Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: uglydog56 on July 25, 2008, 09:49:31 PM
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I have an A-10 drop tank I am using for my lakester body. It has a seam on the bottom with about a hundred phillips head screws that are the swastika-looking jobs (tighten only). I need to break this seam so I can take the center piece out and shorten it. How do I get these stupid screws out? So far that have successfully destroyed several bits for my impact (the one you hit with a hammer) and the impact powered by air, and about 5 drill bits. I think it is laughing at me. Anyone have any experience with these? You cant get to the nut inserts on the other side.
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If they are what I'm thinking of, they look kind of like a Phillips head but not quite. These are quite common on aerospace hardware; you can find bits that fit them on eBay. I forget their exact name but maybe someone else does.
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ugllydog56: I don't know the shape of the slot, however, could a sadistic engineer have used a left hand thread. If so, i am sure you can hear faint laughter.
Good luck, Kip305
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The aircraft ind. has a special bit to remove the tri-type screws. The bit has a serated side to back them out. I believe Apex makes them.Hope this helps.
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Thanks I'll start looking for the bit then.
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Not try-wings I hope? If so I have a few bits.
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If it's a cross head, like a Phillips, but each "blade" is offset to the center, we called them Torq Set screws. What I would do if you cannot find the right driver, is to get a left hand drill bit and drill them out.
But McMaster Carr is your buddy. www.mcmaster.com type in: 36735A49 and take a peak. PG 2773
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Looking at it from the weldor's point of view, I'd just put a little tig build up on each head then use the trusty vise-grips. :-D This is a perfect application because you should let the screw cool before you try to unscrew it and by the time you put all the welds on the first ones would be cool. Usually impatience wins and you have to weld more than once.
Pete
SORRY, DUMB IDEA ------ FUEL TANK!!!!!!!
PJ
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Are you planning to use the seam on the car? if not, plasma cutter will remove the seam in about 5 minutes and the tank will be open.
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Are you planning to use the seam on the car? if not, plasma cutter will remove the seam in about 5 minutes and the tank will be open.
Glad you brought that up. I need to cut the nose out of ................
(http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/bvillecar/tanks-3.jpg)
............ these tanks soon. As far as I can figure they are from the 50's. I would think any fuel residue would be long gone, but I hate welding/cutting on something that in my mind might explode. Would you have any reservations about taking the plasma cutter to them?
c ya soon depending on if I get the correct answer here.....now back to the screws,
Sum
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If you are worried about combustion, run the exhaust of your truck into the tank and weld or cut with confidence.
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Sum:
As I get older I get less and less brave. I've used several different methods over the years but the only one I use now is to steam the tank and then do what's necessary while it's still warm. I prefer to check it with an explosimeter but if the tank's good and hot it's safe.
I've known a couple of people over the years who have cut into "old rain barrels". One was killed and one suffered a concussion and a broken shoulder. It makes me cautious.
If I were doing it I'd use a saw.
Pete
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................If I were doing it I'd use a saw.
Pete
I was going to use a saw so I'll continue with that approach. It shouldn't take long with a zawzall. I recently welded a sump in the truck gas tank and before I've cleaned and blown them out myself. This time I spent $50 and had someone else clean it and check it with their explosive meter and felt much safer when I started welding.
c ya,
Sum
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sum how much af the tanks are you going to use willie
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Sum, did they have inert tags on them... if not use your nose in the filler hole. If it smells like gas or diesel, carefully cut with the sawzall, if there is any liquid left in them, swab a little out and try to burn it. Most tanks disposed of by the military are inert before surplussed
WYA....
See ya on the salt 8-)
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I have an A-10 drop tank I am using for my lakester body. It has a seam on the bottom with about a hundred phillips head screws that are the swastika-looking jobs (tighten only). I need to break this seam so I can take the center piece out and shorten it. How do I get these stupid screws out? So far that have successfully destroyed several bits for my impact (the one you hit with a hammer) and the impact powered by air, and about 5 drill bits. I think it is laughing at me. Anyone have any experience with these? You cant get to the nut inserts on the other side.
If you ever picked up one of those 100-piece-or-more security bit sets, you’ve probably run across this bit pattern and wondered, What type of screw does this fit? Browsing the Irwin site, I found the answer: Torq-Set — also know as Tee+Cross and offset cruciform. Apparently our friends in the aviation business see these all the time.
Maby this will help.
Torq-Set screws are supposedly tamper-proof, but not if you have the right driver bit. The offset cruciform design fits precisely in screw heads with less cam-out, and it can handle higher torque than the similar looking Phillips design. The ISO standard 7994:1985 specifies the parameters of the metric series.
Irwin makes Torq-Set bits in sizes #0 through #10. Their bits run a few bucks each, but many tool manufacturers make these bits, so you can find cheaper sets if you dig.
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sum how much af the tanks are you going to use willie
I'll PM you so we don't get off topic here,
Sum
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Check out my post on the first page. I've edited it. It was a bad idea written in a moment of fatique.
Pete
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It turns out the best way to remove the stubborn little beasts is to saw off the whole seam with a gas powered chop saw, which I rented but is definitely now on my christmas list. The destructive power of one of those things is truly a sight to behold. And yes the tank was inerted. No explosions today. Thanks for all the help. I still have to buy the bit set to get a bunch of the access covers off.