Landracing Forum
Tech Information => Technical Discussion => Topic started by: Jonny Hotnuts on March 10, 2008, 09:46:36 PM
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What is a good choice in tube size for the primary support structure of the new, longer nose section I’m putting on the car. The nose will be about 4' longer and be built having 4 main tubes with 45 degree triangulated bars on the sides.
Looking for a good choice in strength without being beyond overkill in weight. I would like to add weight if I need it and not have it ungodly heavy for my slow car.
Thanks~
-JH
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JH
Strength of the structure will be a large function of tube diameter, rather than massive wall thickness. Considering how small and light weight your car is and probably will continue to be, I would start thinking about 1 1/2" .083" wall, or 1 3/8" .095" wall. Of course with well designed triangulation perhaps the smaller dia with .083 wall thickness.
Don't forget to plan for where you "want" to be in a few years. Building is fun, but trust me, you don't want to have to rebuild every few years. Personally I would use the larger 1.5" tube.
The Ford car last year was 1.750 dia .120" wall, and would have been 2 inch around the driver if they had tooling for bending such massive stuff.
Have fun
Rick
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Material also matters. I'd use carbon fiber.
(http://www.carbonfibertubeshop.com/images/ltpic3small.jpg)
1.250 in. dia. is $164.95 for 60 in. Is that a problem?
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Just ordered 1.5X.95, thanks RB.
DLA:
I would consider CF but I have had a hard time welding it in the past.
:-D
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Spambot type reply, pulling up an old thread if you are a real person please feel free to reply without the advertising
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have had a hard time welding it in the past
The key is to use Lucas electrical smoke as the inert gas.
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JH,
If you want to think safety and you have 1 5/8 X .120 wall D.O.M. you can slide a piece of 1 3/8 X .120 wall into it and then slide a piece of 1 1/8 x .120 wall into that etc etc as you go out away from your cage. Cut the outside pieces at a 45 degree angle and drill some 3/8 holes in the end of the outside tube, slide the smaller tube in and weld the holes (rosette) and the 45 degree ends up. It looks cool and you then have a crumple zone to desipate the force of the crash. It weighs a little less so while spinning, the pendulum weight is less and it doesn't spin so long. Oh yeah, clean everything good before sliding the tube in. You have only .005" clearance between the tube. You will probably be able to make a lot of things with the scraps. Put grease fittings in them if you want them to turn and if your going to run on the salt. :-)
Harvey
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Panic, that is funny! :cheers:
Ultralight and hitz, check the date on the thread. He is already done with the nose and is running. :roll:
BTW, Hitz, I would like to see updates on YOUR car! Interested for a few seasons now.
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Thanks, Stainless. Peter Jack had sent a note for me to check it out, but by the time I got there -- you'd nuked the guy. Thank you very much, both of you.