CK.... nutin but first class solutions. :-D
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JD,,
Well I try to do it right... but sometimes we all have to improvise or get more creative,,, until cash is available I will use my 20ft V Nose enclosed trailer,,, but as soon as I can going to get the gooseneck.
Charles
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We have had 3 Snow Storms last few weeks and my Studebaker is 40 miles from me snowed in. No progress in 2 weeks. Headers have been done for 2 weeks, but the road and loading area at the shop where it is now is so wet we can not get a truck or trailer in there to load up... Hope to get it loaded up and back here to finish up.
It is looking like Maxton in April is going to a long shot (unless I get some more help....soon)
At least I can run the Vicky in April (but that was not my plan or goal)
Oh well,,, The Thrash will continue as soon as the weather clears and the ground dries..
Charles
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Charles- I really feel for you, as I know what it's like to be trying to get your car together and you figure you will barely have enough time to do the job, then WHAAM something has to pop up to make it almost impossible. I can't even relate to how many setbacks there must of been with a project of the magnitude that you are undertaking. Your project looks awesome and I am sure it will be a bullet when it runs.
I wish you the best of luck and smooth sailing from here on out.
Mike Reichen
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Set backs suck! Do what you can do if not april then maybe may.Run the vicky you do have a cool (B) plan.
terry
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:cheers: Hang in there Buddy! You oughta see our weather, 70 to 75 for the next week. Good luch Charles, things will get better! Crow.
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Thanks guys,, I appreciate and needed some words of encouragement... not only is the car stranded,,, I am sick too,,,Tonsillitis, Sore Throat,, lost voice.. But If I had to be sick, at least it is at a time we are not able to work on the car.
Charles
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WOW my 3+ week withdrawal from not seeing my Stude is over,, we got her loaded up at 5:15pm today,, she is resting nicely in the trailer at my house,,, In the morning we unload and get rocking on towards the thrash to finish.
Charles
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Great news Charles!!! :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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I'm so glad you finally got your "Satin Lady" (as Glen calls her) home! Bet she's happy too!
Lynda
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Thanks Lynda and All,
Yep she is back in the shop ready to get finished,,, Today convinced me I have to have a longer trailer... and lower or longer ramp door... the darn driveshaft loop hung up on the ramp...man the frame is LOW... that's good however cause that means most of the weight is low too.
Oh well,,
Rock and Roll is what we have to do to get her done....
Charles
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Aren't there airbag kits for trailers?
Mike
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Works is progressing,
Should have the final fit of the front end, hood and radiator in next two days.
Then we can lift the body off and get SERIOUS with the final cage welding and paint.
It's going to be close for April,,, May is a No Go as I will be out of the country for 10 days... So I want April bad, cause June seems to far away.
More pics and updates soon,
Thanks to all for your interest and support.
Charles
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Chas - call me before you blow it apart. I wanna see it. My schedule flexible this weekend. vic
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Vic, we will not take the stude apart till this Friday/Saturday.
I will call you later in the week.
Take care and talk soon.
Charles
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Well the work resumes,,,,
Today Me and Larry made some progress.
We mounted the radiator, final fit the front end,,, worked on the hood mounts and pins,,, The hood to fender fit is not as good as I like,,, So Larry has some glass work to do. I would have thought buying the complete one piece glass front end and hood from the same place,, it would have fit better.. I guess the fit is average,,, but not to our usual quality or expectations.. Oh well just adds another day to the schedule.
Charles
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More progress today,,, but slow and tedious,,,
I HATE BODY WORK and FIBERGLASS WORK..
Joe came by and helped me fit the hood,, then Larry and I worked on getting all the body lines and gaps as tight and perfects as possible,,, Did I say I hate FIBERGLASS WORK,,,, I am still spitting out that dust...
The Hood and One Piece Front End,, even though they came from same manufacturer,,,, sure needed some help in fitting well,,, I may be to picky,,,???
It's fpr sure,,, we will NOT be ready for April and Maxton with the Stude,,, I will be there with the Vicky,,,
Stude will be there in June, Sept, Oct.... Loring in July/Aug and SW (if she does well and LTA and I have the cash)
Charles
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Fitting the hood/eliminating the big gaps cannot be overlooked if you want to go real fast @ the Salt. You know that; don't think of it as being too picky. Concentrate the effort on the things that affect the speed. vic
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Charles, the problem is probably not in the manufacture. Studebakers had ill fitting front ends, and even the steel ones seldom line up.
You are trying to fill a gap of up to a half inch on each side of the stock hood, and they fit worse at the grill area
My suggestion would be to fit the fenders and hood at the firewall, line it up at the grills, and fill the rest......................Bob
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Bob,
Yes that is what we are doing...
Vic,,, thanks for your help and suggestons
V
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OK, a few more pics of our progress before we take apart and go to paint.
Front End Gaps and Hood Fixed (also eye bolts for tow bar / tie downetc..)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0919.jpg)
Underside of chassis
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0914.jpg)
Rolled outside to breath fresh air
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0906.jpg)
Rear Driveshaft loop and path for fuel line
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0987-1.jpg)
1/4" wall tubing for fuel line to run in as passes by bellhousing. trans area
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0984.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0984.jpg)(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0982.jpg)
Rear Panhard bar and mounts
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0980-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0978.jpg)
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Hey CK, Looks like great progress, your fiberglass hood fit is super, not an easy task. Great to see your on it.
-
Thanks HS,
Yeah we had to cut, bend, and add glass to fit hood nice and tight. We should have be able to finish a few chassis items and then remove the body this week. Then take a break to get the Vicky and the Race Trailer ready for Maxton. Once we get back from Maxton then go FULL SPEED ahead on final paint and reassembly, then the tedious wiring,plumbing and interior finish....Oh my a lot is behind us, bit still a bunch to do.
Charles
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Hey charles its looking good can't wait to see it in person. Still looking like maxton in May? Sam
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Great work. Business like , neat and functional.......... once you get that paint scheme on it it's gonna be a beautiful thing, tough and purposeful.......
For a "new guy" you've really landed some big punches....... , just your diary is a valuable resource for anyone doing what you are.....
Top effort, results next. :cheers:
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Charles --
I see we're using the same brand rear shocks.
Stan
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Charles --
I see we're using the same brand rear shocks.
Stan
Stan, I didn't know your rear end was so elaborate. :-D
-
:cheers: As usual Charles, you amaze me! It is a pleasure watching the Stude progress, knowing I will get to see the fruition of your labors in Bonneville! As always, the quality of yours, and your teams work is impeccable! Looking forward to seeing you on the Salt! Crow.
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Charles --
I see we're using the same brand rear shocks.
Stan
Stan, I didn't know your rear end was so elaborate. :-D
Stan, you have a Keen Eye for detail,,, yes I am sure a bunch of us use good old 1x1 for ride height mock up's of our suspension,,,, BUT, you seem to forget to remove it and insert the appropriate coilovers LOL :cheers: :cheers:.. is is forgetfull or frugal ?? :cheers:
Bville,, I guess elaborate for Stan is using the same size bolts in each shock mount :evil:
Charles
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57, Dr Googles and Crow,
57, I will be at Maxton in April with the Vicky, out to Sea in May and back at Maxton with the Stude in June (cross your fingers).
Dr. G... thanks for the kind words,, yes I/We try to pay attention to detail, fit and finish and keep it neat and business like as you stated. It sure ain't easy, but we are nearing the home stretch of the build.
Crow, man thanks for all your words of encouragement,,, now...GET your Truck done,.. I have not seen any updates ????
Charles
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:-D Yesssss Sirrr! lol Finaly getting some time, will up date. Crow
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Charles,
I'm contemplating a change in my racing hobby from vintage sports cars to LSR, and have found your build thread vary inspirational and enlightening, as I'm considering a similar project. Or, maybe find a car that is already built, and make the mods to it to fit my needs, I'm a large guy like yourself.
I do have a couple of questions for you. First, having limited skills in bodywork & welding, and wanting to try doing a lot of the work myself, are the body panels (the rear quarter for example) on a Studebaker bolted on as your pictures make them look? And second, in the pictures of your roll cage and the containment seat, I don't see any supports for the seat back and headrest to the roll cage, let alone any side support for the seat.
I hope you don't mind if I ask you question as I get started. I've exchanged a few emails with another Stude racer, Gary Hart, and he's been helpful, I'm also considering his car for my start in LSR.
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GEH458,
No problem asking questions. Hope I can help as others have helped me.
Yes the Studebaker "outer" rear quarters are bolted on.
As to not seeing any rear supports for the seat back. There is a 1 3/4" .120 DOM back bar running behind the seat. the seat has a 14 inch wide .1875 (3/16") thick plate bolted from the seat back to the back bar with 3 7/16 grade 8 bolts. The seat back and sides are also .250 (1/4") thick alum and it is bolted thru the floor into the frame on each corner with 4 7/16 grade 8 bolts. You can grab the head rest or the helmet restraint side braces,, and jerk them, shake them and they do not move, but will shake/rock the entire car. Due to my size they built the seat .250 thick in most places with double hip and rib braces. (most seats are .100 to .125 thick)
Also side support, on the right side the trans tunnel comes up to keep the seat from going right, on the left you will see an contoured/curved roll bar (1 3/4 .120 DOM) to keep the seat from moving toward the drivers door.
Also we are adding tabs from the "B" Pillar and the cage to the head rest (for that extra measure of strength) even though it does not seem to need more bracing.
These may be hard to see, if so go to page 9-12 on my photobucket (the blue link below)
Hope your build goes well,,, make sure you post a diary as well.
Charles
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GEH458,
Here are a few larger shots that may show more detail.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0777.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0778.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0781.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0774.jpg)
IMG]http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0743.jpg[/IMG]
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Looking great brother! Keep it up!
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Thanks Rob.... will you be at Maxton in April ?
Charles
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Charles, Is that shoulder bar on the driver side legal for SCTA? I thought it had to go from the main hoop Diagonal down to the front vertical bar. (See fig 1, pg 25, 2010 rule book)
Car looks Great!
Brian
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Brian,
That bar is not "illegal" but it may not be "enough"... There are several reasons for what you call a shoulder bar...
Once my body is off the chassis, I am going to submit pictures of the "entire set up" The "total cage and containment seat" as a package should be approved.
Thanks for the heads up... I am on it,, and will have a ruleing before the car hits the salt.
Charles
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Good News.... Studebaker Update !!!!
The Body came off just as we planned...
1.Remove Hood (4 hood pins)
2.Remove the 1 pc front end (8 Bolts)
3.Remove Inner Fenders ( 5 bolts each)
4.Remove Rear Bumber (4 bolts)
5.Remove Rear Outer Quarter Panels and Braces ( 7 bolts per side)
6.Remove Seat and Belt Brackets ( 15 Bolts)
7. Remove Dash Panel (4 screws)
8. Undo Steering column
9. Remove Trans Tunnel and Front Floor Panels (32 bolts)
10. Remove Main Body to Chassis Mounting Bolts ( 10 Bolts)
This 10 step process took 2.5 hours today... I am sure once car is complete with wiring and fire systems the entire process could take 4 to 5 hours.
We made the body removable so we can completely clean, lubricate and inspect the car when she returns from the salt or for major changes etc.
My photobucket s uploading slow,,, hope to have pics of the body off later tonight or tomorrow.
This is a BIG MILESTONE for me and Larry,,, Our design and goal to have quick body removal worked..
Thanks to Paul as he was a big help today... (first time in a long time I had 3 pairs of hand working on the car at once)
Charles
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Charles, you can use detent pins for attachments where you can. It helps a lot but at Bonneville you have a lot of time to do things.As long as they are not for major structural areas. On electrical we use cannon plugs and terminal strips. ID tags for wires are a good idea as well. Some racers use non di-electric on connections to stop the salt attack. Keep up the good work.
-
Here are a series of pics from today
Rear Tie Down to Chassis
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1003-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1005.jpg)
Header / Collector exit thru front fenders
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1006.jpg)
Front Bumper Brace / Tow Eye attachment
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1012.jpg)
Body coming up slowly
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1013-1.jpg)
Larry raising lift, body coming off fine
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1014-1.jpg)
Houston "we have main body separation"
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1015-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1016-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1017.jpg)
Body clear of chassis
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1018-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1019.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1020-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1021-1.jpg)
Double Back Bar and seat back mounting
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1022-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1024-1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1025-1.jpg)
Done for the day
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1038.jpg)
Now we start the finsih welding and get ready to paint the body and chassis
Charles
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Earlier, I asked about your seat back brace, and with the fourth to last picture above I can now see what you talked about with your answer to my earlier query. Good job.
Gifford
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Gifford,
You are correct.. that pic shows the main back bar with the 3 mounting bolt areas for the seat, the second bar is where the shoulder belts wrap around. I prefer wrar around vs the bolt on.. wrap gives more surface area and guards against any potential shear at mounting tab area. What you can't see is the huge mounting plate and braces on the seat that attaches to the bars you see in that pic.
Charles
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no funny car cage?? how fast do you want to run someday? the car still looks lite to me.
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no funny car cage?? how fast do you want to run someday? the car still looks lite to me.
Correct, no funny cage... max speed 225 (reocord is 212.xxxx) I am to big to get in and out of FC cage.. See prior pics on build diary or photobucket of the containment seat.
Frame is 2x4 .120 wall and 2x3 .1875 wall and 2x2 .250 rear crossmember
Cage is 1 3/4 .120 wall DOM
Cage Tubular Gussets are 1" .120 wall DOM
Frame Crossmembers and other cross members 1x2 .120
Initial Test Run weight for Maxton will be 3,800 to 4,000 lbs
Designing provissions to add up to 600 more lbs low ballast (if needed for the salt)
3,800 to 4,000 is heavy for Maxton and may be about right for LTA
Who knows,, It may actual drive and run good the way it is ??
Charles
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thats good, that makes me feel better going to be a nice car.
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Charles, I ran 219 at 4300 lbs and it handled well on the salt. When I stuffed the BBC in it I couldn't drive the car. Now I am at 5300 and its a handfull, but I have about 250 more h.p. Maybe more nitro will help............... :-D
If it doesn't go faster this year, I am going to sue the Langlo's for leading me astray.... :roll:
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Good luck Bob,
I do not have anywhere near the HP you have... just a little "E" motor.
With the setup and weight I have,,, I can only hope to handle well,,, and your 219mph would be great if I could ever do that with the E motor.
I just hope my Stude does as well in it's class as the many ones that came before and have inspired me.
Like yours, Gary's, and Hooley's
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I sure like the way it all comes apart. You musta been listening well to some salty veterans around here. It will be a lot more complicated, as you stated, when it's plumbed and wired, but well worth the effort. The only thing we've found that gets in more places than salt, is Elmer dust. But it doesn't do the damage and it's a long way from the right coast. See you in August.
Stan
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Stan,
Yes everyone told me how bad the salt is to clean up after and how it gets in places you can not see.
The Plumbing will stay with the chassis as will all the wiring. (notice the switch panel and box where ignition goes, to my right above shifter) Even once plumbed and wired, the body will still lift off with just a few more steps.
It took a lot of thought and extra bracing and super strong firewall and rear fire/blast wall to make the body stiff enough to lift off,,, but all of our work (and LARRY's talent) seems to have paid off so far....)
I am so excited and can now see the finish of the build right arounf the corner. After discussions with Joe T and Dan Warner.... I have decided to build a step pan and test fit before we disassemble the chassis. That should not take more than a few hours.
Happy Easter
Charles
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Hey Charles, just out of curiosity, when you come to Bville with the Stude, is Larry gonna come also? heard alot of this man, seen alot of his work, and SURE would like to meet him! As well as looking forward to meeting you also ! Crow.
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Crow,
The plan is (somwhat dependent on cash,sponsorship and going fast enough at LTA)
Is to bring the Stude to the Salt this year.
And YES .... LARRY will do his best to come out with us...If all works out we will have a big contingent from here in NC make the Trek with us.
Charles
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:-D See you there then, and Happy Easter to all. Crow.
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Ok, Back at the Stude build, Maxton was GREAT this past weekend, but I was a little down not having the Stude finished as expected (and 4 other Studes there, all doing well).. But at least the Vicky made her fastest pass ever on Saturday. 152.8xxxx so all in all a good weekend... very fast speeds, track in the best shape ever, seemed like the largest crowd ever too.
Ok,, now we hit overdrive on getting my Stude ready for June.
Charles
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Charles that sounds good, I know it's difficult with the new car build and running the Vicky. You have the time now to finish it up and get the first lap in. Nice speed on the Vicky.
:cheers:
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Thanks Glen,
What a rush driving a 77 year old body style at 152+ MPH.....Yeah everyone told me it was a brick,,,, but even a brick can fly with some HP and Traction...!!!!
Hope to see you on Chat tomorrow night.
Charles
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Charles --
Was that with the C or the E motor?
Stan
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Stan,
It was the slower "C" motor. The "E" motor only has 6 passes on it from 2008 and is now in the Studebaker.
I hope to run the Studebaker with the "E" motor at Maxton in June.
Charles
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Funny Car Cage would be a real challenge for the Cajun Kid ...
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Funny Car Cage would be a real challenge for the Cajun Kid ...
How did you make my car smaller? Is that trick photography ?
Charles
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Charles --
Don't you remember? That was the night you went to the Legends races and someone had painted one up to look like yours. Quite a tribute!
Stan
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Stan, leave it to you to remember all the facts :cheers:
Let's go with your version of the story...
Charles
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?? hows it going?
terry
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Terry,
Making progress, should have the body painted and chassis about done in less than 2 weeks.
I was Happy to be a Maxton for the April event and the Vicky even ran well (her fastest yet, with more in her)
But all the time I was upset the Stude was not threre,,, especially when I saw 4 othr Studes there 3 cars and a truck),,,
To make sure the Stude is ready for June,,, I have hired a helper to assist in the chassis disassembly and prep for paint,, and then to help put the car back together and do final assembly.
I PLAN to be ready by June.
Charles
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Now that is either a real big guy or a real small car ... Stan might be right it looks like a legends car next Charles.
-
Joe, I swear it has to be trick Photography !!!...
Charles
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Charles, if all goes as planned with your first outing, is speedweek at Bonneville in your plans????
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Gary,
The plan is to shakedown the Stude in late June at Maxton, if all goes well there, I will take it to Maine and if she can do at least 190 in the standing 1.5 mile ( and still be pulling at the finish line) ,,That would at least give me an idea that I could be respectable on the Salt... Then I would beg borrow or steal the $$$ to get to SW or WOS,, some how some way. That is the Plan...
I just hope we finish it time for the June shakedown at Maxton,,,, 1 step at a time...
Charles
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Charles, a dumb question from a bike guy. Packards, Kaisers, Hudsons, Studebakers, etc are not made anymore. A person rarely sees the first three or any of the other extinct brands on the salt. Studebakers have a successful history and they are doing great today. What makes them special?
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its sorta like a chick---it all about the BODY!!!!!!!!!!!!! :-D
-
.... and being a little nuts doesn't hurt either........... :-D
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Charles, a dumb question from a bike guy. Packards, Kaisers, Hudsons, Studebakers, etc are not made anymore. A person rarely sees the first three or any of the other extinct brands on the salt. Studebakers have a successful history and they are doing great today. What makes them special?
Well that is a very subjective question.. If you ask Hooley, Bob D, Gary H and many others you may get a more indepth answer...
Myself, I think the Body and Aero of the 53/54 Studebakers where well ahead of their time. I think they are more CLASSIC than say a Camaro or Monza... and to be honest,,, they just plain look cool and sexy,,,, It sure don't hurt that the aero of the car makes them a good fast choice for the classic classes, plus not everyone has one... And I like them too..
Take a look, hope you see why we like Studes
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Venable-Stude-0228101.jpg)
-
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1662933090.html
I do not know how to link this is a 1954 Stude for sale in Colorado. Pictures look good
GEORGE
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That Stude for sale looks to have some LSR potential,,,, it is even the correct color (except to glossy, LOL) :cheers: :cheers:
$6,300 is a bit more than I would want to pay for that set up, unless all the body and floor panels are in GREAT shape... hard to tell from the pic. But seems to be ok deal for someone wanting a good base to start from, paint job may be to nice for some :evil: :evil: :cheers:...
Charles
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I think most guys that like the Studebakers also like 50 Olds fastbacks, Henry-Js and Willys coupes. Am I wrong???
-
nope!! I love those 49-50 olds fastbacks! :cheers:
Fred
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GH wrong !! No way man you are right on...
Ok back to work,,, have to make a few more $$$$ to finish the Stude on time..
Charles
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you are all ready late.
This coming from some one whoses motor has been on the stand for 6 months :roll:
terry
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I never realized how old these Studebakers are. The aero looks good for an early 50's car. My mother had a Citroen with similar aero in the late 50's and through the 1960's.
-
I just hope that the aero is good enough to do what I need it to with my lil "E" motor.
Until the rubber hits the salt we will not know for sure....all we can do is try to think through each apsect of the build,,,, not all cars are equal,, and I hope we are up to the challenge and have not forgot something important.
Charles
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Charles: Not to hijack the thread, but where are you going on your "out to sea" boat ride? A scenic tour of the French Broad River? A cruise on the Pee Dee Basin?
-
I just hope that the aero is good enough to do what I need it to with my lil "E" motor.
Until the rubber hits the salt we will not know for sure....all we can do is try to think through each apsect of the build,,,, not all cars are equal,, and I hope we are up to the challenge and have not forgot something important.
Charles
Well, it's certainly going to be a bitch'n looking car! What kind of HP is the lil "E" motor going to put out? My good buddy Greg Everitt's stude went 206 with a 600HP "B" motor but I believe he could have gone faster before the engine blew.
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I just hope that the aero is good enough to do what I need it to with my lil "E" motor.
Until the rubber hits the salt we will not know for sure....all we can do is try to think through each apsect of the build,,,, not all cars are equal,, and I hope we are up to the challenge and have not forgot something important.
Charles
Well, it's certainly going to be a bitch'n looking car! What kind of HP is the lil "E" motor going to put out? My good buddy Greg Everitt's stude went 206 with a 600HP "B" motor but I believe he could have gone faster before the engine blew.
I think Greg's Stude ran as a Comp Coupe with a B motor,,, his car a bit more aero than mine.. I would have thought he could run over 225 with his HP and Aero set up,,
The Bonneville Tune on my Stude with my "E" motor should have 550 to 570 HP at the rear wheels. My goal is 215 on a 212.xx record. I may never get there,, but that's my goal,,,
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Charles, you've hit it on the nose -- you've got to have a goal. Whether you'll get there or not is only a small part of the game we all play, but having a goal (a realistic one, by the way) allows you to best monitor your progress and enjoy the steps you end up taking to reach that goal. I've got one for the nitrous bike, Nancy has one on the production bike - and whether we achieve those goals this event or this year -- or not -- we've got something towards which to look. So do you, and it's all good.
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It's surely going to be cool to see. I definitely want a t-shirt if you're bringing any to b'ville to sell. 3xl :-D :cheers:
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SSS,
For our May cruise,,, we are sailing from Florida to San Juan, to St. Thomas, To Antigua, to Tortola, to the Bahamma's and back to Florida... 8 night cruise and 5 ports of call.
T Salt,,,,I always have tee shirts with me,, just forget or don't have the time or the help to display them for sale !
Charles
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:cheers: Couple of larges for me Charles (if you were the criteria for the sizes maybe a Med. or 2 for me) BCNU on the salt! Crow
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Gotcha Crow,
FYI - My avatar is the logo on the back of my current shirts.
Charles
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Got a lot of work done since last weekend.
The chassis is 100% done. We stripped it down to bare chassis and It is on the rack at the powder coater. Will should have it back here Tuesday or Wednesday (depends on if it'sraining, I am not bringing a fresh painted chassis home in the rain.)
Body work should be finished and painted within 10 days. Next Thurs, Fri, and Sat we will reassemble the rolling chassis and start on brakes, plumbing and wiring etc...
I was happy to see the chassis leave the fab shop and go to the powder coater,, I know we are on the home stretch now,,, I will post some pics a bit later..
Charles
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Here are some pics from yesterday after we disassembled a prepared chassis for transport to powder coater.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1086.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1089.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1092.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1096.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1098.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1100.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1102.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1103.jpg)
While chassis, supsension and interior trim are being powder coated,, working on body to prepare to roll in the booth to paint... it's coming together Now !!!!
Charles
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:-D Charles, my friend... You are a dynamo! I'm lovin' the build! thanks for all the pic's, and the rollin' commentary! BCNU Crow.
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For someone in the Pacific Northwest, the best part of the pictures are the shadows and dry driveway.
Cajun, wear your shades.
FREUD
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Charles, I dont want to sound like a smartass but have you sent photos of your cage and chassis to SCTA tech yet?? :| "gussets are required at tube junctions of hoops and shoulder rail. gussets shall be mild steel .125in min thickness and 4in per side. perferably stitch welded on the out side of the tube junction and are required at all shoulder bar attachment points."
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--------------------------------------------------------------------
"Funny Car Cage would be a real challenge for the Cajun Kid "
Challenged or not----Milker is offering some very good advice, I think it is possible your cage might be considered "RULES challenged"
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whos' milker LOL, Sparky are you running elmo in may??
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LOL----Sorry---I guess my dairy farm upbringing is showing through :-P
We are in the throws of "reinventing the wheel" where it comes to intake manifolds and getting our Eng back together we are "out of Heads and Intake manifold" we are going to have to build a smaller Eng or work magic on aero or build a smaller car to be competitive with 77
We are Hoping to run at the end of the season
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It's hard to see everything but it looks like there are diagonal braces at most of the tube junctions, hopefully were the
rule books require them.
JL222
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how does it comply with 3.A.3 lateral ?
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how does it comply with 3.A.3 lateral ?
I believe Charles has a seat that meets the specs.
JL222 :cheers:
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Every major and most every tube junction has "tubular Gussets" 1" round x .120 DOM.. These tubular gussets are superior to those little stitch welded plates. I have gussets at many more places than the rules require
Just one of 20 + gussets as an example.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0658.jpg)
Jim Miller has seen the chassis pics and said all is OK,,, As to lateral movement rules,My containment seat is made of mostly .250 thick alum, (vs .100 to .125 for your average race seat material) also with SFI cert "lateral head and shoulder supports" (far superior to many seats I have seen in use) ,,, I am also sitting at / behind the "B" pillar,,, also have a "full" door net too.
These twp pics are just showing the initial test fit of the seat, more bracing, brakets and cage tube has been added to keep the seat in place. (and me in the seat too)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0705.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0704.jpg)
As and extra precaution, I asked about the 4 plates per side flat gussets vs my 20 +/- tubular gussets,,, before I started, So I hope the email and the phone conversations and my build diary notes and posts, I have had with Kiwi Steve and Jim M are enough.
Additionally, I have consulted Joe Timney and Keith Turk (as to ECTA / LTA rules as well)
I am not trying to reinvent the gusset equation, but felt the tubular ones provide a bit of structural and crush strength, complimenting the main larger 1 3/4 tubes, not just the added protection tothe weld joint as a plate gusset is designed for.
I could be wrong, but don't see how the abundance of these tubular gussets can't be better ?
Testing shoulder restraint fit, before we install the Head Restraint.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_0630-1.jpg).
Charles
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:-o Now how the hell did you get the whole shop to rotate like that? Hard way to test the belts, but if it works it's worth the flipping everything over! (lolololololo)
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:-o Now how the hell did you get the whole shop to rotate like that? Hard way to test the belts, but if it works it's worth the flipping everything over! (lolololololo)
Crow, our test facility is impressive :evil: :evil:... We tought the shoulder supports should fit snug enough to hold me in the seat upside down with no belts on,,, :cheers: :cheers:
FYI- it may be trick photography,, just for fun,,, :cheers:
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Trick photography, no doubt. I could believe that it was real -- I mean, gluing the black car (in the background) to the floor and gluing everything else -- that'd be easy enough. But -- you forgot to make the tag on the fire extinguisher hang in the "upside down" direction. Busted!
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SSS,,, great eye my friend,, you must have turned your monitor upside down, or looked at my pic before your morning cup of coffee.
Charles
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don't tell Mikek, he won't understand, he thinks all beer labels are upside down. :evil:
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well I went to the inspection class last week at Steve's shop, good luck
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well I went to the inspection class last week at Steve's shop, good luck
So in the class did He say absolutely no alternate gusset configurations would be allowed ?
Thanks for the info,,, this is helpfull, as now I will make triple sure I have the build diary, notes and conversation logs present at tech in case this comes up...
I appreciate the heads up.
Charles
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Charles, didn't you work with Joe Timney on the cage design and build? Seems I remember the discussion a while back. The ECTA rule book shows both types of bracing. I would hopoe the way this is a new build it would have had some prior approval.
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well I went to the inspection class last week at Steve's shop, good luck
Our 222 car [Alston chassis] has diagonal braces similar to Charle's chassis and was said to exceed SCTA specs by an inspector chassis builder.
JL222
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Every major and most every tube junction has "tubular Gussets" 1" round x .120 DOM.. These tubular gussets are superior to those little stitch welded plates. I have gussets at many more places than the rules require
Charles
Charles,
I like your Tubular Gussets. I have personally never liked the stitched welded plates. The biggest reason being they are salt collectors. I am sure you are OK, since you got the blessing of the hierarchy of the racing organizations.
Tom G.
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Tube gussets are OK, lets move on.
Why powder coat? We have found that a color that matches a paint that can be bought in a spray can will work great. How many times will you have to add a brackey or modify the frame for some reason?
Grinding off the powder coat and then matching the color after welding is difficult at best.
DW
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Thanks to all on the Powder vs Paint,,, (glad the tubular gusset concern is yesterdays news... LOL) n
Sometimes it just boils down to a choice.
I understand all the concerns associated with Powder Coating, I also understand a few benefits.. I weighed all the options. Time may prove my decision right, wrong or nuetral... then if I was wrong.. oh well we can unbolt and remove the body in well less than 4 hours and try something new...
The one thing I like about this sport and this site is all the info and dialouge we can have and all be friends,, I know you die hard veterens still think I am crazy going with powder,,, but let's just have a drink at sunset on the Salt some day... My Treat..
Charles
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Love to have one with ya at sunset, the problem is the salt police start making their rounds at sunset kicking us off the salt. They do give you a little time, after their 3rd visit they do get a little short. :cheers:
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Nancy and I have been the "salt police" -- at last year's Speedweek, indeed. We wewre doing ok, getting most everyone to happily cooperate, begging for five more minutes or "'til we finish this last beer", or whatever. Then we spied a group of people way the heck towards the mountains, northwest of the end of the course. We drove out there (being careful, but was ready with the 4WD button just in case) -- and what'd we find but about five guys and a video camera. The guys were dressed in somewhat, uhn, outrageous outfits - for guys. On girls they might have been appropriate. See where this is going? They had sorta high voices and were real careful about making sure their eyebrows were combed just so -- and so on.
So we asked this group (Nancy was in no fear of them hitting on her -- I can't say the same about me) why the heck were they out there, and out so late -- and they said they were filming something and had the official BLM permit to do so. Okay, that was a good enough story for us -- they didn't have a clue about the LSR event going on - didn't know there was anything happening -- so we hauled Acura outa there and headed back towards the relative sanctity of the pits -- and folks that were merely half-drunk or doing last-minute wrenching -- lots easier to take.
And that ends this digression. We now return you to the regular topic of Charles' Studebaker build.
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Dan, I disagree with your take on powder coating. In higher humidity climates, paint will not stay on a chassis and suspension parts after a trip or two to the salt. You can clean it off, and three months later it will grow salt back from the humidity and residue. The car will drip wet salt from who knows where all winter in my heated garage at a constant 60 degrees.
After eleven trips to the salt with my Stude, the only things that NEVER rust are stainless bolts, and my powdercoated frame and suspension.
I have ground off powder coating with a sanding disc on a small grinder more than once, and touch up paint is cheap when necessary....................... just my two bits.....................
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Bob,
Your experience is good to know. We just never spent the money on powder coat and our cars have been so fast :-D that the salt didn't stick. Eleven trips is more than we ever made with a single car.
But, the more important item is - sunset is around 9PM, way too late to start drinking.
BYW, my wife was in Las Vegas last weekend so I brewed some Apple Pie for the first time. Too much sugar, too sweet. So after I drink this batch I will try again.
DW
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DW,,, in most cases I would agree that Powder Coating is more expensive than paint.
But in my case,,, I am getting the entire Chassis, all suspension parts, all interior sheetmetal, step pan, roof rails, rear spoiler, inner front fenders etc.. all powder Coated (both sides) for
$400...
I can't paint it for that (when you include time and materials
(to save money, I did spray paint my Headers with Ceramic High Heat Paint) :cheers:
Charles
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Excellent price.
DW
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Excellent price.
DW
DW,,, that is one of the reasons I went this way. Also time frame,, I have no time to paint it. I dropped it off Friday and It will be ready this Tuesday evening.
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I thought the business in NASCAR town would be hopping after the carnage of Talladega. I guess there are more powder coating shops than required.
DW
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Anyone notice that the cot(car of tomorrow) tend to fly when they get backwards and the wing creates lift not down force.
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I think That's why they got rid of it. But never officially said (from what I've seen).
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NASCAR wings on COT,,,I would agree and that is why I never liked the wing... my thoughts are wings help you fly,, spoilers spoil lift.. hmm except when you go backwards,, but yes backwards wings still help you fly and spoilers still seemed to spoil lift.
Charles
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Powder Coater called late yesterday. Chassis and misc parts are finished and ready to pick up. Looks like will have the roller reassembled and all suspension set up and working by Saturday.
Pics to come later...
Charles
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:-o :-o :-o :-o (giggle, giggle) I'm excited!!! Crow.
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Great
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That's fantastic Charles!! Keep up the good work, no time for slacking now!!
Won't be talking to any of you for a while, I'm headed back to Utah tomorrow morning, so.....Everyone keep going on those builds and good luck at your races.
Until we meet again.... Stay Safe. Go Fast. Stay Upright!!
Lynda
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Man it was hot here today... 89 degrees... seemed hotter in the sun when Joe and I loaded the chassis to transport back to Larry's shop. Did not get any work done other than getting the chassis back in Larry's shop and unloading all the interior sheetmetal.
Here are pics from today
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1115.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1114.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1113.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1112.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1111.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1109.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1108.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1107.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1106.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1105.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1104.jpg)
If I can stand the heat tomorrow (Larry's shop is not air conditioned) it is supposed to be 90 degrees. I plan to get all the suspension on and wheels and tires and have it rolling tomorrow. (not sure if I will have any help, may be a one man show tomorrow...Hope Joe can pitch in for 5 or 6 hours,, that should give us enough time to get done)
Charles
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Man,thats nice. I was expecting pink or fuscia for the price. :-D :-D :cheers:
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Man,thats nice. I was expecting pink or fuscia for the price. :-D :-D :cheers:
Thanks,, It came out nice, I would have liked a deeper darker red, this has a hint or orange in it,, but looks good, looks more red when around the black body.
Well,,, more work ahead.
Charles
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Charles, Very impressive !!! :cheers: Tony
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Charles, Very impressive !!! :cheers: Tony
Thanks Tony, we try hard to do good work. I hope it looks good when all back together.
It looked ok in my mind when I dreamed up the project (with help from Joe,, he has a warped mind like me too)
Charles
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Very nice Charles!!!
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Looks great Charles. Can't say I feel to sorry for you about the heat though...I've had to brush the snow off my car last 2 mornings.
Gord
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Keep the photos in a good archive, Charles -- it'll never look that good again. And once it's been to Bonneville -- well, you'll want to have "before" and "after" photos to give out, especially to the shop that did the work.
Sure looks nice now, though. Good Work! :wink:
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Looks great Charles. Can't say I feel to sorry for you about the heat though...I've had to brush the snow off my car last 2 mornings.
Gord
Gord,
If we average our two temps,, it would very comfortable weather.
Charles
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Keep the photos in a good archive, Charles -- it'll never look that good again. And once it's been to Bonneville -- well, you'll want to have "before" and "after" photos to give out, especially to the shop that did the work.
Sure looks nice now, though. Good Work! :wink:
SSS,
The reason we designed the car with a fully removable body was to do everything we can to make sure it stays as close as possible to new looking all the time. We also tried to make as few as possible places for salt to "hide". I know all you salty veterans will tell me it will rust and look like crap,,, I normally defer to your age and wisdom...but not this time,,, LOL
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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any color but pink, LOL looks good. what color did you do the parts of the chassis?
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Charles
I read earlier in your build diary that you intended to use a truck arm suspension.
Why did you decide against it.
I am in the process of trying to decide what rear to use in my Ranchero for Bonneville in 2011 (hopefully)
The car will be street driven, and truck arms look like a good multi purpose solution.
Peter
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WOW Charles That is a work of art . Very nice ..You know I like a red frame. :-)
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any color but pink, LOL looks good. what color did you do the parts of the chassis?
Other Chassis parts are "Satin Black" Rear End is two tone Aluminum and Satin Black, Brackets on rear end housing are all Satin Black. 4 links are Red. Up Front spindles and caliper brackets are Red, A Arms are Stainless, Rack Is Aluminum. Firewall and Inner Fenders are Satin Black.
Interior is all Red,, Inside trunk is all Black...
This may sound all over the place,, but it comes together once numbers and lettering and logo's are painted on.
Charles
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Charles
I read earlier in your build diary that you intended to use a truck arm suspension.
Why did you decide against it.
I am in the process of trying to decide what rear to use in my Ranchero for Bonneville in 2011 (hopefully)
The car will be street driven, and truck arms look like a good multi purpose solution.
Peter
Peter,
Yes our/my first thought was to us truck arm rear suspension (due to local availability) After some thought and mocking up, we felt the 4 Link we used would give us a lower ride height, and much more adjustability.
Charles
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WOW Charles That is a work of art . Very nice ..You know I like a red frame. :-)
Yes, I see you like red frames,,,, I was wondering with your new paint scheme if you needed to change your team Name ???
Your Team name and my paint scheme go well together...
But then again, If you weren't going to paint your bike Satin Black, with White and Red trim and a red frame... I would have used Yellow too !!!
Hope all goes well with your N20 .... see you in June
Charles
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So today was not to good. Had a Doctors appointment at 9:00am, it went long because my veins or whatever kept moving everytime the nurse went to jab me with that darn GIGANTIC DULL NEEDLE,, she stabbed me 4 times before she got the darn thing right. Did not get started till around 11:15am,, then the spindle keyway CUT the palm of my right hand, oh well then in the 90 degree heat the sweat was stinging the cut on my hand. But the work must go on.
Joe helped me get the front suspension on,, we did not put the brakes on,,, I forgot to take the caliper brackets to the powder coater. I will stop by Monday and get a 1/2 pint of his red and Larry will do them for me.
Here are a few pics from today.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1116.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1117.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1118.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1119.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1120.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1121.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1122.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1123.jpg)
Hope to get more done tomorrow.
Charles
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At first I could not figure out why you painted it red :?
the spindle keyway CUT the palm of my right hand
Now I know!
Looks even better with the parts going on. Can't wait for the run report!
Geo
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that racecar will nicer than most show cars when done.
terry
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that racecar will nicer than most show cars when done.
terry
Thanks Terry, I think our attention to fit, finish and all the little details is what has caused the build to be a bit behind my original schedule. But I sure hope that when we are done it comes out LOOKING and RUNNING as good as PLANNED.
Charles
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Charles,
It's starting to look like a race car. It's going to be a shame to cover up that chassis with a body when you're done with the mechanical stuff. Just don't rush your assembly just to make a race date, it would be horrible if you were to overlook something and it caused a problem at the track. Keep the pictures coming.
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Gifford, Hopefully the Body can compliment the chassis. We will take our time and double and triple check everything before the car is ever loaded on the trailer to hit the track for shakedown runs.
More pics as progress continues.
Charles
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Charles... When will the long awaited debut occur .... June-Maxton?
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Charles... When will the long awaited debut occur .... June-Maxton?
e
Joe,
The plan is debut at Maxton in June... a lot of work yet to do, but I sure hope so.. love to have tech done and get a shakedown run and a parchute run in as well,,,
I also have my hotel reserved in Maine,, so in case not ready June,,, will have to work the bugs out at LTA..
My hope is there are no bugs to work out. (the Vicky came off the trailer, passed tech the first time, made a shakedown run then on second pass set the record). So I have just as high expectations for the Stude.
See you in June and July ?
Charles
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I should have some more pics of the rolling chassis later this week. Making progress... 1 step at a time.
Charles
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A few more Chassis updates. Quick Change Rear is installed, rear suspension is in, Combo rear inner floor/firewall/drive shaft tunnel is in. (next will be front and rear brakes).
Rear Firewall/Floor/Driveshaft tunnel unit.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1130.jpg)
Various shots of rear suspension componets
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1129.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1127.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1126.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1125.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1124.jpg)
Ignition/Switch Panel
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1128.jpg)
Hope to get a lot more done this Friday evening and Saturday morning.
Charles
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I will be down in June and can help if there are any "Bugs" which I doubt ... based on the workmanship I saw on the Vickie .... Joe
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I will be down in June and can help if there are any "Bugs" which I doubt ... based on the workmanship I saw on the Vickie .... Joe
I am sure I can count on your help (if needed),,, my main goal is just to get there in June..
Charles
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Brakes are installed, wheels and tires on. Hope to plumb brakes tomorrow. I hope to get some more pics posted over the weekend.
Charles
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Charles,
Any updates?? Your thread had almost dropped off the first page :-o Hope all is well and the assembly is going smooth. :cheers:
Dan
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CK has been playing wind tunnel helper :cheers:
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And then headed out for his annual cruise. :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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:? :| That man just don't know how to live, does he????
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I think he said he'll be on the boat through the last part of this coming week. We've got days left to tease at him. . .
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I have returned,,,, my Boys wedding ceremony on the ship was great, good drinks, good food and good pics,, followed by 8 days ayt sea.. lots of fun but glad to be back.
Now I have to go to the shop and see how much work is done and LEFT to be done ??
I will report back with more pics as soon as I can.
Charles
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:cheers: Welcome home Charles! And congrats to your boy! Crow.
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I hav not got much work done since I returned from the cruise. The time off and crusie was fun, but I got a bad case of the Shingles and am in a bunch of pain. Larry did make some progress last week and he painted the body, hood and front end today. We picked out the Red paint today for the Scallops (decided to flatten/satin the red as we did not want it to shiney either).. The paint in the pics that follow is not dry or cured yet... it will not be shiney when dry and cured.
Here are some progress pics since last week.
Roof Rails test fitted
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1136.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1137.jpg)
Dash/Guage Panel and Switch Panel and Trans Tunnel re fitted
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1161.jpg)
Floor test fit after powder coat
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1164.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1167.jpg)
Larry doing final blocking and prepping for paint
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1172.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1173.jpg)
FRESH Satin Black Paint
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1174.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1175.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1176.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1177.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1178.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1180.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1181.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1183.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1186.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1187.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1189.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1188.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1184.jpg)
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O Charles . What have you done? That is going to be the most increasable thing on wheels.
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Charles, as always nice work, looking real pretty. Hope you can get rid of the shingles fast.
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Eric and Glen, thanks for the kind words... and yes Glen I hope these darn shingles go away soon,,, If they don't I will have trouble wearing my seat belts in 3 weeks,,
My left rib cage feels like I have been beat with a baseball bat !!
Well hope to get Motor set back in Chassis by Friday (waiting on new valve springs that we needed to go with new cam)
Charles
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Charles Darlin' she is looking so beautiful!! Can't wait to see her on the salt...they'll both bring out the best in each other!! She'll have the salt so enamored that it will be nothing but a gentle caress when she speeds down the course!!
Don't let those shingles "stress" you out :roll: obviously, you felt you needed an additional challenge to deal with before Maxton!! :-o Get well soon, your "Lady" will be wanting you to race with her!!
Lynda
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Charles, I gotta tell ya, there's one pic that really caught my eye in your last post, and that's the one with the hood on the stand next to the body. The hood looks stunning, and having the body in the background really brought to life the attention to detail and aesthetic integration that you've brought to this project. It's absolutely gorgeous.
If it's as fast as it is beautiful, you'll be in need of a new hat rack.
Chris
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Charles.
Thanks for showing the pictures. The body et al look tremendous! Very nice work, a beautiful car!
Warmest regards.
John.
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Chris, I took that picture for the very reason you speak of.. it does show how it all comes together.
John, glad to hear from you and hope you get back to your project soon.
Lynda, thanks again for your kind words and support.
Later today or in the morning the last few pieces should be ready at the powder coaters.
(the rear spolier, gurney flaps, roof rails and front inner fenders are all aluminum and have been powdercoated satin black)
Still waiting for my valve springs so Brian can reassemble the heads.
Hope to have engine done and ready to set back in soon. Once that is done we can lower the body back on, put the rear quarters, the front end and hood on, then tape it out and paint on the RED Scallops, then hand paint the white outlines and numbers.
Lots more to do and not enough time....
Oh well,,,
Charles
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WOW!
Been following this thread all along and if your success in building a truely stunning looking and well thought out race car becomes mirrored on the racetrack some records outa fall.
:cheers:
Bill
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That is absolutely beautiful Charles :cheers: I can't wait to see it all together!
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That is absolutely beautiful Charles :cheers: I can't wait to see it all together!
Randy, me too,,, I can't wait either. The plan is to drop the body on the chassis on Monday then put the front end and hood on so we can tape out the scallops and possibly lay down the red paint by Tuesday. Cross your fingers for me,, it's going to be close getting it all done for Maxton this month.
Charles
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Ck ... you better make the June meet .... I pushed to finish my bike so I debut beside you ... Joe
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Ck ... you better make the June meet .... I pushed to finish my bike so I debut beside you ... Joe
Joe, I will be ay Maxton for the June meet,,,I have to see your bike in action then too...we are working hard to make sure the Stude is there with me. You know how picky I am,,, I will not debut it until it is 100% done a race ready.... many have urged me to bring it evenif it is not ready to run so it can be tech'd and such before Loring. I may do that but our plan is to get it ready to make at least a few 125 to 150 mph shakedown runs. I would like to make a parachute run too (since I am familar with the track and shutdown) but I guess it's all going to depend on the next 16 days ....
Charles
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tic toc tic toc :-D
terry
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I was still not feeling well today, but Larry and his son Mike got some work done today...
Another milestone achieved today.... the freshly painted body now is lowered back on the chassis.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/studeonframe1.jpg)
Down and snug ready to bolt in place
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/studeonframe2.jpg)
Ready to roll off lift.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/studeonframe3.jpg)
What's next ?
MORE WORK,,, but we are still trying to get the Stude to Maxton for the June 26 event..
I hope I have all the parts I need for final assembly ?? what have I forgot ?
Charles
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Charles, This looks way too cool!!! :cheers:
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Charles, This looks way too cool!!! :cheers:
Thanks Mag, we try hard and time is running out on a June 26th debut at Maxton....
Charles
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I am starting to feel like we just may get finished in time for shakedowns at Maxton on the 26th and 27th.
At least a 50/50 shot at making it,,, the glass is half full now :cheers: :cheers:
More pics later today.
Charles
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Well here are a few more pics and updates
Me wiring/assembling Switch Panel and Gauge Panel
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1192.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1191.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1193.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1194.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1195.jpg)
Front Inner Fenders waiting to be bolted on
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1197.jpg)
Containment seat installed / interior
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1199.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1200.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1202.jpg)
Fuel Tank
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1203.jpg)
Switch panel installed and drivers view of dash
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1204.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1205.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1206.jpg)
looking in through back window
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1207.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1208.jpg)
Lot's more work,, wish I had 4 more hands !!!
Charles
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Looking good Charles, wish I lived closer, I'd come over and help!
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Looking good Charles, wish I lived closer, I'd come over and help!
I could and would use your help, if you lived closer... the next 15 days we will be working as much as possible to get it done. I am slammed at my day job, so I can't get free to help Larry as much as I need and want to.
Charles
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Lookin real nice Charles, the glass is darn near full! 15 days to get everything done, no problem! Had a boss that when we only had a few days till deadline would remind me that there's three shifts in a day, relax you've got plenty of time. :cheers:
Dan
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I dont care who you are that's a damn nice car :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
terry
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I dont care who you are that's a Dodge nice car :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
terry
Terry,
You think It will pass tech on the first try ???
Charles
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I hope you get thru tech with flying colors. No matter what that is one fine race car. Best of LUCK :lol: :lol: :cheers: :-) :-) :-)
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I think you wont have many IF any issues.The vicky had the least of any (new) car I had seen.
terry
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Great work, Charles. I'll bet you will not have any trouble in tech and I hope you will not have the time to look at all those gauges, like when you are going real fast and watching the track.
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I am with GH---my experience i need a water temp guage as large as the Tach and insstalled in the visor of my helment :-D
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Too much info for a bike guy. Last year I was looking at my tach, trying to figure out what my rpm was and ran off the track. :-o The factory tach lies almost as much as the spedo. :?
Fred
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Looking good Charles, wish I lived closer, I'd come over and help!
I could and would use your help, if you lived closer... the next 15 days we will be working as much as possible to get it done. I am slammed at my day job, so I can't get free to help Larry as much as I need and want to.
Charles
Charles,
If I could get next week off I would fly over to help you out, what better way for me to get some experience while I contemplate a project of my own. But my assistant is off for a few weeks with a medical issue, and they don't like us both gone at the same time. Besides, I've never been to North Carolina, I could do some sight seeing too.
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Looking good Charles, wish I lived closer, I'd come over and help!
I could and would use your help, if you lived closer... the next 15 days we will be working as much as possible to get it done. I am slammed at my day job, so I can't get free to help Larry as much as I need and want to.
Charles
Charles,
If I could get next week off I would fly over to help you out, what better way for me to get some experience while I contemplate a project of my own. But my assistant is off for a few weeks with a medical issue, and they don't like us both gone at the same time. Besides, I've never been to North Carolina, I could do some sight seeing too.
Giff,,, that would have been fun,,, lots to see here in NC we have awesome mountains and the Carolina beaches are great too,,,
I think we are on the home stretch now,,,, By late Saturday afternoon I will have a much better handle on the situation...
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I think you wont have many IF any issues.The vicky had the least of any (new) car I had seen.
terry
Thanks Terry,, yeah the Vicky went through tech nicely on her Debut,,, but that was the 150 and 175 MPH tech,,,, the Stude will have to meet much more safety requirments for 200 to 225... But you can bet I have that under control,,,, my guess is NO ISSUES.... but then again,,, I have paying attention to You, Keith and Joe in the tech lines as well as went through the ECTA and SCTA Rule Books,,, So Tech should be Fun.... heck I look forward to showing off the craftsmanship of this build...
Charles
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Too much info for a bike guy. Last year I was looking at my tach, trying to figure out what my rpm was and ran off the track. :-o The factory tach lies almost as much as the spedo. :?
Fred
Fred, I know what you mean... Last year I was in a crosswind and was steering the nose into the wind, just for a milli sec I glanced left at my water temp Guage and the car moved left 10 feet and I about hit the finish line cone,,,, I have made sure the guages I need to see (water temp and Oil Pressure) are direct in my line of sight so my head or eyes do not have to look away from the track to see them...
So GH and Sparky are correct too,,,, no time to really look at them.... I may install a low oil pressure warning light and a warning light for high water temp to,,, so I would not have the need to look at a guage needle.. that way if the light comes on just shut her down... there will always be next time,, better safe than sorry !!!
Charles
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I always figured gauges are for the pits and starting line. Shift light for driving. I only look at the tach between the 4 and 5 when I'm pushing the peddle through the floor willing it to pull another 500 rpm :-o
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Yup, this year I will have a shift light and gear indicator only, positioned where I will be looking directly over them. :-D
Fred
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Big, bright, serious warning lights are the only way to go. As long as they catch the corner of your eye that's all you need for driving. The gauges are for checking after you've slowed down to ensure everything's together for the next run. :wink: :wink:
Pete
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I am going to install Murphy Saftey Guages in the new car---they are saftery switches that will shut down the eng with too low oil pressure or to hot water
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I am going to install Murphy Saftey Guages in the new car---they are saftery switches that will shut down the eng with too low oil pressure or to hot water
That is a good idea,,, but I would want to make sure they are accurate and reliable,,, so they did not shut down premature and mess up a good run....
Charles
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they have little adjustable stops as well as an override
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As long as they have an override the true racer will use it for sure as long as the run feels good to him/her. :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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Especially on a return run!! :wink:
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Oh how true--after I shift the last time---I figure the RAT is on his own for the last 3 :-o
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Charles,
Stude's looking good m8.
For the "ease the mind at a glance" approach you can always rotate the gauges so the needles are vertical when all is good too.
I like the idiot lights, Murphys would worry me a little if they just killed the engine, you'd want to be quick with the clutch (on the salt) I assume?
I've installed them for stationary engines and earth moving machinery and can tell you they work from personal experience. We lost an oil line on a pump rig, the shed interior was covered in oil but the engine was fine.
Cheers,
Rob
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Charles, the Auto Meter Pro-Lite warning lights are what I used to use on the oval track cars because they worked and were really bright. They're also relatively easy to mount, even in something that's already built.
It might be worth a look.
Pete
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PJ, as you may have noticed I use Auto Meter stuff... I will check with my source and see about the warning lights.
I know some guages have the light built in,,, I would rather have separate and larger/brighter warning lights.
My dash panel is removable (even with the guages installed, just quick disconnect wiring) I can look into ways to mount lights....
Charles
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Aint this fun stuff??????
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Rob---good point I run Gear Vendor OD units set up to freewheel just for that reason. I have blown up twice once on the salt at 230+ and once on the dirt at about 170--
no lost tires :-D no circular braking :-)
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Engine was not delivered today as promised,,, held us a bit.. Engine should be here around 8:30 to 9:00 in the morning. If so, we can then work on getting the clutch set up and transmission mated back to engine, then drop them back in as a unit. Hope to have all that done so we can finish plumbing the brakes and fuel system.
Spent half my day chasing down parts, more time driving and hunting parts than actual time spent on the car.
Oh well hope tomorrow works out as planned.
Charles
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What engine are you starting with Charles?
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What engine are you starting with Charles?
Eric, I am going to use the "E" motor (255 cu. in. SBC) that I used in 2008... Did a Cam Change, Header Change, Trans Change and Some More Head Work and Porting.
Today was a good day, just Larry and I in the shop from 8:00am the 1:30 (before it got so hot) We got the entire brake system plumbed, the fuel tank mounted, fuel cut off and fuel filter mounted. Parachute Mounted and Release Cable routed and mounted. Started on some electrical..mounted battery box and vent tubes, mounted MSD Ignition Box.
OK , more updates later....
Charles
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way to go!!! sounds like the begining of a thrash :-D
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New back glass rubber and glass put back in today.. Have not decided on new laminated safety windshield or buying some 3/16 MR10 scratch resistant Lexan,,,, Both will cost about the same,, Since I have brand new windshield rubber and trim,, I am leaning towards that (as well as ease of installation, as well as matching the rear)
Brian delivered my motor today, Larry finished plumbing the fuel lines. I ordered my new Moon Disks, and hope they come in soon so can have time to clear powder coat them before Maxton,, if not I will borrow the Moon's from the Vicky and powder coat the new ones before install on the Studebaker.
Charles
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It has been very hot here, making progress, but still some much to get done if we are to make it to Maxton next week.
Motor and Transmission are installed, all electrical is done, all fuel system is plumbed..more info and pics to come later.
Charles
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Charles ... looking forward to Maxton ... but now my Silverado is acting up ... not sure what it is ... wont turn over ... I am thinking something stupid like neutral safety switch ...
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Joe, maybe you should check the battery :evil: :evil:
See you at Maxton,, I will be there and It is still ify on the Stude making it,,, no way we can get the Red Scallops taped out and painted and lettering done,,, but we may get it running and buttoned up by Friday,,..
Charles
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C'mon- I will be lettering the class designation and the one sponsor on the Escort on Thursday night at some hotel on the way down. Of course, I would imagine your do your lettering with something other that a rattlecan and paper stencils. :-D
See you there.
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Charles,
Your attention to appearance and detail is top shelf but the lights won't read the scallops. If you can get it together, run it to get some seat time in and shake out any bugs [fire ants?].
Hemi,
You have the fever and the right spirit antedote for sure, all the best for a great first meet.
Everyone,
Have a safe, fun, and fast meet. Regretfully missing another one, looking forward to getting back soon as I can.
Ed
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Ed,
You are correct about how picky I am and how I like everything to be perfect before the car runs. But with next weekend being my only chance to run the car "local" before hauling 22 hours to Loring in July and even a longer haul to B'Ville in Aug or Sept... I guess we will bring it for tech and a few shakedown passes "if able" to,,, we will not let the final graphics and paint to keep us away,,, as long as we are finished mechanically we will be there. (we may pull a 6am to 10pm day on Tues and Thur, and make final decision on Friday)
Charles
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A few more Pics as of yesterday.. We only worked 6 hours yesterday, the heat all week has just drained the energy from Me and Larry. (plus a few Gremlins showed up and derailed our progress) Stupid me put the front A arm shock plates on upside down and the front end was to high ( I noticed it was a bit high, but thought after the engine was in it would settle down.. I was wrong)that was a 90 minute delay and a very frustrating "re do" compounded by the 98 degree inside temps.. Oh well, that problem was resolved and work continues.
Right Rear Quarter
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1209.jpg)
Left Rear Quarter
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1210.jpg)
Larry fishing wires through dash grommet
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1224.jpg)
MSD and Switch wiring in switch pod
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1211.jpg)
1 inch hex lugs installed.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1212.jpg)
Fire Bottle Pull Cables
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1214.jpg)
Steering back in
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1217.jpg)
Engine back in
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1221.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1222.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1223.jpg)
I hope Larry and get Radiator and cooling system plumbed and ready tomorrow so we can test the engine late tomorrow or early Tuesday,,, Hopefully some more and major progress updates by mid week.
Charles
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Charles, Very nice work, thanks for sharing the build! Tony :cheers:
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Looking great Charles. Three things:
1. Take a spare steel rod end in case someone doesn't like the aluminum one supporting the steering column.
2. I hope you're not covering the switch pod. The more cool air the MSD box gets, the better.
3. Make sure you're inspectors aren't looking for thread showing beyond the nuts. I know you've got enough thread, having changed a lot of stock car wheels, but some inspectors may not.
Pete
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Ed,
You are correct about how picky I am and how I like everything to be perfect before the car runs. But with next weekend being my only chance to run the car "local" before hauling 22 hours to Loring in July and even a longer haul to B'Ville in Aug or Sept... I guess we will bring it for tech and a few shakedown passes "if able" to,,, we will not let the final graphics and paint to keep us away,,, as long as we are finished mechanically we will be there. (we may pull a 6am to 10pm day on Tues and Thur, and make final decision on Friday)
Charles
I'm being really selfish when I say this, because I'd like a chance to see this thing up close.
I won't be at SW, but I will be at WOS . . .
. . . so take your time, Charles! :-D
This Stude is world class!
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Looking great Charles. Three things:
1. Take a spare steel rod end in case someone doesn't like the aluminum one supporting the steering column.
2. I hope you're not covering the switch pod. The more cool air the MSD box gets, the better.
3. Make sure you're inspectors aren't looking for thread showing beyond the nuts. I know you've got enough thread, having changed a lot of stock car wheels, but some inspectors may not.
Pete
PJ,
The lugs are not torqued down yet, just hand tight (and there is one thread showing, when tight maybe 2 threads will show and 1 thread showing is enough to pass tech anywhere) with even 1/2 a thread showing it proves the lugs are fully enagaged in the studs... I know what you are saying and have heard of arguments on the Salt on this exact situation.
Charles
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Don't you just hate these picky, amateur inspectors! :evil: :evil: :evil:
Pete
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Don't you just hate these picky, amateur inspectors! :evil: :evil: :evil:
Pete
I don't mind picky....they are there to help keep us safe... As long as they are open to an honest and fair evaluation of any item they feel is questionable (two way com unication is the key,, not arguments)
Charles
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I was referring to me. :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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Looking GREAT !! CK good luck
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Charles,
Car is looking fantastic, very nice work. When you have time can you let me know how the rear window install went? I'll be spraying ours next weekend and have some concerns on fitting the trim in the rubber. Do I install the glass and rubber first than trim, or does the trim need to be in as it's all being set?
Good luck at Maxton and I'll see you at Bonneville.
:cheers:
Dan
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Looking good CK, you guys are really having fun now!
Cheers,
Rob
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Charles, in Bakersfield we put a lawn sprinkler on top of the shop on hot days and the evaporation cooled things down. I am not sure that would work there but it might be worth a try.
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Charles, in Bakersfield we put a lawn sprinkler on top of the shop on hot days and the evaporation cooled things down. I am not sure that would work there but it might be worth a try.
Larry's shop is an older Metal building about 12,000 sq. ft with approx 14 foot tall ceiling.
I am not sure what would work,, my shop has AC but to much work to move to my place for final assembly (which was the plan, but we ran out of time)
Charles
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Charles Darlin' you are so close now!! Don't get discouraged this close to the finish of your build!! We're all going to miss your build diary, but the finished "Lady" will be worth it! Can't wait to see her on the salt!! :cheers:
Lynda
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Charles ... went out this morning and the truck fired right up ... I am still thinking Neutral safety but tough to diagnose intermitant electrical problem ... will load up Wednesday night and hope it starts Thursday morning ...
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Joe,
call my cell if you need a rescue (PM sent)
See you either Friday or Saturday... Still thrashing on the Stude to try to get it to Maxton with me...
Charles
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Several small details have started to add up and hours behind schedule have turned into days. We have not been able to work as many hours each day due to the 95 to 100 degree temps inside the shop. Larry and I are just weak and dragging our tails by 4 or 5pm each day.
Getting the car done in time to load up tomorrow afternoon is looking like a stretch and by rushing it, I am afraid we may overlook something. We are going to start at 6:00am while it is cool and see how much we get done.
TODAY was a good day in one respect,,, we got the engine all buttoned up and started and ran it through two heat cycles to check all the plumbing.,. I had planned on test driving it around the compound, but the driveshaft was not ready until 4:30 today. Oh well hope to test drive and check alignment, brakes and clutch tomorrow.
IF ALL goes 100% perfect and on schedule with no little gremlins or setback we may get done.. Either way I will be at Maxton Saturday morning with or with out a car to race.
Oh,, later I will post 2 videos of the engine running.
Charles
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now Charles, lots of racers have been known to finish the car at the track :evil:
-
And my experience has been that those same racers are the first to DNF. :evil: :-D :-D :-D
Pete
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PJ,, I would tend to agree with you,,, Yes I would love to load the Stude up tomorrow and take it to Maxton... But my stuff don't go in the trailer until it is ready and safe....
The next post will have 2 quick videos of the engine running about 3pm today.
Charles
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I agree but if its minor stuff,you know a dozen or so will help.
terry
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These are from about 3pm today. I took the videos with my point and shoot Canon.. It takes great pictures but for some reason the sound is not as good as normal... I may have had it set wrong,, Even with poor sound quality you can tell the little E motor is ready to go..
double click on the pics below and turn up your volume,,, you can also make it full screen once it starts playing..
THIS IS FIRST RUN OUTSIDE THE SHOP DOOR, Has one small water and oil leak,, Fixed that and then made the second heat cycle run before rolling her back to cool in the shop.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/th_MVI_1225.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=MVI_1225.mp4)
Second Run,,,both little leaks fixed, all the guages work well and all the vitals are spot on
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/th_MVI_1226.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=MVI_1226.mp4)
Lots more to do tomorrow,,,
Charles
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Charles,
Car is looking fantastic, very nice work. When you have time can you let me know how the rear window install went? I'll be spraying ours next weekend and have some concerns on fitting the trim in the rubber. Do I install the glass and rubber first than trim, or does the trim need to be in as it's all being set?
Good luck at Maxton and I'll see you at Bonneville.
:cheers:
Dan
Dan, for the front windshield and the back glass,,, put the glass in the new rubber (from Studebaker parts on line in AZ) then put the trim on and then put it on the car as a complete done unit.
On the video, I think you can see the new rubber and cleaned up original 1953 trim.
Charles
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Looks and sounds GREAT. Oh soo close... Good Luck CK
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Sounds great Charles, that lil motor is beggin to run! Thanks for the heads up on the glass install, we'll see how it goes next week. Good luck tonight and Friday on the car, from the beginning your build has been thought out and top notch. Finish at a pace you feel comfortable with, you'll get there when your supposed to.
:cheers:
Dan
I WILL see you at Bonneville
-
That dawg should hunt :-D
terry
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Why are you typing and not in the Taj Magarage CK??
Git 'er done son!
Cheers,
Rob
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Why are you typing and not in the Taj Magarage CK??
Git 'er done son!
Cheers,
Rob
[/quote
Rob if we would have not been so far behond we would have moved the car and all the parts back to my
Air Conditioned "Garage Ma Hall" the heat has been so bad after about 10 hours a day in the hot shop we are drained.
Trying to get done by this afternoon to load up for Maxton,,, It is not looking good ...to many small details like bleeding brakes, bleeding the clutch, installing door hardware, aligning front end, adjusting ride height, installing front end, rechecking all frame and suspension nuts and bolts, rechecking all seat and seat belt mounting, making bottom 4 link bar retaining cable or chain, making some sort of rear end retaining cable/chain (so when we lift car it limits rear from dropping to far.
We still have a lot to do, I am typing this as a take a small break to go run to other shop to get some parts (I am glad Larry and my shops are less than 5 miles apart)
See ya
Charles
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charles why not bring it even if its not done you can run it thru tech an make sure everything passes and if something else needs to be added or corrected you will know for next time...
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Vary cool Charles, that engine sound great. I agree with you about not taking it to the track until you're satisfied that it's done. This weekend, just load the Vicky for a trip to the track.
-
Got a lot done, but not enough to load up for Maxton.
Thanks for all the words of encouragement and support,,, I so wanted to debut the new Stude at Maxton, bit it looks like It will be at Loring.
I hope to get a decent nights sleep and be at Maxton by 10 in the morning.
Charles
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CK we hurt with you guy :cheers:
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Good effort Charles and just so you know, you are making the right move. Enjoy the weekend, and just think, NO STRESS!!! 8-) 8-) 8-)
Pete
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Charles,
Sometimes when you have to back up a bit you wind up with a much better run on the hill......... Keep the faith.
Take care and enjoy the weekend.
Ed
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I took a needed day off from both my real job and the Stude build today. I Left the house around 8:15am and arrived at Maxton about 10:30am. I was expecting it to be much hotter than it was,,, off and on cloud cover and a slight breeze kept temps around 83 degrees until about 2:30 or so..
Being a spectator was OK, I had time to drive my cart around and visit will all my LSR and LR.com friends..It was fun BUT...
I sure wish the Stude would have been done as the lines moved very fast and well organized.
I hope you all have good weather again tomorrow,,, maybe a few more records will fall in the cooler morning air.
Have Fun, Go Fast, Be Safe
Charles
Charles
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Good news today,,, The Red Scallops are painted on the front end, air dam and hood,, all are drying in the booth now,,, the only paint work left is finishing the scallops on the doors and then hand painting the white outlines around all the scallops,,,, PICS to come soon,,,
Fire bottles mounted,,, hope to run the lines and nozzels tomorrow afternoon/evening.
I May be able to test drive tomorrow afternoon..... I HOPE....
At long last we are nearing project completion...
Charles
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:-D :cheers: Way to go Charles! Looking forward to seeing your pics, and maybe hearing the Stude run on a short video??? Congrats! Crow.
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I May be able to test drive tomorrow afternoon..... I HOPE....
Charles
Any test drive under 100mph would be a waste of time! :mrgreen:
Mike
OBTW: Looking forward to seeing the finished car.
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I May be able to test drive tomorrow afternoon..... I HOPE....
Charles
Any test drive under 100mph would be a waste of time! :mrgreen:
Mike
OBTW: Looking forward to seeing the finished car.
I agree,,,, I have access ( at times) to a 5000 foor runway,,, that gives me 1/2 run and 1/2 mile to stop,,, would think 125 mph is safe in that area,,, for a few shakedowns...
Charles
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CK ... proceed with caution as I am sure you will do ... remember the chute which is new procedure for you ... Joe
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CK ... proceed with caution as I am sure you will do ... remember the chute which is new procedure for you ... Joe
Joe,,
Thanks for the heads up... Chutes are not new to me,,, just have never used one in LSR.. last I used chutes was drag racing in the 80's and early 90's.... I am sure pulling a chute in an LSR car is alot differant.... you can bet I will practice my procedures and build up in 20 to 25 mph increments with it.
See you in 3 weeks or so..
Charles
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A few more progress pictures.
Scallops taped up and ready to spray.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Studedetails2.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Studedetails1.jpg)
Finished and drying --- I do not have a good enough eye or steady enough hand to do the white outlining of the Scallops,, a pinstripper is coming Tuesday to do that for me...
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1233.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1231.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1229.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1227.jpg)
Fire Bottles
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1234.jpg)
Yes, I can do detail work too !!! LOL
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Studedetails5.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Studedetails4.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/Studedetails3.jpg)
Well Me and Larry are taking tomorrow off and going to the Heavy Metal Rebel and Rat Rod Show tomorrow, I was going to drive the Vicky, but with that containment seat, I can not see beside or behind me very well,,, so I am taking the 38 Dodge Old Skool Shop Truck..
Everyone have a SAFE and HAPPY 4th of July Holiday !!!
Charles
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The Satin lady looks good with a little make up. Good job. :cheers:
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Fabulous Charles!
Never thought they would catch you working :evil: Must have gotten some tape on the bottom of your shoes to slow you down!
Can't wait to hear how she drives. And then how fast you go!
Geo
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Charles, car looks great. Now you have to worry about scratching it. :-D
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Nice job Charles. Good luck with the testing! :-D :-D :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Pete
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Looking good Charles.
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The Satin lady looks good with a little make up. Good job. :cheers:
Charles Darlin' I don't think it's going to matter what you name her, she's always going to be the Satin Lady to Glen and me! :-D She is looking so beautiful, I can imagine how proud you are feeling, especially with knowledge that you didn't take one single shortcut while building her!
Have a great 4th, enjoy your "day off" and I'll see you and your Lady next month!! Good luck in Loring!
Lynda
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Charles - Lookin' good! I passed on Heavy Rebel (my one experience there wasn't the best) but if I'd a known you were goin".... Hope to visit in the next couple of weeks (and you should come by next workday in Salisbury and see our car). vic
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Too shiney ...
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:cheers: Go gast,,,,,but safely! She is lookin' goooooooood! Crow.
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??? what up?
terry
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??? what up?
terry
Terry,
We are just a few days from completing the Stude. If all goes well I should have pictures of the completed car by the end of this weekend. I hope to test drive the car around the industrial park this weekend, then hope to get permission to use the 5000 ft runway that is about 15 miles from here.
Working on side windows, naca ducts, door latches and final ride height and then weighing and balancing the car.
Next we have to rig up the 44 ft gooseneck trailer to hold the car, scooter and all tools and equipment,,, my current enclosed 20 ft V Nose is not long enough.
Charles
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Cool I know you have busted your butt.From what I have seen after the run in Maine you should take to the salt,then put it on the show curcit.
terry
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a few updates....
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1292.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1276.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1277.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1278.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1282.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1281.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1280.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1279.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1289.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1283.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1284.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1288.jpg)
Charles
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FIRST PROBLEM trying to test drive.
Clutch will not work
Anyone know about hydraulic throwout bearing ??
The clutch pedal feels very very stiff. So before I started it,,, I put the car in gear and pushed in the clutch and the crew tried to push the car and it would not move,, the clutch is not working.
I have a quartermaster 7.5" twin disk clutch deal,,, I have a wilwood firewall mount clutch pedal/master cyl and a quarter master hydraulic slave/release bearing.
Anyone have any ideas ??
Charles
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Did ya check the clutch fluid? :evil:
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Yes we put fluid in the master cylinder and bled the system.
Must be another problem ????
Charles
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I had a similar problem with my hydraulic release bearing. 10,000 RPM clutch, Howe bearing. It didnt have enough throw. Solved it with a Coleman bearing. Did you intall per
http://www.racingclutches.com/~rclutch/prod_imgs/pdf/900117%20Universal%20Bearing.pdf
Check free play and stroke, note the chart re master cyl dia. and bearing movement. In any case since you have clutch and bearing from same source my first call would be to Quartermaster.
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Charles - Was the clearance on the slave cylinder to clutch fingers set prior to installation of the bellhousing? Usually recommended at about 0.100". If so, was the slave fully retracted when the clearance was set? Slave bled? Do you have a clutch stop on the pedal? Often, if the slave cylinder was overtravelled on the first depression of the pedal, the piston will cock in the bore and not retract. Call me tomorrow am with questions; maybe I can get by to help. vic
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Thanks Vic,
Yes, we set at .110 and yes we set it before we put in the car... I have no idea about M/C piston or any over travel. All we did was read and follow the instructions (but to be honest very poorly written and illustrated instructions)
I am clueless on what I am doing here... never used a hydraulic clutch release bearing before...
Charles
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Charles,
I got nothin on the clutch situation, sure you'll get it. Your car turned out top shelf, fit and finish and attention to everything will pay off at the end of the course. Can't wait to see it at Bonneville. :cheers:
Dan
Did you mention something about a modified roadster build?? :-D
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Dan,
That is a 2012 potential project.
I have to recover from this build first and I have to figure out this darn clutch issue...
This is very rare for me/us,,, normally everything works with just minor tweaks needed.. this clutch not working is more than MINOR to me,,, it is MAJOR more so because I have no idea what is wrong or how to fix it..
Charles
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The diameter of the piston in the master cylinder is usually marked somewhere on the outside. If you do not have a large enough piston or a long enough stroke you won't get the .250 travel required to release your clutch (.110 clearance +.140 to release per QM chart). Check how much the master cyl piston is actualy moved by the pedal linkage.
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Did you bleed the master cylinder?
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Did you bleed the master cylinder?
Peter, yes we did,,, we do not have a pedal stop, so we may have over traveled the release bearing piston as a few posters on here have mentioned. If we have, I would guess we have to take it out and press it back in place and start over ....
Charles
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Try to isolate the problem area before yanking stuff apart... Verify master passes fluid when pedal depressed, then verify that flow before entering the slave. Then crack the bleeder on the slave and verify again. Then you know it's the slave and you can tear it apart. I'm as close as the phone. vic
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Try to isolate the problem area before yanking stuff apart... Verify master passes fluid when pedal depressed, then verify that flow before entering the slave. Then crack the bleeder on the slave and verify again. Then you know it's the slave and you can tear it apart. I'm as close as the phone. vic
Thanks Vic,
Larry may have to call you Monday... is it OK if I give him your cell number,,, I am tied up Mon - Fri next week not back in shop till next saturday.. So maybe it's a good thing I am gone and Larry can resolve this problem....
I am so mad and frustrated,,, I am about to be throwing wrenches around the shop,,,
Charles
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Charles,
Car is beautiful! Better than the computer image. Very nice job!
The clutch... I only found one listing for the master cylinder at 3/4 bore. Going by the chart this will give .36 inch travel at one inch of m/c travel. Your pedal (I guess) has 7:1 ratio.
You need .110 free play and .140 to release the clutch (again a guess). This requires about 5 inches of travel at the pedal. More than that and you can push the bearing out too far eventually cocking it and causing a jam. Less than this and the clutch will not release. A pedal stop is needed.
The info at: http://www.racingclutches.com/~rclutch/prod_imgs/pdf/900117%20Universal%20Bearing.pdf is very good.
Geo
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Geo,,,
I think we have to much pedal travel and cocked the piston out and jammed it,,, that makes the most sense.
Larry may be able to get this resolved Monday,,, if not,,,
Vic aka "Krusty" knows this stuff and he is just 35 minutes away,,, I think he can help Larry resolve this for me since I will not be in the shop next week.
Like PJ told me a few minutes ago,,, get a good nights sleep and I will have a better perspective in the morning.. I am just wound to tight right now,,, I guess I am just use to having things go right the first time (most of the time) LOL
Charles
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Charles,
Car is beautiful! Better than the computer image. Very nice job!
Geo
Geo,
Thanks for the kind words and compliments... I am very pleased with the fit and finish, both inside and outside.
I was very concerned that the actual car would not look like the art work.. I am very happy that it came out well.
The pictures I have posted do not do the car justice,, it sure does look better and meaner in person,,, thn when you hear her run !!!! whew gets me excited just thinking about it,,,
Charles
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Charles, the car looks great :cheers: I may have to have you design the paint scheme on my next build!
Keep up the good work.
Randy
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Keep at it you will get it sorted out.Man that car is a work of art.
terry
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Charles Darlin' what a beautiful Lady you have created!!! Don't let this glitch get to you so much!!! No wonder you got shingles!!! Step back, take a deep breath, close your eyes and picture your "Lady" on the salt....another deep breath..okay!
Don't know about you, but that made me ready for the salt!! :roll: :-D
Enjoy the beautiful art you have created!
Lynda
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Thanks Lynda, Terry, Randy, PJ, Geo, Vic etc...
I had a good nights sleep and I will let Larry and whomever he can consult with fix the clutch,,,
Best thing for me is to chill out... I am sure it is something minor,,, but ya know,,, I am high strung and hyper LOL
I am working in my shop today and getting stuff together to rig the trailer up to carry the Stude and Bradley's bike to Maine.
Charles
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Ironies of racing! bled the clutch on the RMR today and noticed a drip drip drip from the bellhousing. Ain't nuttin' in there with liquid but the slave cylinder! :x Oh, well, engine/trans out one more time; Monday I'll rebuild the slave (i.e., replace the seal). Perhaps you should ignore my advise. :-D vic
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Do you have a stop on the pedal Vic? :evil: :evil: :evil:
Pete
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Charles it happened to me once and the hydraulic T/O bearing went to far on the snout. We put a adjustable pedal stop on it to limit the throw. It's the stuff like this that drive you nuts. Hang in there my friend and it will all work out.
:cheers:
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If the T/o bearing is stuck overtraveled, wouldn't the clutch stay in the disengaged position? Car looks awesome!
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If the T/o bearing is stuck overtraveled, wouldn't the clutch stay in the disengaged position? Car looks awesome!
JD , that is what I would have thought... my clutch is engaged and the pedal is hard and feels like the cluth is not moving at all ???
CV
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too pretty to be a race car ... but I love it ... based on the Vicky it will run as good as it looks ... You done good Charles.
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too pretty to be a race car ... but I love it ... based on the Vicky it will run as good as it looks ... You done good Charles.
Thanks Joe,
I hope it runs just 1% better than it looks....
It is hard to imagine how it feels sitting inside and looking out the windshield. Every expectation I had for the build has been met or exceeded. The driver "cockpit" came out great,,, every thing I need to see or reach is well laid out and in my sight plane... All we have to do now is work out that new clutch problem and install the drivers and passenger door windows and we are ready for test drive and then load for Loring.
I just acquired a Pace Daytona 44ft Gooseneck enclosed trailer,,,I will be rigging it out the next week or so.
See you in Loring.
Charles
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Good news,,, after I cooled down and got a few good nights sleep Larry and I looked over the clutch sitution again.
It was a very minor problem and it is fixed now. We had the clutch pedal travel wrong and we still had air in the line,, a few adjustments and re bleeding the system and all works fine.
Just a few more days and we are done....
I am so glad the clutch deal is resolved... having never used a hydraulic release bearing, I guess I just freaked when it did not work just right the first try.
More pics this weekend when we are done...
Charles
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Do you have a stop on that pedal Charles? If you don't it's still worth doing as that's one of those things that can still bite you when you least need it.
That's good news that the problem's solved.
Pete
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Do you have a stop on that pedal Charles? If you don't it's still worth doing as that's one of those things that can still bite you when you least need it.
That's good news that the problem's solved.
Pete
PJ,
The directions for the release bearing we are using (Quarter Master Race Floating) says the travel is max .445
With full pedal travel now it is moving .440 (it was only moving .200 before,,,that was the problem)
Do I still need a pedal stop since I am getting no over travel on M/C piston at full pedal ?
Thanks
Charles
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Why take a chance. I would do it. :-o
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It's one of those things that will probably not bite you until the most critical possible moment, such as when you're making a return run for a record. A little air in the system or a little sticking later on in the week from salt corrosion and the problem will rear its ugly head, but only iff you're going for a record. :evil: :evil: :-D :-D
Pete
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Yes you need a stop. One time you will mix things up or get excited and stomp on the clutch thinking it's the brake. Both feet as you push harder with out slowing down. Then harder still... on the clutch pedal instead of the brake pedal. Bending things and braking things in the car as you coast to a stop 1 mile into the corn field.
Back at the shop you have a few days work. I would make a pedal stop now and place it so the pedal pad hits it. Don't go up the pedal near the pivot point. Remember the lesson on levers in 5th grade!
Report on the first run please. We are all glued to this thread as you near the end of the build!
Geo
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Thanks, PJ, Glen and Geo...
I will fab up a pedal stop from the fire wall to the back side of the pedal pad. I will have a double locking nut set up so I can adjust as needed,,, maybe 1" max adjustment.
It is so close now !!!!!!!
Charles
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Pedal Stop installed, clutch working just fine. Seat belts adjusted (mmm left shoulder belt hurt my shingle area.. still in pain)
Windshield retainer tabs done, being powdercoated in morning then final install.
We need to finish drivers and passenger door windows (and NACA ducts) then final check for test runs
All paint, graphics and lettering done (except for car number on drivers door)
here are todays pics
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1298.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1297.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1296.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1295.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/IMG_1293.jpg)
I am so ready for the test runs
Charles
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That ride is going to be like the first date with a hot chick. Enjoy and be safe. :-)
:cheers:
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That looks great Charles :cheers: I can't wait to see it run!
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That ride is going to be like the first date with a hot chick. Enjoy and be safe. :-)
Don't forget to wear protection!!!! :roll:
Lynda
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Lookin really sharp Charles. Nice number too, that's the area-code for the portion of California I live in, Ventura County.
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I May be able to test drive tomorrow afternoon..... I HOPE....
Charles
Any test drive under 100mph would be a waste of time! :mrgreen:
Mike
OBTW: Looking forward to seeing the finished car.
I agree,,,, I have access ( at times) to a 5000 foor runway,,, that gives me 1/2 run and 1/2 mile to stop,,, would think 125 mph is safe in that area,,, for a few shakedowns...
Charles
Of course, 125 mph shakedowns are useless without video to "analyze". :cheers:
Mike
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[/quote]
Of course, 125 mph shakedowns are useless without video to "analyze". :cheers:
Mike
[/quote]
Mike , you just like videos !!!! :evil:
Charlea
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No Darlin' it has to do with you making a "first run" in your new Lady and we won't be there to see it!!!!! She may be your Lady, but she's been in our houses and shops too, so we have those first step jitters that every new parent gets!! C'mon, be my "Charles Darlin'" and share with us!! Pleeeeeeeaze!!! :-D
Lynda
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No Darlin' it has to do with you making a "first run" in your new Lady and we won't be there to see it!!!!! She may be your Lady, but she's been in our houses and shops too, so we have those first step jitters that every new parent gets!! C'mon, be my "Charles Darlin'" and share with us!! Pleeeeeeeaze!!! :-D
Lynda
Yes you know I will post what I have..test is no go for tomorrow,,,rescheduled for Wednesday afternoon,,,,depending on weather!!!
Charles
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It looks like the original airport runway is no longer an option for a test session. Working on two more possible local air strips with good runways.
I can get a steering, brake and suspension test at lower speeds, but I need to check out a high gear pull too.
I need to make sure all is well before loading up for Loring. So I am also trying to book a chassis dyno for Friday night or Saturday.
More updates soon,
Thanks for all the interest and moral support during this build.
Charles
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Well Good news today and a small accident too !!!
I test drove the Stude today around the industrial park, Clint Bowyer's Team was very helpful and weighed my car at his dirt team's shop. Very nice group of guys. When leaving the shop I got on the gas a bit and did not see a friggin pot hole and ran the left tires in the big dip and the bell housing scraped the pavement (no damage) but then I cut short into driveway and dropped the right side tires off the pavement and the front airdam hit and it now has a small 3/4" hairline crack under the bottom edge and a 1/4" chip in the paint. Larry can fix that in less than 30 minutes,,,, There I go,,, done tore it up and was only a few hundred feet from the shop. Also when pushing the car, I slipped and grabbed the passenger door handle and tore it off the car !!! what a dunce I am,,,, Larry can fix that too... Man I had to leave before I tore anything else up today,,long hours in the heat and no sleep,,, I was a klutzzzzz today...
The new clutch was hard to get use to.. I got it now,,, Rev it and dump it LOL... Car ran good, steered straight and stopped straight,,, we need to bleed the brakes more and add some more front or take out some rear on the balance bar.
Visibility is great looking straight out over the left side of the hood. looking right is not to good. I am sitting so far back I can not see the nose of the car (it slants down fast and I low and in the back seat area).
Good thing we run on straights LOL.
Car was much lighter than we anticipated,, this is good for Maxton and Loring... but could prove not so good for Bonneville.
Total "wet weight, race ready" of the Car without me is 2910 Lbs. 52% Rear 48% Front (this is good)
Left and right perfect balance 49.9 % Left 50.1% Right.
Now with me in the car some things change (Imagine that)
Total weight is now 3284
Rear is still 52% and Front is 48% (still as we wanted)
Left is now up to 53% and Right is 47% I do not know what to think of that as far as handling goes.
OK back to some Math and suspension changes.
Charles
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Charles,
Even with you in the car, those are darn good numbers. If however you want a 50/50 side to side ratio, just add some balast to the other side, lined up with your seat so the front to rear doesn't change. This would be easiest done on the scales, you just sit there while the weights are set in the passenger side.
Gifford
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Charles,
Looks like all of the ballast needs to be added on the right side of the car!!
You had better get that car to a race track before you do something serious to it!
See you at the salt!
Rex
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Giff and Rex,
Yes while we had the car on the scales we had to add weight to the right side (and yes in the passenger seat area)
I figured since the car was 3284 with me in it and it was 3% light on the right I would add 3% weight to that side, so we put in 100 lbs and yes the car then weighed 3384, but the weight bias only changed 1%.. Total weight was now 3384 and left was 52% and right 48%,,, so that means we need to add 300 lbs low and right to get the car to 3584 with a 50/50 left to right and it still maintains the 52% Rear and 48% front.
I am not sure how Important pefect side to side weight balance is in a door car like mine ??????
I was more concerned that we had at least 1 to 2 % more weight on back than front and that we do !!!
I will not be adding weight for Loring or Maxton,,,,, and since I am only running a Little 255 CID "E" motor built with junkyard parts :evil: :evil: :evil: I don't think I will have as much traction problems as Gary Hart or Hooley's Studebakers or Bob D's all of which Inspired me to build my own Stude,,, Hey GUYS,,,, I DID IT...
Charles
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Hey GUYS,,,, I DID IT...
Yes, Charles you did. And we are darned proud!
Geo
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Junk yard parts my@$$
terry
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Junk yard parts my@$$
terry
:cheers: :evil: :-D :-o :-( :evil: :| :cheers:
Terry, I knew you would be the first to respond on that one... LOL... I owe you a beer,,, see you in Loring.
Charles
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Charles, you have done a great job. A few battle scars make it a race car. I wouldn't worry about less than a 100# difference on the front. You need a thousand more pounds for the salt, maybe a little more if it is wet (curse the thought). Hope to see you at Speedweek................... Bob
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You've scratched it CK, now you can stop worrying about it mate.
Could you use a small convex mirror on the passenger side front pillar for those few times when you need to see forward on that side or perhaps a small, stick on "fish eye" like they use on a van back glass (you like that? :wink: ) to see what's behind them when reversing.
Well done.
Cheers.
Rob
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Charles, be aware that on the salt when you are on the long course turn outs it will be hard to see who is coming down the return road. That's because of your blocked vision out to the right across the hood area. I have to be real careful in that area. Good luck on your beautiful work and have a lot of fun.
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Charles, be aware that on the salt when you are on the long course turn outs it will be hard to see who is coming down the return road. That's because of your blocked vision out to the right across the hood area. I have to be real careful in that area. Good luck on your beautiful work and have a lot of fun.
When I make my 180 turn back to the return road, I look for a cone to stop by just inside of the road.
Charles, that car is bitch'n. :cheers:
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Brian --
That's a good practice. But some of us are no longer under power and maybe turn off too soon, not wanting to hold up things by waiting for the next turn-off and going too slow to make it to the road.
We've even overshot the road and not made the 90º left, but went out into the crunchies a little. It would be a great concern not being able to see to the right under those circumstances. I guess I'd opt to just take it to a slower turnoff and take my chances.
Stan
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Charles, sorry to hear about you mishap. I was bummed to hear that you messed up the front end a little and just about fell over laughing when you said you stumbled and broke off the door handle. :-D Well now you won't have too worry about dinging it up at the races and if you do it won't be your first time. Hope to see you on the salt. :cheers:
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No video, right??
Good planning! :cheers:
LOL
Mike
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I am glad you all have as good a sense of humor as I do.....
The door handle is back on (and snug for sure)... The air dam is repaired and reinforced,, and repainted...
The visibility issue is noted and proper mirrors are on the way to solve the issue...
I would assume that before I make the turn off, I would be slow enough to loosen or remove my belts,,, if I do I can lean well enough to see over the right side of the hood. (that is only area I cant see well when fully buckled in)?
Is the turn out a Left or Right Turn ?
Thanks
Charles
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Short course usually turns out to the right, and the special (another short) course turns out to the left. The long course turns out to the left.
Remember that you'll be running on one of the short courses as you and your car get licensed. Only when you run 175 in the quarter (from mile marker 2 to MM 2 1/4) do you graduate to eligibility to run the long course.
Got all that?
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Jon, yes I have all that... I remember back in April,, you sitting patiently in my shop and going over all the procedures and such with me.... I feel I will have a lot to learn, but spending quality time with you that day has certainly accelerated my learning curve. I am glad the long course turns out left,,, that is better for me.
Sorry to hear you can't make Loring,,,
See you next month.
Charles
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Some very bad accidents have happened at BV turning (and returning) to the return road. Not a good idea at all to loosen or drop your belts until you're ready to get out of the car. Everyone's Favorite Roadster got creamed on the return road.
Stan
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Charles and others. You don't have to make a 90 deg. turn going to the return road. A lot of racers just go off at an angle to the return road so everything is directly in front of you. If the salt is rough you don't want to get into the pressure ridges. Also in most case if you are 75% of the way to the return road you will be safe to wait for a SCTA recovery vehicle to assist you. We generely won't hold the next run unless it's a streamliner. Remember the return road is about 1000 feet from the track so you can see whats ahead toward the return road.
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Thanks Glen.....
Stude being loaded early in the morning for the 20 minute ride to the chassis dyno.
Then ready to load tomorrow night in big hauler for the ride to Maine.
packing tools and driving gear tonight.
Charles
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Charles,
Do you have an in-car video camera? It would be cool to see year first run down the track? Also, video of the dyno session tomorrow.
-
Gifford,
Yes I have a Go Pro Hero wide angle in car camera,,, as a matter of fact,, I just picked up the go pro roll bar mounting kit,,,all I had was the window mount suction cup that came with it. I will have several in car camera videos (I hope)
As to video of the dyno session,,, hmm,, .. my motor man is hyper sensitive about that...
I will have the camera there and may make a few short videos...
Charles
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Charles, Dont Pinto off the dyno guy ...
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55 you have a PM....
thanks
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May I add a second to Stan's comment.
The race is NOT over until you are stopped!!!!
I suggest not undoing the belts until you are sure that there is nothing approaching from all four directions. I was on turnout in the Alfa once and a Japanese film crew was on a direct collision course for where I wanted to go. I finally used the one finger, International sign for 'get the F outta my way'. Might have caused an International crisis. 8-)
DW
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NHRA fines drivers that un buckle before turn out and clearing the course.
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So all those Top Fuel and Funny Car drivers that stand up in the seat while in shut down are fined?
DW
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Dan, the way I see it, it was your fault for driving a foreign car with Italian brakes.............. :-D
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Chassis Dyno was great. Little "E" motor revved to the moon,,, we just did a few easy pulls through each gear.
go full screen and turn up the volume.
You can click the blue link OR double click the picture below.
http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=MVI_1364.mp4
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/th_MVI_1364.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=MVI_1364.mp4)
Charles
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Charles, That little "E" sounds great!!! I cant wait to see you run the car on the salt. Are you bringing it out this year? Tony
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:-o :-o :-o :-o :-o :-o : ( I think I actualy expieranced an erection!) I could see you going down the Salt! Amazing Charles!!!
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Amazing Darlin' simply amazing!!! See, I told you she'd be a Lady!!!!! Good luck in Loring, can't wait to get my picture taken with her on the salt!!!!
Lynda
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Charles
Good luck this week end. I wish I did not have to wait till September to see it run. Just a photo to remind you how far you've come in just 17 months
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Good Luck Charles!
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Thanks All,
It has been my pleasure sharring my build with all of you... What a great group of folks here on
landracing.com
Well final packing and loading for Loring...
Charles
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Great job with the build and it sounds GREAT!! See you this weekend in Loring.
Dave
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Chassis Dyno was great. Little "E" motor revved to the moon,,, we just did a few easy pulls through each gear.
..........Charles
Charles,
That sound great. Can you share you dyno results with us?
-
??
terry
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Charles, I hope it went well. Did it??
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The trip to Loring was an adventure to say the least....!!!!
Me, Bradley and Brooke Everhart headed out on Wednesday around 6pm, arrived at Presque Isle on Thursday at 11pm.
Tech on Friday went great, after 3 inspectors crawled (and some drooled) all over the Stude we got OK'd to 200+
First run was the Mandatory track rookie drop one license class run, I was to keep it below 150.... oh well I ran 153 for my shakedown pass,, all was straight and smooth,, handled well even in a little angled head wind.
Second run was the parachute run,, was told to go over 160 and below 170... Ran good hit the chip just past the mile marker,, pulled chute early (166 on GPS). went thru the traps for a 162.xxx pass,,, man that chute was fun.
Because I was on the 8200 chip just past the mile,,, I decided to change rear gears,,, Bradley slid under the car and took out the 365 gears and put in the 340's... my chart said that should get me 178...
Made a pass (with a driver error bucking coughing take off) I hate that clutch... charged hard hit all my shift point exactly and went thru the traps at 175.25o and man did the chute work great again,,, it was fun ONCE I GOT MY BREATH BACK... went thru the traps at 8150 rpms,,, so if I had have had a better start that could have been a 178 or so pass..
All in all I was very pleased and I got my "B" License too.
the only next taller gear I had was to tall for a standing start.. so we called it a day and loaded for home about 3pm.
Hope to have some pics soon.
Charles
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good on you charles willie
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That's fantastic Charles Darlin'!! All that hard work (and shingles) paid off!! So, are you and Mrs. Charles Darlin' coming to the salt? Did the car live up to her "unofficial" name? Of course, it probably won't matter what you name her now, Glen and I will probably always call her the "Satin Lady" !! :-D Cheeky, huh!!
Anyway, congratulations on a successful shakedown!!
Lynda
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Charles --
The best way to set up those hydraulic throw-out bearings is to set them up on a shelf in the garage and install mechanical linkage. With the proper ratio, it's more durable, reliable and easier to fix in the field.
Stan
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Charles ... it would be tough to top that meet for you ... 175 mph ... wow and you left something on the table
Joe
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Great news Charles, congratulations! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Sounds like it's time to build a push bumper for the truck
Pete
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Charles and I talked and I was going to build a plate for my Silverado to push him off but I dropped the ball ... will be ready for next Maxton race. I promise
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Charles, Congrats on reaching the top of the sand dune............ Bob :cheers:
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Charles, I think everyone following this build were riding with on that first run. I know how you must have felt after all of the hard work and endless hours spent. The chute run must have got your attention as well, They do there job. Congrats and thankls for sharing the build with all of us. The salt is next.
:-D :cheers:
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:cheers: Charles! The Salt is next! Go Man Go! Crow.
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I must humbly say (and I am not a humble guy) all of you here on LR.com have been so helpful and supportive. your interest and friendship helped make the long days, hard work and tons of cash all worth it,,
I forgot to turn hook up the in car camera in all the excitement,,, sorry you all could not "ride along" with me.... but ask anyone,, the Stude has an "attitude" she sounded strong,, I just hate that clutch. !!
A 2 x 12 push board with the center 15" above the ground is all I need,,,
Talk soon,
Charles
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Charles, PM sent.
Pete
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Charles-the car sounded badass when you left the line, and she pulled strong and clean through each gear.
That all on top of being a beautiful and well executed car(I'm very jealous).
I can't wait to see that car run with a big motor, that chassis is just beggin for more power.
Mike Reichen
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PUT one on your truck---anyone will be able to push you off
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PJ gave me a few good ideas last night... I am going to use the tow hook mounting area and make a twin receiver removable push plate.
I have 6 weeks to do a 4 hour job... heck I may just be ok with that deadline LOL
Charles
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http://www.jcwhitney.com/truck/front-mount-receiver-hitch-and-accessories/c2342j2s18.jcwx
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CJ ... this JC Whitney looks too easy ... I never make anything I can buy ... Joe
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I am checking to see if they have a direct bolt on for a 2009 Silverado 3500 4x4
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Finishline Video this is Saturday's run at 162.xxx pulling chute.
I am looking to see if someone has a finishline video of my 175 run on Sunday ??
Click the link then turn your volume and the video clip volume up to full volume,,, then hit play...
http://rides.webshots.com/video/3065140600064449971xxEaRG
Charles
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Much thanks ... jdincau ... I am ordering a front mount for my Silverado ... this is too easy ... Joe
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They do not have the front hitch for an 2009 Silverado HD3500
I will search other locations.
CV
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Way back in my teen years my cousin and I had fun rebuilding our '47 Pontiac 2-door "fastback" - with the straight eight engine. Ah, little did we know. . . But that's not why I'm writing. Back then we bought lots of parts and pieces from J c Whitney, also known as Warshawsky. Both companies sent out catalogs, and when we finally got into downtown Chicago to visit - we discovered that they were one in the same -- with doors opening on one side of the building as J C Whitney, and doors on the other side as Warshawsky.
Their quality was about as funky as the idea of two names on opposite sides of the building -- pretty lame. I haven't bought from them in more than 45 years, and just their longevity might mean that they've cleaned up their products. But as kids from lower Michigan, traveling into Chicago to buy cheap parts was grand fun.
And the Pontiac did run again. It was the first engine I tore down and put back together -- no manual, no shop help, heck, no torque wrench. It sure was forgiving. . .
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Jon, they still have lots of el cheapo lame parts, but they also direct ship and sometimes stock name brand stuff.
The hitches in question are Curt and Hidden Hitch,, both very good top shelf stuff.
Drive safe ,
Charles
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You folks oughta live way up north. Many trucks up here have mounts for snowplows - and therefore a good base on which a push bar can be added. No big deal that way.
Of course, not too many racers live up here. . .
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Slim ... bet you wish you had the straight eight now .... Joe
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Well - I do remember that it was so smooth and quiet running that about all you could hear when the engine was running -- was the water moving through the heater core. It really was nice - for the passenger car. I did lots of my early driving in that vehicle. Ah, tube radio, three speed on the column, under-the-rear-seat heater -- what else could I have wanted?
Well, to have the motor today so I could hold someone's race budget hostage, that's what I'd do with it.
-
I have 6 weeks to do a 4 hour job... heck I may just be ok with that deadline LOL
Charles
Whoa - Charles - I thought you were going to Speedweek. You're heading out for WOS?
I'll actually be able to see the "Suedebaker"?
Looking forward to meeting you!
Chris
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How bad was the Stude damaged at Loring?
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How bad was the Stude damaged at Loring?
Damage? If you are referring to post #840, he's not talking about repairing the car, but building/fabricating a removable push bar for the front of his truck.
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I think that the note refers to the damage to grill from the return road incident. Just looks like a 2" hole through the fiberglas grill cover. Charles probably has it fixed by now
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Maybe the "damage" idea started when Charles posted that he had run xxx mph and left some on the track (meaning speed, not meaning parts).
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looks like all he really left was some fiberglass on the return road ... Understand SSS ... he had more in the engine ... the bad push offs hurt him in a mile and a half ... I was supposed to push him off but I was distracted and didnt get the push plate done on my truck ...
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55,
And now you're going to have to live with the harassment for then next year!! :evil: Forget? We don't forget! We might move on to a new screwup by somebody else, but we never forget!!! :-D Glad you have a sense of humor. :cheers:
Lynda
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Charles went and kicked @zz for sure.
terry
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Lynda - I have the front hitch ordered and have confirmed shipping. I will make the push plate Saturday ... I will not let CK down again.
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There was some front grille damage from the return road crash. My recovery truck driver was towing me back at the agreed upon 20mph. Another truck was coming down the return road honking and waving and spooked my guy, he thought he made a wrong turn and he slammed on the brakes. I only had a 20ft toe strap, needles to say the Stude ran into the 2" trailer ball and it went through the passenger side front grille. After I picked mysell out from under the dash of the car, I got out and surveyed the damage. Well, thank goodness it did not hit my hood with all the paint work... I taped up the hole with black duct tape, re striped it with red duct tape and all was fine,,, both my driver and the other truck felt bad,,, it was just a racing incident and the fiberglass can be fixed.
The next 2 runs made the wreck seem like a minor deal....
Charles
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So now the truth comes out on the color choice's. Easily repaired with black and red duct tape :-D :cheers:
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So now the truth comes out on the color choice's. Easily repaired with black and red duct tape :-D :cheers:
If you look close both my race cars can be touched up with a black sharpie marker and a red one for the trim.
I think all of this through before we start the build. My tool box has black and red duct tape and sharpie markers.
CV
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I thought you were going to have tow bar mounts on the front of the car?? Much safer that way, everybody car ride in the tow truck in comfort.
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GH, I do have the tow bar mounts on the front of the Stude, I did not have time to make the actual tow bar and quick connections for it.
That is on the list to get done before Maxton.
Charles
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FINISHLINE CHUTE SEQUENCE
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/StudeChute1.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/StudeChute2.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/StudeChute3.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/StudeChute4.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/StudeChute5.jpg)
Charles
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That looks perfect ... you said it worked well ... Front reciever is on the truck ... I will make a plate later today ... Your push roller is 15-1/2 from the ground I believe ... Joe
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Yes Joe, 15.5 off the ground,,, so if you use a 2x8 we have 3 inch above and below for ground imperfections... bumps.. etc...
Charles
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2 x 8 ... wood? I dont think so ... this is high speed racing stuff ... may polished aluminum or engine turned ...
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Joe, there is a material they use to line the inside of over the road trailers that is like a hard plastic. It prevents polking holes in the sides from pallets etc. If there is a tractor-trailer shop in your area they should have some. Ours was a piece 18" x 24" inches over a piece of 3/4 plywood used it for 5 years until we sold the car and the new owner wanted it as well.I can't remember the name of the material. But it is tough stuff.
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Up here we call it puck board and it's used to line the boards on hockey rinks. It's tough and has some flexibility. If it'll handle the abuse from hockey it'll handle anything. I think it's about 1/4" thick. I'll go out to the shop later and check for sure.
Pete
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The offraod crowd uses it also for skidplates and bellypans, can be had at any plastics supply house. Is Tap Plastics nation wide?
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Some research reveals that the product you are referring to is High-density polyethylene HDPE ... McMaster Carr has it ... 1/4" x 2' x 2' is about 20 bucks ... Gentlemen, I thank you.
Joe
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we used two pices of 2"x6" channel
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For those of you who have been asking about my team T Shirts....I posted the info on the LSR items for sale area.
I will always have some for sale at Maxton, but I never seem to have time to set them out, or enough help to man the table...
Charles
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Hey Charles,
Great runs at Loring! Congrats on your trip and minimal trouble car shakedown.
How long is your chute lead?
Geo
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Charles, I used to sell T-shirts while drag racing and found it to be more trouble than it was worth.
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Charles, I used to sell T-shirts while drag racing and found it to be more trouble than it was worth.
GH, I agree but I have had lots of folks ask about T shirts,,, not sure if they just like the paint jobs or want to support the team. Either way, I had extra's made to sell for those who want some.
CV
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Cosmetic repairs done to front grille, about ready to paint and touch up scallops.
Working on bent trunk hinge, then may finalize step pan design before setting appointment with Tunnel.
Sold both the big gooseneck and the v nose trailer, waiting on the new trailer to arrive, it is supposed to be here the week of September 13th.. I hope it does as that weekend before Maxton and I will need that time to finish rigging and packing the trailer.
Next trip Maxton, September 24,25,26
Charles
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Charles Darlin' you were definitely missed on the salt and at Salt Talks this year....hope you can make it next year, I still want my picture taken next to your "Satin Lady" !! :-D Yeah, I know, that isn't her official name, but for me and Glen (I think), she will always be the "Satin Lady"!! :roll:
Good luck with the rest of your racing season!!
Stay Safe. Go FAST!!
Lynda
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Thanks Linda,
Yes I was upset I could noy get me or the car out to speed week this year. The thrash to get the car done took a toll on me, my vacation days and my race budget. Oh well .. at least I made a good showing in Maine, went fast enough to get my "B" license and all in all the "Satin Lady" preformed great.
If all 2011 plans hold together, we "should" have a convoy from NC to Speed Week next year.
And YES, I will make sure you get you picture taken with the car (even in the drivers seat if you wish).
Now we are finalizing a few loose ends to get the car ready for Maxton in 3 weeks.
To All -- Have a safe and happy Labor Day Weekend.
Charles
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The Convoy will be FUN . I love a road trip.
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Pick me up in Salt Lake City ...
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Seriously, all of us "out East" should do the Convoy road trip thing for SW 2011,
Like Eric (RacerX) Said Road Trips are fun !!!
See all my ECTA friends next Friday for tech....
Still some last minute items that need my attention on the car and then have to load the trailer (I pick it up tomorrow at Noon) I then have to install the winch plate, the winch, some Pit Pal products, design some type of cargo holder so items over the goose neck don't slide off.
Have to go to Tag office and add more weight to the tag on my Duelly so DMV don't stick it to me if I get weighed.
I think I also have to put "Private Not for Hire" on the trailer, truck or both.. I am not sure.
Charles
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Painting the push plate today ... I was thinking flat black with red scallops .... or maybe silver and red .....
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Can't us flat black :-o ....has to be satin black with red scallops when you push the "Satin Lady"!!! :roll:
Gotta stick with tradition!!
Lynda
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/IMG_0399.jpg)
15-1/2 inches is high center of the plate .... Charles, your chariot awaits.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd166/55chevr/IMG_0400.jpg)
I decided on chassis Hammerite silver ... I just happen to have some in the shop (2 gallons)
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Joe,
That push plate looks great. See you Friday... What hotel are you at this trip ?
Charles
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Chevvy...Thanks for all of your posts and a push for Charles
Charles...reward all of us with a Balls to the Wall run.
FREUD, relaxing in Palm Springs.
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Looks like we are in for a fast run from Charles :cheers: See you on Friday Charles :-D
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I am going to try the Comfort Inn ... If they will have me ... Have to get my brothers credit card to book as he always lets me do that with my card and then forgets to pay his half ... I am planning on doing the same to him this time ... "do unto others before they do unto you" ...
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Joe, I will see you Friday.
Make sure to join me and Randy for Dinner Friday night.
Charles
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Good luck you guys and be safe.
Mike Reichen
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Good luck you guys and be safe.
Mike Reichen
Ditto from us. Wish we could be there.
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So, Charles, how did it go at the ECTA Monster Mile? Have fun and go fast, I hope.
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So, Charles, how did it go at the ECTA Monster Mile? Have fun and go fast, I hope.
GH, Maxton was fun,,, Friday was HOT around 93 and humid. Got the car unloaded and tech'd. All was fine (I had no crew, but the LSR spirit a couple of bike guys helped me out. Joe and Tom Daly and Eric "Racer X") Without them I would have never got unloaded and tech'd. Thanks Guys.
Saturday (race Day 1) was HOTTER and more Humidity. 97 or more degrees , felt like 105. Lines moved fast, made my first "shakedown pass" at 158.6xxx mph. This record run bumped the previous record by 18mph+ (not bad for a "soft shakedown pass").
After lunch, I was ready to make a full throttle pass, got a great push start from Joe Daly and hit my shift changes perfect, had a good line over the bumps, after the 5/8 mile bump I glanced at the GPS, it was 166 and car was accelerating hard, I pressed the gas pedal down harder and POP, car nosed down wagged it's tail, I pulled the chute and mover off to the right of the racing groove, and took short shutdown to clear the track.
I had No idea what happend until I was getting out of the car and saw the gas pedal limp against the firewall. Broke the 1/4 28 threaded rod ferrel that attaches cable to carb,
Man, that had to be a 180 or so run in the making,, all spoiled by a $4.99 part.
All in all it was a good debut for my Stude at Maxton, had great fun (other than the heat)
I hope it is dry and cooler in October,,, Hope for a 175 to 185 run with that Lil "E" motor.
Oh by the way... On Saturday I had Help from John Shell (who is almost done with his Studebaker build) and Hooley Huffman was helping me as well,, it was great to meet him and have him hang around,, rumor has it he and his Stude will be racing at Maxton with us in April.. also Terry and Lawson from Blackbird SC racing helped me with the initial throttle repair and loading up too.
Thanks to all those who pitched in to help me, I could not have done it alone.
See you all in October..
Charles
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Here is a Pic of my Stude at Maxton in September.
Thanks to DW for the good photo.
(http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac81/venablerodsandracing/33546_162878940391225_100000073599760_551610_7504848_n.jpg)
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:cheers: Now,,,,that is beautiful!!!! Crow.
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Hello Charles. I hope you don't mind my posting this. I was sitting next to you in the staging lanes when you fired her up and I couldn't resist taking this vid. Sounds as good as it looks!
(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii312/BudJ63/th_Sept2010015.jpg) (http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii312/BudJ63/?action=view¤t=Sept2010015.mp4)
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Bud, No problem,,, Thanks.
You should hear that Lil "E" motor from the drivers seat at 8200 rpms just as I shift..
See you at the end of the month ?
Charles
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Maybe you should call it the Lil b"E"ast motor.
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Maybe you should call it the Lil b"E"ast motor.
Tsalt, I like it... thanks.... I know everyone thinks I am crazy powering a heavy full bodied car with a little 255 cu in N/A motor on gas,,,, but it sure is fun.....
and she runs respectable for her small cu. in.
The Lil b"E"ast ... I like it... :cheers:
Charles
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Loading up today to depart in the morning for Maxton's last event of the 2010 season.
Took a few short videos to see if the Go Pro Hero was still working after I dropped it.
DOUBLE CLICK the Picture to Launch Video
Walking from Hot Rod Shop to Race Shop
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/th_PICT0001.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=PICT0001.mp4)
Panning around the Shop (pardon the mess)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/th_PICT0002.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=PICT0002.mp4)
View from inside the Studebaker (new camera mount)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/th_PICT0003.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=PICT0003.mp4)
See you all this weekend at Maxton,
Charles
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Charles you are SICK I could show you a messy shop :-D
-
I thought you were going to start dancing the macarena on the 3rd video :-P
Good luck this weekend :cheers:
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TSalt, I am not a dancer,,, just testing the camera's view. Looks like it is still working..
All through tech and ready for the 8:30am drivers meeting,,, temps are cooler than we thought.. Hope we can make some power.
I decided to run up in motor class... So in the morning I am running D/CGALT... then if all goes well may try C/CGALT in the afternoon is no wind. The E motor may not be able to get a C record if there is much head wind.
Charles
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CHARLES, take a lesson from Stan Back.
He likes to set records into a head wind.
You are capable, if'n he is.
HAMMER DOWN. You have all winter to rebuild.
Tell Todd my cell is still working.
FREUD
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Charles,
I just reviewed your build thread, for the ???? time (I can't remember how many times I've looked at it). What I was looking for were pictures of the chassis build, I thought you had posted some, but I suppose it could have been someone else' thread. I also scanned your Photobucket page. Do you have any to share? I also have some other questions, but I'll contact you offline with them in a few days.
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Giff,
The Chassis build pics should be both on my build diary here and photobucket. You just have to go back a bit further.
Talk soon,
Charles
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Giff, go back to page 5 of this build thread and you can see the chassis build for 10 pages or more.
Charles
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Charles,
I saw all of those pictures. It must have been somebody else' build thread, as I remember seeing the process from receiving a bare set of rails, building a temporary chassis jig, and the welding of the complete chassis.
-
Giff, I did not buy chassis rails. Had FatMan make front stub and we built the entire chassis in house from scratch.
my photobucket may have a few more pictures, you may be thinking of John from Marylands Stude build ?? He had some good pictures as well.
Charles
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Giff.
Hello.
If you are building a Studebaker and have build questions, feel free to ask. Like Charles, my car has gone through a few lesson-learned hoops.
R.
John.
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Gifford, why didn't you just buy the Stude #787?
-
Gifford, why didn't you just buy the Stude #787?
Gary,
While you offer a fine car at a darn good price, I still have a vision of building my own. Maybe a Stude, maybe not, that's what I'm still researching.
-
Charles.
Hello.
If you do not mind me asking, what size/diameter front tires are you using on your Studebaker?
R.
John.
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Charles, I was just wondering, are you going to Speedweek? John, I don't know what size tire Charles is using but I used 25" front tires.
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Garry.
TNXs for responding. As a note, the many pictures you posted on your car has been really helpful.
R.
John.
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Charles, I just got my issue of Hot Rod in the mail. A nice shot of your car is in the magazine. Do not buy up all the copies in the town where you live. Go a few miles away and buy them there. That way the local guys will find it. Congratulations, it is a good looking car.
John
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Charles.
Very nice spread of your car this month in Hot Rod Magazine. Looking great!
R.
John.
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Charles.
Very nice spread of your car this month in Hot Rod Magazine. Looking great!
R.
John.
John, Thanks,, lots of cars got in Hot Rod this month,,, the magazine did a nice set of pics and a good article,, I am thankful my car made the Centerfold !!!
Oh my front tires are 23" tall
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GH , I will not make speedweek with the Studebaker... I blew the E motor at Maxton in April, still working on it,, using a C motor now (temporary) Have Maxton again in 2 weeks, then 2 weeks later Loring Maine,,, do not have the time, crew or money for Speed Week,,, working on September for World of Speed... or a sponsor for Speed Week 2012..
The Stude is so fun to Drive,, Can't wait to see what it does on the salt...
Charles
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ONE YEAR LATER,
Oh wow it has been a full year since my Studebaker was finished. The good news is the Stude has set 6 class records at Loring,, 2 in 2010 and 4 so far in 2012... it has also set 4 records in Maxton during 2010/2011. The bad news is the E motor hurt itself in April of this year, so I have been running a backup low HP C motor,, however the lil "C" has went 177mph at Maxton and 188 at Loring,,, the E blowing up has ruint my plans for WOS this year at Bonneville.
I will be at Bonneville in 2012 with a NEW and "Improved" E motor...
Here is a Pic from Maxton and a Video from Loring,,
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/MAXS7181.jpg)
click pic to launch video
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/th_Loring2011record187.jpg) (http://s261.photobucket.com/albums/ii43/cajunkid5690/?action=view¤t=Loring2011record187.mp4)
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Your cars are beautiful, nice to know you already have four records in 2012. :-D :-D. Daaamn fingers. :cheers:
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Love that Stude Charles. Be looking for you at Maxton in a couple of weeks.
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Charles - are you still with us?
What's up with the Suede-a-baker?
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Does anyone know if Charles is OK? He has not logged in since April 27, 2013, 11:02:51 AM. His website has not been updated lately also.
Tom G.
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He's still posting on Facebook. Phil
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I talked to Charles last month he said work was taking up a lot of time.
BR
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Phil and Bill,
Thanks for the update. Glad he is doing well.
Tom G.
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Work and family keep Charles busy. He posts some stuff on facebook. Tis the season for fam and friends.
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Work and family keep Charles busy. He posts some stuff on facebook. Tis the season for fam and friends.
Really?. Hi friend. :-D
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Well, if Chuck doesn't want to share the continuation of the build here, maybe we could just start making stuff up -
"We're switching classes this year - been in development on a turbo RX-7 motor with a powerglide and a 924 transaxle for gear splits . . . new paint scheme will be Radical Raspberry with inverted Occupational Safety Yellow Nike-style swishes and a nice pearl clearcoat - oh, and we flipped the hood scoop . . ."
Come on Charles - don't let us ruin your fine reputation! :wink: