Landracing Forum
Bonneville Salt Flats Discussion => SCTA Rule Questions => Topic started by: Cajun Kid on June 05, 2008, 10:24:27 PM
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I am getting confussed with the SCTA and ECTA classes.
Out here in NC I have been told my car will run in E/CGALT but what class would be the same at Bonneville SCTA and or USFRA ?
The Car
1933 Ford Victoria (2 door sedan)
3" Chop
Fiberglass Body
Hi Boy (no fenders or running boards)
Does have all equipment for street driving out here but Head Lights and Tail Lights are quick disconnect removable.
Does have dash and all guages, has both the glass firewall with a complete .090 metal firewall with 3 coats of Lizard Skin Ceramic Heat Shield applied.
Stock Grill, Stock apprearance, no ground effects etc.
Does have slight engine setback.
Dropped Axel Front. w 4 bar set up
Rear is ladder bars with coilovers and 9" ford with 31 splines and locker.
Car has steel hood top and sides, stock 4 piece with dzus fasteners instead of stock hood handles
Motor
SBC 255 CI V8
1 Carb
Runs on 110/116 Race GAS (Sunoco or ERC)
No power adders (yet !!)
I have built the car to look the part of an old school land racer, Hope I can run her out there.
Charles
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I know you want Dan, and i don't blame you. But to me it looks like you have the class nailed. How are you on roll cage and all the other saftey stuff. You know that to run with BNI you will need everything that the 200 mph cars have. All of it. All up to date with the latest cage requirements. Maybe less so for ECTA.
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Thanks, any help is much appreciated,
I have a 1 5/8 .120 DOM cage (main hoop, halo bar, knee bar, back bar, 2 rear bars, 2 front bars, basic 8 point cage with NO Diagonal door bars, here I am OK to 175mph.. I need to add the swing out door bars and full door net for out there, Cage is new, every part on car is new, will need fire system for there too. Seat is OK, looks like new 2" head restraint rule may catch me so working on retro fit and chute too!
I think I have a decent handle on the safety stuff but will triple check once there for the USFRA 130 and 150 deals. That way the folks out there can see what I have and let me know what I need for above the USFRA 150 Club stuff.
Just hoping the E/CGALT was a valid class out there???
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It's a good class. Mine is a C/CGAlt. Got good tires, driver air vent, and all that stuff? Lexan or window film is new lately. Welded wheels. It's all in the rule book. Not all in any one place.
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I will have fully 360 degree welded wheels by then. Hmm Driver Air Vent ? Not sure what that is or how to apply this? Never seen it in the rules ? Tires, wish I knew what kind to buy for the salt , For here at Maxton mile on pavement I have H and Z rated tires that all say are fine. My Windows are all std Safety glass with the film sandwiched in (or that is what It is supposed to be)
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3.E Page 30 first paragraph. " All enclosed drivers compartments" ect. Don't know what you have My car came with laminated safty glass for the windshield. All the other glass is "Tempered "and requires film. laminated glass is usually marked as such and if you can see the edge it's pretty plain. Fuel shut off. Electric? Catch straps on your ladder bars? Proper fuel tank roll over vent? All little stuff. Nothing you will have trouble with.
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Rich,
I think I am ok with most of what you mention. Gas tank has rollover and vent shut off, fuel pump is mechanical, glass is laminated (I hope, will double check)
The ladder bar straps I must have over looked ? Not sure what or how to do that? I assume in case the bolt.clevis at front breaks a device to keep the bar from falling down and digging in and possibly flipping the car, sorta like a driveshaft saftey loop? Can this be piece of angle iron below it or steel strap or bar stock ? Or must it be safety cable ? Not sure ?
I feel dumb for missing that one!!
Charles
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Charles,
Don't have an SCTA book handy, THINK it might be worded a little differently - best to check. From '08 ECTA book 3.S DRIVE LINES page 27: "All traction bars and trailing links shall have a metal sling near the front attaching point with a minimum of 1/4 in. diameter".
Have seen round stock, flat stock, cable, and chain used, anchored in various locations with various methods.
Keep your eyes open at the June meet, usually a lot of tech tips to "borrow". Another good reason to arrive Fri if you can, more time to wander the pit while cars tend to be opened up a bit more while being prepped/inspected.
Hope to see you and your son down there.
Ed
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Here's where I was asking the same question, with an "approved" solution.
http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,2574.0.html (http://www.landracing.com/forum/index.php/topic,2574.0.html)
Mike
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I'm not to sure about the "mechanical" fuel pump meeting the defination of "stock fuel system" I hope someone who knows will jump in here. For me stock would require you to be running a '34 Ford fuel system with a '34 carb. I don't go to the races to argue with tech inspectiors, if at all possable. I would install a shut off or get something from a SCTA offical that says you don't need one.
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I was told that a mechanical pump would not require a fule shut off, but now I forgot who told me that.
With an elec. fuel pump I know a cut off is required..
The thinking is when the engine stops the mech. fuel pump stops !!
I hope I am right becuase I have a mech pump and no shut off ??
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Actually the way it works is that if your electric fuel pump is wired in the same circuit with your coil you don't need a shut off. Turn off the ignition+turn off the fuel pump. But a mechanical fuel pump, Hilborn or other, needs a shut off. Not sure about a stock pump, but I would believe that unless you have a Stock fuel system, you need a shut off. With a positive stop. That last part was aimed at me. I am reading 3.I.1 pade 31. Your best off contacting somebody with some horse power in the association. I'm just guessing.
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Rich,
Using a rear (stock location) mounted gas tank, with 1/2" alum fuel line running along fram rails up to near the motor mounts, then hooking to "stock" fuel pump. How/ where / what kind of fuel shut off?
Do you mean like a valve or petcock ? (with a lever coming into the drivers compartment )
Never seen a car with stock fuel pump have a shut off.. all my drag cars and such with elec pumps all had shut off "switches" .
Either I am confussed or just brian fried on this one ? LOL
Charles
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On my cars I have a ball valve (sold by Jegs, Summit and others) between the pump and the metering block. Carburator in your case. That way if the engine runs on or something else shorts to the coil, you can kill it by turning off the fuel. Is yours a stick shift car? If so do you have the fuel line in a safty shield where it passes the clutch/flywheel area? This is in addition to the flywheel safty shield required.
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PS Any SCTA people reading this can jump in here any time. And point out to Lee that I am not getting tired out by answering questions to the best of my ability.
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Rich,
My car is an auto tranny, but yes we are putting a shield around the fuel line several inches in fron of and behind where the tranny bolts to the block. This way if I ever put a manual transmission in or even a flex plate or starter ring etc lets loose the fuel line is protected.
Working on the ladder bars straps now (trying to work up a design in my head) damn it's crowded up there .. LOL
Thanks for your help, I am sure that it's going to save me some grief in tech the first time.
Charles
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I found the fuel shut off valve at Summit Racing (check ball/lever style)
Rich, how do you shut yours off from inside the car ? Long rod goinf to valve lever or some pull cable set up ?
(like an old style choke cable running to the shut off lever?)
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On my roadster I mounted it in such a way that I could run a rod almost stright to the axle the ball turns on and the handle attaches to. One small U joint in the shaft nd an aluminum knob on the other end. For that one I turn the knob 90 degrees for off. Turn it back for on. On my Altered I have the more convenitonal Morse cable pull off, push on. Dan I know your reading this, jump in, please. On my Vega I made a small scoop and molded it into the roof just above and fowared of the driver. Maybe 3/8th tall and 1 and a half long. That blows fress air into the drivers compartment and might help if it got smoky in there. Other people have other ideas. Your going to run E/CGC? I see the record at 188.114 mph. Are they going to require a 'chute?
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Thanks Rich,
I think I can use the Morse cable with a knob just right of my Shifter Housing so it is just off my right knee..That may work.
Also thanks for the tip on the Ladder Bar retention device? Looks like to only two items I missed, or at least I hope the only 2 items... I sure hate to trailer the car and crew to Maxton and get turned away for over looking something n the rules.... Hmm with my little "E" motor I probably will not go over 125mph any way.. But better safe than sorry.. (the record was just increased to 120.?? last month,,)
I hope to better that in Sept. June will just be my tech and shakedown runs.
Charles
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Never been to Maxton. Looks like a lot of fun. I know my first trip to the salt with a race car was a life changing deal. Good luck.
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I have been going to Maxton for 2 years as a silent spectator, late last year I decided to get of the sidelines and to build a car. Of course the project is running behind schedule. I planned to make the April meet, but as luck would have it nothing fell into place, so we are still thrashing to try to be there in a few weeks for the June meet.
It is a very fun place and has great people, I like the helpfull nature and friendly attitude of all whom I have met and or talked with at the track or online. Also is is laid back and user friendly fun. Safety and Fun are the main goals for me and for the folks at the ECTA.
Thanks again for your help. Hope I go through my first tech inspection fairly smoothly.
Charles
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Rich,
You are doing just fine.
DW
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It sounds like you've never seen an inspection form. If you have been to El Mirage/Bonneville they are available. Each item to be looked at is referenced to the rule book section so you ca see what to do. I believe I have some back copies of the 2007. Send me an e-mail with your address. I have no idea what mMaxton does, Ask Kieth Turk or Joe Timmney
As for fuel pumps. A manual shut off was originally for mechanical fule injection (hilborn, enderle, etc). and still is required. If you are running a "stock style" mechanical (one in the right side of Chev V-8 block) nothing is required. This does not mean a stock pump. It can be aftemarket to flow more fuel including the inline ones. It must be actuated by the stock style actuating device: ie, cam
Some add a shut off between it and the carb but I have never required one when I inspect. Electric pumps, the same thing. Some put the puimp on the same switch as the ignition so they only need to turn off one switch. Others use 2 one for each. Still no manual device is required even tho some use them.
The key to all these actuating devices is that they are well marked so that some one coming to your car in case of an incident can know what to turn off.
Good Luck:
PS: Rich, your doing a great job......
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Jimmy Six,
I sent you a PM with my email,,,, thanks for the offer of a TECH sheet.
Charles