Landracing Forum
East Coast Timing Association => ECTA General Chat => Topic started by: MiltonP on February 14, 2009, 10:55:21 AM
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OK, I decided to start slow and see how I like it on the bikes versus the car so I will be running a new Ninja 500R in the 500cc/4 stroke classes. I am not sure I will be ready to run it by April but should have it down there. Need to get some break-in miles racked up. Got a few questions. Thanks in advance guys.
1 - Do you need to display the engine displacement or just the frame/engine class along with your number?
2 - I have exactly 1/2" of handlebar showing between the clutch bracket and el-cheapo factory 'clip-on' covers which I have not tried to remove yet. No manuals in stock. :-( Does anyone have a bar mount kill tether that fits that space? Can't be very thick towards the backside either. Other mounting options? I believe I can mount 37mm clip-ons on this bike but am not sure all the current controls transferring over and current bar position is comfortable for now.
3 - Safety wiring? I have read the rule book back and forth and am either going blind or missing pages! I did see the axles have to be cotter pinned or wired. The rear has a nice obvious cotter pin. The front axle on the Ninja has sunken allen type bolt heads showing on each side so I don't have a clue what I will need to do there. Assuming oil drain plug, filter and fill cap must all be wired but didn't spot that in the book. What else is required versus smart to do. Will look next for a bike tech inspection form as maybe that will answer my questions.
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Before you start ... the new rule book will be upon us momentarily ... I suggest that you await that before doing anything. What you will have to do to race is not overly technical. The most difficult part is the kill switch. You must display your number and class/ displacement as out lined in the rule book. If you have missed anything it can be corrected at tech in. The most sensitive issue is your personal equipment (helmet and leathers)..
Joe
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The pingel kill switch is fairly narrow ... ... Joe
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Been looking at the MPS Darag Race Kill Switch. Looks like there my clutch bracket curves a little outward which could force me to get the back loop machined a bit for it which would very likelybe yje case for the Pingel. An alternative id the Maier Universal switch which is mounted to a plate and would need a bracket or existing bolt located in a good spot.
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/hc01.asp
Also fun on my list is figuring out which Shindy Daytona stabilizer parts fit. I have pics of an oval Shindy on an older ex500 road racer so I believe it should work. Of course their fork brackets are 36mm and 38mm and I think my forks may be 37mm. Guessing 38mm and some material to snug it up will work. Length of stabilizer and travel required will probably have to be determined once I can take the tank off. Friggin cold weather and crappy old garage. :x
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Ordered the MPS switch. Can always use it on the next bike or sell it if it doesn't fit! :cheers: Now I can focus on leathers and those stabilizer parts.
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You could fit the Scotts stabilizer -- the one that goes on the top of the bars, in the center. They're great units and don't have the hassle of finding two mounting points. They do require some work to mount, I'll grant you -- but still, they'll work well. As for the kill switch -- attach the switch to a little bracket that you can mount to something - anything - up front. However -- as an inspector I know I like to see kill switches where the switch is aimed horizontally backwards -- that is, if the rider falls off the bike he'll be pulling in the direction the switch is pointed, so the likelihood of the switch malfunctioning is minimized. I like the Pingel switches because they're easy to actuate -- but I've got the MPS on the nitrous bike -- and that one works, too.
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the scotts stablizer is high end ... really nice unit ... Joe
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I checked the Scotts website and they, like Ohlins, unfortunately don't list the EX500. I am guessing that is due its reputation as a beginners sportbike versus a trackbike. Looks like the Shindy is my only choice for now but at least I should end up with something that can be adapted to vintage bikes down the road. I suppose if it works well enough I might consider using it on a faster bike as well. The EX500 steering seems has a lot of travel so it will be interesting to see how this plays out.
It seems to me that placing the MPS type switch so that a direct pull would be about 45-55 degrees up, versus pointing direct to the rear,would give it the best chance of handling both'exits' to the rear and over the top. I seem to remember watching a tech session where the inspector commented on how he didn't think the tether would work if the rider somehow went over the top. Need to see how it works in hand, I reckun.
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Good point about going over the top. I've got to admit that I don't think about that all that much, maybe 'cause in lsr I don't expect that many incidents to happen in that direction. But - you've made a good point and I think I'll be modifying my stance.
If your kill switch is one where the tether itself loops through a wire that caries the current from one pin to the other (of the plug) -- any hard tug on the tether should be enough to break that wire loose, no matter which direction it comes from. In other words -- make sure the tether itself is strong enough to pull that wire or that plug or that hairpin -- loose from the base of the switch.
Thanks very much for the comment.
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I use a very simple pingle kill switch that is easily activated from just about any direction. This type is used on a lot of dirt bikes (where I first found it) and is cheap and simple enough to keep an extra on hand if needed (about $20 each) Comes in normally open contacts or closed, whichever is needed. The top rubber cover pops off when pulled which lets the spring loaded button rise up.
(http://www.pingelonline.com/product_photos/ksb_115_002.jpg)
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That looks similar to the Maier available from DennisKirk, which is my backup plan, except the Maier has a mounting plate vs clamp mount.
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I used that type on my last bike...
(http://www.frsengineering.com/mx13.jpg)
I got that one at Cycle Gear, but they only had them in normally open. I could use it with my Dyna 2000, but I need a normally closed with the bike I'm building now.
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I use the kill switch with the red top on my bike. I have extra switches if it fails .It is a common radio shack switch inside . When I gave it a test yank, the cord came off. The clamp did not hold. I switched it for a piece of Phone cord that has metal inside and wire wrapped a better clamp.
The 500 ninja has a 37mm fork .Woodcraft make clip on bars also .
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Friggin cold weather and crappy old garage. :x
Milton, I am concerned :| are you sure you are familiar enough with bikes to race one.... The only reason I ask is because if the garage is cold, most of us bikers move into the dining room or the kiitchen... :roll: :cheers:
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Hey Rchop, denniskirk.com has the closed version of that Maier switch at around $33. Didn't search to see if it is cheaper elsewhere.
:-o Stainless, you been peeking at my old threads? I mentioned that big unused dining room a while back! I need to fashion a ramp to circumvent the 2 steps up to my front porch if I am going to use it though. Don't have enuf work to do on the EX500 just yet to worry about that as I want to get in baseline runs near stock. Besides I need to put a wide door on the back of the garage since I boarded it up some years back when kids broke in and stole my 2 day old bike!
It also wasn't too cold to stop me from taking apart the left side switch gear to see if I could easily mount the narrow slip-on Pingel switch. Not sure what it takes to remove the hand grip but the rest comes off easy enough. I never liked slip-on devices that tighten with those teeny allen nuts anyways. Note to self - Pay more attention to choke cable routing next time or wait for the manual to arrive! :roll:
I also need to acquire a lightweight trailer. I rented a nice Rocket Trailer but it wasn't $2K nice and it seems a small utility trailer could be converted to be similar and more useful. Eventually I might get a enclosed trailer that stays with the rv in Lumberton and the lightweight would just be used for fuel efficient transfers up to Winchester.
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There are a lot of trailer deals in NC and Ga ... Joe
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If you are not going too far or hauling too much Harbor Freight has a fold up trailer, might be a good interim solution
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90154&Submit=Go
I know someone that used one to haul a bike 700 miles to Bonneville for several years.... not me, I've never lived that close...
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I picked up a 4x6 light utility trailer from tractor supply. Modifying it a bit with a detachable condor chock extending about a foot up the tongue. I plan to use a seperate board with mount for the chock on the ground. May pull off the mesh floor and mount a channel for the bike with some flooring and small boxes as needed.
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I haul the bike 2500 miles to Bonneville ... I was financially embarrassed for 2 months after this year from the fuel cost ... looks a lot better this year coming costwise ... Joe
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I use a very simple pingle kill switch that is easily activated from just about any direction. This type is used on a lot of dirt bikes (where I first found it) and is cheap and simple enough to keep an extra on hand if needed (about $20 each) Comes in normally open contacts or closed, whichever is needed. The top rubber cover pops off when pulled which lets the spring loaded button rise up.
(http://www.pingelonline.com/product_photos/ksb_115_002.jpg)
some of the internals on the pictured switch are sensitive to any movement by the red cap.
spend the money on a good aluminum pingel switch.
and if the cheapo fails: pingel will tell you to contact its' distributor. emgo was very obliging
in taking it back. thanks jp ( no longer w/ emgo).see jp running or volunteering at bub.
franey
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when i was wrenching for a living, when a dead bike came in with one of those Chinese switches, the usually fix was replacing that switch... if you are using one Randy switch the switch! I use the MPS of FBG switches
Kent
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For a trailer you might look for a used jet ski or small boat trailer. I found one on Craigslist for $200, put another $400 into mterials along with some sweet equity and have a trailer that I can use a ramp or tilt to load. It also has flip up floor boards so that I can work on the bike.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq78/todlcole/Trailerandbike.jpg)
Floor boards out of 2 x 12's and the front air deflector from 1/2" plywood with storage place.
(http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq78/todlcole/IMG00044.jpg)
Pulled into tech and had a place in the shade to work.
If you find a single jet ski trailer with the long tongue you might even be able to haul it behind that Miata.
Cole
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You've been reading my mind. I have been debating pulling up the mesh and installing a rail and keeping the floor open except for a small box and jug carrier. Could make life nice for working on the bike. Maybe leave a gap in the rail where a jack could be used... If I put a canopy over it that will free up the area under the awing of the camper at Maxton. Hoping to tow behind the Miata to Maxton which seems doable since most of my stuff is there in the camper. Not sure I could tow/carry all that is needed to the flats over the rockies with the Miata but you never know.
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some of the internals on the pictured switch are sensitive to any movement by the red cap.
spend the money on a good aluminum pingel switch.
and if the cheapo fails: pingel will tell you to contact its' distributor. emgo was very obliging
in taking it back. thanks jp ( no longer w/ emgo).see jp running or volunteering at bub.
franey
when i was wrenching for a living, when a dead bike came in with one of those Chinese switches, the usually fix was replacing that switch... if you are using one Randy switch the switch! I use the MPS of FBG switches
Kent
Money wasn't a real issue with the choice of the switch. I decided on that type because it was easily activated from pull on the the front, back and sides. I used it for two years with no problems. Do the MPS or FBG switches activate easily from other directions, or are they directional?
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the pingel will (de-)activate from 360 degrees but the plunger needs to be pretty much in a vertical plane to release pin cleanly. pix are on web w/ diff. styles.
franey
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the pingel will (de-)activate from 360 degrees but the plunger needs to be pretty much in a vertical plane to release pin cleanly. pix are on web w/ diff. styles.
franey
Thanks for the info franey, I was thinking about it and realized running the normally open switch would cause a lot less problems than running a normally closed since the only time the contact is made is when the switch is activated. Since I'm going to a NC switch, I should probably go to a better made switch as recommended above.
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I LSR both cars and bikes. I started with cars, then added the bikes and I can tell you that on the bikes it's what you wear that you have to get right. I'd wait until the rulebook comes, then concentrate first on the leathers/helmet and then the safety stuff for the bike.
Speaking of trailers, look for a good used one. Several years ago I found one for my Busa that a fellow had outgrown. He was racing 2 bikes (Busa and 1K) and wanted to race 3. Cost me $1200. I've put about 20K miles on it since.
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Working both sides of the fence. Picked up a Revit Silica 1 piece suit that is illegal for SCTA, due to perfs and stretch panels, but such is life. It fit very well and seems well built. Was nice that the Ducati shop stocks some to try them on as well.
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I used pieces of a kill switch from fastbygast. I just stuck it into an open spot on the bike.
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Milton, your new suit is legal for the BUB Trials...
However, you will need another one for SCTA/BNI
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I can live without running a bike at a SCTA event for now. Who knows, if I really like running a bike at Maxton, and no one buys my Miata, maybe I will move the Miata to the Salt Lake area and just run 4 wheels out there! I am guessing at some point I will want to see what the salt feels like under 2 wheels though so a BUB visit is probably in my future. Whose leather rules do the folks running World of Speed follow?
On the rest of the safety front, I fitted the MPS switch but haven't checked which wire to chop yet. I need to open the switch up. Tried on some Sidi Vertigo boots but want to take a look at a few others, such as Alpinestars before taking the plunge. Also tried a few gloves on but nothing 'just right' yet.
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WOS follows SCTA rules and the hump is only legal in PS class. I'm not sure on the hump in ama cuz I don't run that class.